Alpha N tuning VE table from scratch [Datsun 240Z L28 stroker ITB EFI] 

Instablaster...

Cheers! Sounds like an awesome senior project! 5M seemed to attract a negative connotation for head gasket issues but I think they are a stout little motor! Good luck with your project and let us know how you go 👍

@@kyushaspeed Yeah my Supra started knocking so i'm going to rebuild with higher compression, HKS head gasket and ARP head studs in preparation

@@CoffeeEnjoyer69 any progress?

@@CatDaddyTuning unfortunately had to sell the Supra 🤒 Could no longer afford it

@@CoffeeEnjoyer69 sad news but I was gonna say it would be easier if you did a carb conversion. Run a manifold to the head and run triple Webers. Could've run on stock ECU and carbs are more dynamic in terms of tuning rather than throttles which are usually a fixed bore/runner length.

Thanks Alex 👍

Nice! Did you have much MAP resolution to work with? The MAP range for my ITBs was pretty narrow during operation, 75kPa to 100kPa.

@@kyushaspeed Oh yeah I have plenty of usable range. Before messing with anything my setup was idling at 58kpa but would essentially jump to 100 as soon as you touched throttle. After adding the vacuum check valves in the ideal configuration my Idle sits around 40-45 kpa (stock was like 32ish I believe) and throttle blips rise to around 70 kpa. Stock data log throttle blip was closer to 60. Also while cruising I am seeing kpa in the 50's so I can access my dedicated cruise AFRs. So overall my kpa reading essentially just shifted up about 10 units which I was able to account for in the tune. Toughest part to figure out for me was how to slow down the loss of vacuum so it wouldn't shoot up as quickly and feel too snappy. Eventually discovered I got the best results when leaving the farthest throttle from my vacuum block's vacuum hose unrestricted which I assume the length of the vacuum hose effects how quickly vacuum could escape. The other 3 hoses have check valves. Still not as smooth as stock but it's close. I mean throttle blips are still sharper than stock but that was to be expected going ITBs. But besides some low parking lot speed 1st / 2nd gear bucking on throttle tip in it honestly drives pretty stock like. Even got that as a compliment twice now that it felt stock. Sorry for the long post, more so wanting to have the info out there for any random scroller who could benefit or was interested in the info.😁

Glad it helped! 👍

Is it critical to dampen if I’m using MAP for data logging only not an tuning input?

@@kyushaspeed Nope. But it may be useful to see what the vac actually is, not such a fluctuating input. Eventually you may want to do something with it. I’m considering a similar solution for my 3-webbers is why I mentioned a way to see if you can get a more ‘averaged’ reading. At the moment, I just go all-in on timing fairly early without considering engine load. Having a vacuum input would add to my street drivability. At the moment, the wife refuses to drive the car. Oh the joys of open-loop tuning an L6 with 300hp.

I suspect it is possible to tune with approximate dead times. The advertised offset for the injectors I'm using is 0.65ms but I am using 0.2ms to help get my total minimum pulse width down at idle to help with idle AFR.

Haha yes!

I do have a vacuum balance bar hidden under the manifold primarily for the brake booster. I have a MAP sensor connected to log data only.

@@kyushaspeed Thanks for getting back to me. Oh and even with that the reading were barely useable down below?

It’s helpful to determine VE for idle to generate the most vacuum but it is handy to determine what throttle is required for WOT conditions to be met. Between 2-4% TPS around idle gives atmosphere 😮