I know I'm late here but for future reference whenever you have a coolant issue not transferring between radiator and overflow tank it's caused by a bad radiator cap or wrong radiator cap , firstly every cap for every radiator must be pressed down with a little spring tension before turning to close it , secondly the rubber seals must be in good to provide tight sealing to create the right pressure thirdly there is another valve in the radiator cap that opens specifically for the coolant to return to the radiator , when that valve is blocked that's when it keeps transferring to the coolant bottle but not receiving from the bottle because the second valve is stuck , it's that metal that rest on the lower rubber seal , your fingers can pull it , it has a spring tension when you release it it will set back in place , hope this bit helps blessings to you all.
what if the reservoir tank always looks empty but its not leaking. and i filled it up once just to see it empty a again a few week later. (the car has never over heated) have owned it for almsot 10yrs n i hardly ever add coolant since it never overheats. but is that normal for reservoir tank to be empty all the time?
I have a 2003 Honda Civic LX with no bleeder valve and used the funnel with coolant method to burp the system and it still didn't work. What I found out later is that you leave that funnel with coolant attached after shutting off the engine. Do not plug it. Let the coolant and engine cool overnight. As the coolant in the radiator and engine gets cold it contracts creating a vacuum sucking more coolant from the funnel. If you remove the fumnel too early, you risk sucking in air instead.
if the head gasket is leaking between two adjacent cyls, the compression will be low in those two cyls and it would misfire as well. If it leaking between a cyl and the coolant jacket, then there will be coolant in the oil. Let out a little bit of oil from the sump, and if you see coolant come out first then you know the head gasket is a problem water is heavier than oil so it sinks to the bottom of the oil. I read this info in my ALLDATA subscription. also look for water globules on the oil dipstick.
I had the same issue with a Chevy express 2500 with 220,000 miles. Replaced the radiator cap. Seem to fix the issue for a couple of weeks. O'Hara replaced the thermostat 12 months ago. And flush the cooling system 3 months prior Then I was getting an over heating issue I was loosing my mind. People keep telling me it was the head gasket from the engine. End up been the thermostat I didn't think it was the issue but I gave it a try and that fixed all those issues
Head gaskets can be really tricky and insidious. My honda civic with a h22 swap had a issue with the overflow bubbling over in the Summer. Got progressively worse over 2 years and finally started overheating and burping all of its coolant out of the overflow. It never gave me much trouble but I know it was already bad 2 years ago. Even if the car drives fine, there could be some problems with it just realize.
@@kidwilson3357 eh, true. My car overheated again after the headgasket change, I had the head milled and i had a new head gasket put on. New water pump and timing belt. I think i might have put too high concentraction of coolant added or maybe thermostat is stuck shit. What do you think? I also have blue smoke out the tailpipe and gusts of wind out of the oil cap with the motor running. I already decided to swap the motor out with another H22 (well its a H23a blue top not a H22). Either way I'm going to figure out what the hell is wrong with this motor when I take it apart to put the new one in (JDM low miles which I payed 1190 dollars for). But the head gasket on the motor now is confirmed trashed, it had 2 different breaks in between cylinders. I think my block might be ruined somehow. I did a visual inspection but I did not check it for flatness
@@Mishakol1290 I learned from experience that the block should also be resurfaced when doing a head gasket; use a straight edge and place across the block and look for low spots, especially the little piece between the cyls. if you can see light or a feeler gauge can pass, then you know where the leak is. I did a block on my brother's car some years ago with water sand paper and a flat block of wood; because taking the engine out to send it to the shop would have been a big problem.
I was losing water on a Tucson 2005 2.7 V6. Found a leak on the radiator where the transmission cooling pipes enter the radiator. Due to the age of the car I used a bottle of bars stop leak which solved the leak. After that I had the problem where the car would transfer water to the overflow bottle, but would not syphon it back. I then took the hose to the syphon tank off and replaced it with a clear hose, obtainable from any hardware store. I could then see the coolant pushing out but not syphoning back. In fact every time the vehicle heated up and cooled down there was a air space in the clear tube which should have only shown coolant and no air. I replaced the radiator cap. Same problem. I then took the over flow hose from the over flow tank and sucked on it to create a vacuum. I could clearly hear the air leaking in at the new cap. I then noticed that the gasket on the old cap and the new cap did not reach the edge of the cap, There was about a 3mm space right around the edge. I purchased some rubber, cut a gasket to reach the edge of the cap and fitted it on top of the original gasket. Problem solved. Blue smoke is oil and will not affect your radiator.
Have you disconnect the hose from radiator neck to overflow bottle? Test hose to see if it is blocked. Smoke: Blue is Oil, black is gas, white is water.
@@zgdev5198 leaking somewhere. All leaks are not external , some can be internal resulting in the coolant getting into the oil from a blown head gasket which is likely the problem here. He mentions seeing a leak & smoke from the tailpipe. Signs of a head gasket & the reason coolant isn't returning to the reserve container
@@BigAlWillis so I don’t see smoke in my tailpipe but however the coolant is backing up just like this guys video I replaced the thermostat and radiator cap and now it’s able to pass by to the other holes but still backing up in the radiator cap so I’m not sure if it’s a head gasket or bad radiator or if the radiator clogged
@@zgdev5198 when running its normal for the reserve jug level to increase a little then once the vehicle cools the vacuum returns the coolant to the radiator. Are you losing coolant or overheating?
Smoke out of the dip stick tube always means piston ring(s) are not sealing. It means pressure is pushing past the rings from the block and into the crankcase, then out the dip stick tube and/or oil fill cap.
If your radiator wont draw the coolant back into the engine from the reservoir tank then you coolant system has a leak somewhere. It's probably is in the tube that connects the reservoir tank to the radiator. In the video it shows that you are using nylon wire ties as hose clamps. Replace them with actual hose clamps. If they leak they will not allow the coolant to be drawn back into the engine. Or if the hose is cracked anywhere it will not work. Think of it this way, if you are drinking a coke from a straw and it has a hole in the straw it will not go up the straw. You need a vacuum to make it work and if there is a poor seal in the pipe or the radiator cap is not functioning properly the system will not work. Or if you have a slight leak somewhere in you other hoses it will not hold the vacuum and will not work.
You're 100% correct that might be the issue. My Chevy express 2500 did the same thing. No hose cracks just a bad engine thermostat. I had replace 12 months prior
@@lakshanprabuddha8039 yes Also check the radiator cap. Believe it or not. That can cause issues. Also make sure there is no air in the cooling system. I made a mistake about a month ago and filled the radiator while the engine was off. So it caught some air. And started having heating issues 20 minutes later. Man I thought I had a blown head gasket. And sure shit it was air in the system causing that. Just let the engine run for a while with the heat running in high setting for about 20 minutes it should burp it out. You can also squeeze the upper radiator hose while engine running to help to push air out of the radiator. But yes my radiator leak stop after replacing the radiator cap and new thermostat
I had the same problem with Dex cool it turned out the Dex Cool turned into goo and it plugged up the over flow tank hole where it transfers back and forth to the radiator . I cleaned it out and it’s fine now.
@@biglebowski923 unreal. I can tell you one thing. And noticed the over flow spilling again. My guess I know I should be using the red stuff according to the manual. And I am using the green stuff. Things that we don't know but makes a big difference. Thanks for the info
I've seen a car with a defective head gasket have same symptoms it ran for a year (driven few times a week) needing coolant added, though when it finally failed the fluid was coming out the exhaust pipe into a giant puddle bf it was noticed.
It seems that technology has developed towards the direction of draining car owners' pockets. I have owned several cars since 1981 and never encountered a heating problem even in those cars that I retained for over 10 years. I am now suffering a problem similar to that covered in this video, namely coolant loss in the radiator section (requiring refills before every trip). I detected the cause when I saw coolant oozing out of the reservoir outlet opening. No smoke, no leaks in the hoses or engine and no milky deposits on the oil cap and oil dip stick. The rad cap and thermostat were replaced about 6 months ago. Mileage is only 130,000 kilo meters (about 81,000 miles). The quoted cost of replacing the head gasket (I am uncertain about whether that gasket is blown) is so high as to make it uneconomical to repair. It is disappointing to read in the comments about the large number of people who are encountering heating problems. This was not the case in earlier days.
Well, as you know, cars are built differently these days. Back in the day, everything was simple and to the point. There's a long stretch in the 90s and beyond where cars were c*** We used to call Them throw away cars. Thank God how old you have to worry about is how you're gonna pay for your $10000 battery and whether or not you'll make it to the next charging station.😮
Probably have some oil leaking from the spark plug tube seals or valve stem seals. Usually leaking Oil will have a blue color smoke, Coolant will be White in color.
I can see a problem with your small radiator hose. I would replace the white plastic fastener with a metal hose fastener, which can be screwed tight. Acura (and many others) should have placed a hose fastener on this connection. When this hose is old, this connection is not sealed tight and air instead of coolant is sucked back into the radiator. If the driver does not check the coolant level regularly, it can easily cause an overheated engine. Air out of your radiator when you pushed the gas is exhaust gas, which is a sign of damaged engine (possible head gasket). If you still have this issue even after you replace the fastener, then the leak sits somewhere else, either the radiator itself or the damaged engine is to be blamed. Exhaust gas leaks into your radiator so can air.
I tho8ght I solved the issue by doing just that ..there was no clip on the hose to rad neck . Was fine for almost a week today iverflow was higher again so annoying . Git a new water pump here to put on ..no evident leaks had thus issue before and after hg was replaced..Head was skimmed and pressure tested maybe a clip on the hose (s) to overflow cap may help even though theure very snug
if anyone needs to find a leak the way I found mine was get a little red siphon pump from harbor freight, lowes, walmart, many places have them. ((when engine is cold)) hook the line to where the rubber hose is next to the radiator cap & pump it up putting air into the system. make sure you have fluid in the system to see when it leaks out. those little siphon kits are only like $6 bucks, so you find your leak easy & quick. poor mans pressure test but it works.
As soon as the engine warm up the water will start boiling Bubbles it mean there s air in the system leave it like that running also set the heat on high inside your car
Check the hose clamps on all the hoses. On my accord, the most my clamps were more than 20 years old and did not really hold the hoses tight enough so air was going into the coolant.
There sould be a fill line on the overflow tank for coolent level .If not enough coolent in the catch tank it wont syphon in and out , and back again .
In early March, I posted my comment/idea (see below). I later learnt the hard way. This is due to the fact that combustion gas was finding its way to the cooling system, when I install the SEALED overflow tank, the pressure went up without a relief valve. Within a week, first I blew a lower hose then 2 days later the radiator was wrecked(leaking at the joint at the upper tank) If you have "coolant going to reservoir but not back to radiator" problem like me. The first thing you should confirm is to leave the engine completely cooled down(say first thing in the morning) then open the radiator cap. If you can hear a hissing sound of air escaping then your problem is like mine(combustion gas got into cooling system). The only way to solve this problem is to fix the engine head. Otherwise you will have to keep using the turkey baster transfer. Now I installed an overflow bottle at the highest position in the engine bay (just touching the underside of the bonnet and by the fire wall) This bottle is not sealed(you can drill a 1mm hole to let air out, but coolant might get through this hole too)To avoid this I did not have this tiny hole instead I drilled a 4.5mm hole at a high position of the bottle so I can insert a 5mm (outside diameter) plastic hose . I insert one end of this hose(half inch is plenty)into this 4.5mm hole, the other end just insert into the existing overflow tank. This bottle can either be plastic or glass(I am going to Ikea to buy a 1 litre cylindrical glass bottle with a wooden lid, replace the seal with an appropriate O ring, so I can drill holes for the connections, make some clamps to secure the lid) This way you can see the coolant level. The important point is you connect the overflow hose at the lowest point of the bottle if possible(say at the bottom). Ideally,the bottom of the bottle is higher than the radiator cap(any coolant inside will drain out completely) but it can be a bit lower(a certain amount of coolant will stay) If the bottom of the bottle is higher than the radiator cap, you can top up the radiator when it is cold and leave the bottle empty. Drive the car as normal, Coolant will be pushed into this bottle, next day in the morning, open the cap and look through to see if the coolant still covers the core, if it does just drive the car for another day then check the coolant level next morning again, do this until you see the coolant level is just barely cover the core, replace the cap immediately. Use a marker pen mark the coolant level on the side of the bottle then re-open the cap, coolant will flow back into the radiator by gravity force, once the radiator is full replace the cap. From now on you just need to check the coolant level on the bottle when it reached the mark and do away with the turkey baster transfer. If the bottom of the bottle is lower than the radiator cap, you just need to fill the bottle up until the coolant level is same with the cap's level. Then do the above exercise. Unfortunately, we'll have to do this until we fix the engine head. I hope this information can help you guys a bit before you can afford a proper fix.
This is just Reinventing the wheel. See a motorcycle reservoir tank, pressure lid of radiator and you'd understand that whatever you are writing here plus many upgrades are already done and dusted. The radiator lid shown in video is simple one, but a motorcycle with high compression ratio engine has a lid with dual purpose. One is to hold pressure till some bars, and other is to pull coolant from overhead reservoir tank when engine is cooling down. They have a Central pull mechanism with which opens when coolant is cooling down, letting the gravity do the work.
Yeah I used stop leak and my overflow is full. Just changed the radiator yesterday. All hoses tight. Might need to replace the radiator cap due to the gunk from the stop leak
What if you are not getting any air bubbles after replacing radiator? Top radiator hose get extremely hot but bottom radiator hose warm to touch. New radiator, hoses, thermostat replace on 2002 Toyota Tacoma 3.4 . Thanks.
If anything is coming out of the rafiator cap replace it. Still not working? It's all pressure based. Run your car for 20 minutes if it starts boiling in the resrvoir tank it's because you have a leaky/blown head hasket and the coolant is not flowing through the system properly.
Can someone explain why zipties aren’t a good idea please? A lot of comments suggesting to switch to hose clamps. But what’s the zipties doing or not doing? They’re on a hose that doesn’t see much pressure. It’s not like they gave to be so strong
My car does this too had the radiator bust ran it overheating for a minute and then had it towed fixed the radiator and upper radiator hose cuz it was leaking and now the coolant won't go back into radiator when it cools. I have been taking the overflow out and pouring it back in radiator.
Hello. I reach you from Turkey. I've been using honda civic 2005 for 8 years but I don't understand how the Coolant Reservoir works. How the radiator draws back fluid from the Coolant Reservoir. The expansion tank inlet is too low and there is no engine in it. Here's how water returns to the system. I couldn't understand the working principle. Thansk for everything.
Something similar happened to my integra, but my overflow tank would actually fill up. I found my water pump leaking. I'm guessing it was sucking air into the system, and pushing coolant out the overflow tank. I fixed the water pump leak and it stopped. I'm not saying this is your problem, just sharing my story :)
Im having the same issue...coolant will fill up in the resevoir and not drain back into the radiator...i dont have coolant in my oil and no oil in my coolant...no smoke out of the exhaust...no issues driving no idle problems...coolant is only leaking when the resevoir gets full...i have no idea what the problem is...shouldnt be a head gasket with only 74,000 miles on the car...i was thinking water pump also...my resevoir fills up till it leaks...also did you try bleeding the coolant...did you have constant lil air bubbles?
Hello !!.....could you see any leaking at bottom of water pump?....I watch very closely the color of my prestone and any white soap off my oil cap. Been watching for two weeks, and don't see any contaminations. Please let me know more of your experience. ....Mario , NOva SCotia, Canada
Bro, you have bubble coming up your radiator, it from your head gasket or warp cylinder head! I have the same thing for the 2005 Camry 2.4 l engine. The back pressure put the coolant into the reservoir bottle, but the back pressure prevent the coolant suck back to the radiator.
@Kid Wilson33 i have the exact same issue... did you try changing the hose? there could be a small crack allowing air in the system. I also suspect a small hole in the head gasket that would allow air to enter the system so i removed the thermostat and use blue devil head gasket sealer just in case... i will run it for a day or two then empty the system and flush it with distilled water once then refill.
Am having the same issue. No blue smoke tho. Had my motot repaired new block head gasket... Got a new radiator cap today and see what happends because i did used a cheap cap hopefully it fixes the problem.
So I just took my 03 Camry to a shop , I been having a coolant leak and was told I had a slight blown head gasket. And every time I drive for a little bit the coolant drips on the pipes and creates steam where it looks like my car is smoking . Is this really a symptom of a blown head gasket?
Ive had a slight outter head gasket leak it just steamed out and my resevior would be sucked back out like it should but not its fixed and now it doesn't go back in the radiator anymore no signs of leaks no smoke im stumped
i have a similar problem only without the blue smoke, when I check the radiator after the vehicle stands for about two hours then the water is up and when I check the radiator after a whole night then the water goes down a bit, about 5 cm (engine heat is normal and also water in condensate tank) Anyone have any advice??
I had the coolant just sit in the reservoir on a 2002 jeep grand cherokee. It never went in or out. I also heard water noises in the heater core. I changed the radiator cap, presto problems solved.
You all need to check your reserviors for leaks and cracks in it to. And the hoses gpong to it. Sex the top hose to check it. But look for cracks in it.
A good chance that your thermostat is no working properly it make the radiator suck the water back in as the water circulate through the water pump .. blue smoke is from the piston rings ..
On my 2000Mazda b4000 I noticed it’s not sucking the coolant back in to the radiator an when I take the radiator cap off it always need to be topped off a little bit but if I drive it for along time on the highway I noticed the coolant in over flow go’s back into the radiator u think it’s a thermostat?
The Thermostat gauge has barely moved up after 12 minutes into the video. The thermostat is stuck open, another observation the bubbles surging from the radiator suggest an issue with the head gasket.
I have the same issue with my 07 Acura TL. I’ve put new radiator cap not oem but a new one, a thermostat, flushed the heater core, bleed the system multiple times and flushed the system multiple times. Coolant still goes into the reservoir tank but not back into the radiator
@@jtjimenez05 I actually am still driving the car the way it is/ I have never had it at the shop yet. I tried to get some people to help but mechanics are a pain in the ass around here. I'd say it's blown headgasket and valve stem seals etc. Good luck
my 1998 chevy metro is doing the same thing except i have white smoke first thing in the morning then it goes away. my coolent dosen't stay in the radiator at all it goes from the radiator into the resevar its not overheating or anything but coolent leaks out of the radiator cap the plastic at the top of the radiator won't stay tight at all
You may want to pull your dipstick and check for a milky white/ coolant /etc on the stick.....Could be blown head gasket... You'll also loose coolant and your oil level will go up...
You have a head gasket leak. Check the oil filler cap bottom to see if there's "mayonnaise" on it. That would signal coolant going into your oil. Change your radiator cap though.
Did you find the answer? I'm guessing you are using zip ties for the overflow hose and they don't do a good job sealing the hose to the cap and overflow tank preventing the radiator cap to do its job (vacuum sucks air versus fluid). In your case, I would think the fluid cannot overcome gravity as your radiator cap is located higher in the chain. Use a Worm Gear Hose Clamp instead of zip ties and make them snug. Let us know how it goes. Good luck.
My car does the exact same thing! I have a 2007 impreza(non-turbo), and I did the same things you do. I been doing the turkey baster transfer for three years now...
Head gasket issue with Subaru. I've own them before and same with Acura Integra...similar issue with head gasket so I move on to Honda and Toyota for reliability. Not so say Acura is not a Honda products but the Integra and older model Legend is having head gasket problems. ..been there done that long ago.
Well if you’re talking about ah 20 to 30 year old car common sense would tell you that those cars may need ah new head gasket and ah punch of new things so if you’re not into fixing up you’re own ride then buying used cars is not for you
02 March, 2018 I solved this problem in my 2006 Subaru Liberty MY06 30R (3litre engine) by installing a SEALED OVERFLOW TANK. I installed the tank EMPTY. You can buy it off ebay, search: 800ML Car Overflow Radiator Coolant Aluminum Catch Tank Cylinder Alloy Kit Black. I reckon the radiator keeps pushing the coolant into the OPEN overflow tank without sucking it back, as a result the radiator is low in fluid level hence the OVERHEATING. (I have to suck out and refill the radiator after every trip to prevent the engine from overheating) Replacing the OPEN overflow tank with a SEALED one we solve both problems: 1)We stop the excessive overflow amount of coolant into the overflow tank. The size of the SEALED tank is 0.8 litre so it takes no more than this volume, thus the coolant cannot flow out any more than it can with an OPEN tank this results in the coolant level in the radiator tank is maintained. Therefore no more OVERHEATING 2)We enable the coolant flowing back to the radiator. The pressure in an OPEN tank is ALWAYS at normal atmosphere, if the vacuum in the radiator/engine block, for whatever reason unknown to us, is insufficient to SUCK back the coolant, now it will be PUSHED back into the radiator since the tank holds the pressure equals to the original pressure that pushed it out. I actually installed mine horizontally at the highest point in the engine bay with the intake/discharge pipe at the bottom to use gravity to help the coolant flow too. One thing you should take into consideration is you must allow sufficient VOLUME for the expansion of the coolant. This means you must keep a certain amount of AIR in the SYSTEM, Otherwise, your hoses could burst or worst your radiator bursts. My coolant volume is 7.8 litres, it is safe to use this SEALED tank. If your coolant volume is significantly higher, you must be cautious. You can go about by installing one tank and run the engine and at the same time OBSERVE the radiator hoses to see any swelling till the engine reaches operating temperature. Any swelling indicates not enough air space. Stop the engine immediately to stop any damage. If so you can install 2 tanks and use a T to connect the two so as to give you the air space needed. In my opinion, if you do install two tanks and the engine MAY run OVERHEATING. The cause I can think of is the 2 tanks hold 2X0.8=1.6 litres of coolant, this may drop the coolant level in the radiator too much. By trial and error you can slowly add a certain amount of coolant into one tank until the problem goes away. I hope my info helps you gays. Happy motoring.
Hi there I'm currently having this problem with my H6 3L subaru engine in my Outback, I live in Australia and this idea sounds quite good I was thinking would be good for my MY99 GC8 WRX for performance as in always keeping it better cooled? Also do you know if there is a video title or RU-vidr that has a video showing this? Cheers
I have a question i just recently replaced my fan and fan clutch i also replaced the thermostat but my 92 gt still overheats and the light of low coolant is on any help or suggestions please would be highly appreciated
if this continues after radiator cap is replaced with new, means his cooling system is getting over-pressurized, and never pulls back coolant after engine cools down. Excess pressure is coming from a blown head gasket, exhaust gasses entering the cooling system. No other condition would cause this behavior.
hey look your Reservoir problem if you look at the bottom of the grill at the very bottom of the evaporator coil for the air conditioner you'll find these fins clothes and clogged not allowed the right amount of air to cool the radiator unclog these fins by poking holes do not ruin the evaporator coil poking holes will allow the right amount of air to cool the radiator you will see problem solved no water will leave the radiator and enter the reservoir take care good luck
Head gaskest. My car does the exact same thing, except no smoke. I dont even have any oil/coolant contamination. But its a leak between the cylinder and the coolant jacket. (In the head gasket)
I had a small external head gasket leak on my 2005 Toyota Camry. The coolant leaked out by the intake manifold. No other symptoms other than coolant draining slowly and the coolant dripping onto the flex pipe, which is causing corrosion. I used Blue Devil head gasket sealant after a full system flush and it sealed the external leak. Now my issue is that I noticed the coolant is now pumping into the overflow reservoir, but not back into the radiator. I'm guessing there was a small head gasket leak internally too (or one just formed). I did not have that issue before. I'm going to try to use the sealant once again and see if it'll shore up the gasses going into the coolant.
@@afcgeo882 don't waste money on the blue devil. Do it right and just fix the headgasket. No reason to put a bandaid on a problem that won't just go away.
Thanks, but it fixed the issue. Might only be temporarily, but it’s enough for me considering the cost. I can always repair the gead gasket. It just isn’t worth on a car that’ll fetch $3k on a trade-in.
All the symtoms in this video means its a blown head gasket the overflow of coolant into the reservoir the blue smoke coming out of the pipe indicating coolant is getting into the piston on the vacuum and also during the compression stroke exhaust gases are getting into the cooling system causing water pump to circulate air really rapidly probably also causing your engine to overheat
4+ years of basting and My Teg is still chugging along. Red engine oil light popped up about 5 months ago and I freaked out. The car was still running great so. I eventually just kept driving it and I unplugged the bulb behind the dash. Im over 300,000 and this has been one hell of a reliable car. Anything I get at this point is Bonus miles. My car was looking a lot better n 2015 ;)
I have an 02 civic with 1.7 vtec at over 230,000 mi doing this. identical to a tee. I tried a few other rad caps from some of the other Hondas and didnt change. A mechanic friend said its the head gasket leak. Some of the pressure from the combustion chamber blows thru reaching the coolant and a rad cap is not meant for this high pressure of coarse. Sometimes when i check on it the res is full right to the brim and the rad is low. I dont really seem to lose much coolant or have smoke tho. Its as if its a one way street that way. I considered getting a higher pressure cap, but that may be asking for trouble. I should check my fan again but if the temp doesnt rise it shouldnt matter. It only rises doing donuts etc. So i keep an eye on temp then because i dont keep refilling my rad every week or month. I tried part bottle irontite head gasket sealer the other day didnt seem to work. Have u tried anything like this? To seal high pressure is asking too much from these bottles i think. Might try something else tho. Anyway car was $200, still pulls hard, takes a beating on the daily for years now. not planning to spend to fix it right, as it runs now as if its got decades of life left. Manual too. Literally only cost was oil and filters and cheap brakes.🏁🏁😎👍
You have combustion leaking into the cooling system due to a bad head gasket. It's a very minor leak in your case, and as long as you keep your eye on the coolant level you should be ok, until it gets worse and you have to start filling up the radiator every day. Try some blue devil, it works well for small head gasket leaks like yours.
I tried to look through comments to see if you ever updated with the diagnoses but only found what it could be. Did you ever get add actual answer to what the issue was/is?
Engine is still running and I just keep checking the fluids every few days. I havent had an official diagnostic. Pretty sure its Head gasket and gases seeping into system. Engine is still hanging on so I keep driving. Owned for 19 years! srry I could help more. cheers
@@kidwilson3357 Maybe drain a bit of the coolent out completely of the radiator, and you can attatch a vacuum fitting to the radiator drain port and try and pull vacuum from there, see if it holds and radiator cap vacuum valves opens at what ever inches of mercury it needs like 5. Also maybe even start it real quick and try and pull vacuum then. Can pinch off stuff like radiator hoses to block to see if the radiator can hold vacuum, test the cap and overflow tank, then you know it has to be somewhere from the block. I've tried to think where to pull vacuum from radiator and can not think of anything except the radiator drain plug. But that would confirm at least like, there the block is somewhere's leaking vacuum, or maybe only when running. Also there is leak down test, you basically hook shop air up to the sparkplug hole and see where air comes out. Makes it so like engine is running, should be bubble into radiator and then you know. Head gasket is easy enough, but issue is with honda are they are aluminum blocks. (well steel sleeve, aluminum block). So that stuff deforms different when heats up because different mentals.
Hey guys...the solution to this problem is the radiator cover/cap...any cap cannot work on any radiator...I had a plastic radiator at 1st, I change to a metal now, but I used my old cap and I had the same problem u guys are having...whatever radiator you have now you need to get a cap that can take the pressure of that radiator, or simply get the original cap for whatever radiator you are using...if you try it, can you give me an update if it worked please, thanks
Sound like a bad head gasket. Coolant would cause blue smoke when burnt and the gases cant escape so they are over pressurizing the rad and pushing coolant to res tank. Just my opinion though
My Car is still running,. I am 99% its the head gasket and piston rings. Im sure at this point I need valve gasket too. Over 300,000 miles. i just check the radiator every few days. My car is def gonna need some work but all of you out there, at least know if you are havinig this problem, just make sure you are checking the fluid every few days. You car might be able to last a while to before changing the head gasket!
@@kidwilson3357 Did you check the hose that takes fluid from your reservoir to radiator? I checked mine and it has some sort of fibrous/cotton material choking it. I cleaned it yesterday and will also keep looking at the fluid levels. This happened to me as I used a market additive to stop leakages and it formed sludge and chocked it (probably)
@@Attaurrehmanable I was also thinking that zip tie may not be providing enough pressure on the hose to maintain a vacuum which is required to suck the coolant back in when it cools down.
@@kidwilson3357 If you perform a chemical block test with the blue liquid that turns yellow when you squeeze the bulb, you'd be 100% certain about the head gasket. Do a compression test (dry or wet) and you'd be 100% certain about the piston rings. O'Reilly or AutoZone has free compression test kit loaners.
You’re car burns Oil , I can tell from the smoke coming out of the Exhaust pipe , so it could be a bad head cylinder with bad gasket or piston rings loos , so far now in 2020 what did find the problem was ?
Did you check the the little neck that goes into the expansion tube to the expansion tank. On my MDX, mine was cracked. I put some epoxy on it and braced it up.
I am having the same issue with my daughters jeep Patriot, except no bubbles or smog, but the coolant overflow and does not go back to the radiator, have a brand new radiator and 2 thermostat, still trying to figure it out, I already bled the system twice
I have a 91 Acura integra car won’t circulate coolant as in the intake hose to the engine from the bottom of the radiator will not pressurize as well as the coolant boil to my reservoir after I take a test run after the coolant gauge reads operating temp I’ve already removed the thermostat to see if it’s rusted it new looking not sure why the hoses won’t pressurize at the in and out of the radiator
Im not sure bro. When you get it figured out, come back and leave a comment so others might get some help with the same issue. Good luck with the problem.
@@thejoseandresshow another question. Do I fill up the Overflow tank at Full level or Low level. Because I heard 2 different things from different RU-vidr. Thanks
CHECK TOP AND BOTTOM RADIATOR HOSES BOTH MUST BE HOT BUT IF THE LOWER HOSE IS COLD THE PROBLEM COULD BE THE THERMOSTAT : it’s not opening stayed close and the water does not flowing by all the cooling system .question did you flushed your cooling system before ?
Jose Blass it could also be the head gasket because what you just said was the exact same thing that happened to my g35 the lower radiator hose wasn’t getting any pressure one of the causes for that is because hot gases are coming from the exhaust and it pressurizes the system including the thermostat and it keeps the thermostat closed because there is too much pressure
If you car is 15 years old, could be the hose clamps. The clamps are not tight enough and although no coolant is coming out from the hoses, the failing clamps are allowing air to enter from the hoses into the coolant.
Cooling system is pressurized, to 15PSI. That means, if your hose clamps were not tight, the coolant would have a leak, air would enter to replace the lost coolant, but this wouldn't cause the overflow bottle coolant level to raise. The overflow bottle level is likely to drop in the case of a plain coolant leak.
Exactly. I suspect that is what is happening with my car, the upper hose clamp isn't sealing completely. I can see it "sweating" . Sometimes some drops come out.
Hey guys...the solution to this problem is the radiator cover/cap...any cap cannot work on any radiator...I had a plastic radiator at 1st, I change to a metal now, but I used my old cap and I had the same problem u guys are having...whatever radiator you have now you need to get a cap that can take the pressure of that radiator, or simply get the original cap for whatever you are using...if you try it, can you give me an update if it worked please, thanks
I figure you've probably solved the issue or sold the car by now, however to answer all your questions: 1) Your coolant issue is likely caused by the headgasket or a small leak in the cooling system. Cooling systems need to be AIR tight as well as water tight or you will experience this issue. To find the problem, you should rent a cooling system pressure tester from your local autoparts store. You pump up the cooling system to its max pressure, you should be able to find the leak this way. IF you cant find a leak and the pressure is dropping, its likely a small leak in the head gasket. The reason this is happening is because coolant expands when hot, thats why there is so much space in your overflow bottle. However if the system is not air tight, instead of sucking coolant from the bottle, air will be sucked in from the leak. Its really not such a big deal, because once the car is warmed up again the coolant will expand and the air will be forced out. Its only a big problem if you have an actual liquid leak. 2) your blue smoke on accel is definitely piston rings or valves. I'd recommend making this your top priority to fix as it will cause lots of excess carbon buildup, ruin your catalytic converter in your exhaust, and cause a load of other issues if not taken care of.
i have a 94 grand cherokee with the 318.. chqnged out my thermostat and waterpump but my top hose is not getting nun of the antifreeze wtf could that be please help me lolim pissed
9/10 is more likely air trapped in the system due to improper bleeding or a leak that introduces air. Go start every car you can with the cap off and you will see bubbles during warm up. Completely normal due to vehicle engines fluctuate hot and cold on a daily basis which easily sucks in air through the radiator cap or vent hose.
yea man oil is dropping down throght seals or rings. Im prob gonna rebuild head soon. LS V tec possibly. I think the antifreeze is not coming back due to vacumme leak, Clogged heater core or maybe water pump seal... I will update when i figure it out. I just had to swap Transmission yesterday,. Old one broke on me at 275,000. TKs for the repl;y
now what the major problem . coolant to reservoir but not back to radiator . new thermostat ,and radiator radiator fan running good .no overheating......
fans work, ac works, no overheating. thermostat is good. Its prob headgasket and needs valve seal and rings. It keep chugging along I keep driving. Cheers and tks for comment