Hey man thanks a lot for the support! Glad you find the content entertaining, I love these little 16v engines! Much more content to come on the engine and the ae86 😎👍
I would recommend doing a valve clearance inspection, and re-tighten the cylinder head bolts and all other critical fasteners to ensure that everything is all good. And I already done that screwdriver trick all my life! When you do not have proper tools, that's how you do it! Glad you replaced that oil pan, but you don't really need to replace it; just remove the paint if you are sure there is no holes on the pan. But a new one is always better.
Thanks for tuning in and supporting the channel 👍 Yup, sometimes you just have to work with what you got haha. I think checking valave clearances would be a good idea before I reseal the valve covers. I may also retorque the fasteners you mentioned. I just need to make sure I dont snap them lololol.
TheBSRecord Hehehehe! About snapping them, just think about the diameter of the thread before attempting to tighten them. I think there is a chart somewhere that shows you the typical tightening values of different size threads. Will not be a bad time to check the cylinder/valve by pulling the head off because you don't know the *real* condition of the engine, but, hey, it is a Toyota and you really don't have to!
My dad's got a Ford ranger from 2000 and I've been wanting to make an rc replica of his car to give to him on his birthday. Your videos have helped me out alot as I'm not really a "car guy" and I just want to say I love the vids man.
So cool man! Goodluck with your project and I am sure he will love it! Its so awesome to hear from viewers that take away something from the videos. In the end, that's what its all about, inspiring and motivating others to hop on their own projects. Thanks for watching and commenting :D
I think weve all been there, with cocking up torque specs, sometimes you get lucky with the snapped portion like you did. Good job taking us along with the highs and the lows 👍
For sure, I'm just super happy it was so easy to remove lol. Hopefully showing the bad portions too, will help people avoid the problems in the future, that's what it's all about! Thanks for watching and supporting the channel.
Hahaha, glad to see this video brings you some relief on a stressful day. I had to split the footage up into 2 parts ,so I should be posting the next video much quicker this time around :D Thanks for always tuning in Steve!
wassup man! the exhaust manifold i got from u running excelente! i derusted it with my wire brush and sanding roll,it's as good as new. good bye to the old cracked header, hello to the used new header. the rusted bolts from the old headers and mid pipe gave me a tough fight , but with some pb blaster ( 24 hours prior)and my harbor frieght impact gun, it came out. with the new header and new hardware replacing the old one. car runs freaking fine and smooth. been driving with the new use header for couple months now and what a day and night different, the 4age is an incredible engine. thanks again and can't wait to see ur car running. !
Great to hear from you man. Glad to hear the header went to good use and is working perfectly 👌 also it's a little jdm bling since it came off a jdm engine lol
Looking forward to seeing it run. I'm in the process of building a carb'd 4AGE myself. If you have this thing ready by November, you should bring it to TougeFest.
@@TheBSRecord Funny you ask about the carbs. I was watching D4A and was fixing to pull the trigger on Dan's bike carbs, but came across Mikuni 40mm sidedrafts with the manifold for about the same price. I couldn't pass it up. It's at the Tail of the Dragon. Very fun event I can add you to the Facebook page if you want?
Gotcha, I was able to remove the snapped stud with a micro flathead screwdriver and some finesse lol. I'm just happy I got it out 👍 Thanks for tuning in!
I know I it's all together but I really recommend re sealing that windage panel too. Whenever I pull my oil plan on my 4a I reseal that too. You may have leaking issues down the road. Keep doing rad things!
I would redo the pan. watch the footage. you are supposed to go around the inside of the bolts. oil is just going to slosh up and come right out of the bolt holes. Cheers mate. Build is coming along great! Trying to get my buddy to go ITB
Good eye! Thankfully I dud just that before I put the pan on, it was just edited out of the video. At the end of that sped up clip you can briefly see me go around the rear 3 bolt holes after I dropped the continuous bead around the pan. I did the same for the remaining ones before I dropped it on the motor. Thanks for the comment though, I almost didnt go around them. Glad I did! Thanks for tuning in :D
@@TheBSRecord Love the car man. I been all over Driving4Answers videos to. cant wait to hear yours run. BRAP BRAP! Hopefully you'll check out my Rx7. I should be done with it next week!
Pro tip I'd reccomend permatex "the right stuff" for the oil pan. And I think in another comment someone said to pull off the baffle plate and seal that too. I would. That copper sealer might not be suitable for oil. I always use the right stuff. Its similair to the original Toyota FIPG. Glad you got the broken bolt out! Those can be a pain.
I did some looking around before I got the sealant and it is supposed to be completely fine for oil applications, hopefully it will all work out. It is the permatex brand too. As for the windage tray, I am also betting it will need to be resealed. So I plan on getting my hands on a new one and swapping it at some point. Thanks for watching and supporting the channel man!
@@ENGINERESCUE86 The engine will definitley be coming out again whether or not I do the windage tray or not. Right now I just want to mock everything in the bay so I know what holes I am going to need and which ones I can delete. Big engine bay plans are on the way :D
Mistake happen, I'm happy to see that you share with us the good, the bad and the ugly stuff ! 👌 Alway remember that someone Who doesn't do anything, don't make mistake lol 😜
You can run it on the front the way it is right now. It bolts up fine with no issues. I’m running my trigger wheel on the front of my stock 4ac pulley with no issues with the same bracket as yours except I got the longer version
Yup, that is exactly what I ended up doing. I got the front adapter piece from T3 and ended up running the trigger wheel on the front of the pulley. I would have rather ran it on the back but the front works too. Thanks for tuning in!
Oh and do not remove the timing belt guide or its gonna fly off. Maybe you could get some bolts that are smaller profile or maybe grind them down a tiny bit?
Yeah, I for sure want to keep that guide for the timing belt. Seems like removing it would just be a bad thing waiting to happen. I actually ended up mounting the trigger wheel on the front with t3's adapter. That way I could retain the timing belt guide and still use their hardware. Looks really nice!
do the windage tray properly now, it will be a pain getting to the bolts around the engine mount and steering rack. and i always get sealant on the bottom of the tray when putting the pan back on. Better do it now while its still out. Good luck on your build
Thanks man, the plan is to source a new windage tray and redo it before it goes back in the car permanently. But for now, I am going to mock it up as is and figure out where all the wires and lines are going to run in the bay. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@TheBSRecord you could, or since you over torqued like me i just took a 2x4 and a hammer and hammered my pan AND the wind-age tray flat again. Lucky you only broke one i broke two in the rear of the pan and drove it for two weeks with minimal leakage. good luck
I know how tedious and stressful it is to mess up torque specs. I just finished converting my GT-S coupe back to a T50 and I constantly went and double checked everything. I used new bolts, new mounts, loc-tite, and kept my phone with a .PDF copy of the service manual torque specs at my side at all times. I was very concerned about my flywheel torque specs as I didn't want to lose my legs because I messed up the torque spec on a big metal disc. I used a set of brand new OEM flywheel-crank bolts for peace of mind. Just trying to get all the parts together was a pain in the ass. A lot of people flaked on me when buying local, Amazon actually lost my clutch kit and I was forced to order another Exedy kit, and I was sold a clutch pedal for an AE82 FX16 instead of an 86. In the end I kept working at it and the car is now 100% back to stock minus the the T3 short shifter. Good luck with your build as always, it's cool to see someone working on the same stuff I am and not being discouraged by anything that goes wrong no matter how major.
Thanks for the comment man, I feel your pain! Sourcing all these parts has been crazy. I have been using Battlegarage-rs a lot for my oem replacement parts and they have been amazing! I just received my Exedy clutch and are going to try and install it and the flywheel this weekend. Unfortunately, I do not have new OEM flywheel bolts but I do still have the ones that were originally installed. After researching, it looks like the old bolts will be ok to reuse, but I'm still kinda if'ie about, not gonna lie lol.
Hey dude get some arp FW bolts. They are good. Been using them in my 86 for like 8 years no problems. Just torque them down correctly with the arp lube or even some clean oil.
I used the hardware that was supplied by T3. Unfortunately they are not Countersunk, but that probably would work. Unfortunately the holes used to mount the trigger wheel would have to be drilled differently on the crank pulley. Thanks for watching and commenting :D
T3 also supplied the wrong hardware with the brake booster delete for my 79 rx7. i made a video on my channel of the solution and the entire build of my car.
Some other people suggested that as well. Redrilling the mounting holes in the crank pulley to accept a tapered head screws kinda scares me lol. I dont want to mess up the crank pulley or throw off the balance of it if I mess up. Thanks for your suggestion and for tuning in!
@@TheBSRecord You do not need to drill your crank .. just give a few touches to the holes of the trigger wheel so that they lodge well the conical head of the screw. Watch this video at 1:04 is exactly the idea I give you .. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-F-t3yoRPOAk.html
Hey man thanks for watching and your suggestion! It's true the light weight crank pulley doesn't have a harmonic balancer and it may cause issues down the road, but I've decided to chance it for now. I do plan on tearing down the engine and rebuilding the internals at some point in time. When it gets to that point I will re-evaluate the crank pulley situation.
The original pulley isn't even a harmonic balancer, its a harmonic dampener. Just has a thin rubber layer between the center and the outer ring. Toyota balances their engines internally from the factory. The lw pulley should be fine imo.
@@ENGINERESCUE86 good information to know, thanks for posting this. Hopefully the t3 pulley will work out, it look so good!! Way better than the stock one lol.
Yes, I plan on using the sr5 harness for all the perifials, then strip and redo all the unnecessary wires in it. The ignition of the engine will be handled by the nodiz pro ecu and the supplied harness. Thanks for watching!
The 4age is a cool engine, but (IMO) if you are looking for high hp numbers the 4age 16v is probably not the engine for you. You would probably be better off swapping a beams engine and turboing that. Thanks for watching!
