Another IMRC module repair - tricky this time 

This is what you do when there are no electrolytic capacitors in the circuit.

@@LeonidAndronov 🤣

I also can't stand people who just replace all caps and give up if that does not instantly solve the problem. However, I see electrolytic caps as wear parts, limited by hours and with an expiration date, similar to a timing belt. So I first properly find the issue and do the repair, and if the device is valuable and older than 5-8 years, I then blindly replace EVERY electrolytic with high quality ones before reassembling to prevent future issues. It might be a waste of capacitors, as 95% of them are maybe still ok, but I don't want the other 5% failing shortly after and causing trouble. In my oppinion, replacing old caps is part of maintenance. I also do the same with timing belts on cars: If I buy a car and can't 100% confirm the belt has been changed recently, I just replace it, even if it means lowering the entire engine to change it. I would rather lower an engine to replace a 2 week old belt that just has no documentation to prove it is new than remove and rebuild/replace the engine because I was lied to, and the belt was actually 10 years old and snapped on the highway.

how come LM1949 is a fuel injector controller? and used here to drive a motor?

@@glmnet they said in the datashet it can control Air and Fluid Valves. It can control solonoid or motor.

I don't own one but I think there are advantages to a soldering gun. Faster to heat. Always ready. If you need more heater just hold the trigger.

I'm pretty sure he have a decent soldering iron lying around! But for this purpose, resoldering, its more than good enough👍

Certainly from the 18th century but he loves it 😮‍💨😃

Once, I found a bridge rectifier made of discrete diodes, and when I tested the diodes, 3 of them were reading as diodes in both ways. I do not know how the IC was still alive.

Just thought id add that this diode was reading both ways out of circuit, and was the cause of the tv not turning on

A myth, perfect lubricant for this scenario. See the web side of WD for details of the light lubrication properties..and the myth about non lube!

I used a PTFE lubricant, not WD40.

It's a runner

He learned that in Sydney Australia.

He did a shit load of Tesla coil stuff years ago on his channel

Řekl bych, že spíš "Everything's moving freely" ;-)

small voltage variation in the emitter circuit provokes higher voltage variation in the collector circuit- hence you get voltage gain despite no current gain

It's quite glued in.

Ah OK 😎

True but he knows, you have to constantly be thinking how can this test be wrong, he covers this by explaining the diode and resistor in the Darlington that kills the hfe and the cap across the motor that'll look short, with this method it's all about getting lucky, when you don't have schematics to test properly meaning powered up, it's a very common youtube method and only works for absolute dead parts not partially failing or intermittent or incorrect dc bias ect

@@darrenmurphy6251*very common method full stop.

Your right but if anyone on RU-vid knows which components should/shouldn't be tested in circuit.....it's this dude.

I had to do this in a hurry, it had to be returned. If it still doesn't work in the car, I will concentrate more on the chip.

@@DiodeGoneWild where is your finrisi handheld oscilloscope to view the pwm signal on the car? :)

@@brainimplantsI've never personally seen the car, another guy took the module from it and brought it to me.

Just download the braille extension. My subtitles sort of work, while eevblog talks about bird watching

Lololol 😂 nice. Like yr stuff btw 😊​@@LawpickingLocksmith