A Great-looking Silver Finish for only £2?! 

Very useful indeed!

@@ModelMinutes the community you started to create is really nice.

@@thedubstepaddict3675 :D

@@ModelMinutes how do you like by bronze tiger, posted pics in finished builds

@@thedubstepaddict3675 there is literaly a mod on there defending a guy who said F George Floydd and said that the word racist was a cuss

Good to know!

glad i could help!

great tip!

You can even burnish the JUST dry layer(s) between coats with a dedicated polishing rag (a shoe-shine cloth works well , some use a GOOD quality paper towel , folded and a GOOD quality cotton t-shirt cut to just the right size - _new_ works best ) to refine the surface .

Second this Works very well. If you use the same technique as a car sprayer uses. The results will look incredible

Awesome!

Glad I could help

Glad it was helpful!

Glad I could help!

Thanks for sharing!

Thank you!

Glad you like them!

You should definitely have a go! Thanks for subscribing - I've got a build video coming next week

Good stuff!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for sharing

Thanks 👍

:D

True!

Glad you think so!

Yeah, I used it on my RNZAF Mustang

thanks :)

Hello there!

thanks!

read the description

I think it’s brushed on with a £2 brush.

:P

Yes, i nice wide flat brush is one of my go-to tools :)

thanks for sharing!

I totally agree, i'm slowly replacing my humbrol with other makes

haha! It's not quite that quick, but it's growing quicker than normal :)

Yes

Good to know!

Yes, im sure you would! :)

I imagine a polishing compound could help

Yeah, that's probably where I got these, or somewhere similar

Might have to look at getting some of those in the future

@@ModelMinutes if you have a look at my recent video of the McLaren Mp4/4 part 3 I think, the entire bodywork is done in Tamiya TS and it is so smooth.

Thanks for letting me know :)

Glad you think so!

I have been going back in my model building memory, and my dad told me "you don't want spend all that money lad, just get car spray (in any colour) at a fraction of the price. He was a brilliant model maker, why I do it now and follow his lead..... I miss him..

@@andrewnicholson4689 Sounds like you didn't just build models, you made memories too

Oh so many, I don't think I can think of better times in my life, it was difficult, but he never told me off for getting it wrong. He would say "it was my idea, and it looked as should - (for me)up to my arms and jumper sleeves in glue - the old school model glue - fluff, dust an all. I can remember the smell of solvent glue.

@@andrewnicholson4689 sounds great :)

thanks for the info!

That's an interesting idea, might need to try dark blue next time

awesome!

Good luck!

Good metallic finish is not expensive at all. The most expensive thing you need is a compressor. But if you have an airbrush setup it's not a cost at all, you already have it. For the other things you need: 1. An airbrush. Nothing fancy, even the cheapest is good enough. Last time I painted metallic with an airbrush costing less then £10. 2. A good gloss black paint, preferrably lacquer. Tamiya LP-1 (that is their gloss black as I know) or Gunze GX-2 are perfect for the task. The tamiya is 10 ml for £1.9, the Gunze is 18 ml for £2.7. At least where I live. 3. Metallic paint for your taste. The metallic paints are very inexpensive because they need to paint in extemely thin layers. From a 10 ml Tamiya LP-11 Silver (£1.9) you can paint 3-4 full 1/72 scale models. Not B-58 or B-47 of course. But for an F9F Panther sized aircraft you only need maximum 2 ml of paint. For a Mirage III with its huge wingarea you should use almost 4 ml, that is the other end of the spectrum. And the result won't be so gritty like in the video. Rattle cans biggest downside that you have very little control over the paint. And you always ending with thick paint end excessive orangepeel. Especially problematic if you want to paint small things with small details. Maybe not problem for an Airfix kit with its panel trenches, but a Hasegawa, Fujimi or even Hobby Boss kit with its fine surface details it can be devastating. And you can't even polish it down to real smooth. Or if I want to say it right: you can polish it to smooth, but the lost details wont came back by polishing.

@@egyeneskifli7808 ah cool, thank you for the very detailed info, il sure look into that

@@vseglu9754 One more thing: for Alclad 2 or MRP the size of the nozzle doesn't really matters. You can spray those fine even with 0.15 mm nozzle. The only thing the diameter affects is the spraying cone angle. For bigger surfaces you may use bigger nozzle, but needs much more disciplined needle adjustment. With fulliy retracted needle you will empty the cup very fast. But I don't think you should use 0.4 mm or bigger nozzle with these paints. 0.2 mm is the optimal in my opinion. For Tamiya LP you better off to use a 0.3 mm nozzle.

I have got a B17, but i've not even done an unboxing on that yet

I aimed this video at absolute beginners who might not have access to those products when they start out. As skills and money improves i'm sure many would love to get some of those better quality paints and products, I know I will probably look at getting some in the future

I wonder if the Tamiya spray heads would fit the cheaper Halfords/Supercheap/Autozone paint cans if that’s the case? I imagine they would, but it then depends on the fineness of the pigment in the actual paint.

It's a good suggestion - I sometimes do this with my smaller pots of paint too :D

:/

Thick metallic paints? Then you use the worst metallis paints possible. MRP metallics are exquisite paints and you can spray them at 6-8 PSI right out from the bottle. Alclad 2 paints need almost the same treatment. Tamiya lacquers need some 13-15 PSI if you thin them 1:1, or 9-11 PSI if you thin them 1:2. No flakes or anything like that.

Alclad make some really good metalics that airbrush nicely.

you can either use water, or something specific like tamiya x20-a thinners. It should be about half the thickness but really depends on the paint

Most spray cans say to use them in warm conditions. The one I had said to use it at "room temperature" which is going to be hard to do if working outside or in a garage. Popping it on a radiator that is warm (not hot -just like i mentioned in the video) is going to help ensure that the paint is suitably fluid. I would never suggest aggressively heating or exposing the paint to direct heat as it is flamable, but a warm radiator shouldn't do any harm

probably duration. Distance can cause the paint to dry in the air and then leave a textured finish when it hits the plastic

:D

I only did it on the sprue for demonstration, you can paint the built model if you prefer. Check out my 1/48 Academy Mirage build for an example

@@ModelMinutes thanks :)

It doesn't specifically say on the can which kind of paint it is, but i have a feeling it's not acrylic. Provided all previous layers of paint, acrylic on enamel and enamel on acrylic should be fine

@@ModelMinutes Thank you. Best of luck.

Interesting!

at this price though, I don't really think that's a problem

he says it is a spray paint in the description

@@HODCHANNEL Well, don't I feel particularly silly now for wrongfully assuming that the "show more" was as pointless as usual for non-music YT videos... In that case, then, I'm EXTREMELY curious what spray paint he found for 2 quid, because at least in Ireland you can't get even a 150ml can nearly as cheaply

@@bk109 www.sprayster.com/product/1-x-400ml-all-purpose-silver-metallic-aerosol-spray-paint-household-car-plastic/?gclid=CjwKCAiAxp-ABhALEiwAXm6IyX2x25C-blk-XGM_KJOpDApzkb5GtOfhW7YPA4WBo0e05IzaCjyhCBoCkSoQAvD_BwE there you go, more value-for-money

haha :P

You can if you want, the silver won't be quite as vibrant though

I have built a Revell spitifre in 1/48 - build video on my channel

:)

I just present ideas, I'm not telling anyone how they should be building their models

@@ModelMinutes Sorry, it's not meant to be an attack on you , or as a lecturing. Just saying that these paints can be very unforgiving when it comes to plastic models.

@@rogueplastic no, I know that, never took it personally. All i'm saying is that people can decide which method they use, and if they read the comments they might choose something else, so it's all helpful

151 is a cheap brand here in the uk, I don’t think it really matters what brand you use as long as you are happy with the finish at the end

@@ModelMinutes Thanks man. I decided on buying the Tamiya spray paint. I’m trying to do the 1:144 scale F-86C.

@@KidWithAGun sounds good

Yes, normally I don't paint on the sprue, this was just a demonstration on how to use the paint

So true!

Ah, i guess i wasnt completely clear. I said "as it's on it's way to being dry it's time to prepare the next paint" - thats meant to mean that whilst the paint is drying i'm getting the next can warmed and mixed, ready to be used when the gloss is completely dry

@@ModelMinutes ah ok! That does make sense and what I expected but seemed you may have some inside trick. The warming it up is tricky enough though! Thanks for the replay, love the videos.

Thanks for your thoughts 😊

Also the presentation of this is almost royal compared to how I do it. I just skew the model on a stick, stand outside the front door and spray it. Make sure the windows are shut or you aren't downwind otherwise the house will be filled with vapours lol

noice :)

nice!

sometimes, there are metallic art sprays in the stationary section, those are not the ones you want to use. Usually, these paints are found in the automotive/home area

@@ModelMinutes that’s where I got mine, the automotive section. Even has a picture of a car on it. All I’m saying is check long term compatibility before committing on a nice model. The best rattle can paint you’ll find comes from Halfords, it’s as good as Tamiya’s. Only downside for military modellers being Halfords is all gloss finish and mostly metallics but a light application dusted on will dry fairly matt. Or use a flat clear lacquer over the top.

@@CycolacFan sounds like you got unlucky with that paint. I agree though, it's always a good idea to test the paint before you use it on a model - which is why I know that the particular paint I used here works fine (i've used it on my mirage and x-wing previously)

the shine of the gloss helps to accentuate the silver. A matt colour would result in a dull silver

:)

I’m not sure I understand the question? Can’t you airbrush more paint on top? If that’s the question, yes you can

@@ModelMinutes Indeed It was my question, thanks alot Matt, planning on extensively applying the method.

I thought so too 😊

poundland, poundstretcher . . . that kind of place amongst others

Much appreciated. Ill have a look, I usually only get as far as batteries and crisps in those shops 🤣 I’m working on the revell dambuster at the moment so hoping I can find some Matt black without paying for halfrauds paint

not always easily available

Sounds interesting, can't say i'm familiar with that kind of product

hmm, maybe you should use a different kind . . .

Maybe I'm wrong, but I've been said similar things about rattlecan primers, and the cause was that it had too much pigment in them.

Thanks for the info

:)

nope

@@ModelMinutes ooh b17

Give me a clue is it American

@@georgefell6311 yes

@@ModelMinutes is it a wildcat

little bit more expensive and not as easily available

@@ModelMinutes well yeah that is true 😂

On picture aren't parts from B17 for sure. I think this are parts of wings belonging to Grummans wildcat.

@@slowioczek Probably right....

That's the Airfix F4F Wildcat (or Martlett) - the gun arrangement is a good giveaway that it's the F4F, as for the Airfix part - MM does more than his fair share of those, so a quick lookup at Scalemates for a instruction guide shows that there's indeed a 1/72 kit with a wing panel as part C5 ... Yes, in fact I'm this bored (waiting for a coat of Vallejo satin varnish to dry on a Tu-144D, so ... yeah, I am boooooored :D )

@@bk109 i think everybody is bored. Ive ordered an ICM do17z-10 from e-models two weeks ago and as far as im aware it isnt even in the mail yet

@@HODCHANNEL They're probably working through their backlog of holiday shopping (and probably also the disrupted supply lines). Could be worse, lol, at least (as far as you know) your order didn't burn down like my Eduards :(

Nope, I just thought it would be wise to mention it though

@@ModelMinutes sorry i am not over the age of 18, will I be sent to the Gulags?

@@HODCHANNEL Ah yes a gulag my friend Comrade Cheems is from Russia and was a guard at one

ha!