They really need to bring some of these older model kits back. I am desperate to get my hands on a good Cobra 427 and a 68 Cougar. Clicked on the vid because. Subscribed because of the content. Really pretty color.
Thanks Adam, would love to see some of these return again, when they do it seems like there a short run, then your picking them up at model shows. I like the MCW paints due to there original factory colors.. Have a good one!
Thanks Mark I really appreciate it! I have people ask a lot on the subject, figured you can never have enough how too vids.. with different techniques. I have found this works the best for me, especially with enamels. Have a good one Mark!
These videos make me want to go all in MCW Paints. Just to have the option handy. Also, the speckles of paint you're getting while spraying are coming from closing the needle and letting up on the air at the same approx time. Spray past your part and close the needle but keep the air on for a second afterward and you won't have that.
Thanks Dane for the info, I was finding the Point Zero airbrush I was using gives me some problems from time to time with the metallic clumping, The largest needle is a .03 that is used for it, it also has rubber O-rings that is starting to swell, I think its pulling extra air in... Its a cheapy lol. I just got an Iwata, looking forward on trying the MCW with that.. Thanks for the Comment and hope you had a great Christmas!
Thanks, I picked up that Point Zero airbrush on eBay for 30 bucks and the compressor for 70.00 also eBay. I have been using them for almost a year with no complaints, you should look into one.. You would love it, has so much more control..
Thanks David, MCW give me some challenges in the early stages, after a few kits had finally had it laying down good. I have had people ask how I paint, figured would make a good video, hope it helps others with airbrushing.. Have a good one David!
Thanks John, I had my trials with MCW when first started to use them mixing per their instructions always was flat and dry looking adding more thinner and extra hardener made all the difference..
Excellent paint work my friend! Your process is almost exactly the way I paint as well. I use the point zero air brush too. I have the .2 in mine for my metal paints cause I can adjust the Mac valve. I was just learnin a friend of mine as well about last coat being thinned, and let it set an hour before dehydrator. I like your use of the Tamiya jars for the MCW hardener. Even after cleaning lid and rim, I’ve had 2 welded shut. I’m going to try that and get another bottle. I’m thinking I want to do one of my 70’ Torino’s in that highland green with the laser stripe.👍👍 keep em comin.
Thanks Robert, that's cool. I like that Point Zero works good, I had a .2 in when I first bought it, for some metallic paints with heavy flake was spiting once and while, went to the .3 has been working better. I cant tell you how many jars I threw out and broke a few with pliers, especially with hardener or clear. Was at a hobby shop and saw those Tamiya jars, they work amazing. Would like to see that Torino done up! Have a good one.....
Hey Mars here from MARS GARAGE. Rob from time machines send me over. And I just sub to your channel.. I have a 69 cougar "the eliminator" and I have been thinking of building it and now that I saw this video I'm looking forward to see what you do with it.
Thanks Mars, Rob Is a good guy to chat with, has a good channel going over there.. I'm looking forward on finishing this Cat, I had to strip the chrome down and re-do had a lot of yellow showing, hopefully I can get it shinning again.. Have a good one!
Hi Kreg Time Machines Scale Models Rob sent me over just sent you a sub greetings from Ireland awesome work by the way and a really nice-looking color well done Sir👍
My stashed 69 Cougar is molded in yellow😝. I prefer grey primer as well for picking out minor flaws. I have used used dryer sheets to take down the rough primer spray...worked pretty good as i feel the wet sanding it was out of my realm @ the moment...still learning😂😂. Did the alligator clips leave bite marks on the mirrors?...they did on my 69 Mustang.Enjoyed your video & as always looking forward to the next. Cheers
Hey Jeff, I have never tried a dryer sheet, would probably do a good job for just a light do over, No I had not seen any marks, some of my clips do not bit as bad anymore I think due to the paint, I always have a hard time trying to hold the mirrors, never know the best way to hold them without sticking them on the car.. Have a good one!
So glad you posted this video. Trying my first enamel spray (MCW) later this week. This video will be so helpful ! Dumb question : how long do you wait between coats ? Btw, this is my favorite modeling channel by far.
Thanks Thomas, Appreciate it! If your using the hardener I only wait enough time spray the hood for its second coat along with the other same color parts then back onto the body for its last coat, so its probably about a few minutes or so, I usually put it on heavy and never have run issues, another reason I like the MCW. Have been using it for some time, have any other questions on it let me know... Have a Good one Thomas!
@@kregskorner8851 I've been using SMS paints for several months. They are acetone based acrylics and are airbrush ready out of the bottle. They go on very nicely and have amazing coverage due to their high pigment content. I find that the gloss paints don't come out as shiny as your car did, but I always use the SMS high gloss clear anyway, so the end result is a nice glossy look.
I never do, is that a thing lol. I have it sitting there and always thought would be bad deal if that spilled out.. Have a good one Jerry I'll catch you later...
I like adding thinner to the final coat to help level the paint out, it goes on with little color and gives it a look of glass. The MCW was a learning curve for me, after some time using it has been working good for me. Thanks for the comment, have a good one Jay!
You don't seem to suffer the dreaded dry needle tip. Also, the first time I tried airbrushing i ended up with RSI repetitive strain injury and had to give it away for a week. You guys must have big musclely index fingers!
Great work! Great color. I have a Mustang on the shelf. I want to go with calypso coral for the color. Have you ever painted that color? Where did you source the paint? Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expirence in the videos.
Thanks, I was going to paint this calypso at first, I have it in MCW lacquer, have never sprayed it.. Looking forward to it I think on the 69 Torino Fastback kit. I buy the MCW from Hobby Nut Models, Mark is a great guy to deal with, you can only get the enamels from him, if you want the lacquer's, have to get them right from MCW out of OHIO, also good bunch.. can mix you any color you want.. Wife and I went to Massillon, OH to visit MCW last winter, was looking for a specific color and he mixed it up for me on the spot.. Have a good one!
Great video! I have been airbrushing now for a few months and will never go back to rattle cans. I use a lot of MCW enamels but thin it with Home Depot lacquer thinner and don't use a hardener. I sprayed that same paint you did for the Cougar but it did not come out nearly as shinny. Do you get that shine from adding more thinner for the final coat?
Thanks Appreciate it! I will add just a small amount of thinner for last coat to help smooth , like 2ml, depending if its solid color or metallic just have to be carful thinning paint too much can reactivate the prev coats and make the metallic pull from sharp edges and door jambs. If your getting a dull finish it might be the thinner or too high of air pressure, I had tried several brands, then started using the Mr. Color leveling thinner due to its slow dry time. Hardener will also help with the shine. Its one of those trial and error things, when I first started using MCW, almost give up on it, took two bottles to paint the AMT 62 T-Bird was just dull and dry, after some air pressure adjustments and changed the thinner AND with more paint jobs, finally had it figured out for a nice shine. Now its my go too paint. I plan on another paint video soon with some new tips.. Hope this helps, have any questions will be glad to help if I can.. Have a good one!
Thanks Jamie, one of my favorite greens, and yes you can dehydrate apples, carrots and model cars lol. That dehydrator is the best investment I have ever made, highly recommend one, I saw others using this same one. Picked it up on eBay, so nice even a primer job 10 min later fully cured, for the Cougar with the enamel I will bake that on and off for about 20 hrs. The most time you can program is 10 hrs, it defaults is10 as soon as you turn it on and then can adjust... There a game changer... Have a good one!
@@kregskorner8851 thanks Kreg I have one but the one I have is the round one your is way better maybe I need a new one please tell my wife lol thanks for sharing peace out brother
Thanks, I buy most of it at Hobby Nut Models, has a lot of colors along with all the thinners and hardeners. The oven is a food dehydrator from Amazon its a 9 tray Ivation, works well around 130 bucks well worth it!
Great video and great tips, what is the type/ name of oven used in video please ? will you clear coat the highland green or leave it? as is looks very glossy without polishing ?
Thanks appreciate it, the oven is a 9 tray food dehydrator by Ivation. you can pick them up Amazon around 130. works great I have had it going on two years and use it daily.
Thanks for posting this video. Looks awesome! I am new to airbrushing and wanted to see how various modelers paint. I see what appears that you continually airbrushed. Did you leave the paint to tack up between the may coats you applied? Also it appears it was done in all acrylic lacquers? Is that correct? Thanks in advance!!
Thanks, I only let it tack between parts, I always start with the smaller parts and onto the body, once done with the body for a few coats, I go right back to the first piece I painted and so on. I actually use enamels, most my paint jobs on the body work is enamel paint and under, engine bay and interior is lacquers. I just finished a six part paint series from primer to wet sanding, decals and clear. I went more in depth, painting the Revell 69 GTO in orange, I had a lot of questions on the subject so thought would do another paint demo..
Usually just the time to repaint the hood and other small parts and right back on the body, so maybe a few minuets. I use to clear everything back in the rattle can days, I started using MCW and had bad luck first time using so I pulled back on it, especially after getting the paint jobs to turn out nice, I had a kit with some decals and decided to retry and yes now I have been clearing them. I am doing an updated paint video soon showing between times and air pressures with a few other things. Thanks for watching Douglas, have any questions on the MCW will be happy to answer, if I can lol.. Have a good one!
So question I've only ever used enamel but I've never used the hardner. What does that do and do I need? If i need it where can one find that my hobby store doesn't have it. 😅
Sorry for getting back to you late! Hardener will help with cure time and durability, will also help with the shine. You don't have to use it, I have noticed you can go with heavier coats without any runs, and if you want to wet sand or polish will speed up the process. I get mine from Hobby Nut Models and from MCW themselves its around 6-7 bucks a bottle, some guys will buy automotive hardener due to cost, if using hardener you have about four hrs. or so to spray and clean up or can damage an airbrush.. Have a good one Jeremy!
one part I'm curious on is what I need to be doing with the airbrush in between coats. Do you just have it on a stand with paint still in it? Or do you clean it out after a coat, then refill?
In between coats I just leave it sitting in the airbrush, being enamel it can sit for a bit without problems, even if the cup runs empty and I just leave it without cleaning while I remix another batch just dump in and go. I will still test a spoon or something to verify my new mix is correct. Even Lacquer paint can sit for a few. Only Acrylic paints you would run into a drying problem in the gun, me personally, I steer clear of them for that reason. Within the next week I am going to put up a part two to this with more in-depth, I get a-lot of paint questions, always like helping out when I can.. Have a good one..
Hi! im a bit confused about thinners. That Mr. Color thinner ( the normal and the one you used, with the retarder) shouldn't it only be suitable for lacquer painting or can it also be used with enamel paint? thank you.
The leveling thinner can be used with both, I like it especially with enamels due to the slower dry time for a smooth look, I don't recommend it on flat colors more so on lacquers it can hinder the flat effect and give more of a satin look, I use the regular thinner for those, other then that I use the leveling thinner most of the time.. Have a good one!
I use around 18-19 psi, I'm in process of making a revised pt 2 on this with more in-depth. I get a lot of paint questions and always happy to help anyone in the hobby, next video I'm hoping have out in a week or so... Have a good one!
Well, I was out.. I use MCW primer did not have enough left over to cover so went with my old stand by, the Tamiya lays down nice, have to go light with it, runs vary easy. It's my one dislike about it.
You mentioned you are doing 15 ml of paint, but it appears the pipettes you are using are only 3ml. Can you confirm how much paint you are using? If those are 3ml. Pipettes, you should be doing 5 squirts to get 15 ml, not three as you mentioned.
Yes I had misspoke on that, should be more like 1.5. Thanks for reminding me about that, I am going to do another paint start to finish video on the GTO giveaway car with more in-depth on the mix ratios with better camera angle/views.. Have a good one!
Thanks Tom for the correction, it does read that on the pipettes I always miss speak at times.. Thanks again, will pay more attention to that one, Have a good one Tom!