Adjust the Gas / Idle Mixture Screws on Your Edelbrock Carburetor 

Much appreciated...

The people in this video are my neighbors nephews

Because it’s over simplified. You should use a vacuum gauge.

Glad to help..

Ronanigans 😂😂😂😂 damn true mate.

Mine too 😂

+Rich B. hey Sir i have a question? is it true that fuel injector save fuel? if so whats the percentage compare to carburetor?

The difference between modern fuel injection and carbs is night and day. Cold engine performance is where FI shines. Carbs are also susceptible to vapor lock in the summer. The bad thing about FI is if it breaks on the the side of the road call a tow truck. A carb can be fixed with basic hand tools.

+Rich B. Well said...

exactly, thank you!

Right, those other fucks want you to buy extra shit to do a simple task...

Good advice.. Thanks..

You may have it "Over" carburated

Hi Chuck.. No there is not a spring on the side of the carburetor. The round black choke housing has a temperature sensitive spring of sorts in side of it the may be at fault. Give Edelbrock a call & they should be able to set you up with that part if needed.

Yes, you have a 500 cfm carb.

It will work but carbs. that are too big will not give extra power and at some point cause some run ability issues. I have several 350 Chev. engines with two Edelbrock four barrel carbs. which are nearly three times the carburation needed but work just fine except at low RPM's where the engine will hesitate if the throttle is floored. The extra carb. doesn't make a quicker 1/4 mile time but looks good.

1405 is 600 cfm

The idle mixture circuit kicks in at about 1250 rpm. So you have plenty of leeway. Start by putting the idle at about 850 rpm. Make your idle mixture circuit adjustments and then lower the idle screw if the idle climbs. Repeat the process until the idle works for you. Your transmissions torque converter is locking up too early. You need to get a "higher stall" converter to help eliminate the harsh transition into gear you are experiencing .

yes

The air comes thru the big opening at the top of the carburator, turning the screws clockwise shuts the gas flow at idle. No, it wont do much for highway driving.

GunfightersINC It sounds like it could be the distributor points and condenser just replace them

The circuit or passageway is clogged that controls that side of the carburetor. You can try removing the screw with the engine off and blowing some air thru the hole. This may clear the circuit. Good luck!

4 to 7 psi . Its is always good to run a fuel regulator too.

Chris Ingrassia OK thanks, I have a bypass regulator connected

I would call Edelbrock & tell them what your experiencing.

Run the screws in & then back them out three full turns each. Start the engine & work from there.

@@MustangRestorationsInc ok I just needed a base setting no body actually tells you where to start from thanks

+65musthavechrome..... You got a bad carburetor

+Chris “The Doc” Ingrassia , what's the fix? what is the problem exactly?

+65musthavechrome Something inside the carburetor is letting in too much gas or its too big for the engine. A 289 Mustang that has a stock camshaft should run a 500CFM carburetor.

The idle circuits are clogged & will require a new carburetor

No. Accelerator pump in carb. or late timing caused by leaky vacuum advance on distributor or missing hot air hose from exhaust manifold shroud to air cleaner. Occasionally timing has to be slightly advanced from factory suggested setting. Have worked on cars 44 years. Good luck.

Rebuilt the carb. New manifold and distributor. Everything works fine now thanks anyway.

+GAR A Compared to the expense to convert from carburetor to fuel injection..it not much more.

+Chris “The Doc” Ingrassia ok thank you for the reply :) mmm I never hear bout that

Because the fast idle screw on the Edelbrock carburetor in the video is on the drivers side. Holley carburetors have it on the choke side..

@@MustangRestorationsInc irrespective of the position, do you have any videos explaining the function of the fast idle screw?

@@dreamingcode No I'm sorry I don't.. This video was more to explain the idle mixture process & not an explanation of the entire carburetor.. If you go directly to the Edelbrock website they have a few video's that may help though.

Yes & no...The idle circuit is only used once the engine is started & you have taken you hand off the key. But if its not adjusted correctly, then the engine will stall out once you stop trying to start the engine.

Thank you friend. I'm pretty sure you've enabled me to solve my issue.

Are you using an Edelbrock carburetor?

Yes, It's a 4 BBL Edelbrock. It's damn near identical to the one in the video!

Whats the issue?

It just doesn't kick in. It runs on the primaries only, essentially, it's the same carb as the original 2BBL. at this point. I've checked hoses, they're good. I've checked the throttle cable. It's good. I've checked the carburetor itself. Nothing is visually wrong with it. Say, would the kickdown have anything to do with it not engaging? It doesn't go into passing gear, ever. The fuse for, I'm assuming, anyways, the kickdown switch keeps blowing out, so do you think I just need a new kickdown switch?

Ok... Dis-connect the battery, Then with the engine off disconnect the linkage on the drivers side of the carburetor & manually work the throttle to its furthest extend. Now reattach the linkage & put your foot to the floor to determine if the throttle is still opening fully..The secondary plates are mechanical. Meaning they are linked to the primary's with a rod. This rod is on the passenger side of the carburetor, its disabled when the choke blade is closed & the choke must be completely open to allow the secondary plates to open. With the engine off. Manually work the throttle while looking at the passengers side of the carburetor to determine if this is happening.. If so,, fix the choke to open..Another reason could be the base gasket is somehow blocking the secondary's from opening. That's what I would look at first.

+Brandon Parmelee What year & engine is the truck?

+Chris “The Doc” Ingrassia its a 89 Jeep Wrangler yj with the 4.2 amc engine with a 2 barrel carter carb

+Brandon Parmelee I would look for a vacuum leak or crossed spark plug wire. Unless ypu have a bad new carburetor.... There must be something hooked up incorrectly.

+Chris “The Doc” Ingrassia thanks I was thinking the same thing I have to look at it tomorrow and see what's going on with it I really appreciate your help

Hi Matt. There is a blockage...Without the car running..You can try removing the idle mixture screws & using an air hose. Blow air into the holes the screws came out of while opening and closing the accelerator. This may clear the passage's of what ever is stuck in there. Reinstall the screws & try making an adjustment.

@@MustangRestorationsInc i did what you said to do no change tho what should i do ?

@@mrMATTHEWmay887 Your gonna need a new carb. Give Edelbrock a call...

Thank you

Captions bro....hit them up in the setting tab...cheers!

Thanks Moe your absolutely correct. Great advice.. Thank you..

Hi, The timing may be a somewhat retarded or the metering rod springs may need to be changed. Advance your timing a bit & see if that makes a difference. If not then contact Edelbrock for a spring kit & further specific advice.

@@MustangRestorationsInc ok I'll try that. Never considered the timing that makes since. Ty sir for the advice. And ty for your videos.

I hear the audio just fine. Thank You.

civic 1.4 GL eheh i wanted to know aswell