You will see several videos about "zero" or "centering" the scope. But for me, it was difficult to answer "why"? Especially with the cheap scope supplied with the gun, it's imperative to have sufficient spring tension inside of the scope to maintain zero. This is where the reticle tube is close to center! This can usually be accomplished with a business card shim on the back mount so that you angle the scope down by ten thousandth of an inch. This is the best low cost method to account for the common " barrel droop".
YOU ARE GIVING THE WORST ADVICE THAT IS POSSIBLE !!! Don't spray flammable lube in your piston, it will detonate ruining the seals. Don't dry fire the gun. That lets the seal slam into the end of the piston without the cushion of compressed air that the pellet would produce.
Where do you get your information man? Nobody who knows anything about break barrels will tell you to do that. Never spray or put any lube into the transfer port. It will detonate or so called "diesel" and eventually blow the cup seal on the piston. Also you should NEVER dry fire a break barrel. The best way to get accuracy from a break barrel is to use the artillery hold and find the ammo your gun likes best. You are the worst source of airgun information on the RU-vid.
It’s not good for any spring gun! Who are all of you kidding? Amazing how one individual says it’s ok in a video, now a group of people decide to ignore manufacturers warnings.
The silicone creates an air pocket when firing that's why there's combustion when dieseling...Also I said you can shoot it with pellets or not, I personally dont but yet I just shot 3 different break barrels with factory scopes mounted years ago using the same pellet as well hitting cards on edge so like I said in the video this just proves that my shooting, techniques and methods work and work very well
Good advice except for firing the gun with no pellet in the barrel. You break pistons that way, I have seen it personally, plus the instruction say not to. I have that same Ruger .22, love that thing.
I hope you don't take offense to this but I found the crickets @3:52 to be comical 😄. I just..Ive had bad luck with the generic scopes that come with the gamos... I guess tho.... apparently some of them are okay. Nice shooting
I'm having the worst time with the crappy scope that came with my Gamo swarm whisper get it sighted in it works for a little bit and then it's bad again. I'm just taking that scope off and putting on a nice one.
Sounds like your scope is moving. Check your screws are tight enough as the recoil from springers will cause screws to loosen. If necessary use loctite. If your scope is moving back you need to buy a backstop device which attaches to the top of the barrel.
Nice! I have a xisico break barrel that wont lock upon cocking.. any idea's or maybe you could do a video on possible repair of such issue as there is none i could find addressing this issue. Thx
could be to much spring if the spring is compressed before locking in . or the trigger is set to sharp . or the trigger is alrady set tru dieseling or something got inside or the cocking lever is bent and you can not go the full lenght or see next comment
the most breakbarrel guns do not have the barrel excact in line with the cilinder , and that gives trouble with scopes and accuracy more barrel flipping/swinging . control is easy with a water level on cilinder and barrel, barreldroop must be corrected with removing metal where it hits from barrel end .just little and checking, barrel up is not as easy corrected without adding metal tru welding .
That is why manufacturers use 'shims' yet time and time again I watch videos of stripdowns where they treat them as 'washers'. You must note which side they come off as they may be different thicknesses, a fact not well known it seems.
@@peteralexben Correct sir, but shims also line up the barrel, looking directly down in line with cylinder how would you otherwise align the barrel in one that's off? What I'm saying is do not think shims are washers, put them back in the same place. If you exaggerate and put in a 1" shim on the left looking down, and an eighth inch on the right the entire alignment of the barrel will be to the right. Not every stock is perfect is it? and the very basis of accuracy is when you pick it up and look down it the barrel points directly ahead.
@@davidoldboy5425 yes .but if a barrel is pointing a degree from the picatinny or dovetail is the problem .if its parrallel with the picatiny or dovetali is not a big problem .that can occure with shims wrong mounted .
@@davidoldboy5425 hello sir .i the crossbolt of pin in a break barrel is the first that must be playfree the shims are to get the right tension on the barrel without bending the fork
Do you like the Gamo Magnum series of guns or are they too powerful to be accurate for a break barrel? Also, how do these perform in winter for rabbit and squirrel season? I am looking at buying one now but I can't make up my mind and I trust your opinion.
I’ve a magnum gammo. 177. On the cylinder housing it says 1650 fps. I checked with some pellets that were 9.2 grain and crono read 990 on average. As for accuracy I’m getting better I’ve a vortex scope and that vastly helped. But I think your right that the faster you get the more the pellets wander. The heavier the pellets the slower it travels and it gets more consistent
I have done complete proper tunes on dozens and dozens of air rifles. Everyone except two that had been tuned correctly had crowns that looked like a blind monkey did the job. Every air rifle no matter the brand needs to be torn down and tuned.
I disagree. Gamos are cheap and simple and work perfectly well out of the box (after break-in). The only "tuning" one needs is a actual quality scope and personal practice. I honestly can't imagine messing with my crown because I can shoot quarters consistently up to 80 yards.
Never ever ever shoot your spring powered air gun without a pellet . Its the biggest words on the instructions. Its called dry firing . Its so harmful they even engrave it into the gun . please read the manual . The pellet slows the piston down so it doesn't slam into the end of the chamber . Shooting it without a pellet is the fastest way to destroy the piston . Here are the exact words under the big yellow CAUTION IN THE MANUAL . ( Never dry fire your air rifle. If the air rifle is fired without a pellet it will cause the piston to bottom out in the cylinder which can permanently damage the air rifle . ) You can't get much clearer than that . For Gods sake take this video down or delete the part where you are dry firing the gun . You are going to cause other people to destroy there guns . At least put something in the description that you made a very bad error and to never under any circumstance dry fire your gun .
Why does the trigger on my Zada 25 caliber snap so violently that my finger stings and feels bruised too much to continue after three discharges? Is the word DISCHARGE allowed on this sick leftist platform?
Airgun Chamber Lubricating Oil is the name on it. It`s silicone and comes in a 0.5 oz tiny bottle with a tip where I can drip a drop or two of lube the port behind the breech. @@michael-hf1ph
