Hey guy, really nice video and explanations. I dont even have a 7.3 (YET), but between watching you and that Cox fella I'm pretty sure I could successfully replace/upgrade some injectors and cups. Thanks for the great content.
The safe way to avoid hydro lock is when the glow plugs are removed, replace the valve covers with a couple bolts, then hand crank the engine several revolutions by the main shaft. Important to put the valve covers back on or it will spray oil everywhere!
Very good advice! I cranked it over by hand with the glow plugs and injectors out.... It got the fluid out of the cylinders but pushed some back into the cups. I also strongly recommend putting the valve cover back on. I just covered the holes with rags and ended up spraying my work bench!! 🤣 had to edit that out of the video. 😏
@@mygarage. Just costs "8 sense" to pull cups .. lol 😂 ... I DO thread cut all the way to the bottom, and then back off 1/2 turn... because it is possible to try to pull a cracked cup (and a lot of them Crack just above the first bevel at the weak point) and have the cup separate during the pull... Bottoming out, seals the penny to the bottom of the cup further protecting the hole from shavings falling on in. And reinstalling rule#1 ... CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN ...
Thank you! I'm glad you enjoy my videos. Yes you can switch split shot over to single shot injectors, I would suggest getting a power hungry Hydra to maximize your performance.
Hi i have engine 7.3 1996. but i have a problem. Frecuently be mix oil with diesel and change new orings and works again by some time. do you think that my cup is broken or need replace?
Usually a crack in the injector cup will put fuel into the coolant. Oil and fuel mix has to be within the injector, or oring, possibly the fuel pump failed and it's leaking from the pump pushrod.
I am going to be replacing it, there is a lot of RTV gooped up around it, and its leaking. I want to get the pan off and reaseal it right. Stay tuned, it's going to be in a video soon! Thank you for your comment and support. The next video should be out soon! I made a decision to get some up grades. This should get better as it goes.
Im just replacing my injector seals do i have to pull the cup out? And i dont have the tools to move the shaft to pump oil out of the pistons! Can i just put injectors back in and just crank it a few times, i had oil in my fuel so asking how they drained those, i just put new oil in b4 the seals went bad,
You don't have to pull the cup out to do injectors. I would recommend installing the injectors, removing the glow plugs and crank the engine over.... It's going to make a big mess, but you will need to get the oil and fuel out of the cylinder or else you will hydro-lock it.
So if someone didn’t drain the coolant before pulling the cups out -like you specifically warned against- and the coolant went into the engine, what would be the appropriate next steps to take?
I would drain the coolant, and the engine oil, pull the glow plugs out, and replace the injector cups. Then install the injectors, then roll the engine over by hand to "pump" the Coolant and oil out of the cylinders, re install the glow plugs, add oil and coolant, and fire it off.
Once you get the cup out, there isn't much left in the bore. I used a cylindrical wire brush and sprayed it down with brake parts cleaner. Nothing big goes into the cylinder.
If you get the injector cup out without getting coolant, oil and fuel in the cylinder, there isn't much debris to worry about. I used a cylindrical wire brush on a slow speed drill. Basically like a shot gun barrel brush. Not really any debris was in the bore. Sprayed with a small amount of brake clean, and blew it out with compressed air.
@@mygarage. Dang, I found a good article with dummy proof photos so I figured it out. I have the injector bore brush but my loc tite was rock hard lol. So far since posting the comment I have 4 cylinders done. I have had to use a long pick and a modified shop vac hose to get the debris out. I really appreciate your video it is helping me.
Oh yeah, the sleeve compound can be a little hard. A pic and a vacuum should work out pretty well. I'm glad you like my videos. Good luck with your build.
This an engine stand that was purchased from Summit Racing. I found an even better one at Jegs. It has the same crank on it to roll the engine, but its rated for 1,500 pounds. The one I used is only rated for 1,000.
I am not sure. The Engine serial number was a 98 production. So obviously was not original to the donor truck (it was a 97) the donor has 324k on the clock, but the engine looked relatively clean inside, and had even compression between 375psi and 400psi (Measured cold @ 6,000 ft elevation) I know it wasn't the correct way of checking compression, I was only looking for good even numbers.
Well if it's a diesel and it doesn't have any emissions equipment... Carbon is normal. If it's gas powered, carbon at the tip would mean it waaaaaaaay too rich.
Yeah, its normal to have it fill with fuel, and oil. You HAVE to drain the coolant too or else all that will go into the cylinder also. Having fluid go into a cylinder isn't a big deal, you just need to crank the engine over with the injector or glow plug out so you don't hydro lock it.
@@jeremybarbieri5150 thank you for responding so soon. It kinda gave me a scare when I saw it fill up but I'm happy to hear it's normal. Thank you for the help. Great video!