Great video! I always do a proper warm-up (and get loads of weird stares at the gym). I like to do 5 mins of cardio and/or some light core to get the blood flowing. Then some mobility work - arm swings, dynamic stretches - and then shoulder work. Finally finger warm-up before (and during) easy climbing. Now I'll be doing these exercises for my shoulders every time.
I'm a beginner climber and have already developed some shoulder pain and your channel is so helpful! I was worried I was just not cut out for climbing but I think following your advice on stretching and warm ups in this and other videos will help me improve! Thank you!
Welcome to climbing but sorry to hear of the shoulder pain! Definitely keep watching and learning, we have lots of videos on the shoulders! I'm certain if you implement some of the strengthening you can climb without pain, but if it continues I would advise seeking out professional advice :)
I’m all about the warm up, my friends who get injured the most in the gym walk into the gym and start working immediately on hard climbs, get burnt out too fast, take their fingers because they’re in pain, and end up having a bad session. These tips are crucial for every climbers longevity as well as getting the most out of their sessions. Thanks for the time you put into these videos, they’re extremely important!
Yeah that's always a sad one. The stoke if climbing (and sometimes just having limited time) can cause mistakes such as you mentioned. Glad the videos help and you're taking care of yourself though!
I did this and then immediately dislocated my shoulder on a dyno. Unrelated though I had a prior shoulder injury. External rotation exercises are great
In the bloopers you say, “Should I just like keep this [theraband] in my back pocket?” Does that mean you don’t actually keep one in your pocket in case you need to warm up at a moment’s notice????
Sadly no. Sometimes it's in my shoe, sometimes I wear it as a scarf (when it's cold out of course) and other times I use it as a belt. So no, it's not always in my pocket :/
I just started climbing a month ago and this channel has been so helpful! Thank you!!! I am trying to get down and dirty into the science so that I understand why you’re telling me to do all this shit, but in the meantime it’s good to have a DPT to trust while just starting out on my journey of health and knowledge. I have just one request: footage of you climbing! Can you do V9? V12? Or are you all sciencey doctor talk and can barely send a V4 like me? ;)
Thanks, glad it has been helpful! There's occasionally a clip of one of us climbing in the videos :). We don't spend a lot of time filming ourselves climbing outdoors, though. When Jason somehow manages to climb in between working full time as a PT and making these videos I believe he's usually working anywhere in the V6-V9 range. -Emile
@@HoopersBeta Hi Emile! I should have mentioned you too! Thanks for your work making it all look so crisp and professional! I don't understand why this channel doesn't have 10x more subscribers. I'm certainly spreading the word! Keep up the good work! But just my two cents about your branding... it is not ideal IMO. A shirt that says "Train climb send repeat" doesn't tell people that I'm supporting your work. They'll just think that I'm telling them to train, climb send and repeat, which feels a bit obnoxious to me. Now if you add Jason's goofy smile to it with a big thumbs up? I'm buying it in three different colors today ;).Even if you don't change it though, I'm on the verge of buying at least one haha.
Thank you for this! I've been doing my own mostly made up shoulder warmup for a while now. Would you mind commenting on it if I send you a link to a video showing the exercises? I've always wondered if what I'm doing is good or could be better.
Hey Hooper - this was really awesome! I do have a major favor to ask: do you have a video or any advice on someone struggling with a minor SLAP tear? I want to continue to rehab and do what little I can...but also have no clue where to begin. Thanks for any insight you have - love the channel!
I would say that a specific training plan would be helpful! But, in general, strength training starting below shoulder height and then slowly over time building up into more challenging positions would help! Sorry to hear of your injury though! Hoping you recover and can continue to climb safely!
Before I fall my form breaks down as I no longer have the strength or time to be totally deliberate. The bulk of the miles will be done using this form however id like to also train the bad frantic form that always I encounter about 10% from the fall. Also I've seen a ton of great climbers warmup by spinning one arm at a time around like an airplane propeller, I've yet to see anyone recommend this however I constantly see it done right before first contact with the wall.
For some reason, I have some pain in the front of my shoulder when doing the first exercicie to warm our scapula with palms up. Tbh, after some V5 even a heavy bag make my shoulder hurts...
Try a few variations: maybe don't rotate out as far or try with the thumbs up. Or it may just be a sign that your external rotators are a little weak and they would benefit from this type of training for long term health of your shoulders.
Sorry to hear that! Clicking and hurt would be slightly more concerning, yes, but that depends on many factors (for one, if it's because you're not warmed up beforehand then it's not as big of an issue). Nonetheless, shoulders are extremely important for climbers and merit professional review if you're having pain/issues.