How to replace the bearings in your loud A/C motor. Very easy to do and will save you $$$$$ Here is a link to where I get my bearings: www.applied.com/ Also try Amazon with part# 6201-2NSE9C3
I have that exact same welling motor. Your video not only showed me what to do, but also the bearings to order. I prefer to have them before I disassemble the motor. Memory isnt as good as it once was. Thank you.
Thank you for breaking this down. It looks exactly like my Frigidaire model. As for removing the old bearings, mine were quite stuck, and I didn’t have the piece of metal you used to hammer them off. Instead I held the center piece of the armature (wrapped in a cloth) in a stationary vise, then used two screw drivers to pry them off of their initial positions. Scraped my hands a few times in the process. Once there was enough space to fit the bearing, I put that in the vise next and then tapped out the edges of the armature with a rubber mallet. My AC unit is running much more quietly now! Let’s see how long the other parts last.
Thanks for the help. After cleaning out the dirt dobbers that had my Electrolux unit stopped up, I could tell the fan motor bearings were a little rough. You video was helpful knowing what to see/expect once disassembled. Thanks again.
Thanks for showing us the simplicity of the assembly. It's too bad that in all the years I've been repairing AC's, I've had rare motor bearing replacements (40 years Universal EPA certification). Usually the refrigerator fails before the fan motor does. However newer Chinese units don't have the quality. But Welling motors should have held up, but it looks like they too have reduced quality (non-sealed bearings). Thank you for a method of repair and improved component selection.
Had two window A/C units have this problem...a Frigidaire and a Toshiba which both look like they were made by the same manufacturer...front panel was the only difference between them...the bearing seal is a crappy design that lets water get into the outer bearing (condenser side) and cause it to rust...both of these units were less than a year old..when I replaced the bearings, I packed a bunch of grease into the outer bearing plastic cover to help keep water out..I just installed them since it's getting hot..so far so good..
Excellent video! I figured this was exactly what to do but I wanted to check and at least see if other people had any videos of doing it. I'm replacing mine with some high quality Yellow Jacket roller skate bearings to make it as quiet as possible. lol Also using some special nano-tungsten lube on them. ^_^
Definitely planning on getting an HVAC and refrigeration certificate as well as a Freon handling permit so I can pick up old air conditioners that have easy to fix leaks, bad compressors, or bad fan motors off the curb and resell them for a hefty profit, you can buy fan motors, compressors, and even whole coils on eBay for cheap
Well thanks im gonna switch mine too. I was hesitant between zz or 2rs. Because of the supplementary friction. My motor is smaller since it require 2x 608zz bearings those are 22x7x8mm 22 od 8 id 7 width I will go with rs. My a/c didnt like the wash at the end of last year. It was seized during winter even if stored in the house. So never clean them on removal lol clean them on installation and start it and leave it on . But i guess with 2rs bearings water would not have going in. We dont got zz bearings in car only 2rs and if very hot they put orange ones..
I have the same air conditioner and the same exact problem. Can you tell me what sealed bearing to order? That way I can have it shipped before taking it apart. I only have the one air conditioner, I'd like to shorten the down time for repair.
thanks for the video. i initially ordered the wrong bearing from amazon based on the numbers on my original bearings. I seen your video, checked the part number and boom, i was wrong. cancelled my order and reordered the correct size, the reference for your bearings in 2019 might have been a good deal. today they want $22.73 a bearing. too much for me. cross referenced 4 pack PGN 6201-2RS sealed bearings $7.90 with prime shipping.
This is a gem of a video as it shows exactly what I need to do with a motor that's very similar to my own (AC, air-conditioner outdoor fan motor). In particular, the tip about hammering the shaft through at 3:55 is probably the answer to a problem I'm facing - the bearing is tight as *@(#&^ and won't slide beyond about 2/3 way down the shaft. And I'm not confident about heating the bearing. Did you apply any lubricant to the shaft and/or the bearing before installing it?
I've got a Frigidaire with a similar motor, it's riveted together, what would be a good replacement for the rivets? as I'm not going to rivet the motor back together
@@LonnieJohnson1 I saw from the video that this motor appears to be a Welling motor, same motor I have, same problem, it's what sends most units to the curb, yet of people saw how easy of a fix it is, they wouldn't be throwing away so many units
@@LonnieJohnson1 if you can figure out a good system, there's real money to be made, as even a beat to hell old Haier would sell for at least $50 during a heatwave
I would measure the I.D. on the old bearing and then measure the I.D. on the new bearing to see the difference. Does the old bearing slip on and off easily?
Just buttoned up and installed my A/C after replacing the bearings according to you excellent instructions. I used the same replacement bearings you show in the video. Now, the unit runs nice and quiet BUT....the fan stops after about 30 minutes even though the compressor is still runs. WTF? I hope you can provide an explanation/cure. Do you suppose the motor is overheating? Do these motors even have a thermal shutdown? Color me baffled.
@@LonnieJohnson1 The motor shuts off. Compressor keeps going for a few minutes then it shuts off too. If I turn off the power for awhile (~1/2 hour) everything starts and runs fine again...until it doesn't. I checked to make sure I don't have timer on. Very odd.
@@LonnieJohnson1 I connected the ground wire to the motor bracket as it was before disassembly. I would think the motor would be grounded through that and it's physical contact with the bracket. Why would a poor ground cause the observed symptoms? I guess I'm going to have to open it up again unfortunately. Nothing is easy is it?
When they assemble these motors they just put in what would fit. However, skateboard bearings go through a lot of abuse. You can use the numbers from the bearing or take the shaft to a place that sales bearings and let them measure it with a caliper.
I bought my 5000 BTU room AC some fan motor bearings in Burton Auto Supply. They were sealed bearings that were supposedly “made in Japan.”Napa might have some as well. Get the part number written or stamped on the side bearing.
Weird my motor does not come apart the same way it comes apart the opposite way where the cable attaches and i hammered the hell out of the other part and it’s literally stuck there just my luck
@@LonnieJohnson1 no just there is two parts on that motor your part that came off is the part without the wires attached my same motor has yours the part that came off is the part where the wires are so i had to unplug the motor remove the insulation and gently remove the part by passing the cables where they come from anyway i manage to do it thanks for your reply
@4:19 except he didn't truly support the inner race. You should temporary put a washer over the shaft so it only touches against the INNER race when installing otherwise you will put dents into the races from the hammering causing the bearing to fail quickly.
@@LonnieJohnson1 sir, as a professional machinist and fabricator for nearly 20 years, I promise you on this: When installing bearings “support” and “driving” are the same thing, and whether you are applying pressure to the inner race or the outer race depends on if you are press fitting it into a shaft or a into a bore. If you are fitting it onto a shaft, as seen here, then the only race that you want to have force applied to is going to be the inner race. It doesn’t matter if you hold the shaft still and use a tube to drive the inner race down on the shaft, or if you support the inner race on a washer and tap down on the shaft. The friction is between the shaft and the inner race, the inner race is the one that needs to get the force, and the outer race needs to be as free-floating as possible, so that you do not transmit force from one race, through the bearings, to the other. If it is pressed into a bore it is the opposite. Shaft = inner race. Bore = outer race. And maintain clearance so you don’t accidentally put force through the bearing and dent the races.
Also not great @6:40 when installing the clips, it would have been better to pick up the motor and lay the shaft flat against the edge of the bench or a gap in the vise jaws when tapping the clip on so the force through the shaft is supported against something solid, instead of it going through the bearings. Almost certainly not going to be a problem with the clip it was just a tap, but it’s still the same concept and sometimes a tap is all it takes.
I have been dealing with bearings about 45 years now and it's best to press them in if you can, however, if you can't then you need to use something flat that covers the inner and outter bearing and not to hit the bearing unevenly.
@@ShyRage1 it's not GE, per se, Haier bought out their appliance brand, so any Haier made unit would have that same problem, if you're looking for a unit on the cheap, Midea makes some good units, their basic models are easy to service and can last 5 years, which is a good bit longer than most modern units last
@@ShyRage1 They were bought out by Haier in 2015 or so, but they had been struggling and made some god awful stuff in the years preceding the buyout, in the mid 00s they were still good at making most things, though they were passed in quality by Whirlpool with their Fasco fan motors and Embraco compressors
