Hi; I used to rebuild engines, and one of the things I did to the block deck to clean it up, and assure even pressure across the deck was to use a file a little wider than the block and move it front to back at an angle until the surface is clean and smooth. This assures that the deck is done evenly, with no dimples or missed spots. Inside the cylinders I place small pellet magnets to collect whatever filings enter, then vacuum everything. After scraping the main gunk off with a scraper, I start the main cleaning with a fine file. This way the block has no uneven spots anywhere
First big job I ever did on a cummins was the head gasket on my 2000 24v. I did a fire ringed gasket from Scheid and ARP head studs as well. I used a couple tiny dabs of super glue to hold my rings in place on the head. No need to worry about alignment. As long has you’re on the the dowels you’re good. Fire rings aren’t that hard as long as you take your time and have a good machinist. To anyone considering it, go for it.
This is one of the first times I have seen a parts manufacturer and youtuber mention the importance of reaching torque values while the torque wrench is in motion. It takes more torque to get the nut to start moving than it takes to keep it moving. So glad you put that in the final edit. As always, another great video.
my old man taught me a great tip when installing studs or bolts every 2 bolts go back to the beginning of the sequence (for example if you just did #7 and #8 go back to #1 and #2 and work your way back up in the sequence.. its very time consuming but i was actually surprised to see how much on the first torque how much more you can get out of them, it also ensures every single bolt is exactly where it needs to be and ensures your not warping the head (especially on small engines , i use that method every time
It’s kinda funny how far behind the diesel world is when is comes to in depth motor work. Also, you can use tack rags, “painters rags” right before you place the head on, will ensure that even the little things are gone. 👍
Awesome awesome video Greg A, ol Mikey Gee sure was a big help to you over the years, awesome awesome guy. And, can’t forget about Russel the ford fan welder teaching ol Greg A how to weld lol. That cylinder head is super awesome, a lot of air moving going to happen with that one for sure it’ll wake the OG 08 up for sure lol.
Hi Greg, don’t know if you know this but make sure the washers by the rocker arm assembly mounting holes are as far out as they go otherwise they will get in the way and the rocker arm assembly won’t line up to the mounting holes. I had this happen on 2 of them when I did my IFG studs, Had to loosen, adjust and re-torque. Just a heads up. Keep up the great content. 👍🏽
Great content! Thank you for showing the tight way to clean a block. 95% of the gasket seals within 1/4” of the cylinder so even if you are perfectly smooth with your air tool, that is the thinnest part of the head so it will take the most material off in the most important part
Another interesting find I’ve come across. The heads on 13 up trucks are different casting than previous heads. You’ll notice on the undersurface of the later model heads 2 circular divots cut out between both exhaust valves and between one exhaust valve and one intake valve. These later heads have larger diameter holes that the head bolts go thru and they allow more movement of the stud in the axial direction when torquing. This often results in the washer pressing against the rocker pedestal. This necessitates clearancing the rocker pedestal some with a grinder or mill if u can. I’ve done them with a grinder. At first I thought the rocker pedestal was different because the new ones have their part number on them. But after measuring and comparing the newer pedestals with the old ones I found they are identical.
Greg, try some diesel fuel or WD-40 with your scotch bright and 5" sanding head to finish things off, it breaks down rust and is a lubricant for your buffing processes...
I always use a block long enough with sand paper wrapped around it so I can do the whole width of the head each stroke best way to get it flat and faster
Flat plate and glue some 220 to it and sand and measure to make it flat takes forever but even after I machine a head it stilll needs the correct surface ra for the mls gasket
Greg on cylinder #2 under that shiny top 1" of the bore from 3 oclock to about 5 o clock of the camera angle used there is a grey patch that looks like a eye brow to me...by chance have you poked a dial bore gauge in those bores to make sure the bores have not moved from over heating?
Hey Greg. Also not all torque wrenches are the same either. I've seen torque wrenches give false readings as well. So stopping short can hurt you in the long run. It's a good rule to get your torque wrenches tested as well.
Greg please run a blow of valve and save the life of tour turbski. I was having the same issues with turbos taken dirt naps but when I did a BLOV it actually helped with the life and less back surge . Not telling you just suggesting I know people hate the thought cause it’s toooo ricey but it works .
anyone ever tried using a knife sharpening stone to deck the block?. I seen sammit use one on his miata engine rebuild recently and looks like it works awesome!
Im literally about to do the same thing with my truck after watching this video cause my stock deleted truck just blew the headgasket. Is there any other upgrades I should do along with the head or can I use my stock stuff fine with the head?
Im getting a 2005 5.9 4wd I was wondering what suspension set up to run I’m gonna be towing heavy with it I plan on it with my family so I want a pretty comfortable ride what do you run on your truck?
May be a dumb question Greg but I’m looking to do a new head on my 6.7 and was wondering if I would have to retune the the truck since it’s getting more air in and out?
Man I cant wait to see that truck move I bet it is going haul ass bud make some more I cant wait intell both 6speed trucks get done I hope u guys stay healthy reagan my daughter says hi to ur little Reagan how old is your little Reagan are little girl is going to be 3
On the ifg studs do you recommend re-torquing after a few heat cycles or just send it? I have a 2018 that needs studs pretty bad and have been considering the ifgs
This head has larger valves! 1.5"! I don't know what stock is......it has all the flows 248cfm of them, I don't know what stock is........ It's better! But is it just marginally better? #justabigad
Anybody in here that could lead me in the right direction? I have an 05 5.9 with a fresh rebuilt 48re that I spent over freaking 4 grand on and won’t shift out of first and also slow to engage. Maybe the solenoids? There original.
I tried ordering Hamilton push rods but they canceled my order cause they won't ship to California its understandable California is a fucked up state and theirs alot of people that live here think the same thing but come on engine parts dam I didn't no it was gonna be like that exspecally even when the thing is registered out of state
Why go out of the way not to mention arp ? I didn't think you said anything bad just your trying new products Anyway love the vids always learn a lot thanks Greg
samsbronco he runs 625 studs on everything for the most part. If you go back to the second gen engine build power driven diesel sponsored him with the innovative studs. They are significantly cheaper so its worth a shot.
With you having done a second gen swap and you liking the exhaust break, will you consider putting Fleece's new exhaust break on this build to restore that function?
