6F35 Transmission Repair Cost with Options: HOW TO ESCAPE 

Hey there Chris- thanks so much for sharing your experience as well- that's good to know- not bad coming in at $4K to fix it all in- the transmission shop near me said the same thing about them always coming in. Great advice to hold onto the receipts- I hadn't thought of that, so thanks for that advice! . It's unreal how many of our Escapes are affected. Hopefully there's some resolution at some point. How has the rebuilt transmission been since then? Have you been happy with the work that was done? Thanks again for sharing

Do you mind if I ask what shop you used. I’m in NW Georgia also and my 2016 transmission just went out. $4000 for a rebuild doesn’t sound too bad.

Hey Chris I’m in NW Georgia, Can you Please tell me where you had your Transmission done? This just happened to mine at 165,000 miles. Mr Transmission said 7,000 Dollars. Sad thing is I just bought this 4 months ago.

Also sad to see you subjected to such a catastrophic repair. $2,000 doesn't seem that bad considering the repair. We sold out 2013 with 87k miles for just $6500.

Thanks very much, Michael- as, always, great to hear from you from across the pond, sir! Yeah, it's a dramatic increase in space from our Escape, but we do want to hang onto it for a while longer- if we find it gets in the way or funds need to go to something else, we may have a tougher decision down the road, but I'm going to try and keep making some content while we still can :) If plans change for family reasons, it will still be a good reason to do so, so it's a better of 2 good options in my mind

@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews I live in Michigan

@@michaelkloeckner6353 Ugh - I'm so sorry Michael- I must have confused you with another RU-vidr who would often share his references of his Kuga in the UK also named Michael. Please accept my apologies, sir. Thank you for the follow up and the correction!

​@@michaelkloeckner6353 Go Blue! 📒🟦former Grand Haven resident now down in Florida.🌴🦀🐊🦩

Nick did you ever find out where he got his done for 4K? I’m in NW Georgia and at 165 k this has happened to me!

Oh man, so the 165kmi is just when ours went out as well haha. Unfortunately there have been others who have had it go sooner and later, but it's just this design of transmission that really stinks :/ 6F35 6 speed transmission if you'd like to look up some info about it.... My suggestion would be to try a drain and fill to get some newer fluid inside and then check the fluid level with the leveling port on the driver's wheel well. If it's still doing that after the fluid change and up to temp, it could be something more serious. In terms of the mechanism mentioned and it being in idle, are you saying that you'll be in Drive and it will go into Neutral? If so, it could be your shift cable bushing failing and your drive selector lever on the top of the transmission could be out of sync with your shift lever in the cabin. Please respond when convenient- very interested to know a bit more. Thanks!

@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews Yes... I'll be in drive, and then suddenly, the car drops to neutral. I had a trans guy look at it, and he told me that it needs a complete rebuild. ($5,700!) I'm getting a second opinion tomorrow. So brutal.

Hi there Sandy- sure thing. So just like a typical engine oil change every 3-5k miles, your transmission uses a different type of oil that also needs changing. This is the Ford specified Mercon LV Automatic Transmission fluid. The oil is a rich transparent red color when it's brand new, just like your engine oil is typically a deep gold color when new. As the fluid ages, it becomes a burned brown, and can even have worn bits of transmission components are worn down by everyday use. There are magnets and filters to collect these metal particulates and prevent them from being pumped back into circulation with the transmission fluid, and that's all good. It's good practice to drain the transmission fluid and replace it with the amount that came out every 30,000 miles. Dealers will sometimes suggest a "Transmission Fluid Flush" which is OK, but it always risks stirring up the metal bits which have settled and been retained by the magnets and filters- if loose again, these bits can harm the rest of the transmission and makes the "flush" somewhat risky and unnecessary. Therefore, a drain and fill is the easiest on the system by just pulling the plug (bolt) out of the bottom of the transmission housing, draining however much fluid will come out, and then adding more to the fill port in the engine bay. If you're not sure if the correct amount was present before, there is also a leveling plug on the side in the driver's wheel well where you can also remove a plug that will drain any excess fluid once the transmission is up to operating temperature and viscosity. If you'd like a step by step, we have a tutorial on changing transmission fluid on our channel if you just look in our listed videos :) Hope this helps!

Did you find the problem?

@@INTEL965GAMES it seems to come and go, I change the fluid 2x now, maybe needs to change once more. To get all old out. But prolly needs to reset the shift tables using forscan.

I'm experiencing the same issue with my 2012 Escape. 148 000 miles.

@@justlg3359 fordtechmakaloco indicates that the shift tables will reset if you disconnect the battery overnight.

Our 2nd car is a 2020 Santa Fe. It's a well very equipped vehicle. All the features work great and it drives well,, but honestly look at Hyundai and their engine issues. If you want to go 130k+ miles reliably go for a Japanese brand.

Where are you located? I would pay that in an instant, if you can provide good references, and you are close enough to make it work. I don't need it yet, but I am at 166K miles on my 2015 2.0L Titanium.

Where are you located?

Sorry for the delay here- man, only 65k miles? that is rough. Just out of warranty too. Powertrain warranty is 60k miles... ugh. I'd be so frustrated. What codes did you get for the trans? If the block is cracked and has the coolant issue too, it may be a better bet to just pull a whole engine/trans out of another vehicle that was totaled if you can find one. Are you pretty confident in the work done to DIY it?

@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews yep, 65k miles and the torque converter and or transmission pump is dead. The coolant stuff started at probably 60k. Maybe it had a 60k powertrain warranty, but I'm sure after 10 years that's long gone. When the car was towed to me, it had codes P0219 P0733 and P0734 over speed condition of engine, gear ratio 3 incorrect, and gear ratio 4 incorrect. Realistically I either fix the car to sell it, or I part it out. If I can get a transmission for $450, then I can deal with pulling the engine. I don't think it's worth whatever extra cost to replace the engine if I'm just going to sell it to carvana or whatever. Ive never pulled an engine, but with the full video I found I'm sure I could do it. These Ford's are just absolute junk.

You should try resetting the trans codes. That can sometimes bring the operation back to normal. Sounds strange but I experienced pretty much exactly the same as you described. The Ford manual tells the technician to reset the codes and see if the problem persists before doing any other work. Mine has worked well for 6 months since resetting the trans codes. I used the OBD Link MX+ Good Luck!

Really?!@@YZF648 I actually DO have the same OBD Link MX+.... so you had the same buzzing noise and the same loss of power as shown in the video? IF so, that would be incredible.

@@YZF648 resetting codes isn't going to make a noise caused by the torque converter and or transmission pump go away. I wiped the over speed codes and all of the stuff that the car threw when the problem first started, but it still does the same thing. It seems to start making the noise once it gets a little warm, which seems to be very quickly at like 70F, and then goes on and off of making noise, and when it's not making noise, it won't move, probably because if it's the transmission pump, then every time the pump temporarily stops, you can't shift and the torque converter I guess also stops working due to no fluid pressure.