A Bunch of Ways to Finish Raw Edges of Fabric 

This is a really good tip and thing to consider indeed. Thanks for sharing and elaborating on this point in the comments here.

Consider me impressed doing it all by hand. Good on you and thanks for sharing 🙏🏻

I am glad to hear that my videos are of use to you!

Oh wonderful, I'm glad to hear it! Thanks for watching and may you master all the finishes you desire :)

I'm glad to hear it. Happy sewing.

What realy helps? An industrial sewing machine with built-in edge trimmer😂 in stage one and presser foot with edge guide for finishing. While mentioned machine is not so common, presser feet is available also for home machine. By this way is possible to produce relatively easy and fast narrow & flat french seams also on delicate fabrics where is not available or suitable to use ironing. (My lovely set is 2mm edge trimmer followed with second operation with 1/8" edge guide on realy thin fabric or 3/16" on little thicker. Used on all silk-like slippery materials, viscose, sometimes thin cotton.)

@MaesRuth that's a great little additional tip. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Thank you for you contributions as well @krabatour

Thank you for adding your knowledge to this video. It's much appreciated.

I'm glad to hear it.

oh wonderful, I'm glad to hear it.

I'm glad to hear it.

I'm glad to hear it. Happy sewing.

I know eh? If only the bound edge wasn't so much work!

Thank you. 🙏🏻

Thanks for watching as well and may you be well too.

I'm glad to hear it!

Well thank you for watching as well!

That's awesome that you're sewing for them. Hopefully they have/gain an appreciation for the craft as well. I'm glad my videos are of use as well.

Thank you, I'm glad you got something out of my content. Indeed, may you master all the finishes. The bound edge is as time consuming as it is beautiful :)

You are kind, thank you :)

The many Corns say thank you in unison. I hope you're well my friend.

I'm glad you appreciate it.

I'm glad to hear it!

Well I really appreciate your support. Happy sewing.

You are generous. Thank you! Happy sewing.

Oh nice, thank you for sharing your technique, I appreciate it! I'll give that a try.

Slowly but steadily, we're getting there :) Thank you for the continued support.

Flat-felled seams with double topstitching were my lovely... so I bought my own feed-of-the-arm machine few yars ago. 😊 Just for fun. So, FFS are realy fast and realy strong (double chainstitch through all layers), the best on non elastic fabrics, for stright or only slightly curved seams. Pants, side seams of shirts, technical sewing. Sewing of sleeves is another application. French seams have a different use, they are not so fast (two operations), not so strong (the seam is held by only one stitch line on the top side of the fabric, the second one only keeps edges inside the rib). But - well made - they are free of puckering, even on curved seams. Also top stitching is not always suitable in all cases. It depends...

I hear you on the sewing machine eating fabrics with a zig-zag! Especially lightweight fabrics. Good on you for still taking the time doing the flat felled seams.

@krabatour That's a fancy machine

That is music to my ears :)

Welcome to Pakistan, I admire Pakistani machine repairmen of all kinds. World is so small, my favorite online professional tailor is of Punjab origine. P.S. How much costs basic sewing machine in your country?

I have full faith you can master all the techniques you need with your machine. Happy sewing.

@@CorneliusQuiring 😚

@@krabatour I had bought before 7 years ago ... manual sewing machine on that time it's price was 10,000

🔝😁I reinvented flat felling once ... 😁🪡

I guess that means it's an intuitive stitch which is good to hear :)

🤠🙏🏻

Oh wonderful, I'm glad there was a little nugget of usefulness in the video :)

indeed :)

Side seams definitelly flat-felled. The bias binding of the pockets inside the pants can be too bulky and annoying, it is better to sew them with the right sides together, flip them to reverse and sew again, something like a wider French seam. Bite the edge a bit before fliping it to get better curves. (Depends on the fabric used, it should be relatively thin.)

Thank you so much for taking time to reply@@krabatour - I'll do the pockets as you suggest. Cheers!

@@pringledingle3180 You're welcome. Then let us know.

Hopefully the pants turn out as you hope!

Interesting correlation!

I am glad to hear that my videos are of use to you. Thanks for watching.

Oh wonderful, I'm glad there was a nugget of good info in there.

(I'm not Mr. Cornelius, but I can try to answer.) Sometimes it is already part of the cut pattern. It is often useful to leave longer the side where there are fewer layers of fabric or less (or more convex) shaping. And there are also established customs on which side the fabric is folded on the surface for appearance or functionality (i.e. pair of jeans).

@TaDarling1 when doing sleeve caps specifically, I think it's best to cut the shoulder side shorter, but I imagine it's up to you depending on what the garment is that you're sewing. @krabatour also brings up some good points.

@@CorneliusQuiring Many thanks. I checked out the points made by @Krabatour and they are indeed very useful. I already own both pinking shears and a rotary cutter with a pinking blade.

@@krabatour Many thanks. Very useful information, including your original tip to use pinking shears. I use a rotary cutter with a pinking blade, and I always get an even cut. Prior to my inquiry, I was assuming that the side that would get trimmed down would be the side facing the back of the garment so that the longer side would fold over towards that back shorter side. However, since I would also be trying to reduce the bulk, it does makes sense to leave the side with fewer layers longer.

I'm glad to hear it.

🤠🙏🏻

A good point. Thanks for bringing it up.

Simple question, complicated answer. I'll wait for the others, then I'll add more for myself. First of all: garment threads are never marked in mm of thickness - you can meet imperial or metric numbers, tex/dtex or so called ticket number. Also, there are more than two main structural groups of threads according to their composition, with different tensile and strength propperties.

It really depends on the type of fabric that's being used. Indeed it's a long a complicated answer but the general rule of thumb I've found is that the heavier the fabric, the thicker the thread should be.

@@CorneliusQuiring thank you

​@@KokanAgriculturegoatfarm .... and realy depends on type of the seam, load on the seam. Not only the weight of the fabric plays a role, but also the density of the fabric. It also depends on the thickest/thinest needle/thread your machine can sew, how strong tension of upper thread you can adjust. And how much visible stitches are allowed. And what kind of functionality you want to obtain. The strength and flexibility of the thread must correspond to the strength and flexibility of the fabric. Too thick thread on thin fabric makes unsightly seams, lockstitch thread crossing does not hide in the fabric and comes out on the surface. Sometimes stitch line doesn't look stright but "spiral" like. All examples I will explain in metric ticket number marking (Tkt. No.) of threads, where small numbers mean a stronger thread. Conversion to tex/dtex or imperial units can be found in any thread manufacturer's company catalog. Commonly: for light to medium fabrics of medium thickness (approx. 100 to approx. 200 g/m2), average load seams -> polyester or cotton thread Tkt. No. 120. For heavier loads, pure polyester threads will work better, or you can choose 120 thread with a corespun construction or a stronger thread, i.e. 80. Tkt. No. 80 or 50 threads are great for top stitching or sewing jackets, st. coats. If you don't want to see the stitch lines, use really short stitches and a thinner needle (#70) and Tkt. No. 140 or even 180 thread. Of course, they are not intended for demanding use. But they are excellent on light and silky fabrics, on underwear... Denim ... aaah. These are medium to high weight materials. As you can see on YT, of course heavier machinery is used. Perfect seams are made with threads #50 to #30 (extreme), you also need a slightly stronger needle (#110 to 125). This is also where problems with weak home machines begin. Upholstery threads begin from Tkt. No. 40 or 30, for threads Tkt. No. 15 and 10 you realy need another machine. Leather sewing threads are even thicker.

But... The overlock rolled hem looks good on women's clothing - edges of skirts, dress sleeves... firm and slightly ruffled adds sometimes just the right look and usability. It doesn't matter if the fabric is knitted or woven. :-)

@jessicaraine8403 Indeed, the beauty of sewing is we don't have to use the seams we don't like :) Happy sewing.

That is another name for it, yes.

noted.

Noted!