If it were designed to clamp onto the lock like vice-grip, you could basically use a twisting mechanical action and put so much pressure on the lock that it'll break it somehere.
once every few years one of my outside pad locks that i never open get frozen and i have to drill em out, this core puller would save me drill bits and the hassle of dragging long extension cords around.
Azure Wizzard i have a cordless drill, i typically use a mini hacksaw on padlocks, if its something like my Marks lock Mortise then it will eat up about 7-8 drill bits and consume a bit of time, cordless lacks torque and running capacity. cordless is more than enough to go thru chinese tin used on cheap locks, more than enough for any mexican kwikset etc... unfortunately i don't have any of that stuff in my house.
you mean fortunatly hahaha... srsly though, you shouldnt drill out your expensive mortise locks. they are better ways such as a plumber torch or some D-Icer by prolab wich works really well.
azure wizzard i knew nothing about locks until i found this channel last week, i'm gonna pick up graphite powder for my locks, i used wd40, 3-1 oil in the past for that stuff. i think that will save me from future bad experiences. i will eventually pick up a lockpick set once i figure out what's good to start with. this is all new to me and i find it fascinating.
a note on the blue coated concrete screws: The blue coating has bonding property when sufficiently heated by friction. Not meant for impact driver which delivers rotational impact (perpendicular to screw). Drill with masonry setting delivers impact forward (parallel with screw). For a lock, may be most effective to use a drill on low setting (no impact) to drive in screw with enough finishing force to activate bonding benefit from blue coating. Great videos, thanks much!
Hammer drills are used for drilling through masonry. It has nothing to do with TapCons (those get screwed in like any other screw). The Blue (as @William Morrison stated) is for corrosion prevention.
I don't know why I keep watching this because I don't think I ever need it but it's just so satisfying when it opens. Love the way how you make video's always so calm and relaxt !
Firefighter in France have this tool on their truck for some "low" destructive door opening we also have big crowbars / axe but it's way more destructive. We also have a few spare barrets and key's to replace the pulled ones. (In 5 years i had to use it a few times) It's stored in a small suitcase, "hiden" in the truck and sealed also for security reason beacuse it takes less than two minute to break in with it in most situations.
I was just wondering why would anyone bother to make such a tool. I guess it's a legitimate use for firefighters, and it would save time as compared to lockpicking when there's lives at stake.
As an American firefighter we normally try before we pry and if we cant find door or window entrance go straight to the halligan and 1-bit.. im actually here trying to educate myself to sell lock picking as a skill to my fire dept. (when the situation merits) as a mediator between non destructive and forced entry
Wow, he actually has a compressed air rig set up. Wish he would show more of his work bench and tools. He's shown his mini mill, plumber's torch, ramset, slide hammer, and spreaders.
The more I watch yours and Bill's videos the more I understand locks are only as secure as the structure around them, and that ultimately locks only keep honest folks out. Where there's a will there's a way.
Deryl Burney It’s less about keeping honest people honest, as they’re already honest. These locks have to do with opportunity cost. Make the cost of bypassing the lock too great and they’ll move on to a less difficult obstacle; the lock then keeps your valuables safe.
I am sure there is an equation for this, risk and reward multipled by effort and time divided by expense and planning. Even if the average criminal doesn't sit down and work this out. It is still a factor, someone that just needs $10 for their next fix isn't going to spend $50 on a core puller.
Locks are a useful component in defense in depth. The lock shouldn't be the only component in any security system, there should be a guard, camera, other locks, etc.
Does it fit properly over a bottle of wine? I've dealt with quite a few stubborn corks, this just seems like the perfect solution to that. Thanks again for all of your destructive opens. BosnianBill has been slacking quite a bit lately on that front for whatever reason, so it's nice to get my fix.
Funny you should mention wine bottles. Found this lock on eBay last night - www.ebay.com.au/itm/Bottle-Password-Lock-For-Wine-Liquor-Bottle-Vacuum-Picks-Stopper-Conservation/263374573986 but it looks so flimsy I suspect a flathead screwdriver could open it.
I don't know I athing about locks, I never even thought about picking one and I'm generally not interested in locks... But damn I can't stop watching your videos! Keep it up!
Bjorn, I was in the same camp as you for picking locks, then I locked myself out of a building. Locksmith was 30 miles away, required $133 bucks upfront, and opened lock like he was Lock Picking Lawyer's brother. (Hmmm, does LPL have a beard?)
Yesterday I witnessed German firefighters using this "Zieh-Fix" ("Pull-fast") on an appartment door. Mom had left keys inside and door fell close due to wind. Little baby was crying heavily in the appartment. Opening took 5 minutes causing a broken cylinder worth 13 euros. Mom was happy to buy a new one after hugging the firefighter. Locksmith was not available due to Sunday in a remote village. Very good tool. German quality :-)
When you first showed the core puller it reminded me at these hole shearing devices for metal sheets, we used at work. They have a very similar construction with a thrust bearing and a beefy fine pitch screw. At this point I was pretty sure, if the concrete screw doesnt slip of of the core, to see this look loose, but I really expected more from the core retention plate.
Too true. Some videos, like this, or the Ramset video's, or the nut splitter videos, or bosnianbill's grinder video remind us that picking is a last resort most of the time. Personally, if I can't rake it open in a few minutes, I use a cordless Dremel and a 3mm carbide burr.
I'd like to see (if such a thing exists) reviews on locks that _can't_ be defeated. It's pretty depressing, seeing every padlock being so easily compromised.
Yes I have asked both this guy and bosnian bill to pick open a certain camlock that is made by compx national. It's called a keset lock model n4 2010-001. You can check it out by going to compx.com press products and go under vending and gaming locks. It looks easy like a tubular lock but it's not. These guys never mess with these locks. They tried the tubar but not the keset or the system 64. They open easy as hell locks. Padlocks and tubular locks open very easy.
shutupsucka they open “easy” ones cause those are the ones everyone buys. They also open ones that are advertised as unpickable to educate people on their security measures. To make sure people know which ones to avoid
@@ashleymarie2749 from what I have seen, every single lock ever made to avoid. I too think it would be good to promote the good/unpickable ones readily available. Its fine to show the crap, but thats most of it...and companies like master lock clearly just dont care, as most locks are bypassed by an easily fixable weak point. They dibt address this as no one knows what else to buy that's better. If lpl an bb etc show more of the ones they cant pick, the commercial pressure might force master lock.etc to address the flaws as their sales drop. But as ut stands, we don't know what to buy, so stick with....so if ur master lock etc, why change anything! Even this pulled model 700 would be such a simple engineering fix to address this glaring weak point.
Love the core puller, resistance is futile! When driving Tap-cons into concrete I also find that an impact driver will snap them or spin them. A little wax or a product called Door Ease makes them drive far easier.
or don't inform the thief you have valuables to subtract from you. but whatever we do, thieves are people and they want to make a living for their families lol!
I don't know about the 700s, but in a 1200 series I used a punch to put a divot into the retaining nut then used a drill bit the diameter of the shank to drill off the head. It was quite easy, didn't skate around at all.
I found this silly wine bottle lock on eBay last night - www.ebay.com.au/itm/Bottle-Password-Lock-For-Wine-Liquor-Bottle-Vacuum-Picks-Stopper-Conservation/263374573986 I thought it would amuse you. Looks so filmy it would be trivial to get it open. Not sure about the glass of the bottle though.
I'm going to start using concrete screws to secure my stuff. I just screwed my bike to the front porch. Now I don't have to worry about it getting stolen.
Well done! I would think they could beef up the design so that the brass core would strip out before the screw failed. Also interesting to note that one security measure, hardening the retention plate, introduces a weakness, brittleness and a lack of sheer strength. Case hardening of the retention plate might be best.
I've seen videos of fire fighters pulling cores out of toors with a puller that has a big lever on it instead the thread. Was pretty quick, but doesn't work on padlocks of course.
As someone who has worked with tapcons before (worked sheet metal roofing, sometimes needed to go into concrete walls), I'm surprised at how well it held. I've always been so used to them snapping with such little force. Thankfully, I don't worry about this now.
Very interesting. If you plan ahead and come prepared, you could use the same bottom pins and replace the core and retention plate with new ones, and it's possible nobody would know the lock had been tampered with. While you're at it and have the core out it would be easy to impression the bottom pins and make yourself a key when you are back in your shop.
A core puller? We use core pullers in the fire departement as one method of entry among others. edit: Ours you can operate with a cordless drill for more speed. 03:55 We use different screws. One kind to pre-cut the hole and then we remove it and use a different, more sturdy screw for the pulling of the core.
Hi, another great video. Please could you try in on a multi lock Euro cylinder or one similar just to see if it can pull the core out of it. Thank you for sharing Tony
We use American Locks for securing certain equipment at my job. They’re pretty great when they work but a major pain when they go bad. Fortunately, that doesn’t happen all that often despite constant exposure to the elements and being opened and closed daily if not multiple times in a day.
I would recommend using deckmate style deck screws instead of the tapcon in the future. My years in the construction trades showed me on numerous occasions how brittle the metal in tapcons are. Deck mate screws are far less likely to break. It got to the point where I was using deckmate screws as concrete anchors in place of tapcons because of a much lower failure rate. When installing tapcons I would expect a failure rate of 30 to 50%.
I saw this device for the first time accompanying the local guy for shoes and keys at a door opening and i was astonished and a little bit frightened how easy opening a door without the key is.. takes all but 3 minutes. 8-)
It's rare i see a new commercially available lock tool on youtube before I see it else where! :) ... what is this tool?? ... Looks like something that could save some time, and much safer personally, than drilling the domed retainer nut ... and It leaves the padlock easily re-build-able for the customers re-use (new plate screw and cylinder in the event it can't be picked open),.
A japanese style philips screwdriver bit with a ratchet is good for getting leverage on screws that are hard to put in. Basically just file off the tip of a philips head a tiny bit so it's flat and it won't slip nearly as easily.
Had my bike locked with a similar lock and was stolen. The only thing left on the ground was the retention plate.. Everything else was gone. Now I know how it was done.
![[607] Core Puller vs. American Series 700 Padlock](/img/logo.svg){kind=logo}
