This How-to video will show you how to remove and replace your Classic Chevrolet or GMC Truck's steering coupler. Product Link: www.holley.com/brands/brother...
Rag joints have metal pinch points on both side. (Most, but not all) The side that attaches to the input shaft of the steering gear, has a flat for locating the flex joint, but splines as well. Exposed to salty water, dirt everything due to its location, come prepared. Penatrating oil, a cold chisel with a high angle to open the metal pinch point. Duck-bill pliers are common, but inside duck-bill when squeezed, open. So once the bolt is removed, I take the largest pair of 3, squeeze to push to two halves apart. Generally, the large thick cold chisel can be used to tap the rag joint off the steering box. If not damaged, a new rubber alone can be installed. Depending on the condition of the hardware, many have metal locking tabs that fold over a flat on the bolts head for safety. Get some good light on yours, to see how it is made, be it OEM or replaced and different. To install a new intermediate shaft or steering gear, may not match because of outside (O. D.) and number of splines. You have to measure the thickness or O.D. with vernier calipers that work best. They are very reasonably priced and have a digital readout, in my case, they get used a lot. In some cases with various 60’s model truck, it seems where a P/S gear box was not an option, but steering boxes are made and will fit. My 1967 C10 or Blazer had no P/S option, so no listing. If I go to 1972, I have 6 brands to choose from. Join forums, search using simple words or ask. Call customer support and ask, but please measure input and output (Pitman Shaft), count the splines and look for the flat or missing spline first. Mark with a contrasting marker or tape with an ink pen arrow. Just be prepared to have good info before that call, if online, take photos. Use them at each step of taking apart just to help your self. I am not telling what to do as yours will vary, but for decades, I pulled tools and placed them on my roll cart. Having what you need and wheel over to the job, saves time, knees and trips to grab something you forgot. A better experience. (Tip) Use anti-seize on the splines, fasteners, frame bolts, etc. It will help you or others later. The OTC pitman arm puller can be rented at parts stores, but the one I use, has lasted 3 decades+...good tool. Hope this helps give confidence that you can do it (Rag Joint, Steering Gear, both) and if a center punch marks are use on shaft form steering wheel and nothing at the box is moved or put straight, no alignment, unless it was aligned with an iffy part (Shouldn’t Be). If you are fixing a newer vehicle, like rack & pinion, w/Air Bags, use bungy cord from steering wheel to the brake pedal, It will save the wire coil behind the steering wheel, called a clockspring sometimes) ASE Master since 1978 - Retired Best of luck to all. Keep em going!!
As the comments below mention - I wish you showed what you loosened to move the column up to gain access. Mine on my 68 c 20 is resisting my trying to move it.
When the struggles are significant we always include them so you can learn from them, but when they're just a tedious waste of time we cut them to keep the video length reasonable. Thank you for the feedback, we appreciate hearing what people want from our content.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV Yeah I would agree with John, but you do have a good point, still want a short(ish) clean videos. Maybe producing a second, longer video, with outtakes and or the struggles. The video may not get as many views, but it might help more people lol and in turn keep us coming back to view more though. I realize that a second video sounds like more work...but in theory it could just be a less edited version of the final more polished one, so maybe not more work just saving a copy that is more raw to give more insight. Just thinking out loud, thanks.
I have a 66 c10 that I’m getting ready to change the rag joint. I wish you’d shown everything you had to do inside the cab to gain access. I think mine maybe a collapsible shaft as it seems to slide up towards the firewall when I pried it with a screwdriver. If so I wouldn’t have to do anything inside the cab…Am I wrong in this thinking? Did you replace the joint with a Lares? Thanks for your reply.
It is supposed to collapse in an accident. Shouldn't have to fight it to slide the shaft up. You did not take the shaft apart to lubricate. You'll be wearing a steering wheel in your chest.
What size sockets? I can’t figure mine out and it’s really got me pissed. I’m trying to remove the whole steering column from my 65 c20 and put it in my 66 c20 because some how my steering (shaft?) is broken in my 66, yeah I can pull my whole steering wheel clear back to my back window and I actually just did it and pulled at an angle (barley enough clearance) and got my steering wheel off with the shaft still attached. Okay but then I can look under my hood at the firewall and you can’t even tell my steering shaft is out. So where in the hell or how the hell is this broken? I don’t know how they come apart or anything much about them. Man I am stumped. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Nicholas, way too many things going on here. Please call our customer service and ask for Jamie or John and they'll help you sort out those issues you're having. We can tell you for sure that the "C" Clip at the bottom of the column that's able to be pulled out is missing or broken. 800-977-2767
