I ENJOY YOUR AVENGER SERIES...JUST BUYING MY FIRST PCP. You keep mentioning "temperature"... I worked in a military calibration laboratory (to work to national calibration standards; our lab had tobe 66 degrees +_ 1; at some(?)specified Relative humidity, and that was just the electronics lab area.I believe the physical dimensional lab was tighter .) : Here's something to think about: A huge factor "Air temperature" affects is the "relative humidity" (RH):Warmer air holds more water vapor(making it denser). So In my thinking; if you fill from a compressor when the outside RH is one value; the refill in mid afternoon when the rh is different. the outside (compressed) "Air" will have different qualities. Eventually the different air "values" in the rifle reservoir will mix and average out. Cheers!
You will see several videos about "zero" or "centering" the scope. But for me, it was difficult to answer "why"? Especially with the cheap scope supplied with the gun, it's imperative to have sufficient spring tension inside of the scope to maintain zero. This is where the reticle tube is close to center! This can usually be accomplished with a business card shim on the back mount so that you angle the scope down by ten thousandth of an inch. This is the best low cost method to account for the common " barrel droop".
Some claim the best setup for a regulator is to keep adjusting the hammer spring until you can't get any more velocity, then back that hammer spring off to lower the velocity by 10%.. so for example if your max velocity is 1000 fps, then you back the hammer spring off until you reach 900 fps.. If you want more then you have to turn the regulator up, check the max velocity and then back it off 10%.. Your regulator and plenum is like a mini storage area vs the larger storage of a non-regulated gun.. With that said you can get the same velocity on the front side of the bell curve (apex) as you do on the back side.. Backing the hammer off 10% simulates the front side of the bell curve where the hammer can't open the output valve all the way, but is more consistent than the back side because it minimizes extra air passing through by having the output valve open for too long.. The pressure still left in the plenum will help close the valve sooner.. In other words you are not dumping all the air out of the plenum no more than you would dump all the air from an unregulated air gun.. Many shooters prefer to have a short burst of high pressure rather than a long burst of low pressure.. Backing off 10% give you the short burst of high pressure effect..
Listen people- you don’t need to lube or wash your pellets. We are shooting groups of 1/2” (5 pellets) at 30 meters. The scope, the type of pellets, the gun, the bench bags and the hold are what is important. Do your thing, but for me- i would never need to go through tthis
Never ever ever shoot your spring powered air gun without a pellet . Its the biggest words on the instructions. Its called dry firing . Its so harmful they even engrave it into the gun . please read the manual . The pellet slows the piston down so it doesn't slam into the end of the chamber . Shooting it without a pellet is the fastest way to destroy the piston . Here are the exact words under the big yellow CAUTION IN THE MANUAL . ( Never dry fire your air rifle. If the air rifle is fired without a pellet it will cause the piston to bottom out in the cylinder which can permanently damage the air rifle . ) You can't get much clearer than that . For Gods sake take this video down or delete the part where you are dry firing the gun . You are going to cause other people to destroy there guns . At least put something in the description that you made a very bad error and to never under any circumstance dry fire your gun .
the slight change is caused by the height of the scope not how much further up the barrel it is. I thought anyone who uses scopes on air rifles would keep that in mind. on most air rifles you want the scope as close to the barrel as possible. from what i saw each of the rifles was shooting about one dot above the crosshairs about where i would expect for a 50 yard zero
So in theory, you degassed it just enough to grt lower than the reg setting to basically eliminate the reg setting. Therefore you can find a better, lower reg setting by just using the cylinders air guage. Am I picking up what you're putting down here?
Hi James ... i have an air venture avenger and the manual says to lubricate the gun every 300 to 500 shots .... problem is it doesnt say exactly how to do it ..... have you made a video explaining this? I dont want to mess it up. thanks
Bull crap,..😂.a Daisy 880 can choot better than that because it has a longer barrel than a brake barrel rifle..A crosman f4 is a good 6 to 8 inches shorter than a Daisy 880 rifle..
your clearly have eaten bad cornbread. u cant just take a pellet tune and then drop in some slugs and then like magic have them shoot well.. Your science is seriously flawed. not even 800 fps for slugs. your a fool.
So what if you used this kit AND a moderator? Is it possible and would it make a perceptible difference? Specifically could you attach this with the DonnyFL adapter? Its the only one I'm presently aware of and I've got a growing curiosity to see how quiet one of these can get.
I'd like to see results at 100yards. Slugs retain their speed at 100yrds while pellets slow down. Watched countless videos of long distance shooting using slugs. Nobody is using pellets in their $3k PCPs for 100+yard hunting. Slugs aren't pricey if you are just hunting. I could understand if you are plinking and wasting $ shooting paper targets. Here's a video; ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1TjwPpLpCgI.html
My Gamo break barrel started shooing verticle strings on the target that slowly got worse. I tightened every screw I could get to and saw a great improvment. It didn't last long! The gun would shoot at least a 1" group but it soon got 2" long! I found the screws on the barrel near the front of the stock had loosened again! I put red locktite on the threads and left it overnight to set!. So far so good. Be sure the scope is mounted on rings that have a pin that fits in the hole on top of the gun near the back. This pin keeps the scope from sliding back. Locktite the scope screws too!
The wood stock also interferes with the barrel / air chamber stack. This can be seen taking the rifle apart and then putting it back together in hot weather. The plenum and trigger area won't fit into the stock! One must sand the stock down to allow the barrel assembly to free-float. This may also fix the PO shifting.
Hey let me say this, I like you & thank you for your videos. I saw another video where you were getting a little ticked off at Some of the comments on the avenger hammer springs ect. Let it go, it is just part of life we all must deal with. You are helping a lot of us. You have a huge amount of us in your corner, I just had to say that to you my friend.😁
Really happy I clicked on this video. I just bought two new airguns after being 18 years away from them. I’ve been doing all my research on them before I start shooting a lot and this helps.
My breakbarrel sometimes shoots in the black arena, but sometimes it foesnt even hit the target. The scope is also cheap and the group is a big one. It could also be the scope , and everytime I zero it it hits the black area, then after 2 shots it doesnt even hit the target
10:15 The ballistic coefficient of a projectile has everything to do with retaining energy, literally everything. You also say that the BC changes as soon as the projectile leaves the barrel. That's utter noncense . . . every slug and pellet has it's own set ballistic coefficient, no matter at what speed you shoot them, the ballistic coefficient of that projectile never changes, it doesn't decrease nor will it increase. It is a SET number, otherwise they couldn't print the BC on the box. The only projectile that I know of that could changed it's BC during flight was the French Concorde when it lifted the cockpit.
James I just got my adapter and the OEM holes are only 5/32”. Do I need to make them bigger like yours or drill the four holes the same size that came with mine? Also I’m new to pcp air guns and learning a lot from you. Keep up the good work.
