I’ve been having trouble with my crosman venom .22cal nitro piston rifle being inaccurate. It was ok when I first got it but accuracy became erratic . I mounted a new Hawke vantage scope and that seemed to help at first , but it was never grouping well. I removed the gun from the stock to inspect condition and clean it up with a rag. I found that the break barrel pivot screw was slightly loose . I mean when it is cocked the barrel just drops drown when gun is held vertical on your knee. I tightened up the pivot screw so there was enough tension to hold barrel at a 90 degree angle without dropping down . I also cleaned up surface around chamber hole ,as well as lubing with a drop of Pellgun oil. I tightened up the scope mount screws and now it is shooting better than ever .
These videos are enjoyable and helpful. I still visit Kenny’s memory on “MyAirgunReviews” but you are becoming worthy of carrying on in his stead. Keep it up.
Yeah.. Kenny was such a big part of the community, sad.. I also still visit his videos, even after passing he's still helping me rebuild an old Gamo (yes, I know how Kenny felt about Gamo, lol).
My Gamo break barrel started shooing verticle strings on the target that slowly got worse. I tightened every screw I could get to and saw a great improvment. It didn't last long! The gun would shoot at least a 1" group but it soon got 2" long! I found the screws on the barrel near the front of the stock had loosened again! I put red locktite on the threads and left it overnight to set!. So far so good. Be sure the scope is mounted on rings that have a pin that fits in the hole on top of the gun near the back. This pin keeps the scope from sliding back. Locktite the scope screws too!
I am a better shooter from your videos. You have given me lot's of great tips. On of the best was keeping both elbows up. This alllows me to better steady my hold with break barrels.
I’m a noobie to air rifles , and now ammo is expensive, plus the cost of the shooting range , so I bought a Ruger air hawk elite ll .177 cal. I keep seeing all these mixed reviews , and I’m trying to learn how to maintain this gun so it lasts , I’ve never seen a cleaning kit for .177 air gun and a brass brush seems a bit hard for minor lead deposits so I’ll make a swab out of weed wacker string and cloth with a bit of light non acid oil when it gets dirty and try that , I really like informative videos like yours it helps all of us searching for answers and saving money and time , great video thanks for posting 👍🏼
Yes Cleaning is definitely worth doing . Also I run Jb bore paste to take imperfections out also cause they seem to be using the BUTTON method which is a FAST and cheap way rifle a barrel . However when the cutter begins to lose ability to cut clean it will Gaul the barrel leaving terrible finish. That's why sometimes it shoots like crap in the beginning then after the So-called break in period it will finaly shoot a little better . So to speed this up I run the bore paste several times and polish . It really seemed to work very well for my older Maxim
I have 2 break barrels a Shockwave and a vintage Beeman r1. Both are an exercise in frustration for consistent accuracy. A friend of mine just bought his first ever air rifle a stoeger xm1 pcp bullpup mounted with a cheap pinty scope combo. After a rudimentary sight in we could hold half dollar groups at 100 yds with ease and hit peach cans at 200 yds uphill easily. I'm completely sold on the usability without fuss of a pcp. Charging is a non issue for me in the field because I've never been presented with more than a few ethical kill shots in a day.
I must say brother....you're RIGHT...just yesterday I was firing my AirHawk Elite2, using (7.0 gr. lead pellets), I fired 10 rounds, NO RESULTS!!!...then I cleaned my barrel and oiled it afterwards, and decided to used (10.6 gr. copper pellets)..👍👍👍....boy boy boyyyyy, RIGHT ON ACCURATE!!! On target everytime....SO, I'M THINKING with my AirHawk Elite2 with over 1,200fps.......those 7.0 gr were toooooo light ...but using heavier pellets between 8gr on up...makes my rifle very accurate....so, I have learned that my airhawk elite2 likes the heavier pellets....but she loves the 10gr on up COPPER PELLETS...so, now I have found her sweet spot when firing....OFF TO HUNTING IM GOING!!!!!.....and you're tips are awesome bro!!!!!!...
I clean bore every use. An Idea for accuracy on a clean bore, I weigh pellets into lots no mater the pellets I am using. It really makes the difference.
Yup. I do not either stay away from the brush. Not that long ago since I gave my Sig Virtus a one helluva scrubbing - and it surely didm't make the barrel worse. Surely no target rifle - but the softer brush material ain't gonna ruin the harder barrel. I though do mostly keep just to RWS Hobbys - even though I know them more expensive JSBs to outperform the Hobbys in that rifle at a 25m distance. RWS Hypermaxes though are something I stay away from - since 2ft "groupings" ain't my thing...😂 Them stock screws are also good to check to be tight on those springers.. I often check that on my old Crosman Phantom .177 - which I think is a very good springer for the money. I just love the rifle. Shoots good even though the spring creaks and it twangs lile a sob. But even the og cheap scope still works good on it..😊😊
If all of that failed to fix the problem (and you have ruled out a bad scope), it's probably that the lockup wore out and is now inconsistent. If both rear and front sight are mounted on the barrel (like every springer I have ever seen), remove the scope and shoot with open sights, if open sights outperform the scope, you might have an inconsistent lockup. My Hatsan 125's lockup wore out after shooting is many, many times. You cannot tell by feel, it feels like there is no play, but it's the only thing left that it could be. So it's now open sights only with that gun.
Check your action screws too, the two bolts at the front of the stock and usually one in the trigger guard, they don't need to be mega tight just check they are nipped up. gamo recommend 3nm to my knowledge if you have a torque limiter.
Im genuinely done with my air hawk elite 2 have the same issue you do. Tried my ass off to get it in working order to no avail. Had the same issue for about two years. Picking up a non break barrel on Tuesday.
Thanks James for that great info, my crosman Optimus 177 was really accurate and it started to sound really dry so I took it apart and lube it the spring but I'm having a hard time to make it shoot like before really accurate, so I will do your suggestion and clean the barrel with a brush and see what happens, once again thanks for your time and videos of good information, keep it up man!!!!!
I recently found a beat up Gamo Shadow 1250 at a pawn shop. After tear-down I've noticed that the very last inch of the barrel is SMOOTH ?! - is that normal ?? The barrel looks like it needs a crown pretty bad, there are tiny little burrs at what should be the crown. Depending on accuracy I am considering cutting the smooth part. - any experience with cutting a break barrel rifle ?
Gd advice. I have the Gamo Mach 1 22 cal. It destroyed the Gamo scope what inexpensive scope would u recommend? I was also using the crossman hollow point pellets
Yup, those rings will come lose for sure. I use a bore snake for mine, I took the brushes out though. I have one I need to clean the hell out of, it doesn't like anything I put in it yet.
Well I'll be cleaning the barrel but never with a bronze brush, it will damage the rifling just like a wire brush would, yes it'll improve accuracy FOR A WHILE but eventually your barrel will be worn.
I have the 22 gamo 10 shot n i cleaned it after about 20 shots, i used oil n pad n a lot of black stuff came out, i ran a brush through it also, afterwards it shot fine I guess there was a lot of stuff in barrel from the factory
I like the first 2 scenarios,You forgot to mention a bad piston seal can cause erratic POI and also in a pcp it could be breech probe seals or seals leaking in general. Ed The Pro Snippin air Man 💪💪💪😱😱😱💯
Do you know if there is a more powerful spring to use in my Gamo PT-85 down the road ? It's fairly new now, but someday I'd like to hot rod it. I have a Crossman C-11, too, and it's a great first gun, but already getting tired of it. That would be a fun one to mod, too since it was so cheap to begin with.
I like scopes but they can fail,so I prefer good open sights that shoots well up to 30 metres,with practice you can achieve that without any problems,just Get good spotter…
The problem with my Gamo is the scope rings keep sliding down the rail even with the set screw tighten the one on the rear ring going straight down into the rail that screw just keep getting bent and the hole is getting deformed from all the kick.
z always use a 1 piece mount on break barrels in my experience (unless using weaver/Picatinny) even if they have a scope stop. You’ll find you get a more secure base for your scope and it’s only $15 for a UTG one piece dovetail mount. Upgrading the scope helps and usually goes hand in hand. But like he said an unbundled Centerpoint like a 3x9-40 AO would be worth the price. If you can, get a UTG (or Hawke) scope for around $109 and you’ll notice a HUGE difference with glass quality and you get the mil-dot reticle with 1st focal plain. That means when you zoom in your POI should stay the same. Perfect for a break barrel. I have 3 and my UTG 3x9-40 AO is holding up so far after probably 600-700 rds. I’m using a 1 piece weaver mount but given it’s the most powerful break barrel in .22 (28FPE) I’m pretty happy. But again back to what he said, always check the screws periodically and make sure they are tight but don’t over tighten. Once you hear the screw squeak don’t go to far past that. If you’re confident that your scope is level then you can use blue loctite and let it set for 24-48/hrs and you should be good. Good luck
I have a gamo socom tactical that was given to me. I put a couple thousand pellets through it and now the spring has broken. I think. It will shoot but way reduced power. Do you have experience with replacing the springs? Should I replace with another spring (I'm imagining will eventually break too)? Or should I convert to a gas ram? The gun was given to me as I said, but I'm still struggling with putting money into it. I'm afraid the lockup might wear out next, or who knows what. Looking for AAA advice or anyone else to chime in with exp to share.
Thanks for the video, your green screen effect background appears not to be working good for you , you have a streak of A running through your face and tea shirt ,, also suprised you haven’t got a Dianna bullseye on top of your spring gun to take out the vibration , to stop your scope rings coming loose ,,, ( the spring rack system that you fix on your scope rail ,,) cheers shane uk 🇬🇧
Nice informative video thanks, but I have to ask I’ve noticed in your videos since you’ve started using the new background I can see it thru you and whatever your showing us on the video, like this video when ya sprayed the lube people couldn’t actually make out what you were showing them, It looks like your see thru and can read the letters on the wall thru you!! I’m bad at explaining To put in comparison it looks like your a ghost and can see thru,,,, If any of that made any sense.
Nice Information But some of those "spray lubes" contain "other vehicles" that could harm Air Gun seals I recommend the RWS brand that comes in a liquid especially formulated for air toys. It comes with a nice long needle to inject silicon into the chamber .... and especially designed for Air Toys. I have been using Air toys for over 40 yrs. It is really not that expensive and there is not waste... nor no unknown "vehicle chemicals" that might harm seals. Nice videos.... yes good idea to keep bores clean .. VR
