Thanks ever so much for your thorough testing and reviews, and a great education for a novice like me. The usual review sites are very superficial and lazy with no in-house testing and relying often on public review sites.
Excellent video, thanks. Is the Lidl one (C1) OK for charging a start / stop battery? I've been advised that they should not be charged to full capacity (only 80%) to leave some headroom for the start / stop regeneration in the vehicle. Or should I look for a charger with "start / stop" in the spec?
Good question. I have never seen the an explanation of exactly what the battery monitor does or how clever it is. Angry YoutTubers have been told me that you should leave the battery connected when you charge so the monitor knows that it has been charged and I have also been told the converse 'The battery monitor will think that a new battery has been fitted' The only advice is to ask the dealership service people and hope that they actually know what they are talking about!!
Thanks for the videos. Do you have any plans to test the Noco genius line of battery chargers (genius 5) ? Supposedly similar to the ctek but no float charge. They also have a forced mode and a repair mode but don't do any float charge. The other charger that maybe of interest to you is the battery minder brand 1500 or 1510 or 12*** models. You may come across another brand called battery tender but they seem to be a regular charger/float maintainer without any extra features like the genius/ctek brands.
Thanks. I can check them out if I can get hold of samples from somewhere. See the Ctek repair video on this channel. I did the CTEK repair and modification and ever since I have been inundated with offers of faulty CTEKs. So I would say the CTEK is too cheaply designed and built to be reliable - especially for the price. If you have any spares of the models you mention then I am happy to test them and send them back afterwards..
Hi thanks for the informative videos on the batteries! I was gonna pick up one of these in lidl while they are in,may i ask what is best practice when using them if you leave the battery in the car while charging?? its just a traditional car setup which is getting on a bit now,can you just clip directly onto the positive and negative of the battery with the clips of the charger?? or should you remove the negative cable clamp from around the battery post?? I know you can take the battery out if you wish and clip onto both posts of the battery but trying to avoid doing that! thanks a mil
You can leave the battery connected in most cars. Don't leave the charger connected for extended periods. better jut to do an absorption charge once a month during the winter or during periods of infrequent use or short journeys. Must better to keep it healthy than try and treat a malady from which it will never fully recover. Frequent and gentle absorption charges is the answer
Great Video. I got a question. I bought one today and the manuals say that i have to disconnect the minus and plus pole from the car to the battery. Is this is this necessary? Or can I just connect the battery charger directly? A big thanks. And keep up the great work!
Some cars draw current from the battery and if you battery is very low the car electronics can start doing weird stuff. Especially alarms. Most cars these days do draw a small current from the battery when parked and locked. If the battery is low and starts charging when you connect the charger then I wouldn't bother disconnecting the battery terminals. If the battery is very low then you might need to disconnect the terminals to let the battery charger do its recovery thing without losing current to the circuits in the car..
I know this is a bit late but IF you have "stop start" technology in your car you DEFINITELY need to disconnect the car cables before you start charging your battery with this - unless you don't mind destroying the stop-start module.
Hi thanks for your video, I've just brought this charger which also states FLIRT can this be considered a smart or intelligent charger which would allow me to charge leisure battery?
Yes it should do a reasonable job of maintaining a leisure battery, The only issue is that if the power goes off it doesn't resume the maintenance charge when the power comes on again.
I bought the LIDL charger but it has a red backlight not blue like in the video. The voltage indicator seems accurate in mine read 12.3V when my meter said 12.33V. I don't find the charging symbols that easy to understand though. But I prefer a digital LCD display to my CTEK charger which only has LED lights, I like knowing the voltage of the battery which my CTEK doesn't show.
Thanks for the interesting information. RED LEDs are cheaper than Blue... Some units are bound to be more accurate than others due to the spread of component values within the component specification.
Thanks for the video! I like the ALDI better because if the power goes of and come back during the night charge the ALDI model start in SLOW mode but keep charging or recoveting but the LIDL modem stay in stand by waiting for a manualk click . right?
I wouldn't buy either. Spend a bit more ad buy a decent 12V only charger if that is what you need. These are jack of all trades devices whereas most people need a master of the 12V battery for their car. Not something that flashes lights and buggers around whilst you are waiting to start the car because you need to go to work.
Hmm, the termination voltage isn't that accurate. Best to check the datasheets for the batteries that you are charging and then compare the charge currents and termination voltages in the video to the manufacturers datasheet. They don't tolerate damp and are susceptible to any significant mains transients. so, depending on the mains supply you have there it may have blown up the next time you go to check that it is dong its job.
Hi great video very interesting I have one of these great to charge a car battery I had been using for my caravan upgraded to a halfords class A leisure battery can I still use this charger and if so do I use it on car mode thx
You could but I would use something a bit more up market and accurate for support charging. The termination voltages aren't that accurate and to make matters worse there is no temperature compensation on this charger so if you are using for support charging it will etch the battery plates.
Great value these are. Great video 😎 for charger nerds like myself (used to test automotive batteries in R&D applications) OK, they are low 'n slow amp chargers at 5 amps max so no battery bender, but good as battery tenders😎 When I think what car battery chargers were like in the 70s, 80s and even 90s, these are epically better, although that said, old school chargers would charge a completely flat battery such as vehicle left overnight with lights on job.
The other thing about the old chargers is that they don't give up the magic smoke with a poof for no apparent reason. I still have my dads charger that he gave me in 1973 and it still works just as well on a total flattie. Thanks for watching.
Thanks. Yes, probably a copy. The manufacturer's recommended charging current for most car batteries is around 3.8 Amps? So unless you are in a slight hurry a 3.5A charger is better.
Thanks for video , I have a Oxford optimiser charger and bought the ultimate speed last week , is it ok to leave the ultimate speed connected to a motorcycle battery all the time ?. I'm a bit worried it will mess up my battery as it goes up to 14.4 volts and seems to stay there . What I'm really asking is can it be trusted to be a smart / trickle charger to be left on bike all through winter . cheers pal 👍oh and can I add that the battery is a AGM , should this be changed in winter mode ?. Thanks again
Hi Dylan, the best advice is to get the datasheet for your battery and see what it says about maintenance charge. It is temperature dependent and the charger has no compensation for that. To charge a 12-volt lead acid battery (six cells) to a voltage limit of 2.40V, set the voltage to 14.40V (6 x 2.40). I just checked a couple of battery datasheets and it says float charge (Maintenance charge) should be between 2.3 and 2.35v per cell. (13.8V). The chargers I have tested voltage readings are reasonably accurate. I know the current drops when ~14.4V is reached and then switches to a low float current and the higher current doesn't kick in until the battery voltage drops significantly. I would connect the battery and leave on maintenance charge and then check it with a multi-meter daily a for a week. If it is a good float charge you are looking for 13.8 to 14.0 V when you measure it. That wont damage or age the battery. The other down-side the chargers I have tested for float charging is that they switch off after a power outage so you will need to periodically check it is switched on. Hope that helps.
@@razenby thanks very much for your advice , I watched it last night and it kept going from 12.8 up to 14.4 or higher then drop back down again , it keeps doing that all the time , is this normal ?. . I've sub you 👍
I dunno - it is an interesting issue. I suppose it depends how long it spends getting to 14.4 and then how .long it takes to drift down to 12.8. No harm in atop up to 14.4 so long as it doesn't stay there for too long.
@@razenby yes it's only there for like 3/4 seconds then it drops back down ,stays there for a minute or so then back up to 14 + and back down . just keeps doing it .but like you said as long as it doesn't stay there it's ok ,as when connected on the bike and you rev engine it does the same thing . Anyway thanks again pal. Very interesting stuff .
No I don't think it does. The problem I can see if you put it under the hood is the environment. In a high-humidity widely varying temperature environment it would be constantly crossing the dew point (unless you live in Arizona) . If you do that then take it apart and slap some conformal coating (clear polyurethane varnish) on the circuit board and fit a sealed (waterproof) tact switch else it will go poof when you apply the power on.
HMM The units layout are identical BUT one is a copy of the other and has BEEFED up components :) Thank you for you review and video, sir. I will SUBSCRIBE as your channel fascinates the GEEK in me. EXCELLENT WORK MY FRIEND :)
Hi, I have one of these Ultimate Speed chargers, but the IC marked Q6 has exploded (I stupidly connected it reverse polarity to 24v!). Because the top of the chip has been blown off I'm unable to read the ID number. Do you happen to know what this chip is so I can replace it? Really appreciate your help.
They are 680 milliohm. Since they are blown the main drive FET, the management chip and probably the diodes are blown (D0, D6 and D12) AND the PWM management chip. If you just change the resistors they will blow again. My unit has no ident on the chip - it has been scrubbed off at the factory. Put a call out for that.
I bought the LIDL one. Based on your video, it is better than I expected. Have you measured the voltage drop on the cables? Because they look thin for 5A.
The voltage drop isn't important as at termination voltages currents are very low so so R of the cable is insignificant. V =I x R . The thin cables only has an effect of the efficiency of a charger not the quality of charge. The main problem with these chargers is the poor accuracy and repeatability of the accuracy of the measurement circuit inside the charger. But for the money they are a good for most uses. Very slow at recovering a battery that has briefly run below 7.5V. What is better than you expected from teh video - the video just showed measurements...
I bought the LIDL one a few weeks back. With the plan on using it on my campervan which has a durite split charge relay. Would this charger be suitable to leave connected to the starter battery to charge that plus my leisure battery though the split charge relay🤔. Great video btw very informative.
Yes, in principle, if both batteries are effectively connected in a parallel configuration when the engine isn't running then the the charger will give maintenance charge to both. However I would expect that the relay that connects the main vehicle battery is is only closed when the engine is running. Easy enough to check. Fully charge the leisure battery and then connect the charger to the vehicle main battery and when that is fully charged, with the charger connected, check that the voltage on both batteries is the same (around ~14V ). If the leisure battery is around 12 to 12.5 Volts then the split charge relay isn't closed and the maintenance charging scheme wont work and the main battery is not supporting the leisure battery when vehicle engine is turned off. Then best buy 2 chargers - one for each battery.
Hi there, can anyone help me by telling me what are the two 8pin chips on the back of the ULGD 5.0 A1, as I couldn't find the schematics anywhere. I found some mentions from the input side being OB2276CP, but no reference for the other one and since mine is blown it isn't readable anymore.
Can this latest version charge a very flat 12volt battery? My car battery had dropped to 6v, and I needed to use a 12v booster to trick the lidl charger into starting a charge. This was one i bought in 2015, and has the LCD display, not the simple LED unit that you modified in your other video.
No. It will probably assume that it is a 6V battery and then you are stuck in 6V mode as it wont see it as a 12V until the terminal voltage is above 7.5V and the 6V mode wont push it that far.
@@Alexander_l322 I can confirm that this works! However, I wonder if it goes into de-sulphatation mode (or whatever the pulse mode it’s called) as this is what you‘d want to give the battery some capacity back.
Should be. There are schools of thought that the final absorption charge should not be done too often. This is not too bad compared to an excursion below 11V terminal voltage for the battery which will seriously impair it. Better to support it than not. Cold conditions aren't too bad for a charger without temperature compensation as when you have a cold snap it wont give a full charge but it wont lyt the battery fall too low either. So on balance I would say yes. However consider adding a surge protector to the socket if you are going to leave it on 24/7. There will be a nasty mains transient every so often.
Fully Adaptive Recharge Technology causes too much gassing for comfort. After the T.A.R.T you might need more electrolytes - Brawndo is a good futuristic choice. See ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GFD2ggNxR1g.html
@@razenby do you think these charger as good as Noco5? I know it cannot maintain high charging rate after finish charging. I also found 10A charger from Lidl for €30
Hello from Portugal. I have a deep cycle battery for a trolling motor. It’s a 12v 110AH. Should I use the 12v (car symbol program) or ( Winter symbol AGM battery program)? Thanks in advance.
As with all gelled and sealed units, AGM batteries are sensitive to overcharging. A charge to 2.40V/cell (and higher) is fine; however, the float charge should be reduced to between 2.25 and 2.30V/cell (summer temperatures may require lower voltages). Automotive charging systems for flooded lead acid often have a fixed float voltage setting of 14.40V (2.40V/cell). At colder temperatures the charge voltage needs to be higher . What I would say about these charges is the the voltage sensing isn't that accurate or repeatable at the top-end. My advice would to charge on the Auto setting (not cold) and then measure the terminal voltage at sustained full charge.i.e. After the charger has indicated fully charged for at least 12 hours. At 10 to 20 Deg C It should be between 13.5 (6*2.25) and 13.8 (6*2.3). I have no doubt that another charger would give a different voltage due to spreads in tolerances in the charging components and voltage references so test with the charger you plan to use. Of course the other issue that the charger I tested does automatically switch back on after a mains power outage which makes it less useful unattended charging and cell maintenance.
Magic Smoke thank You 🙏 End charge at cold settings stabilize at 13,2v. It was charging over night. Will do next charge in auto settings to see if it gets the 13,5 as you say. Thank You 🙏
hello I have the lidl one but a slightly diferent model with a red light on the screen . I dont use my car often and my battery went flat , I charged it up to 11.5 and it fired up twice but after a few days I tried again and it did not . I wasnt aware then about the correct voltages , I am now . Anyway I left the battery out of the car at 10.5 volts and the next day it was at 8.8. With the regenaration I can get it up to 10.2 but I have to press the button every 130 secconds or it stops the regenaration .... I had an alarm to tell me when to press it.... so I was presing it every 130 seconds for 3-4 hours but then it becomes to slow for me to manually do it . is there a way to make the regeneration funcion work continusly unil it reaches 10.5 volts or any other thrick? I dont think the battery is dead just I used it without it being charged and dicharged it even more...I was in a hurry to use the car.
Probably the battery is bad. Have you tried tried the charger on another good battery? Also make sure that the battery is disconnected from the vehicle.
When you hold down the button (there is only one on the device), it shows the charging current on the 12v battery, and on the 6v battery... I don't know, but it seems to me that some kind of pulse charging starts? Has anyone tried it?
Yes the recovery charge pulsing at about at approx 0.8S on 50% duty is covered in one of the videos. Battery voltage on 12V needs to be higher than 7.5 Volts and less than about 10.4 volts.
Is there a chance you can make the mod on this charger to charge only 12v like on your other video? Because it won’t charge my battery under 6v it gives me an error...thanks.
does it come back to charging it self after power cut? im asking because sometimes my car is in a garage for more then a week so i would like to have a battery on a charger during that time.
I have a brand new Lidl unit and it was stored in the van as a spare. Over the last two nights put it on charge hoping the set charge rate frost would charge the battery overnight. Nothing and the battery showed 12.1V. Tried the Lidl helpline email and told it is out of warranty. But the case shows a 2A fuse. Is there one? Or is there some kind of reset via the setting button. Like hold down for 10 secs? I would love to send it to you and get your idea. I am retired now and been an auto electrician for over 40 years. Seems strange the display shows the settings but no charge. I am placing another charger on the vehicle tomorrow hoping it will charge. Too cold to be messing with meters etc. But I will dig out my clip-on amp meter and voltmeter.
Check inside the crocodile clips to make sure both wires are connected. On some models, you can press the select button to display the charge current. What does it say when connected? I don't remember seeing s a fuse on the secondary low voltage battery side. Check the wiring first.
I cant say which is best as I haven't tested them all. Of the ones that I have tested the NOCO has by far the better design and build quality. For diesels used on short trips preventative maintenance is the key. it is a good idea to give the battery an absorption charge every few months during the winter. On short trips it will never get fully charged and so will never fully convert the lead sulfate on the plates. The Genius 2 is a good charger and is a bit cheaper but also a quite a bit slower so may be a problem if you are in hurry. Long term The Noco 5 might be a better investment. I haven't been asked to repair one yet whereas I inundated with requests to repair CTEKs. Clearly I don't know the relative sizes of the installed base of each brand but I have repaired a bunch of CTEKs and can see that the mains supply side circuitry, susceptibility to moisture and mode switch failure are very weak design points that aren't present on the NOCO.
Been looking at the BuddyGo car battery charger. I'm not overly clear on whether these will charge a car battery if you have broken down on the road or if you need to be close to a power source for it to be of any use?
If you have time then use the motorcycle setting. It will charge more slowly but will get there and manage it correctly. If you are in a hurry then use car mode. Neither mode will damage it. If you start your bike on a low battery the bike will pump in more than 5 Amps to the battery. In most systems the alternator does not know if the voltage is low because of high ancillary load or a discharged battery so it just pumps out a high current to support the system. If left connected then either mode will provide the maintenance charge OK.
Nothing if they are smart chargers. If they are the old transformer and rectifier type then the electrolyte will gas off until there s a low level then there will be a spark and the battery will explode..
Down to 10.0V in a car battery, can not start it, but also it doesn't show lines on battery icon, and it doesn't show car motorcycle icons. What to do? Can I charge it or not, maybe to leave it longer?
If the terminal voltage is above about 7.5 volts then connect the charger and leave it. It should perform pulse recovery and when (if) the terminal voltage recovers to around 10,4V it should kick in with the bulk charge. the problem is that if a modern battery is allowed to linger below 10V for even a short time then it will be damaged and is very unlikely to recover. The manufactures handbook issued to retailers on procedures for maintaining new stock batteries when awaiting purchase, before the regular maintenance charge is administered (approx 6 monthly) they must check the terminal voltage and if it has been allowed to drop below 11.5 volts the manufacturer it instructs the dealer to scrap the unused new battery. What does that tell you?
@@razenby It tells us to buy new battery more often. It's 24 hours on charger and always at 10.0 nothing is happening, how long after its turned on i could expect to kick in and start charging? And what's with blinking number and three lines when clicked on a change mode button(it doesn't change modes because it can't detect mode)?
Hi, if you mean a completely dead lead acid battery then throw it away. If the voltage has been below 11V for even a short time then it will never be any good.
Please for advice. I have this battery charger HECHT 2018. When it starts charging it goes to high 15.3V, for a short time 1-2 one two seconds and then it drops to 14.4V and continues to charge. Is that normal, and is this how your charger works? Can be charged directly in a HONDA ACCORD 2.0 (2005) car without removing the battery. Can damage a car computer. Greetings to you from Macedonia.
The 15.3 rise is probable due to a response from the battery. This is s good charger to get you going but it is a blunt tool so I would not use it for maintenance charging.
Thank you for your answer. I tried this charger on a 45ah battery, it started charging from 12.4V, in half an hour it shows FUL. I left it plugged in for nine hours. When I turned it off I measured a voltage of 13.5V. After a short time the voltage decreases. The next day I measured 12.6V I think the charger is working properly and can charge and maintain the battery for a long time. Charger brand HECHT 2018. Thank you for your help.🇲🇰 🇲🇰
Hi,I left my 5 years old battery charged for more than 48 hours and the icon of battery( with 4 lines) it still blinking after more than 50 hours,and voltage remain to 13.8V.The voltage inrease very slow from 13.4, and the blinking of battery icon don't stop as if the battery were charged. Instruction say that the voltage must reach 14.1-14.4V. Is battery dead?or my charger is defective
Usually not, however on some vehicles the alarm and immobilizer do strange things when the battery very low. For example on my Subaru the alarm sounds off and drains the battery and the cycle repeats so I have to remove the battery terminal.
Some cars you can others you can't - On some cars If it s pretty low when the voltage rises some alarms sound and drags the battery back down. Try and see. It is much more convenient t leave it connected.
I am confused. The Lidl instructions say If a battery is detected in the voltage range of between 3.7-7.3 V, the programmes 2-3-4 can not be selected. The charging process takes place automatically. Depending on the selected program, the characteristic charge curve is monitored for voltage, time and temperature. Included are the diagnostics program, revitalising mode and retention charge. (See principle representation program 3 Fig. C) Does this mean that it will try to recondition/charge if the voltage is between 3.7 - 7.3 ?
@ferkemall oh dear, I bought this thinking it would trickle charge my flat car battery regardless of battery status. So, I need another charger without a minimum setting? Is that right? I've left the car for too long and the voltage has dropped right down. Can you recommend one, something cheap.
If the battery terminal voltage is below 7.5 volts then the charger guesses that it is a 6 volt battery. If you voltage has been down at 6 volts for any time then the battery is likely to be ruined and needs replacing.
I've got the same charger as the aldi one and when I press the button it flashes a few times and only shows the motorcycle battery. It won't go to the car icon or flash the battery the voltage doesn't go above 8v. Any ideas how to solve this?
It is an issue with the universal chargers out of China. It isn't possible to recover a 12V battery if the terminal voltage has dropped below 7.5V. Buy a charger inteded for use on 12V only.
You have to trick the charger. It will not charge anything under 8 V. Although it does trickle charge it . In uncharged mode. It would take a long time for it to build a charge so it would work properly. So you need to find any 12 V source. Bridge it too the. Battery you want to charge. Then It will charge at 12 V. Even a dead battery. I hope that helps. . Basically a trick on the charger to get the 12 V so the unit will work. And transfer it over
How do you think it knows the batteries capacity (CC, CV limits).. Is it just based of Car and Motorcycle symbol or is there any other logic behind it..
It cannot not know anything except the charge current and terminal voltage, It simply works on the battery terminal voltage at a given charge current. In general, if the battery is discharged below 10.4V it pulses. When ~10.4V is reached it pumps in full charge current until ~14.4V is reached at then the current is reduced until the battery terminal reaches ~14.4V and then the current is reduced to between ~70 and ~150mA . then when the voltage again reaches the programmed cut-off voltage, the charge current is switched off. Various designs use slightly different trigger voltages depending upon design and the accuracy (repeatability of the measurement circuit) and some have temperature compensation. This is either proportional or just an on off (2 settings for termination voltages).
@@razenby Really appreciate fast and long answer.. So basically it has only 2 Constant current modes (for car and motorcycle).. and I guess it only uses CC method without CV?
Yes, but t wont last very long. The power supply design is minimal and is not resilient design. There no temperature compensation of charge termination voltage. It can probably handle parasitic battery drain in most parked vehicles. Better to give a top up charge every months.
@@razenby I have tested this two times now and it always continued charge with normal (car) setting which is okay no need to push any buttons. (When it is connected to battery permanently.)
Buongiorno a tutti. Aggiungerei alla lista anche il piccolo (2 Amp) caricabatteria Ferm BCM 1023, acquistato presso Action nel Novembre 2022 (18 Euro). Ha salvato la piccola batteria della mia auto, quasi morta di freddo. Spero possa acquisirlo e recensirlo in futuro. Cordiali saluti e complimenti dall'Italia.
Yes, it works well for a maintenance charge. The only issue is that if the power goes off you have to turn it back on manually. It would be better if it resumed charging after switch on. After all it could power itself from the connected battery that it is monitoring. Bad design.
Yes they are very good for most AGM. If it is a small capacity battery then Just check the battery datasheet the maximum maintenance charge current and voltage.
If the battery is flat ie below 3.6v, it won't charge the battery. Wow how clever. A charger that won't charge a flat battery 🤔 Chocolate teapot springs to mind. I'm now trying to charge a car battery that's down to 9v. The charger's flashing the motorbike symbol. So i press the button repeatedly before I get the car symbol flashing, but various permutations of car or bike symbol flashing & not flashing. How is one meant to know what the thing is doing? These things are overcomplicated ! Give me a simple basic charger comprising transformer & diodes any day. You plug it in & it immediately starts charging the battery no matter what voltage it's dropped to.
Yes, as I say: A jack of all trades and not a master of the one function that 98% people need - To charge a flat 12V lead acid Battery without assuming it is a 6V!!
Just dont buy the jump start packs they dont last long i made the mistake in buying one there crap all I what to know is what dose the star setting mean on the black one bike car the the star? On the black one
@@razenby we all want to charge batteries..we all forget to press buttons, we all might have a power cut in middle ofthe night. hence its junk design, no reason it could not resume and auto start in low mode, others do, in fact the older lidl model did, its listed as mainatence mode, not very maintainig to find it didnt resume
@@razenby I bought one few days ago afther that I saw your review anyway, the first step from that charger is desulfation? Ore ame I wrong.... Do you have experience with desulfation devices(also sold on e bay and aliexpress?) richard......
hello, yes, if the battery voltage is between 7.5 and 10.5V the charger enters a pulse charge mode that is claimed to recover the battery. Most would say that a much higher pulse current than 0.8A is required to reverse sulfation I have tried to regenerate on a few batteries before (not with this charger) but didn't have any success. A good research paper and explanation is here: www.batteryvitamin.net/sulfation_remedies_demystified
@@razenby CTEK had a good article on their site on desulphination. They claim that they were the first to be able to do it. I've had two of the Lidl vehicle chargers though not the latest and both have been good but get better with each later model. I've also got an Oxford units that gives far more information and would also recover batteries where the earlier Lidls wouldn't. (I own a motorbike as well.) There is a way around that in some circumstances. However the construction and cables of the Lidl are far better, though the croc clips are a bit big for bike batteries. Incidentally it was claimed years ago by some that these Lidl ones were slightly less expensive CTEK copies. In other words very good but without some of the capability of the CTEK. If you look at the early Lidls and CTEK units they are very similar in looks.
These charges are nothing but rubbish they do not give the right readings the old sayin you pay for what you pay for cheap and nasty the spring clip brake off to easily
i just bought the red one... it seems quite nice given the price (~14€) much smaller than previous one and with many functions and exact charge indicator
Yes, and it is a Chinese specification. Performance is another. As you know, during the final stages of the charge the accuracy of the voltage sensing is critical. This is where it all falls apart,
@@razenby sure, but if the display shows programmed values it is the same thing... i am not sure how precise all that measuring can be in such a small/cheap device... that second charger displays those values for sure, but are they measured or just displayed?
