I agree with you Wes ain't nothing wrong with anything you've done that tractor will still be fun and I really really appreciate the video of you working on it and you posted more often thank you
I was talking with a retired mechanic that said 3020 and 4020 diesel tractors should run straight 30w. The problem is 30w from the 1960s is a lot different than what we have available now.
We ran torque guard 30w for years, from 2004-2018 at least, no idea when we started using it aside from it was what we had on hand when I needed it before I had my liscense and what I bought myself until we decided one day to switch to 15w-40 from Deere.
Good job Wes on the oil change. I did not know you could blend the 2 oils . See that's why I love watching your channel you learn stuff and that is awesome. Thanks for sharing buddy 👍
Wes I have been sick today and been watching you all day to catch myself up since I haven’t been watching lately. Thanks for being knowledgeable about this stuff I learn a lot from you.
For the oil blend doubters: you can buy new synthetic blend oils at any parts house. Key on the words "synthetic blend". Good job Wes: some folks are not so prudent when it comes to maintenance on tractors.
@@Adam-bw4lw yea the heavy industry probably doesn’t use the process as much. The 2L engines I deal with all day you just use their test plan in the diagnostic program to record the oil pressure was ok while cranking before putting fuel to it. Then plug injectors back in and send it.
I had a 8330 that I couldn’t find where it was leaking, thought it was the front main oil seal replaced it and the leak didn’t go away ended up being oil pan gasket, over 8,000 later no more oil leak. Leak started around 6500 hours.
I've always been taught to empty the oil completely no matter what it was. Just to ensure if there is any metal fragments that they drain out causing less wear if they get past the filter. And I only use Napa WIX on everything.
You gotta read the dipstick. Some say tighten on threads . Some don't. We had that issue with a johndeere riding mower . They say to check it with the dip stick off the treads . The dealer argued with me about that .
Wes, buy a gallon of motorkote and put it in the oldest roughest running engine you have. Found it at the Farm Show one year. now every tractor, car, truck and gearbox on the farm has it in it!
Sample your oil after "blending" it for the winter and you will see its not a myth. Youre better off just running a 10w40 semi synthetic, oil doesnt blend in a sump, it will separate. Not to mention 15w40 and 5w30 full synthetic break down very differently, i would bet lunch youll have high iron and high copper content in an oil sample after blending your oil.
Sometimes refilling a fuel filter helps for a faster starting, in some ways. At most if there is no primary electric or handpump, to fill the fuel system. In some ocassions ive seen, it is mechanical pump from the cam, or crank, and this is very slow. You need a very long last batteries, because there's no way to fill up fuel system. But there is the way, with mechanical injectors. Loosen off all of the cylinders, crank, while shows up a diesel, the one by one tighten. Commin rail dosent work like that, but there are the ways
New Corvettes come from the factory with Mobil 1 full synthetic engine oil. Been this way since 1993. Doubt GM would do that, if it was going to lead to engine issues later on that they may need to fix, potentially under warranty.
@@billupstateny9151 Wes was talking about the idea that full synthetic oil, if used when the engine is new or completely overhauled, won’t let the rings wear in, or seat. If this is true, I wouldn’t think GM would use it in their engines in every brand new Corvette.
@@45Deere9500 Have owned multiple new vehicles w/ either factory synthetic or immediately converted upon delivery. Some approached 200K miles, no issue.
@@billupstateny9151 Great! I have no doubt you’ve experienced no issues. Your personal experience helps prove the idea that an engine needs conventional oil in order to “break in,” or “wear in,” is pure bunk. That’s what Wes was alluding to, the idea that motors need to wear a little bit with conventional oil, before switching to full synthetic.
Wes just a note all oils for years have been synthetic blend. All oil is synthetic or synthetic blend. I know this for a fact working around the oil producers.
You are correct Mr. Nicholson! All engine oils are synthetic because the additve packages are synthetic products regardless of what base oils are used!
The only thing I’ve read about switching from regular oil to synthetic is that synthetic is finer and may leak more that regular oil. Back when people started using more synthetic oils they did say not to mix. Personally I a,ways thought it was a marketing gimmick.
Oh yeah Wes. There in north-east europe half year ago started the dumb waste oil wave in diesel cars. Welll.... while there are quiteheavy amiunt of older generation diesels, like vw group, up to 2003 or 2005 with bosch mechanical injection pumps just eletronic pump control, for these older diesels, "fill what you want, it swallows with all the frogs". The tractors too, when they are oldschool, with mechanical injection, then yes. They can swallow the "frogs" and waste oil. But even the waste oil is not the so good fuel for tractor or a car. At this point Wes you ar 100% wright
Wesley you are correct I used to work building engines the synthetic Motor Oil does not hurt a brand new engine the only thing that comes into play is the synthetics that have Molly or graphite in them. If it's a new factory engine and that has been bored and honed with torque plates you're not counting on the rings to wear in and seat themselves. If you're a home mechanic and you count on the rings doing the final seating by wearing in this is where the Moli and graphite additives can retard this process. So yes in essence your 100 percent correct synthetics can be run in a brand new engin.
I just put oil my lawmover . And its just working ok. Normal situationis, i dont have nothing else but waste oil, and its kind alike that. stuff. if i dont put wasteoil its start suond strange an stop running... It mus be god stuff :P
2 fuel filters, engine oil filter, 15w 40, hydraulic filter, replace the hydraulic oil at 1000 hrs for my 135 hp massey ...750 dollars.🤷♂️....people say its snake oil but I run amsoil from time to time....almost to expensive, but when you drain that oil at 10000 miles in the truck or a few hundred in the tractor it still feels "slippery". My truck runs much cooler with it as well.
have you ever used an engine oil additive like moly oil? i was introduced to it when i was over on a custom harvesting crew we out it in all the kit, then when i returned home i put some in my old high mileage diesel car and it seem the engine ran smoother
Warren has eight locations where they blend lubricants around the US. However, they do not make base oil or additives. They have improved their operations in the last 10 years and do produce good quality products.
Referred to in the industry as oil aeration not windage. Not a concern in your tractor engine. You could fill it 2 quarts over and be OK. Your Diesel engine rpm is low enough it doesn’t introduce much aeration. The first component that gets effective by aeration is hydraulic lifters which you don’t have. I have performed oil aeration testing for all manufacturers including John Deere. Oil Aeration is more of a concern in automotive engines.
@@onelonleyfarmer The power loss on your motor would be so minimal you couldn’t even measure it on a dyno. The only way you get real power loss from oil aeration is in a engine with hydraulic lifters. The aerated oil compresses more and shortens the valve event length and you get real power loss. Also starves the bearings of lubricant.
@@onelonleyfarmer did you have a preferred customer account? If not, let me know and I’ll put you in touch with a dealer is PA that will get you signed up. He’s been with Amsoil for a long time.
@@workonitm8 As oil heats up, it gets thiner from heat. Oil will never, and has never gotten thicker, or a higher viscosity with heat. A simple internet search of "Temperature dependence of viscosity" will show just that. Lots of people think a 5w30 oil is thin when cold, and as it heats up it turns to 30 weight oil, thicker, higher viscosity but it does not. If you want to try a simple test, put a 5w30 in the freezer and see how thick it is when you take it out. 5w30 at -10f is a 3600 viscosity, just like honey. As it heats up, it turns into 5 weight viscosity in a running engine. Room temp, 68f that 5w30 will be 30 weight oil. Strange facts for the day, that can all be found on the web.
@@thomasleonard1846 All good. Lots of people get the viscosity of oils mixed up. Oil gets thiner with heat, always will, always has. Oil will never get thicker, higher viscosity with heat.
