Is Aeroshell 33 really the best for this job? Wish I'd known that, I would've saved a tube back when I was lubing landing gear. Used to come home completely caked in that crap every night. There's gotta be an alternate high temp grease.
WARNING: anyone doing this, you MUST lock your barrel from turning while doing this. otherwise you can end up turning your barrel, breaking the pin holding it place and knocking your barrel out of alignment which will almost certainly end in a catastrophic failure. Not fun when your bcg releases at 60,000 PSI. You won't have a good time.
There are several and some will lock like the one from RealAvid.com called LUGLOK for $79 which will probably be the one I will get since you can lock your barrel in multiple angles. Just saw a video about about several tools from them to work on AR’s and was impressed. Just getting into building my first AR and I know some people will probably just laugh and say you don’t need all that stuff but I like to work in a real clean environment and I’m pretty sure this won’t be the only AR I will ever build. I hear it’s contagious and you can’t stop. I hope so....
This is so important, easy to knock your barrel out of alignment and get a catastrophic failure if you install a muzzle device without stopping the barrel from turning. Not fun when your bcg releases at 60,000 PSI. You won't have a good time. This video is dangerous not mentioning to lock down the barrel at all.
Shame on AIM sports they refused to pay for shipment regarding their defective wrench. I even spoke to the general manager he mentioned how their policy is no different than any other company. On the other hand Wheeler called me and said, you have our old style wrench, we are going to ship you free of charge our new wrench that has the comp tool. Wheeler has a customer for life. AIM sports needs to learn one principle do to others as you would have them do to you.
It makes me laugh seeing people baby it by putting grease on the threads. Lets be honest, most people probably put nothing or Loctite on that thing without a second thought.
I have always tightened it so that the centerline of the barrel is between two slots with the extra slot on the right. I'm right-handed and this pushes the barrel slightly to the left, compensating for the tendency of the rifle to pull to the right. It also ensures that the flash from the two slots straddles the sight line so you don't look directly at the flash.
Thanks for the video. I just did this for the first time tonight. When I initially hand tightened it, I needed about 270 deg of rotation to get it lined up correctly. I was skeptical as to whether I'd be able to get that much rotation out of the crush washer, but I did like you said, tighten, loosen, repeat, until it went around enough to line up properly. Some of the folks have asked how to secure the barrel in the vise. I used the Magpul BEV block and it worked quite well.
hey bro i dont mean to be a ball busterbut i was watching the brownell's video on this and their gun guy said the beveled edge of the crush washer should face the muzzle device?I watched that part several times to make sure i was right about his video before coming here?I am about to change out a few of my own from flash hiders to comps because my state laws require it :>/ so i need to know which of your guys are right?lol im a greeny so idk?
Great advice and video. A tip that would help make it as exact as possible is something I learned when putting barrels on Garand actions. Ensure the upper is perfectly level in the vice. Take a long and straight rod or dowel (a thin, squared-off piece of wood works best) and lay it on the upper receiver T-rail so that the ends of the stick extend out perpendicular to the barrel. Then take a slender rod or stick (a Popsicle stick works, but the longer the better) and slide the stick through the lateral flash hider ports in the A2 birdcage. Stare at the rifle from the muzzle end and look to ensure the two sticks are parallel and tighten as needed to make them exactly parallel. You should approach the final tightness before using this technique, leaving a slight amount of tightening left to achieve a perfect parallel result with the guiding sticks. As you said in the video, you don't want to loosen anything to get the right alignment, you should tighten to get there and then stop when it's good. That technique works when you really have to make sure it's exact, as with the M1 Garand where the front sight attaches to the barrel on the gas cylinder, so the threaded barrel going into the receiver needs to be as exact as possible. For the A2 birdcage, this kind of precision is not a necessity like it is on a Garand, but it's a technique to use if you really want to make sure it's the best you can make it. Great video, thanks!
Aeroshell 33 is made for aircraft. Primarily the landing gear. Its high temp grease but I'm not sure its rated for the heat levels generated when shooting. I would think theres better compounds you cound use like some kind if antilock that would work with fine threads and prevent corrosion.
I thought the reason the bottom of muzzle devices were solid or without ports/slots was so the gas being forced up and out keeps the barrel from rising? Gas being forced down besides kicking up sand/dirt/debris while in a prone position would push the up, correct?
It would be counter balanced with the top port if there was a port facing the ground. So, the net effect is equal and opposite forces. Having no port on the downward face really helps with debris and a little with rise.
Is that an actual gunsmith recommendation? Also does it matter if its copper and not nickel? Those were interchangeable in a lot of applications. I always wondered about dissimilar metal corrosion with both though.
For flash hiders, compensators, muzzle brakes (not "break"), you must secure the barrel. DO NOT USE an action block for this. If you do, the barrel will twist in the receiver, and the index pin on top of the barrel will dig into the index slot in the receiver and the front sight base will be canted to the shooter's left. By the same token, when mounting a barrel to the receiver, DO NOT USE barrel vise jaws. When the barrel nut is tightened the receiver will be twisted against the barrel's index pin and the front sight base will be canted to to the shooter's right. Always use vise jaws for muzzle devices, and always use an action block for mounting barrels.
an action block (midwest) acts as an extension of the barrel, does it not? As it fits into the barrel extension itself, so be being held in the vise it really acts like a barrel vise (with torque stress on the barrel extension teeth)? This is how it was explained to me by the people at brownells. Im still trying understanding it all. so you're saying to buy a vise that clamps over the outside of the barrel instead? (whereas the midwest action block locks into the inside). So really its inside vs outside clamping?
@@colterdoerr6227 A "reaction rod" fits into the barrel extension. Most action blocks I have seen (and I own two different ones) do not. The device I was talking about is barrel vise jaws. They come as two L cross section vise jaws that have cutouts to fit small dia. and large dia. barrels. These are used to clamp on to the barrel itself. This way any torque applied to the muzzle device is isolated only to itself and the barrel. It can't twist the barrel in the receiver or unscrew the extension. I've done this for more than 30 years. One last tip... when using an action block, remember to use the receiver insert or a bolt carrier inside the receiver so that you do not bend the sides of the receiver.
I am about to install a VG6 GAMMA 762 on my Aero M5E1. I bought a VISM AR-10/LR-308 Upper Receiver Block for the install of this brake.... do you think this is safe for my install?
I use nickel antiseize compound because AerosSell SUCKS! Valvoline's top tier Palladium car grease is better than AeroShell 33. AerosHell would melt in an E-Z Bake Oven, but nickel antiseize will not melt until your barrel has warped. It's fail temp is north o f2100 degrees F.
Aeroshell never really 'dries' so it never really 'melts' either. Pulled off many barrels and it has always been as "liquidy" as the day it was applied except around the crusty carbonized edges.
i love your vids!!! I thought that the unported side of the flash suppressor faced down to prevent "down gassing" to decrease muzzle climb? ("up gassing" forces the muzzle of the weapon downward as the bullet passes the end of the flash suppressor). keep up the good work!!
robert denson The A1 flash hider was slotted in all directions and blew too much dust in the air while prone. The A2 flash hider had only 5 ports facing up and to the side to fix that problem. Flash hiders have little compensating effect.
excellent informative video sir, i myself was a bit scared to attempt to remove and install a muzzle device on my new ar-15 upper, after watching your video this job appears to be ok for the noob such as my self.
Be aware the Hammerhead wrench will not fit over a KAK Shockwave tube. I found out the hard way. Many people use the KAK tube along with the Blade on their AR pistol. I emailed the wrench company letting them know they should have this limitation on their website but they have not responded.
I don't understand why these stupid crush washers are still used. Shims work much better. It's nearly impossible to line up a compensator without over or under torquing it using these big crush washers. They serve no purpose.
Does the crush washer become swagged to the barrel or can it be removed and replaced for another muzzle device. I have a muzzle brake that appears to need to rotate almost a full turn. Will a crush washer crush that much?
I had to go almost a full rotation, so instead of reefing on my barrel, I very carefully ground the washer down on the side of my bench grinder. I removed enough material so I only had to tighten about 30° Works great
Thanks for sharing. Very informative. I have a question. Do they make a AR15 A2 birdcage flash hider specifically for a .22LR. Can I use a 223/556 caliber flash hider?
Tighten Loosen, Tighten Loosen, shit that's not gonna work, be back in a bit, now that it's almost perfect I will show you how to finish, never mind the gaps in the video when I obviously had to do something else.
no matter how hard i try to get with in at least half a turn before i have to start using a wrench i can't get there. i get stuck at 3/4 of a turn before i need a wrench is that much ok? i see here you were just under half a turn until it was set.
I am in the process of removing a stock birdcage-style flash hider to replace it with a muzzle compensator. This video really has helped me to understand the basics of getting the new one lined up correctly. The forwards, backwards, forwards process is going to be a great help. Thank you!
I don't understand why tightening and then loosening it helps it align? I bought a 1/2 x 28 muzzle device recently and it will not align.. My muzzle is 1/2 x 28 thread so not sure why it won't work?
Tightening and loosening the muzzle device stretches the threads and allows you to tighten it further getting your proper alignment. If you crank down on it to get your alignment you will damage the threads and possibly the barrel.
nsz85 I guess the same method for a KX3 knock-off? I've got the thing put on using using the long bar part of a Allen wrench through the slot in the muzzle device. The slot is straight up and down (right where I want it) with quite a bit of torque, but the crush washer isn't "crushed." Does it have to collapse to have a successful install?
I had to go almost a full rotation, so instead of reefing on my barrel, I very carefully ground the washer down on the side of my bench grinder. I removed enough material so I only had to tighten about 30° Works great
The tightening and loosening was a good point. Something I would do naturally but I've been a mechanic for over 20 years. Not so sure about Aeroshell 33 though. It wasn't made for guns it's used on aircraft landing gear. It is high heat grease but not something we would use in extreme high heat applications like ignitor threads. That would call for high temp antiseize compound.
Anyone out there have a combination ar 15 wrench that actually has a 3/4 inch opening for the comp. I purchased a AIM sports ar 15 wrench that spec'd to .652 and a Wheeler delta series wrench that spec'd to .631. My mil spec a2 flashhider spec'd to .736. Hoping I will get good customer service from them.
kdpsengine5 I used the Tapco Intrafuse Ar Armorer's tool for my installation and it worked just fine. I measured the opening with a caliper and it read 0.769 inches. Honestly, if you are just trying to work on the FH, I'd recommend just getting a craftsmen 3/4-inch wrench with a rounded-bottom since it's cheaper. Can't speak for Tapco's customer service.
In this case its necessary. Your stretcthreads. If u wanted u could u threat right before its almost aligned and wipe most off but thers no reason too. Also I would have used anti seize with is not grease. Idk what aerosol is.
@Patrick Faricy I don't have much experience with ARs so I don't like doing work without making sure I'm not going to screw something up. I've had the vice block for awhile now. Still concerns me that some part of the barrel is going to get damaged so I used a strap wrench bracing in the opposite direction of torque. I didn't have any anti seize. Do you think that's necessary? I really don't understand why someone would use Aeroshell 33. I would think that a rifle barrel gets much hotter than what that is rated for. That grease is for aircraft landing gear which gets hot but not rifle barrel hot.
Hey NSZ, I received an Ares Armor , 18" barrel for my new build. The gas port is not centered with the nib of the barrel extention. I put on the free float handguard already and also the adjustable gas block. Do you think I should shoot it first to test it for fuction ? Or should I attempt to wrestle with the barrel and extention to straighten them? The port is maybe 1/16" off. Thanks
Thanks man. I spilt a crush washer trying to put on a muzzle device and I only had one more so I wanted to know how much to torque it but then I realized I didn't have the right tools anyways but it was still a helpful video so thanks for that. I never thought of backing it off and then tightening it in again a few times.
I don't know how he has it secured but the best way to do it is to get a reaction rod that you can stabilize in the star chamber. Giessele sells one and so does Brownells. The reaction rod allows all of the torque to be applied to the barrel and not to the upper. The rods are useless on blowback AR installs though. 9mm, for example, has no star chamber and you have to torque it to a stabilized upper.
I like that multi-tool. I made the mistake of getting the tapco one that doesn't actually fit over the castle nut. I am trying to mention that in every video that is on the subject, so hopefully people will stop buying that garbage, and tapco actually has to fix it. Stupid wrench make Thor angry.
I've been using a Tapco wrench for a few years quite successfully. Maybe your's is somehow out of spec. I'd contact their customer service and see if they'll swap it out.
My crush washer seemed to flatten wider than the muzzle brake which I haven't seen before. I don't know why it did that. Also it seems to not be centered, it's more to the right than left as well. Do you know why it did that?
Crush washers naturally expand as they get crushed. They flair outward. I'd recommend a torque wrench, NEW crush washer, crow's foot and a shim kit along with whatever thermal adhesive or grease you were using.
hey bud sorry about a rude comment I made in another one of your videos. I was having under gassing problems with a hand cut 18 inch carbon fiber barrel and a seekings adj. gas block . and I don't have any real gunsmiths for hours from my location . and you commented their called gunsmiths . I know bud I usually do all the work myself. I just drilled out the port 1/64 inch bigger. seems to be fixed . sorry for that comment . and I do like most of your vids
Thank you so much. Just got a muzzle brake for a Remington 700 308 and I have never installed a brake before. Not to mention it’s my first rifle that’s not a youth size
Sorry but that is all wrong. Get a better (LOL) tool, and just straight up tighten it. Going back and forth is degrading the "crush washer", defeating the purpose...
Pretty much don't listen to OP or Rich on this. A crush washer is a one shot deal. You don't break torque like you are supposed to with a barrel nut. It degrades the crush washer. If you are applying rocksett instead of grease it won't even matter as long as you get it clocked correctly.
