Animated indicators (turn signals) with Arduino, FastLED and a WS2812B LED strip. 

If you want 'smooth random' you want the noise functions! They're not intuitive, but I do have a video about them.

@@ScottMarley is it in the FASTLed tutorials?. I have watched all 6 and re-watching them again

@@schlotdoglaser yes, episode 6. There I mostly use noise for color changes, but you can apply it to whatever variable you like.

Thank you! Sorry I speak so quickly, it must be difficult for non-native speakers.

Thank you!

Haha, a potential divider would have been a terrible idea ;)

Thanks for the advice! I was reluctant to put too much capacitance on the power input, as I presumed that would delay the boot of the Arduino (I might be wrong here, I'm no expert!). Or are you saying to make sure that any components on the power input should be rated much higher than might otherwise be the case? Or some kind of choke perhaps on the power in? It was an interesting thing to look into and is just an experiment really, always happy to learn though!

@@ScottMarley I was basically trying to say that you need to ensure that the parts on the input have an adequate voltage rating. Specifically rated regulators are often rated with maximum input voltages up to 60V or so. They should not run like that normally (too much power loss) but they will not get destroyed by the spikes. Due to battery the voltage drop on cold starts, regulators with minimum voltage low drop may also be specified. I am not suggesting you should follow this guide, but it gives some good pointers regarding the problems to avoid... www.ti.com/lit/an/snva681a/snva681a.pdf?ts=1618885870959

@@GodmanchesterGoblin really useful, thank you very much.

You'd have to be careful regarding the voltage you are supplying to the strips remember when a car is running, the battery voltage is more like 14.5V with spikes well above this. 12V LED strips might be ok with this, or they might not, I haven't tried. You might have to put a buck / boost converter in front of the strips to give them a constant 12V. You could absolutely use relays for this, I just decided to go for all solid-state.

Thank you! The buttons would be replaced with the wires that normally go to the car light bulbs.

@@ScottMarley thanks for your speedy reply. Again I am super impressed with how the video is done really well explained, just as I said got lost from where you built it on hardware and to putting in the car and doing the testing. Awesome to see it in action. I have a screenshot of your hardware setup. It's a little difficult to see where the vehicle wires are inserted but I bought all my components and have a buck converter so going to try replicate on my bread board and then follow schematic to see how it all runs and flows from input to arduino and then arduino to the led strip. Reading through some of these comments getting a little bit of extra insight like the one comment of on cold starts with voltage drop would that put any stress on the system. And Is there a way to overcome the voltage drop or at least not have it affect these components? Or do I need to relook at what components to use especially if longevity is in mind. Then on a slightly different note, how do you get an rgb strip to show the amber like in newer cars example like with Audi sequential indicators or do they use a strip with a dedicated amber. Ive Watched episode 2 of your fast led and again very informative but then makes me wonder If possible to get that color. I've been messing around on the CHSV and with CRGB to get there but it either goes more red or more yellow not getting that proper amber color with brightness

I thought I might have to do that, but in the end the delay on the car brake light compared to the LEDs is only perhaps 100-200ms which I thought was acceptable. So in the end I left the stock bootloader in place.

@@ScottMarley I wondered about this too. Seems like it works just fine. Keep it simple. :)

Thank you www.falstad.com/circuit/circuitjs.html

Anything is possible of course :) check out my FastLED basics videos if you want to learn how to code your own patterns. Good luck with the project!

As everything is programmable you can make it do whatever you like! Look at the code I've used for the indicators and it should be simple enough to apply it to the hazards.

I'm using www.falstad.com/circuit/circuitjs.html. It's great, I use it a bunch!

Not in the way I've done it where it gets the power from the lights themselves. You could do it of you wired it into the permeant 12V supply from the car, but that would involve running a power cable to the battery or some other circuit that was always powered

@@ScottMarley in my current setup I do run a permenant power already so this is no problem, a couple transistors and some code to hold them on would work well I think!

These are multicoloured strips, so you can make them any colour or pattern you like! I just stuck with the traditional colours in this example.

I didn't have to, but I know others have needed to do so. It must depend on what bootloader comes preinstalled.

@@ScottMarley are there different bootloaders you can run while still using the arduino ide ? I don't understand if you don't mind explaining on the bootloader

@@grantayson7938 I'm sorry I don't have any experience in using different bootloader as it's always worked fine for me without messing with it. You might have to search online, or perhaps ask on the Arduino subreddit.

@@ScottMarley Thank you

I just did some research on uploading via a programmer(arduino uno or other) in my case using a uno to program a nano. I turned the uno into a programmer and the nano as the target quite a simple process and pin connection then hit upload via programmer and it loads sketch without a bootloader. This was my fix and now the nano starts immediately with power on

Absolutely. I'd recommend an i2c accelerometer. There's plenty of tutorials if you search for Arduino i2c accelerometer.

I don't want to do that as I have no need for it, but if you wanted to then this is a good starting point!

I'm sorry, I dont have time to help people out personally I'm afraid.

Awesome, glad to hear!

Hi I hope you can assist me here… I need to program an arduino nano with the animation as in the link. The word Nissan to be a different colour & the circle - white. Thanx ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Xwo-F7Z49xQ.html

@Rolan May I please have your code? I've been trying to figure out how to do all three functions on a single strip, but I am stumped! How do you create "zones" for the indicators and brake lamps? Also, I would like to have receding indicators like on the new Mustang Mach-E > ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-I50uEt_F3Mw.html but I can't figure that out either!

The one you use depends on the amount of lights you have and therefore the amount of current you need. If it's a small installation, look for something around 2A or above. Something like this www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0823P6PW6/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_PYWMY9E6BN4ACYH4EA9F but you can get them much cheaper from eBay. Make sure you adjust it to 5V before using it though!

@@ScottMarley Thank you

Sorry, I can't offer individual help. Good luck with your project.

Link in the description

I'm about to out something up involving an OLED, but it's not focussed on the OLED as such. Is there something specific you were interested in?

@@ScottMarley i found your neo pixel videos very useful and just thought a video on how to create basic displays on oled screens would be a nice addition to them.

@@stephengrattage5219 ok, well you might find my next video and example code at least a little bit useful, it depends on how far you've got yourself! Glad you enjoyed the FastLED stuff.

GitHub page is in the description

Have you looked in the description?

Also I believe u can reduce the delay for brake, as even a couple hundred milliseconds can be the difference from having your rear end smashed. Lol believe theres a pre determined delay that can be reduced. To 50ms

@@jeremyboven go for it. This is just a proof of concept, I'd never use this on a real vehicle.

You would need a buck convertor for each input (so three here) which seems massively overkill for something you can do with three diodes. Also, some buck converters need a minimum load on them to work stably. Here, there would be basically no load.

You could do that, as I mentioned in the video, there are loads of ways you could make this work :)

Not that I've noticed? Is there a reason why it should?

@@ScottMarley interferes with the radio .. buck regulator

Hence the disclaimer