Nah. Correct communication matters, especially when talking about anatomy/physiology. And if you need help (med, PT) it’s good to know exactly what you’re asking for. (Is there a link for the “How to Fix…” vid?) Good stuff. Great balance between climbing, the body, and comic relief. Thanks!
Hooper I have been dealing with scapular winging for a long time now and I'm working with a PT already and a physiatrist to figure out the issue. That being said I really appreciate this video! It gives me more context on what's going on and also yes I would really like to see a scapular recovery specific video. These videos are super helpful for not only my climbing but for everyday activity. Thank you!
Just discovered this channel from looking up climber's elbow. All the videos are comical, informative, and dives into issues that not a lot of other climber youtubers think of. Hands down best RU-vid channel about rock climbing.
Thank you very much for this brilliant and informative video. I just started climbing (indoor bouldering), and I injured my left shoulder pretty badly the first time, and had to put the climbing on hold for a month. In the meantime, I've been doing a lot of shoulder exercises, and even though coming back to climbing is very scary, this video is comforting. I know for a fact that my shoulders are very assymetrical, but now I also feel more confident that it won't make it impossible for me to climb, if I take the right precautions. I've been climbing 3 more times since then, and I feel like it's getting better!
As a kid I used to dance and distinctly remember a girl in my class with scapula that jutted out all over the place, even when she wasn't dancing. Now I know why! Great video, looking forward to the next on how to fix SD.
Great video. I find that I have no shoulder discomfort however, I can very easily move my scapula to stick outwards. They can protrude out of my back like horns, or "wings". I can even stick my hand in behind the scapula that's sticking out and then close it again. it's not particularly discomforting but should I be worried I can move them about that much?
I swear to god you are following me. How do you always come out with a video about the injury I have at exactly as it develops? This is like the 6th time this has happened.
As much as I want to make a fun joke / pun about this.... I'm also sad that it means you have had like 6 different injuries! But, hopefully all the vids have been helpful and you're able to recover / keep climbing!
How I feel about the terms being used interchangeably: Is it fine for people generally to say any scapular dyskinesia is winging? Yeah probably. Anyone who's going to recommend any fixes should* be smart to actually examine them first anyway, and they'll be able to spot the difference pretty quickly. Maybe those people, the coaches/PTs/helpful gymbro friends, should be more careful with their terminology, but I think that tends to come with the territory naturally. Way back in college we called it scapular winging if the entirety of the medial border of the scapula was visibly protruding posteriorly, being careful not to confuse it with the probably more common anterior scapular tilt, because the causes and treatment were usually very different. Winging, to us, was more indicative of weakness in the sagittal plane whereas the significantly more common anterior scapular tilt was more complex but usually most relevant for being unable to raise the arms completely overhead without spinal substitution patterns. Basically too many people were seeing/feeling their inferior angle jut out while moving their arms around, googling scapular winging, and finding out that pushups was the cure. This made tight pecs, scapular elevators, and GH internal rotators even worse, when really all they needed was some facepulls, pullaparts, or nomoneys and some pec minor mobility. But that was a while ago, I haven't kept up with things, and I was never that great at all that stuff anyway, so I'm more curious what your take is.
Well said on so many components! I especially liked the "Basically too many people were seeing/feeling their inferior angle jut out while moving their arms around, googling scapular winging, and finding out that pushups was the cure. This made tight pecs, scapular elevators, and GH internal rotators even worse, when really all they needed was some facepulls, pullaparts, or nomoneys and some pec minor mobility." It's a good example of how the misuse of the term can be detrimental... but also a good example of how dr. google isn't always the best medical option :) Thanks for commenting / sharing!
How reliable is visual observation of SHR? Also, is scapular diskinesis a risk factor for pain/injury, or are you mainly talking about performance here?
Shattered humorous got a rod and screws holding it together. Tore labrum and had shoulder shortened up with reattach rotator cuff to stop the dislocation prior to injury. 4 years later chiropractor says second rib keeps going out. Gets worse every time seems like.
Great video! Would you say we should avoid lifting heavy while in the process of fixing it? I have a few compensations while lifting, even though I try to perform the exercises correctly. I wonder if lifting is holding the progress on my scapula
It depends. If the weights are causing you to compensate, then yes, you have likely progressed too quickly and are getting the compensations as a means to accomplish the goal of lifting the weight by any means necessary. If the two are unrelated then you don't need to lower the weight if you haven't been having pain.
I had spinal fusion for scoliosis about five years ago and have dealt with scapular winging since I was pretty young. I started climbing about a year and a half ago an have been trying to focus on strengthening my shoulders a lot during the process. My range of motion isn’t affected at all and I don’t really have any pain, my shoulder blade just wings all the time. Is this something to worry about? For context I’ve been progressing through the grades fairly quickly (V2-V8 in 18 months) and I’m concerned about injury in the future
If the issue isn't worsening and you're able to do moves with control and no pain that's a good sign! It depends, I suppose, on if you're doing the appropriate exercises or not to help specifically with the cause of your issue. If so then you should be able to still make progress! It may still be a good idea to reach out to a professional for an evaluation if you are concerned.
When you fix scapula dyskinesis, is your shoulder position after that also lower? Trying to fix my posture but it takes longer than expected and is much more painful. And I prefer scapular winging, feels better in your mouth. Unfortunately I'm not the person to choose names for thing like this😂
They’re in the show notes on our website (that’s where we post all our notes). Here’s the link: www.hoopersbeta.com/library/should-you-be-worried-about-scapular-winging-climber-dyskinesis-demystified 🙂
really disappointed, how can I compare scapular winging vs scapular dyskinesia if I can't see dude's ass?! Consitency people, consistency!! 😂 Thank you so much for your informative videos 💪