NEVER EVER straighten a hydraulic ram! Some are case hardened. They can shatter into a thousand pieces! Ask my Uncle who like to lost his hand trying to straighten one in a press. IT Exploded!
i am glad for your concern. I believe it to be genuine, i considered the hazard and tried to mitigate the risk by using a 6 foot bar and position myself perpendicular to the pressure. I was on a job one time and a guy I was walking with tripped on the sidewalk and broke his elbow. Despite this tragedy I still walk on the sidewalk. I am in agreement with you and your uncle about the hazard and I am very glad for your comment. I do however respectfully disagree with the idea that the task should not be attempted.
I had a JD 400 back in the day with a similar problem. I turned the piston up the other way with the bend on the underside then slid in a solid mild steel bar piece and pushed the stabiliser down under its own pressure and it straightened out beautifully. I must admit that the bend was more in the middle of the piston. Great video by the way. Cheers from Perth Australia.
We had a boom cylinder bend on a small rental backhoe once. My brother was able to straighten it out by using wooden blocking under the ram while extending it out. As it extended, it gets closer to the boom and puts considerable force on it. You might be able to do something similar if you turned the belly of the bend down and place the block of wood/shims between the cylinder and the leg. As you extend it out it will pinch the wood and straighten the rod. You can get much more force than the jack that way, especially now since you are just creeping up on last 1/4". My brother was the genius behind that tip, but I saw it work lol. Good luck
My compliments to the chef. You cooked up a very creative fix. I thought the chains would stretch before the shaft moved but I was wrong. There were a lot of things that could have gone really bad, but you obviously knew just how far to push it. BTW, over time oil is bio degradable in the top soil. Let the enzymes do their thing.
This is a particularly good video in my opinion. It demonstrates how something seemingly out of reach can be corrected with a small amount of common sense. Great job brother...
I used to operate a 580G here in the uk for years in fact i snapped a ram on 580K, the eye on the end of the ram came off and when you looked at it the end of the ram it was like an aero bar, full of holes with only a plain weld around the outside, been like that since it was new .
Nice job! Making due with what you have!! Steel has a memory, we used to straighten bars in the shop ,we would put them under stress and leave them. It would work sometimes. To bad you don't have a machine shop that your friends with.
Hey Mike, really enjoying your videos but could you leave off the music. I would have rather heard the engine than loud music. Not trying to be a jerk just hate having to mute then try to catch it when the music is over to turn sound back on.
I am glad to hear from you. I will try to make sure the music is low so you dont have too adjust the volume. for me that is the hardest thing trying to get the sound right. I may play aroung with no music, but I like at least a small amount.
Hi Mike .. Backhoe is getting there ,love watching it come back to life.. Perhaps if you move the chains out wider ,,you may get a little more leverage on the ram , enough to do the rest of the bend . Even a little heat might do it . The motor still sounds a bit rough ,, if there isn't alternative injector that can be used ,,why not get one ,,and move it round till you find the rough one . Well ,,your almost ready for a lick of paint ,,good as new . Respect from DOWN UNDER
As someone else suggested you could have extended the ram of the Jack with a spacer to give it a bit more reach, having said that keep up the good work bringing this backhoe back when its previous owner had written it off
Hey mike, I think if you would have sharply rapped the rod while the jack was stressed to it's limit I think you would have made straight. Reason: When an aircraft propeller strikes the ground, it many times bends the crank. The crank might be out .0009. what you do is strike the crank with a sharp rap and it will come back straight. Like 50% of the crystals want it back the way it was, and you are just changing the other percentage to shift.
Check out the Pakistan truck youth here. Those guys use hand tools to fix many broken, bent, cracked or modify big trucks. Tractors would be a piece of cake. You did good, though if bent again have pros do the repair or unit swap it.
i built a 4'x4' welding table with 12" i-beam laying flat, and put a 4x4x1-1/2" steel plate on top of the 2 12" i-beams and cut 4 peaces of 12" i-beam for the four legs welded the 2 bottom i-beams to the plate, welded the 4 . 12" i-beam up right on each corner at a hight of 30 inchs and put anothe 4x4 1-1/2 plate on top of the 4 legs of i-beam and welded all 4 to the top plate, now i have a welding table that the bottom plate is 12" off the floor an 30" between the bottom an top plate i lay 2 peace of 6" i-bean 3 feet long across the bottom plate one on one side of the bottom plate an the other i-beam on the other side of the bottom plate, and put a 5"x5"x1" thick hard rubber on the 2 bottom i-beams lay the bent rod on top of the 2 rubber pads tac weld a 6"x6" 1" plate to the under side of the top plate i sit the 20 ton jake bace on the center of the bend in the rod with a 2" rubber pad between the rod and the base of the jake, put the shaft of the ake on the 1" plate that is under the top plate of the bence, and it takes everything that 20 ton jake has to bend that 2" rod, you have to way over spring it the other way before it is strait, the rubber pads protect any damage to the crome plating on the rod as that plating is very thin, even sparks from welding will pt burn marks in thatthin plating and the rod is no good, it will leak and you have to take it in to get recromed, not cheap, any dent or chip in the plating takes out the seals an packing, i sure wouldnt put a chain on the rod like that, with all that presser i am sure you messed up the crome plating as well as put bad dents into the steel of the rod, you dont need to worry if it slips out, it is only going to jump a few inchs, its not going to go flying, i have done many an the last thing i want to do is damage that plating because its your baby if you do, it will never keep a packing for long, i use a 50 ton jack for 2" rods, 20 some times just will not do, treat that rod like a piston out of an engine .. rubber pad it
Fuckin right!I'm a true believer in the belief that you can't break something that's already broke so why not try and fix it using the best of ones ability to!PAPA GUNN MINNESOTA SON ✌🏼
Mike, bottom line if you feel into money overnight, you love what you do. You would get another backhoe and run it till all four wheels feel off. But what you learned on this one would keep the next one like new cause I never throw short pieces of chain away, I just find another uses for it like a gate catch or something.The outside bends and the other stays straight so it binds and its not perfect but it works. I got a working tractor from a guy who I seen use it every day. When I got it, everything "kinda"worked but slow or leaked and that is what you have is someones junk that they walked away from cause all the new is gone. You look at it as a back saver and will look at a video or two to fix it right. I admire you. Long and the short, that engine will need a back yard rebuild that is rings and bearings and should bite the bullet and new gaskets but then it will last a long time. The hydrostatic transmission you have working and will at some time have to change steels and frictions but not for a long time. Case doesn't have a lot of power cause it would break stuff so if it won't lift a mountain then don't force it to and it will last forever. I have made the mistake of tuning up the power and it aways comes back on me!!
I am glad to hear from you. I think I can squeeze some more life out it. I hope i can avoid a engine rebuild. if i could pull the oil pan and push the rods thru the top i think i would have already pulled it apart. the way it looks i would have to pull the engine to rebuild the cylinders. I guess ill see how it operates before i have to decide.
@@mikekisch5563 engines built with the head and block being a part of each other are rather easy to fix as there are no seats to worry over and building tools are your long suit if you only know it.Just putting a stone on a long rod and shaping the seat then the easy part using a valve lapping device to smooth out the valve. they don't match, no problem as they at least seat and any carbon is pinched into. then with cleaned up rings that are not worn real bad can be reinstalled and then bearings carefully guarded to go back where they come from will live again or be replaced if the brase is showing (plastigauge is your friend)just make sure that the rings are all 1/3 around on each gland (you know this part or ask me later) I pulled wrenches for about forty five years and some of mey work passed muster. Bush mechanic in alaska and your partshouse wss the scrap pile at the end of camp as things wore out, they were stored for future jobs... called repurposing. I could send to town for a twenty dollars got back dressed as five hundred cause flying in and missing one flight and a hundred excuses sound idiot proof
The motor in your tractor is a 239 cu “ Cummins, 4BT 390 ! “B” meaning block bore, no sleeves ! “T” for turbo ! If you look on the front gear cover there are 2 tag plates , you can learn all about you engine from these tags ! There are usually 2 filters right above the fuel pump CHANGE THEM BOTH also an inline between the pump & tank , 3/8” line ! Starving the injector pump can destroy it ! You could do an inframe rebuild , remove the head & oil pan , orient the crank for each rod to near bottom , to do this you will need a special tool called BARRING tool , not the starter!! Where you use it , remove the plastic plug in the bellhousing , just below the fuel filters ! Plasti-gauge all bearings to determine oil clearance, if it is to much , question is bearings or crank or both ? Before you tear it down what is your oil press , mine did not have a gauge , so i installed one ! Over by the oil filter , that side plate has a press relief valve , set at 63-65 lbs All rod caps their bolts & bearings must go back in original place ! Push the pistons out with a stick , & if you can not see cross thatch mark you will have to touch it slightly with a cylinder hone ,then take rings off each piston , insert each in it’s own hole use piston to push down square measure end gap ! , do this even if you buy new ones There is a thread discussion dedicated to these things especially the Cummins engines called 4 BT swaps , they are a great bunch of guy’s willing to go out of their way to help people like you & me !! My thread is 4BT rebuild PAPA Good luck, Merry Christmas , Also go to WWW.sonlifetv.com you will be blessed !
Morgan Adair ! Read my comments below yours . The head & intake are “1” but not part of the block ! It was probably late when you said that , there is valves & seats to lap ! neither the crank or cam shafts can come out without removing everything off the front of the motor, which removes the front pump & motor mounts
Water always goes to the bottom! To change the oil , Did you take out that big nut on the bot of the oil tank ? If there was h2o in one cyl you best check all the others also by cycling & bleeding at connections . If your tractor is same as mine, where the frame is the tank , where the pump sucks out of the frame there is a 6” circle plate there and behind it , a metal meth screen clean it and solvent wash the sediment out of tank with air & solvent. I did mine 3x before it started to look decent & it did NOT have any water . The next cyl I open I am going to put some sealant just before I tighten the gland nut , & that sucker should be TIGHT & setscrew drilled and tapped into the thread to keep it locked there ! In fact I have had to rebuild 5 & I did seal the last one .I made my own gland nut wrenches , looked like a horse shoe with a 2ft handle & 3 points to fit 3 holes , Worked on the same cyl as you , added 8ft of pipe over wrench handle , wife straddled & sat on that , while i tapped on nut with 16 ounce ball -peen hammer for 5 min before it broke loose You need to find yourself some manuals
If you need it straighter with that jack you would need to rerig it to use a lever with a double length on the jack, so leave the ram as is tied at both ends then from one end a thick bar under the bent ram , then a spacer to press under the ram then double the length past the spacer then the jack that would double the force on the bent ram
#1 cut a piece of pipe big enough to go over the cylinder rod where you secure it with the chain, so you do not scratch or damage the rod #2 take the top of the hydraulic jack, check size of pin , drill a hole in a 1/2 piece of pipe about 2” long , weld a pin into it that will fit the jack cyl Put a piece of leather from an old mitt in the saddle that is now on the top of the jack , this way you wont damage the cyl , & the jack wont fly out & hurt someone , . As someone else said steel has memory & the idea of a sharp rap on the end might help . With the rod out , stand it in its foot with the pin through the end something “helper” to hold it vertical, & maybe lay a plate of aluminum on the end to hit, or a couple washers under the bolt torqued real tight , then rap the end with a 3 lb hammer , put it back into your jack setup , maxed out& leave it in the sun for couple days Think safety first !
when cutting a hole with a torch don’t you Usually start in the center And cork screw your way out. Not sure but that’s the way I was taught to do a circle whole
I once tried to straighten a hydraulic cylinder and there were dents on it. I didn’t straighten it, I gave it to the workshop and the guys made a new stock.
Oil looks like a milkshake somehow There is water mixed in and machine Parts cannot be Straight Back It can shattering up or explode because hardened machine Steel
mine is a 580C i think the ck was an earlier model. Two things worth mentioning you probably already know. there may be a set screw on the gland that will lock it in place and if the rod eye doesnt spin freely move the cylinder in and out until it does to remove the gland.
@@mikekisch5563 Already have both cylinders taken apart and sitting on the bench. Was surprised I was able to break the bolt at the back of the rods free with only a 3' cheater bar. I did know of the set screws from watching allot of videos but thanks. Yeah my CK is a 1969.
@@rlachermeier if you dont have a clutch then its probably shuttle shift. i was thinking how nice of a system that is today going from forward to reverse with a lever. not as nice as a hydrostat forward/reverse, but very close. I am glad to hear from you.
first your chains were not tight enogh, so you lost jack stroke distance, and while you had it straight all you had to do is heat it, then poor some cold water on it to harden it... but best get a new one
I know replacement cylinders are big $$. There's a place maybe an hour from me called Schaefer Enterprises in Wolf Lake IL that might have salvage parts . Their website is basic but they do list machines tore down on their website.
I dont care how old and dry a hydraulic jack is, the oil seems to leak or evaporate. I have floor jacks and some bottle jacks about every couple years needs topping off with no visible leaking, I dont know where it goes to be truthful. I saw your outside ring of the jack start to go up and stopped, 2nd stage, lack of oil.
Good plan to fix it I had a Cylinder rod they had to make a new rod it was not Cheap . It was for the bucket but it was scared up too what ever works to stop it from tearing any thing else up is good to me and save $$ for the bigger jobs . I got a Case 1845C skid steer it works but needs attention show the Command man fix anything with some thought .
Messing eng. Shop won't survive with messer's like this .place rod on v blocks of hyd. ,press .Pump piston down to meet rod.rotate and see how muchrod is bent .Use press to remove Rod is 100 per cent straight
I've seen him do that with a torch, a set of rollers, a dial indicator and a pressurized blast of cold air and water mist on the heated spot and make them about straight as new! Amazing.
It is nice to know i can do a rebuild without pulling the engine. Also i have changed both of the fuel filters and double checked for an inline filter. I am glad for the post.
Give somebody a machine to run thats not theirs and they'll figure out wrecking it somehow, especially if they aren't a good operator or paying to fix it with their own money. Accidents do happen but sometimes some of these guys out in the world operating, are an accident just looking for the occasion. ! I repair for a living and have seen rods bent at 90 degrees on cylinders bigger than this !
I have a guy offering a Case 310B with a backhoe and bucket for $1500. Need the tea for to dig drainage on my property. Your thoughts ??? Never owned a tractor before, less alone a backhoe... Lol Says it runs fine , needs a hydrolic line on backhoe
@@mikekisch5563 I have a few Army buds that are going to go and look at it with me that may provide some insight and the trailer to boot...lol Be well, Merry Christmas to you and yours.
@@mikekisch5563 Well I could have easily pointed you to a place that would have sold you a ram used in perfect condition for $100 shipping included. But you probably would have had a snarky asshole comment to that too
i built a 4'x4' welding table with 12" i-beam laying flat, and put a 4x4x1-1/2" steel plate on top of the 2 12" i-beams and cut 4 peaces of 12" i-beam for the four legs welded the 2 bottom i-beams to the plate, welded the 4 . 12" i-beam up right on each corner at a hight of 30 inchs and put anothe 4x4 1-1/2 plate on top of the 4 legs of i-beam and welded all 4 to the top plate, now i have a welding table that the bottom plate is 12" off the floor an 30" between the bottom an top plate i lay 2 peace of 6" i-bean 3 feet long across the bottom plate one on one side of the bottom plate an the other i-beam on the other side of the bottom plate, and put a 5"x5"x1" thick hard rubber on the 2 bottom i-beams lay the bent rod on top of the 2 rubber pads tac weld a 6"x6" 1" plate to the under side of the top plate i sit the 20 ton jake bace on the center of the bend in the rod with a 2" rubber pad between the rod and the base of the jake, put the shaft of the ake on the 1" plate that is under the top plate of the bence, and it takes everything that 20 ton jake has to bend that 2" rod, you have to way over spring it the other way before it is strait, the rubber pads protect any damage to the crome plating on the rod as that plating is very thin, even sparks from welding will pt burn marks in thatthin plating and the rod is no good, it will leak and you have to take it in to get recromed, not cheap, any dent or chip in the plating takes out the seals an packing, i sure wouldnt put a chain on the rod like that, with all that presser i am sure you messed up the crome plating as well as put bad dents into the steel of the rod, you dont need to worry if it slips out, it is only going to jump a few inchs, its not going to go flying, i have done many an the last thing i want to do is damage that plating because its your baby if you do, it will never keep a packing for long, i use a 50 ton jack for 2" rods, 20 some times just will not do, treat that rod like a piston out of an engine .. rubber pad it
