If you already know what tools you need an how to tear the system down, just skip ahead to the removal. This is the second video in a series of five. I highly suggest watching them in order. Timestamps: Tools: 0:29 Teardown: 3:30 HDD Cage Removal: 5:44 Conclusion: 10:35
@@razaaali Yep, the board is a standard micro ATX pattern and can be swapped into another case. The mounting point for the heat sink, unlike an equivalent HP's, is also standard so you can mount any 115x compatible cooler. However, to get the power switch working, you're going to have to figure out the correct pins up top. I don't have a video on that and don't know if I will do one, but thankfully, Greg Salazar has done one that can get you sorted. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TYRjgUojBnc.html Also, if you're using a 3020, 7020 or 9020 and you need to swap the PSU, you'll need a converter for the main ATX power, and this is the one that I've used for a few of these. amzn.to/2J5RtJs
@Chabbaquq Yahudah Yahisreal What I said in the video was that the SATA ports as well as the USB3 will interfere with any GPU over about 8.5". Some people have gotten around this by using right angle SATA cables and just leave the front USB3 unplugged. However, this means you cold only use two of the three SATA ports. Also, I've talked to some people that have tried this and it doesn't work. It seems it's dependent on the GPU and it's shroud. However, since making this video I've found some low profile SATA cable that might be able to allow you to use all three SATA ports regardless of the GPU as well as a USB3 cable that will allow you to keep the front USB3 as well.
Removed mine tonight and couldn’t figure out what was still holding it. I went back to this video and realized about the 4 that hold it to the back wall of the case. I was actually able to just use a regular drill bit and no extension myself, but I put the bit into the drill just enough for it to hold in order to make the bit “longer” and reach inside the cage
@Inareth That bracket I cut out was never intended for mounting a HDD. If you want to see where they all go, watch my latest video. I go over all that. This was all meant to be part of a five part series.
@Inareth Now all I can see is Chuck Norris doing a round house kick to an OptiPlex out of a window, falling 30 floors, and smashing into the pavement. Oh, and because it's an 80's action movie type fall... it explodes halfway down for no apparent reason. Really though, that was my suspicion as well, that it was left over from the days of the floppy drive or a card reader. That being said, when I cut them out in the fan video, I told people it's just an aesthetic choice if you got plans for it or don't care, leave em' in.
I just upgraded from a GTX 670 to RTX 2070 in this Optiplex 9020. Glad to see this video because I found out the new GPU wouldn't fit! Thank you for this!
Yep, that's what started all this. Bought a hadful of them to flip as gaming PC's. Quickly found the GPU's didn't fit and 10 minutes later, the HDD cage was out and I started planning this video series. I'm glad you found it useful.
Didn’t want to get rid of the HDD cage on my Precision T1700 AM5 build, but there was just no way around it. You’re right about having the proper drill bits. I have an extension arm, but my cheapo Ryobi bits are rounded at the base. I ended up brute forcing the innermost rivets.
Great drilling technique sir! When drilling, as opposed to screwing, the drill should only be spinning in the forward drive. Once the hole is bored, the drill bit is designed to be pulled out while being rotated in the same drive in order to burr out stray material. When people reverse the drill bit to pull it out, it also damages the cutting edge of the drill, which heats it up and may cause the bit to snap. It always hurts me physically when people reverse the drill drive!!
I have an older case (not nearly as old as that one), but it was designed for max 285mm videocards. Thankfully the hard drive cage at the front of the case was easily removable, I think this particular case (Lian Li PC-9F) was built with some future-proofing in mind.
That was pretty forward thinking. Good for use as a server or a gaming system. Just needs a little black paint and you might think it was a brand new case. Back when I was running a 2600K for my main rig I was using a Lian Li PC-7FNWX. Loved that case.
I have a Dell 990 I have had for years that I simply used tin-snips (Home Depot $10 Aviation Tin-Snip) to cut out the drive cage. Not as pretty looking as your suggestion, but cheap and fast, as I did not have to take the case apart. With a PSU upgrade I run a full size RX580 in it, but have also ran a Vega64 in it too.
@@TheGameBench Yeh, I have not had any problems, but caution should be taken, might not be a good option for everyone. I actually only cut out 1/2 the drive cage, leaving the bottom slot for another HD. I don't monkey around inside it much as it is upgraded as much as will ever be: i7ver. wSSD, 32GB,RX580,x2 spinningHD, DVDRW (almost all are spare parts from other builds) Anyway great videos, thanks for presenting sensible options, cheers!
I've watched a ton of videos on the Optiplex. You are the first one to deal straightforwardly with the Intrusion Switch. You just solved my problem! Thanks!
Got my first one modded. Great instructions. I think the hardest/worse part is dealing with all the aluminum shavings from drilling. lol I did the drilling outside on my driveway but didn't like all the shaving on there. You know for those who like to go barefoot. Good thing I got a good shop vac.
That's why I prefer Lenovo ThinkStations for these kinds of builds - tool-less drive cages. Two clips and they are out of the case, no power tools and no hassle.
I built my first desktop way back in 2000 with the new AMD Duron with all the parts from Newegg and Tiger Direct and I've always loved tinkering with computers. Sadly my local Surplus Exchange closed late last winter which was a treasure trove of used junk. I did get a Dell Inspiron 560 for $20 and the Dell Optiplex 9020 for $25 (minus hard drives). Also a GTX 660 for $15 which I managed to squash into the 9020 and got a Windows Experience Index of 7.6. That's funny. But my newest game is from 2014 so...
I used a nibbler to cut a hole for the fan. Turned out a little ragged, but it's much more open to airflow now. I probably get more from the 92mm fan that I put in there than you get from a 120 without cutting a hole, but of course the best is to cut a hole for a 120. You lose some structural integrity doing that, or course, so don't sit on your case once you do this :) I used a nibbler because I didn't want to buy a dremel. I've also used a nibbler to remove a grille in front of a PSU fan, as the PSU also has one and two grilles, in addition to the filter, just impede air flow. For the drive cage removal, I just angled the drill in there. I didn't need a bit extension.
No question, you're getting more airflow. I just wanted to give people the easiest option. You know, for a beginner. Just ask a beginner what a nibbler is, and they'd probably have no clue what you're talking about. I've wanted an excuse to buy one. Cutting a hole for a side panel might be the perfect excuse. That being said, I'm going to do a higher end build and I had decided to cut a hole for the fan as an alternative.
I was told I’d have to do some modding if I reuse my old Dell Optiplex 780 tower but I’ve upgraded it so much now it’s a great home computer. I just might have to get a totally dead tower on the cheap. I like the building challenge.
LOL. But it is actually possible with just a flathead screw driver. I've run into models that aren't pressed in at the back. Instead they used slots. All the other ones can be take out with a flat head and a hammer.
@@KINGPHANTOMw85 Yes, I've seen that in the 7010 and 9010 MT, but I've seen just as many of those with the pressed on cages at the back like in the video.
It's nice to see people build their PC. I'm personally really new into PC build so I don't know much about the systems, hardware, wattage calculation, and more. So um I have an Dell Optiplex 980 and I was thinking about upgrading it. The plan is about to upgrading the processor, GPU, RAM, and obviously the PSU. I have a problem to decide which GPU fits best because the heat sink is really cost a lot of space. I was wondering if GTX 750 Ti or GTX 1050 Ti would be the best I can get but then again the size of it's heat sink is way too huge. Do you have any suggestion for the GPU ? It would be perfect if you could suggest a GTX 1050 Ti with a specific models or manufacturers or even the single/dual fan.
Yeah, that heat sink is a real problem. The Tech Power Up GPU database has length information on a lot of GPUs that can help. I would avoid anything that makes contact with the heat sink. Especially if it doesn't have a back plate. However, you can use the bottom PCIe slot, but I would guess it's only wired as an x4, which isn't a big deal for something like a 1050 Ti or a 1650. Won't make a difference for a 750 Ti. Now, which GPU would be a good pairing depends on the CPU. If it's an i5, nothing more than about the 1050 Ti. If it's an i7 I'd say a 1060 6GB or a 1660 might be the best you want to go with. I wish I had one of those first gen CPU's to test with.
I'm thinking about doing this to a Precision T1600. It wasn't mentioned but I think it's the same chassis, or very similar. Only hangup I have is that I'd like to be able to reinstall the cage later with screws and nuts. I'm hoping that crossbar that got ripped out in the video is optional. I will eventually upgrade my gaming PC to a newer board in a "normal" case, at which point I might want the drive cage back in this one.
Thanks! I found this actually to be a bit of a PITA (took forever to get through the bottom plastic), but I think that's because I was using a standard bit for the smaller pemserts; that's the only thing I had that would fit. I still got it done, and if the bit needs to be replaced due to damage, I am not too concerned right now; I have used that set twice in about 20 years, and I can't imagine when I'd need it again.
I'm crying heavy Canadian tears, the price for these things is over the top. I see 7020 with i5 4gb RAM no HDD for over 300$. On eBay shipping fees are 50 bucks and then I would have to pay import fees around 13%. Am I doing something wrong?
That's nothing new, at least here in the U.S. Plenty of people asking $300 and up for them and those people are nuts. You'd be better off building a new system with even a 1st gen Ryzen over this. I'm finding that they've gone up a little, but you can still get good deal on the auctions. I'm amazed that people are paying $150 for these things. You just have to be patient to get the deals. The more people that pay absurd prices, the less we'll be able to find them for reasonable prices. That being said, a good alternative is the HP z230. I would tick to the same prices, and at close to $300, you mind as well just get an i7 with 16GB and a 1 to 2TB HDD.
@@TheGameBench yeah, this is crazy. These people must be looking for them 24/7. I do check on those things daily. It's not like I have high hopes or expectations, I find it interesting. Haven't seen any HP Z230 yet but some Lenovo ThjnkCentre for around that price. Maybe it'd be interesting for you too? Currently I'm looking into getting parts and build an open case pc, to display it and tinker with it. Thinking about using 2x PSU's(~250-300Watts) for one to run GPU, the other powering the system. Also place GPU on other side of MB with an PCI extension. Haven't seen this yet, might turn out in a decent build, might as well not haha. Keep up your work! Very informative and entertaining to me. Cheers
@@vinade2100 Well, I can tell you that I can go a month or more between finding them for a good price. I refuse to pay more than $120 for one of them. More than that and I'll just get a 7010/9010 with a 3770 for around $160. That being said, I highly suggest against the dual PSU setup. I mean, you can make it work, but it's convoluted. Especially when it's easy to find a good 500 PSU for around $40 to $50.
The problem with an Optiplex, or a HP Prodesk or other similar corporate PC is the PSU is often Bespoke and does not offer any power for GPU's. Typically i have found the GT720 2GB is about the biggest card you can get that does not need additional power.
Actually, there are 1050 Ti models that don't require dedicated PCIe power that run just fine. I have one in an HP ProDesk 600 G1 SFF with a 240 watt PSU. With a 4690K, it'a max total system power draw at a full system load was just under 130 watts. As for the xx20 series OptiPlex's, they have a 290 watt PSU and I've measured the power draw from the wall with these as well. You're fine up to about an RX480/RX570 or a GTX 1060/1660. Anything above that, and I would agree that a higher wattage PSU is a must.
I love watching you do this stuff but I'm just not industrious enough.. by the time I got all those parts detached I'd be browsing for a replacement case. 😂
I did not want to take everything out, but the reasoning was sound. I had to talk myself into it. The whole reason I bought the Dell was to avoid building a PC, after all! I had worked in desktop support during the capacitor fiasco, and after hundreds of motherboard replacements (I'm not exaggerating at all; my employer had thousands of PCs, and the capacitor issues went on for years), I'd had enough of that kind of experience to last me a lifetime. I procrastinated for a week after watching the video, but when I dove in and did it, it honestly wasn't that bad.
@@TheGameBench People seem avoidant to upgrading the PSU which is one of the lower cost parts in an Optiplex upgrade. It's the first thing I do. I try and find a modular PSU with 550 to 650 watts minimum. These can always be used in the next Optiplex one upgrades if they accept that future assignment. I keep my eyes out for a 9020, why not.
Great video and thanks! Watching you do this I'd say you have some drill skillz (pro quality Dewalt cordless doesn't hurt either). That being said I think a drill noob should definitely proceed with the utmost caution. While there certainly is no shortage of tech tubers, your no bs no hype approach is a bit rarer, and much appreciated.
Thanks! I keep hearing that you should amp up your personality two times for RU-vid... and I'm fine just being myself. And yeah, you def need some finesse with the drill with these suckers.
@@TheGameBench Keep it up, even with good content some of those hyped-up and overproduced channels can be hard to take. They also have can tun ten minutes of content into a twenty-minute ordeal, what a yawn.
0:17 does the MSI armour rx570 8gb oc fit into an optiplex MT (7010 for example) without any modifications, it's under 10 inches so it should fit but I was wondering if anyone actually tried it before I buy it, if not I'll order a new drill.
It's possible that you could fit it in without removing he HDD cage, but it's right on the edge. Just be careful that you don't damage the mobo with the I/O bracket while trying to shoe horn it in there. That being said, one way or another, you'll need to use some low profile SATA and USB3 cables since the GPU will overhang the SATA and USB3 ports.
Yep, I know. There are some models where the HDD cage isn't pinch riveted to the back of the case, and this method works great for those. Which I hadn't run into when I made this video. But it's not a great option to get it out cleanly where it is pinch riveted to the back. Not saying it won't work, but you're going to have to tear it out of there, and it's not likely to come out without mangling some stuff up.
love your stuff man I did this today with rite along with your video in the garage to fit my rog 1070 and it went just ike you said it would, bluescreened at about 5 and have just now recovered but that was my fault. I think these Optiplex's are very underrated, the Honda civic of computers almost. i hope more people start doing things with these like you and Zach's Tech Turf. im not sure if you can trick this mobo to overclock or not but i know in another video you said if bios (forgive me if im wrong) A18 would let it use the 4790k.
I watched your video and just bought dell optiplex 9020 with i7 for a great price on facebook marketplace. I'll have some gaming fun with it and later will convert it to unraid server. Thanks man .
i wouldnt mind seeing a video where you put the guts in a cheap case for better airflow,keep in mind part of the attraction of these is there budget friendly value,so i could see someone going over board and killing that factor really fast,quick question...are the power and reset button proprietary ?
Yeah, I don't feel like putting these parts in another case is worth your time unless you find a super cheap case that doesn't have the structural integrity of tinfoil. Just about anything worth swapping into is going to kill the value aspect. The power button is proprietary, but easy enough to figure out which two pins are for the power switch and LED and you can plug the headers from a aftermarket case into those pins. There is no reset switch on these.
@@TheGameBench i found this is why i was asking to be honest PrevNext Marketplace› Electronics & Computers lot of 30x pc cases. Cooler Master Masterbox lite 3 McLean, VA · over a week ago · $15 I have a lot of 30+ pcs of masterbox lite 3 matx pc cases. Brand new in box with all accesories.... More Condition New he said he would ship for $10 more,i might buy two of them,this is a great deal imo
@@meemadd6397 Not a bad case for $25, but it doesn't look like it will have the best airflow... then again, I'm having trouble finding any solid info on it.
I'm glad I could help. It was literally the first thing I did when I started working on these. It was in the way of the 480 I was trying to install. Fifteen minutes later.... it was gone.
@@miniaturemage For the 580, absolutely. The power supply would most likely go into overcurrent protection and shut off. A good replacement option would be something like an EVGA BR series, and I'd suggest at least a 500 watt if you're replacing it. If you have a 20 series model, XE2, Precision T1700 or a similar Vostro with the 8-pin main power connection, you'll also need an adapter. Power Supply: www.amazon.com/EVGA-100-BR-0500-K1-Bronze-Power-Supply/dp/B07DTMXD83/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=EVGA+500BR&qid=1611601198&sr=8-1 xx20 Series Adapter: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CJ411ZL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the video that I'm looking for. I have an optiplex 9020 i7 4790.planning to upgrade into a gaming pc. Is there a video continuation to this were u put all together also with its upgrades. This video was very helpful to me.at first I'm planning to send my unit into a computershop which most likely charge more.this video tells me I can do it myself. Thank you so much! Subscribed!
My optiplex 980 has a big ass cpu fan, and a big chunky corner, so im very limited with gpu space. Ill try to cut the chunky corner off, without cutting the lock of the chassie off. Hopefully that will make me fit a 1650 in here :p
I've watch all the Optiplex videos in this series and I'm still exactly sure if the GTX 1060 requires the removal of the Hard drive cage. I'd prefer not to do all that drilling, so can the 1060 fit?
There are models that will fit. I believe the Asus Dual will. The Zotac Mini will for sure. The EVGA SC model is also a good option. I think MSI even has a single fan 1060 you could go with, but I don't suggest that one. Anything under 9.5 inches will fit for sure.
@@TheGameBench Many thanks for your reply and apologies for my illiterate first message, I typed it in a hurry! I will look at those models of the 1060. Are there any real differences between those models or is it just a matter of getting the length right? Also, I can't seem to find solid info on which SATA port to use for the SSD. Following general advice I used SATA port 3 and mounted the drive in the 5.25 bay under the DVD drive. You mentioned that using the blue SATA port was optimal. Is there going to be any performance difference? Thanks again!
@@moonwhistle No worries. There will be perofrmance differences, as they have varying clock speeds. TechPowerUp has a nice GPU database that will show clock speeds on various models as well as lenghts on most. For most, the difference will be minimal, but there are some that are pretty bad. For example, the single fan EVGA SC has an identical looking model that's a non SC that runs at a much lower clock and has a terrible cooler. And you want to avoid those. There also come in 6GB and 3GB models, so make sure on that as well, as the 3GB models have less Cuda cores are a bit slower that the 6GB models. As to the SSD, depends on the model. Most of the MT models, save for the 390 and 3010, have two SATA3 ports and the beige ones are SATA2 which will hold an SSD back, so plug it into the blue or black SATA ports if you can. However, a HDD can run off the SATA2 ports without being held back.
Watching this in August of 2021 is super frustrating because I want to start doing this again, but the GPU market is so completely screwed up that it's just not feasible. I could snag a 1060 and pay wayyyy too much for it, but then I'd have to charge way too much for the finished product that it'll be super hard to sell. Maybe one day...
You and me both. I've got a bunch of systems in my back room just because I can't sell them in the current situation. Thinking about grabbing a 980 or a 980 Ti and seeing how that goes. Seems to be about the most reasonable deal in GPU's right now. It will get better at some point... I just don't know if the demand for these systems will be there.
@@TheGameBench I recently was able to snag a 960 4GB for not too much and put it in a system that I then sold. Haven't been able to repeat that success, though. Now every 960 I see is touching $190+ BEFORE shipping. It's just not worth it.
Ha, I had just watched your previous Optiplex video this afternoon! Slight case modding is pretty fun, managed to drill out holes on a Dell XPS 8300 to be able to hold a 2.5´´ drive as it could not before. Not a hard mod or anything but still, bit proud of it lol
Exactly. It's interesting how none of the other videos, that I've seen, have done this. The first OptiPlex I got, I didn't do my research, and the GPU wouldn't fit. About 10 minutes later, the HDD cage was out. Makes such a difference.
Ah, thank you very mulch for the help. I was trying the Net Guy's technique, but just drilling the outer rivets didn't cut it. Breaking the bar in the middle of the cage, then reaching in with the drill to catch the other four rivets did the trick. It's gone at last... but I didn't remove the components from the system before I attempted this, which worries me a touch. Only one way to find out if it functions!
So I tried this it removes the size problem but the front usb wire is to thick, will the pc work without the front usb ports or will it say that it cant boot?
Yep, it will work just fine with it unplugged. However, if you want to be able to use them, you can get a cable that will fit. This is the only one that I've found that isn't a pile of crap. EVGA used to make one, but they're now directing people to this one. www.moddiy.com/products/USB-3.0-20-Pin-Internal-Header-Adapter-Cable-Low-Profile-Connector.html
@@TheStratus Which R9 270? Most of them will fit without removing the HDD cage, but there are some models that won't. As for the SATA power, that's highly dependent on which model.
@@TheStratus Okay, I'm looking at this from every angle and I can only think of three options that are going to work. The first being to replace the power supply, and then you can just remove the cable. The second option that's still not jank would be to remove the backplate on the GPU and that would make it a little more flexible. The third option I do not recommend, and that would be to shave down that edge on the connector. I don't suggest this because it would expose the pins and they would short on the backplate for sure so you'd have to seal it off somehow to keep it from shorting.
Sure, but the speed isn't going to be as fast over USB3. That's if it's a USB3 drive and the model you have has USB3. USB2 would be tough to deal with.
I have the 9010 and the hard drive case wasnt the issue, the SATA connectors being so close to the PCI slot was the problem. IF you guys saw what i did to make my GPU fit youd probably cringe, i made an amd RX 570 xxx edition fit in there
Yeah, I talked about that in the video before this. I really need to do a video about how to get around the SATA and USB3 port. Did you hack up your GPU shroud or something?
LOVE the series ! question , on a tight budget , I'm going to do this mod but aittle short on money to put a fan in , will the components over heat ? plan to just game a lot
@@mattparker9726 Yeah, I would feel like my energy could be spent elsewhere. I'm kinda' on the fence about doing an idiotic mod on a SFF 9020 with and externally mounted GPU.
You can use an ICY DOCK Dual 2.5 SSD 1 x 3.5 HDD Device Bay to 5.25 Drive Bay Converter / Mount / Kit / Adapter - FLEX-FIT Trio MB343SP www.newegg.com/icy-dock-mb343sp-2-5-3-5-drives-to-5-25-bay/p/N82E16817994163?Description=icy%20dock&cm_re=icy_dock-_-17-994-163-_-Product in the extra 5.25" drive bay for ssd drive and harddrive.
All that stuff I'll have to take out... I won't remember where all that goes. No way. How much worse are the smaller graphics cards? The GTX 1660 you talked about, it's still better than the Intel HD 4600 that came with mine, right? I've never really experienced anything faster than that. My computer struggles to play games from 2010+, so if I can play more modern games at at least 30-40 fps, I'll consider that a win
Not any computer. There are OEM systems that have limitations on them that prevent adding a dedicated GPU, or at least anything that would be considered a gaming GPU. In these OptiPlex systems, you don't have any of those limitations, but as these are older CPU's, there's a point where going with a higher end GPU doesn't make sense. For example, in my testing, with the i7 4790 the 1080 Ti didn't make any sense to buy over the 1080 at 1080p. So, with enough power, you CAN install any GPU you want inn one of these, but it might not make sense to do so.
Love the content and your videos have really helped me with my Optiplex build. I got a 7010 before finding your videos unfortunately but so far I have made it work for me. I am facing a minor problem right now , I was able to install a GTX 1070 XLR8 OC without any case mods to speak of. I had to sacrifice front USB 3.0. I am now trying to add a 3rd hard drive and get my disk drive working , but I can’t seem to find sata cables short enough to fit under my GPU. The SATA cables that came with my PC just barely clear however I can’t get an accurate measurement. The SATA cables that I purchased have a right angle to straight. Right angle being .8inches and the straight head being 1inch. Both are too long to fit under the GPU. Do you happen to know what sata cables would work for my situation? I would prefer to use the same cables for each SATA slot , I would be utilizing all 4. If you provide me with an amazon link I’ll be sure to purchase it :) . Keep up with the quality content , you’ve earned yourself a new subscriber and I’ve shown many people your videos
Sorry, this is probably at least a week and a half late. These are what I use with the xx10 models. For the drives on the bottom of the case: www.amazon.com/Silverstone-90-Degree-Low-Profile-Connectors-CP11B-300/dp/B00KTLGDGA/ref=sr_1_3?crid=NDIIJ0JQ5JVC&dchild=1&keywords=silverstone+low+profile+sata+cable&qid=1599453742&sprefix=Solverstone+low%2Caps%2C216&sr=8-3 For the drives at the top of the case: www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-SST-CP11B-500-Low-Profile-Connectors/dp/B00KTLGDZG/ref=sr_1_1?crid=NDIIJ0JQ5JVC&dchild=1&keywords=silverstone+low+profile+sata+cable&qid=1599453742&sprefix=Solverstone+low%2Caps%2C216&sr=8-1 Also, you can use this for the USB3 port: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083XDQSWT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm not bog on Lenovo's since they're so hit or miss on being able to modify them. Some of their models are limited in the BIOS as to what GPU's can be installed. I know not all of them are like this, but it just turned me off of being interested in them all together. Looking at the E73 on eBay, they all seem to be i3's or low power i5's, so the S models. Honestly, I would avoid anything with the S CPU's for gaming. They're not worth close to $100 with one of those i5's.
Good to know. I had wondered since they weren't like traditional rivets and look like they're set with heat, almost like a spot weld as they expand in the hole? I'm sure I'm totally wrong about that. My knowledge is obviously pretty limited here.
@@TheGameBench nope press fit into a precision sized hole - the press fit distorts the sheet metal around the knurled section on the pemsert. They're a great way to attach stuff to sheet metal. The downside is they're usually installed via a $$$$ pemsert press.
Hey man, thanks for the content. Watching this totally got me in the groove to make a gaming pc for my son this Christmas. I’m actually going back together with it but I’m having an issue with the temperature sensor placement (since I added the 140mm fan also, I had to order a 3 pin fan to molex adapter). Where did you place yours on the front cage?
@@MrRazor7sk Yeah, I go over that in my latest video. Here's a link to that time stamp. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-snUV0wGPnPk.html
You could use a hammer and a chisel or a bulky flat head screw driver and bust the ends off the rivets. However, if the cage is pressed in at the rear, that's going to be hard to do without drilling them, but I've heard from people that have just ripped it out. But I caution that could bend some things up if you're not careful. There are some models that have tabs you can bend out at the rear with the flat head, and then just lift it up and out once you've removed all the other rivets, which should be easy if you've got one of those models. Regardless, it's definitely possible without drilling.
I can add that to my list of things. After the budget build I will be doing a more high end build. I've even toyed with the idea of an absurd build in one.
Working on the fan video right now. As for the drive, I'll cover that in the build video, but I just mount them using a couple of 3M Command poster strips. They hold it solid and come off relatively easy if needed.
Hi.please help me. My case is optiplex 3000 tower 2023. But for upgrade for gaming i dont khonw wich psu and gpu is ok with my case? For 500 or 600 watt and 8 gb or 4 gb pgu
So long as you have the tools to do it, I would say this is fairly intermediate. I would say a 4 or 5. The worst part is that you just need to take it slow on those rear rivets that hold the cage to the back of the case. You might get lucky with those on some xx10 models, maybe other, where they're not riveted. Seems there are some that are slotted in at the rear rather than riveted.
Well, the 990 has a standard 24-pin on the motherboard, so it's as simple as swapping the factory PSU with the new one. Pretty straight forward. No converters needed. However, I've got plans to do some other builds where I will be replacing the power supplies.
I would. Removing the cage is going to create loose metal which can find it's way between the motherboard. So if you don't, you run the risk of creating a short and damaging the motherboard.
Hey thanks for the great video man! Will a longer card cover the SATA ports in the 990 MT? It wasnt mentioned in your optiplex video and I have seen other videos where people put long cards in them but it is hard to see if it covers the SATA ports.
It's hard to tell from the pictures, but I just got one in today for testing and, yeah, they're in the way. Might be fine with certain cards, depending on the fan shroud. If it's a problem, Silverstone has some low profile SATA cables that should clear and let you use all of the ports.
@@TheGameBench will a 10 inch gpu covers the sata ports in 7010mt will it make sata ports unusable, Thinking of getting a msi 1650 super gaming x. Your prompt reply is appreciated 😊
@@farhansalim3143 So for the slow response. Yes, anything over 8.5 inches will overhang the SATA ports. However, they're not unusable. You'd just need low profile cables.
Okay, so it looks like the RX 480 I have on the bench, but it has a smaller PCB. I would say that it should fit without removing the HDD cage. It will be a pretty tight fit. Since it's a 990, you'll probably need some low profile or right angled SATA cables as well.
The only one I've found that wasn't complete trash was from EVGA, but they stopped selling it and now they're telling people to get this one: www.moddiy.com/products/USB-3.0-20-Pin-Internal-Header-Adapter-Cable-Low-Profile-Connector.html
How do i put my driver back in..? I want to tinker with my pc to fit this gtx 970 which is 10.5 inches. But before i do that i want to know all i can. Is there a process when you put everything back and show us the end result..?
Yeah, I didn't make it very clear in the video, but this was one part of a series. I go over installing the hard drive and mounting an SSD in that video. Here's a link to the section where I go over that. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-snUV0wGPnPk.html
