ABS Warning Light - Super Easy Fix!  

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!

Should be the exact same process - good luck!

Cheers - and yes… a much more involved job at the back… for those who aren’t familiar, you have to remove the 2nd row of seats, pull the carpet back, pull out a block of foam, pull out the air con ducting, and there is a round flap with the abs connector and the fuel pump actually - same access point for both

@@bigtalltim Are you in the Volvo xc90 UK owners club on Facebook? Lots of info there and perhaps share your video there.

I’m not now, but did used to be… I haven’t used Facebook for a few years now

Hi! I have a couple of different diagnostic computers, but the main one (and the one used for this) is an icarsoft cr-max.

It’s a fair bet that it would, but to avoid loading the parts cannon unnecessarily, stick a diagnostic computer on it to read the code… the abs light will sometimes only come on above 20kph so it could be an intermittent reading when travelling, but could also be as simple as a dodgy connection - make sure you check the sensor connection is good… condensation in winter can be an issue, so rule that out and maybe use some contact cleaner! Failing that, check the tone rings don’t have any rust or debris in between the castellations - that can be enough to provide a dodgy reading which isn’t quite bad enough to register a DTC, but is enough to light up the warning light for that journey. My guess would be tone ring issues rather than sensor - sensor failure is a straight DTC and permanent light… let us know how it goes!

@@bigtalltim Thanks for the reply. The code I'm getting it ABS-0109 ( Communication between control modules. Communication with the Steering Angle sensor. Internal fault) & ABS-0022 ( Right front wheel sensor. Faulty Signal) Any understanding? Thanks alot

Ok… first part, sounds like the steering angle sensor that is part of the clockspring has failed… fcp euro did a great video on replacing the steering angle sensor. On the abs sensor, it could be that some flakes of rust or metal chips have stuck to the end of the sensor and are affecting the signal… surprising how easily the signal can be disrupted… worth taking it out to have a look… check the ring too - metal particles in mud or rust between the castellations on the ring would cause the same. The intermittent nature makes me suspect the sensor is working, but is being confused by magnetic debris

Thanks alot for your help. If I was to take it to a garage how much do you think it would/should cost?

A good few hundred quid - definitely worth having a look around first in case it is something straight forward! Definitely start with looking for contaminants on the tone ring/sensor