This is a reassembly of a fuel injector for a Ford 7.3L Powerstroke To see the disassembly of this injector, be sure to check out part 1. • Ford 7.3 Diesel Inject... Injector tools and rebuild kits: 406injectors.com
Duuuuude, you are the MAN!!! Best 7.3L injector rebuild videos I have EVER seen. The people that gave you thumbs down are idiots. I am ready to save $1500 and rebuild my own injectors now. Thank You!!!
Need to edit video! I also was a victim of putting the hold down on backwards. Truck will act like its hydrolocked. Pulled back apart and flipped hold down and base around and problem solved. Glad I went back and read these comments.
Thank-you for catching that and posting it in the comments! Good catch! I did compare to the disassembly video, and you are right. Like KNOXBARN86, I too would have done it incorrectly...
These are the best instructional videos I’ve ever seen on RU-vid. Thank you so much for spending your time to do these, I’m going to rebuild my injectors at some point and will use these videos as a guide. Thanks again!!!!
BRAVO THANKS FOR TAKING YOUR TIME TO SHOW US THIS REBUILD THE BEST VIDEO IN THE WORLD FOR 7.3 INJECTOR REMAN , THERE ARE ALOT OF VIDS OUT THERE THAT ARE SO POOR. THANK YOU
Nice video. Glad to see how simple these injectors are. All the forums and fb groups act like they take a rocket scientist to rebuild. Now I know I can save a bunch of money rebuilding my own.
I have to admit the way you show and explained how to do this job from start to finish my 10 year old daughter can do it herself. That is how easy you explained the whole process. It build my confident to be able to do this myself! Part1 and Part2 will be save on my 80G for life. I like to do as much fixing as I can to save money and this job is not different!!!! Thank you for taking your time in doing this video it helps a lot and saves us a lot of money,
Thank you very much. Shortly after posting these videos we lost our shop and storage shed business to a tornado. I haven’t posted or answered any questions really on either video - or made any new ones. We hope to rebuild my shop this year. Glad it helped you out!!
@@georgetergin1425 Oh my God... I am so sorry to hear that! I'll pray that things fall in place for you and your family be safe!!! Thank you for taking time to reply I appreciated, You take care brother keep pushing forward.
I am truckrental on Ebay . I see you are using my deluxe rebuild kit with tools , and doing a great job showing how to use my kit, but people think that you got them from 409 injectors . 409 injectors thinks you do not need to shim the injectors armature more than .002" to make them last longer,( when new injector come with over .004" under the Armature and last ) and they do not have shims to shim the solenoids to keep the armature from hitting the solenoids and throwing a codes. I have done more than 20 of my fleet of truck and it works. I have not bought any new injector in 2-3 years thank you Bob
New injectors have armature clearance around .004" from the factory. When the clearance falls below .002" we start to see cold start issues from the oil not draining when cold. Since it's a used injector we only want to remove the issue with the least amount of intervention.
Some people say when you shim the Aperture in worn injectors that it will need more machining to fix later. Some people shim worn ones back to 4 thousands. And their trucks start easier cold
Amazing series. Thank you for making this. Since there are multiple injector models that can be bought for the 7.3, I'd like to know; if the injector rebuild kits work for any injector that fits in the 7.3?
If the internal o rings go bad would that cause lots of blue smoke? I replaced the outside o rings too. I've got a tiny amount of blowby that can slightly bounce a sports drink cap but won't do anything a the oil cap.
I have seen different torque specs for the body and the plate screw. 65 ft lbs for the body, and 25 ft lbs for the plate. All in videos, so I am wondering where to get the ford/international specs, to make sure I am using the correct specs?
Good Morning George , when you cleaned everything up You talked about the ultrasonic cleaner , did you clean the Armature in the ultrasonic or just solvent or brake kleen ?
Where do you get that fixture to hold the bottom of the injector in the clamp? 406injectors.com? The link goes to a different site. Maybe the name has changed. Can seem to find how to find the kit on the linked site.
I took pictures of my disassembly and noticed at reassembly that his hold down clamp was backwards also. I would have second guessed myself had you not commented. Thanks!
Just received an E-mail today from Matthew @ 406Injectors which are your parts supplier. He clearly stated "We only shim the armature plate. If you don't shim over .002" then there is no need to shim the solenoid. No need to shim more than .002" clearance". Also - as stated below, your top plate need to turned 180`deg. as it sits backwards. It will trow an IDM code and you will have an injector miss function. How I know - I very well did this myself.
I've been waiting for a follow up from your previous comment. I was planning on rebuilding my injectors soon, and I want to us this video to do it. Therefor, when I rebuild this injector, do not shim the 4 screws on the top, just shim the plate? Seems to make sense as bitterroot diesel (406 Injectors)only sells 8 .002 shims and 8 .001 shims in the deluxe kit, I'm over here saying "this don't make any sense thats not enough shims", but if your just shimming the plate with 1 shim then it should be enough right?
If you do not shim the armature plate over .004" then your injectors wont last as long as new injectors that come with '004" clearances and if you do not add solenoid shims the armature will hit the solenoid and throw a code ,take my word for it. BOB
If the injector was .004" when new and when you only shim to .002" then you they will only last one third as long as new. Injectors stop working cold at .001". See truck rental on ebay for shim kit with solenoid shims and do it the right. WHY not shim over '.004" and have them last like new.
@@truckrental9694 Thanks for your input! Quick question, if a new injector spec is .004" then rebuilding it to a .004" spec should not require the solenoid to be shimmed, as that is the factory spec?
George, By shimming the poppet valve to its preferred spec - you are actually shimming the poppet plate distance between the magnet. As the poppet valve sink downwards to upper injector body the distance between the poppet plate and the magnet are getting to big. Therefore - by shimming the plate 4 thou. /distance between the plate and upper injector body) with the magnet distance set by the thickness of the aluminum spacer - you are right on the money. So - by adding shims between the magnet and this alu spacer - you are backing the magnet further away from the poppet plate and the distance will cause problems. I have done this for years and have not seen the value nor the need of shimming/lifting the magnet further from the factory set distance. Video of how too shim the poppet on a 7.3PSD injector: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-c-LdjY5D3fc.html Let me put it this way: There are no need of spacers beteewn the magnet and the alu frame/poppet plate. Please get back to me - as I have customers cars running out there with based upon what I see here - injectors that are not shimmed the proper way. Regards, Helge
I see he never got back to you, but you are absolutely correct. The only part that "moved" and went out of tolerance is the poppet plate. The magnet cannot move. No need to shim the magnet/solenoid unless you shim ABOVE .004 on the poppet plate, and that is not where you want to be on that plate. Factory setting was .004, so that is what we are shooting for when shimming the poppet plate.
New injectors have armature clearance around .004" from the factory. When the clearance falls below .002" we start to see cold start issues from the oil not draining when cold. Since it's a used injector we only want to remove the issue with the least amount of intervention.
George (or anyone else who knows) - I notice your nozzle/tip came out BLACK and covered in carbon. It was looking pretty shiny when you re-installed it. When cleaning the nozzle/tip - Do you simply ultrasonic the nozzle itself? Or do you wire wheel it? (or simply scotch-brite it?)
@@Michael-me4pe Thanks - Yes - I did catch that later when I re-watched the other video. I wound up doing the same - and sprayed brake cleaner through the nozzles to make sure they were clear and had a good flow through the holes and into the cylinder.
I wish someone would have made a video this good before I started doing my own, good job bud, BUT it is NOT RIGHT, I guaranty you that injector has an internal oil leak, it might not affect the performance all that much, but it is not 100 percent, then again it could not fire at all, you just don't know with out bench testing it. I am not trying to critize, but just help.
You put the hold down on backwards. Does it not matter? I just pulled out the injector I finished and swapped the hold down. Judging by all the happy comments here I'm assuming people had success either way.
