I love how every one of these videos detailing American car products has the obligatory electric guitar music, watched a shop install a bolt in roll bar into a 12 mustang, same type of music
Very helpful! I sometimes wish I had opted for an RHS block vs. an overkill billet Noonan Race block. The RHS is undoubtedly strong enough and easier to fit-up. Heck, even easier than a DART NEXT 2.
@@swappedoutZ71 Yes, it is 502 ci. Going that big in an aluminum block, you don't want to boost it. If you're going to boost it, there is no need to go that big anyway.
@@swappedoutZ71 My boosted motor was built 7.0 in a (steel) LSX block. It's pretty trivial to get 1500 HP with a forged LSX. This RHS block is more for max NA builds. If you're going to boost the RHS, definitely don't take the bore past 4.125. But you'd be better off (and cheaper) with an LSX block for boost.
@@yzScott I'm not looking to run 30psi or anything crazy. The boost is honestly just for the cool/boss factor. Probably run it on like 6psi. But the added blower whine or turbo whistle is what I want. It would have a way different setup than what I'd use for all motor 502 build lol that's for sure. Much lower compression and a lazier cam. The boost would be to make power without going "max effort" while utilizing the cubes for massive tq production that's needed for a fun daily driver. Like an easygoing 700hp build but tq would probably be over 800. Max effort na 502 would be different, I'd try to squeeze out 850hp and it would probably make 650-700 tq with a higher recline than the boost motor, entirely different solid cam setup etc.
It's not one of the best it is THE BEST!! mines a 502...scary power. Who needs boost when you make close to 800hp and 774ftq in a street car that only weights 2800 pounds and you can spray it at the strip....
8) When go big (502ci), you need a billet crank. That'll blow up your build budget. 9) Most of the factory accessory brackets will require grinding to fit the beefier webbing and gussets on the outside of this block 10) The under-piston oil squirter make this an especially good motor to add crankcase vacuum too. And the tall-deck block will fit in a Z06 with short motor mounts... barely.
I did not know about the doweled main caps, or the bay-to-bay breathing ports. Right now I'm investing in an ERL block. I contacted RHS about their block twice, but never received answers. If I had my questions answered, I might have purchased a block from them.
Siameased cylinders = uneven cooling since water-jackets are in contact with a much reduced area of the cylinders, especially the inside cylinders which are close to only half water-jacketed. Hot spots = warped cylinders = ring blow-by. Don't know how they get away with this; maybe the steel liners are made special to compensate ?
Three Things. First they say they have cast bore walls. Meaning these are not truly siamese, i'm guessing in large part to deal with heat issues. Also, aluminum alloy blocks really changed issues with siamese bores, as it moves heat so much more effectively, and largely the belief that siamese cylinders cause problems is a myth from 400 chevys, where OTHER issues caused the problem that got blamed on siamese bores.
RHS should do like Lexus and fill the casting of the aluminum block under vacuum versus pouring to eliminate the possibility air bubbles. This process would not only produce a better product for the customer but also save time and money. No need to scan the block for voids and cracks
Nice vid. I'm not an LS expert but I find there isn't much block material between adjacent cylinders (ie: 3:00 mark)...Is there any danger of warping there? thx.
The cylinder liners are ductile iron and are very strong. There isn't much danger of warping. Boosted builds can safely go down to .200-inch cylinder wall thickness on the thrust side without any problems. Even at maximum recommended bore on one of these RHS blocks, you would still have adequate cylinder wall thickness to avoid any possible warping as the cylinder wall would still be well above .200 inch. The biggest concern is with cooling and cracking the cylinder walls when they are below .200 inch--especially when it is a tall deck motor. The taller the cylinder, the more rigid it has to be to prevent cracking and thus the more cylinder wall thickness should be use. However, there is nothing to worry about with the RHS tall deck even at its maximum bore size. They may look thin, but they are well within tolerance.
Thanks for taking the time to clear that up for me =) BTW how do they get the cyl liners in there, are they cooled first and then inserted? Can they ever be pulled out again and how? The engineering behind this block is truly astounding
Randall Wyatt oh fuck off steal from gm, know anything about skilled workers or trades people? If it wasn't for the oems the mighty gm flexi block small block would have had a different history rocker arm (pressed in stud 🤣 pulling cam wearing is 60000 miles cheaply made POORLY machined. But thanks to the bs ubiquity the machinists and hot rodders the well designed (by a german) cheaply and poorly put tobether engines became very food. Companies dont have integrity and gm "stole" fro the jessel bros etc. By letting undeveloped garbage be developed. The aftermarket is where performance comes from so we can all pound our chests for our bow tie bandage buggy or whatever go wwe
@@petepependoski7708 Pontic was Dominant in the late '50's and early '60's they went straight to aftermarket venders for cams and intakes then put Pontiac part numbers on them .. Then Gm pulled out of racing and Ford was dominant for a while .. Why did GM pull out of racing they had 53% of Domestic cars sales and JFK wanted to break GM up .. they had heavy truck engines heavy Excavating equipment and majority of Locomotive engine market .. The Government should stay out of Private business picking winners and losers by Obama picking who he will loan billions to and never get paid back .. GM has financial problems now .. some one commented that GM is a Pension CO that happens to make a few cars.. This Block sounds great but I don't even dare ask the price .. for me it seems just buying a whole complete LS-7 is about the only thing I can afford.. the Junk yards want too close to new price for their messes.. I need Trans clutch bell housing and accessories just the engine bolted to the trans with computer is $18,000 still need dry sump accessories .. headers motor mounts ect ..
Yeah and 100 lbs heavier. Guys do this and add another 100 lbs with bigger transmissions as well so when I'm at the track I always feel like the other guy next to me has to drag my fat x wife along with him. lol.
