Well good sir, this video just put my M1009 back in service. The “Pink” wire was the culprit , it was broken from the connector. I patched it up and she woke back up. I appreciate the content and knowledge your giving to help keep these M1009 on the road 👍 . Thank you from Lytle Texas
Thank you for sharing your knowledge! I got excited hoping that pink wire/fuel solenoid was going to solve my problems. It did not. Crank, but no start. I get white smoke, JUST changed all glow plugs (all under 1ohm), batteries are relatively new, can definitely hear the starter spinning just fine. After a while of trying to crank the batteries WILL start dying and therefore I put them on the charger the other night... One charged over night and the other charged while I was at work. Still no start. This is my very first diesel and I'm at a total loss. Any suggestions on where to look? My buddy switched it all to 12V and I still have two batteries and only one alternator hooked up. P.S. - My apologies for the lengthy comment.
That shouldn’t cause it to run rough. A good way to check is remove the belts and see if it is still running rough. With a cold engine you can let it run 3-5 minutes without any issues. A warmed up engine just try to keep it under 1-2 minutes.
I would suggest following the battery cables from the batteries. Verify there is voltage at every point. The passenger side battery should have a cable going directly to the starter. Then from the starter there should be a 12 gauge red wire going to the star shaped “Engine Buss” next to the brake booster. From there another red wire should go to the firewall plug at the back of the fuse panel.
Great video brother, mine starts cold well, with high idling, but at soon as it reaches operating temperature, i get a rough idle, unless i accelerate a little, any ideas what my problem could be? Note that i have not changed the fuel filter yet, could that be the issue?
My first thought it idle speed followed by timing with IP issues bringing up the expensive rear. Change the filter for sure. Then just drive the thing for an hour or more. Old fuel, old parts and cold weather might be ganging up on you if it was fine a while ago and now does this. Nice looking Camero in your avitar.
Tim i just bought a cucv m1010 but it fails to idle tried to service the injector pump, what could be the problem? could it be the pink wire still? Please i need ur advise?
Sorry you are having trouble with your new truck. Once started, the pink wire is working. Especially if it starts right back up again with some throttle applied. My first thought is idle speed, timing, fuel filter and air filter. I really need more information. Have you watched my video about the Technical manuals? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-k06GHlIhgZE.html I would also suggest steelsoldiers.com. There are a large number of us fools on that website discussing these trucks and their issues.
@@timsteachablemoments1786thanks alot Tim, when u start the car, it will start properly but the moment u release the throttle it won't stay idling? I have changed the engine oil, hydraulic oil, fuel filter and the cleaner and am now suspecting the wiring since it was over parked and rodents seems to have eaten some wires.unless otherwise. But so far u have given me good advise compared to other mechanics I have tried to approach. Actually since it was a military ambulance my last option was to approach the American embassy here in Uganda for help coz we don't have go mechanics for chevys in uganda
You need to look for a diesel mechanic. Think older diesel tractors. That is who will know what to look for. The more you write, the more the trouble seems to concentrate on the Injection Pump.
It really is loud enough to hear from the bumper. Before I moved the microphone it was over the grill. You should also see a spark if you look close and the light is low.
@@timsteachablemoments1786Wow! Thank you so much for responding. I’ve been trying to figure out why mine is so hard to start. I have to crank for 1 to 2 minutes for it to fire up if it’s been sitting for longer than a day. Subscribed!
@@22Platypus What fuel filter do you have? If you still have the stock Chevy/Fram you could have a leak in the base that is common on them. Thanks for subscribing.
@@timsteachablemoments1786 You are probably my right. I had issues with my injection pump a few years ago and replaced the fuel filter housing with a new, but same style rectangle one at the same time. I just ordered a new (spin on) one. Will report back soon. Thanks!
@@timsteachablemoments1786Not saying this to throw it in your face, just thought you’d like to know. I put a new fuel filter setup on and it made no difference. Started messing with the solenoid again and noticed the click had gotten even quieter. Took it out and noticed the plunger was quite stiff. Worked it back and forth and it got better, but still a bit crunchy. Then I realized I had noticed that the engine would run for about a second after I turned off the key and it all made sense. Ordered a new one and it seems to be fixed. Like I said, super appreciate you replying to me (multiple times, at that), so thought I’d report back. Thanks!
Actually the injector becomes hot near the return area what coukd be the problem? Could it be that a wire is missing actaull all the connections to the injector pump?
You are saying the injection pump is getting hot near the return line/green wire plugs in? That is actually kind of normal since the fuel is pumped at high pressure by the IP right before it exits the IP to return to the tank. That does heat it up, but not so much smoke is coming off the IP. How old is your IP?
Are you getting any smoke out the pipe while cranking? No smoke normally means no fuel. White smoke that is dirty looking normally means fuel and not enough heat. Check glow plugs.
