Here is a left of field solution do it traveler style and hook up to the nearest lamp post in the street ! Job done and you don`t have to pay to charge your car. Winning 😁
Whatever you do decide.. the customer will have been led to believe a charger can be fitted for under £300 after the grant so there needs to be some "expectation management".
Quote for the job, find some easier work, decided that it's too much hassle, don't show up, block the customers number... I think that's how it works! 😂
As a British electrician but living and working legally in France for well over 15 years I am still astounded how the consumer units and supply heads look like something out of the dark ages. Meter boxes with kit mounted on bits of chip board and consumer units you couldn't swing a mouse in never mind a cat. I know the European system is more expensive but it's just better. Conduits for cables, decent sized boards, double pole MCBs everywhere and everything is protected by RCDs. Every supply head has a 500mA differential with consumer side isolation, even the ancient houses so no problem with fuses, seals or contacting the suppliers when you need to isolate the whole installation. All circuits are radials, more final circuits but much simpler. I don't envy you guys....I especially dislike twin and earth.... Give me conduits and singles any day of the week.... Ok that's my lot....good luck ;-)
And the owner will expect to get this for free because there is a government grant and her mate Susan got one for next to nothing when the grant was higher and it wasn't only for smart EV chargers. Obviously an electrician shouldn't earn any money so she will most likely throw you quote away and ask if anyone on Facebook knows a 'reasonably priced' electrician but he must also come with recommendations. This electrician who she expects to work for nothing must also guarantee the new charger for 3 years and come back for free if she has any problems in that time.
replacing split load RCD's for RCBO's in the board and putting smokes on the lighting will free up 3 ways (5 ways if you remove the doorbell transformer). Depending who owns the fence ajoining the neighbor you may not be able to run your cable to it, as there's lighting on it already this may be owned by the property you're working on. If it were my company we'd advise against an EV point at the back for the foreseeable future. However if the client is adamant they wish to go ahead, 10mm SWA up the outside of the front of the property, through the attic and down the back to avoid disturbing the finishes inside the house - sounds ridiculous but it's usually the cheaper and faster option.
Im thinking of getting into this ev charging install route and need to know a few more things yet - despite my industrial electrician background. How do you let a "client" know - You wouldn't be taking this job on?
@@LeighWinspear just say your busy and won't be able to take this job on for at least another month or so,due to the time it would take to do this job,let's face it it's a job from hell and you can only lose 👍
it couldn’t be a harder property to install, a real challenge and a good example too. I would definitely recommend fitting the EV charger inside the property boundary out of sight, it looks like the EV could quite close to the fence. 30M is a long run, could introduce under-voltage alarms in some EV sockets. So-many considerations here. Fascinating example.
I’d use a Zappi with its built in RCD protection, PME fault detection and CT clamps. All depends on cost, but in an ideal world I’d replace the plastic unit for an RCBO unit, spare ways and SPD. I’d run a T&E from the CU to a wiska box on the back wall then SWA from there. Of course the floors are a pain but using the holesaw and plugs it wouldn’t be a big problem.
Something very useful in this situation could be putting an endoscope through the floor void. a remote control car with tracks and camera can be used to pull a string through the ceiling cavity! attach cable and pull through, often use one under floorboards and voids. I have used a RC car to literally drive through the web joists to get from one end of a house to another before. used cable pulling lubricant to prevent snagging. I would likely fit a small din enclosure in the meter cabinet, contrary to belief these belong to the customer and not the DNO, WPD and SSE both do not mind enclosures being in them as long as main fuse is accessible. I would take cable up front of house (paint it) or put in conduit ideally concealed behind the vertical black drain pipe. which we often do in Bath due to planning issues. then through first floor cavity, using the right tools and techniques it could be fed to the back of the house with no damage to decoration, carpet will easily go back down with an hour or so of a professional fitter, which is less than the cost of ripping the walls apart. come out the rear through the bedroom, I would consider running cable over the roof and down behind the drain pipe. potentially using H07 on a short run. and then run in SWA below the garden/decking out to charger. I would fit a Zappi with Harvi devices for grid management and pv utilisation. Equally if there are DNO cables going through the parking area the cost of a new supply can sometimes be much more attractive and cost effective than running cables through houses with all the decorative issues afterwards. Regardless of option its a cost VS Time VS damage scenario.
Excellent video. Just what everyone wanted. You've covered all of the pit falls of this installation and i look forward to seeing how find a suitable solution to all of them.
Do what sky do and throw the cable over the roof and down the other side. Tie a hammer to a bit of armoured and you should get it over with a good swing. Then tack it to the fence and you're done. Cash in hand and no one needs to know.
Looks like a public path between that rear fence & the parking space - need to deal with the trip hazard. Check with local authority what's acceptable locally?
Change the consumer unit, 10mm out the back of it, up into the loft on the front and down the back, also have it on a separate post rather than the fence.
If this were factory wiring where I work, it would be some bell wire directly from the mains, zig zagged through the wooden fence and some zip ties holding up the charger. I don't think a homeowner would be too chuffed with it though lol. Excited to see how this goes.
My power supplier, western power distribution, do not use a main fuse greater than 84 amps, they also said a larger fuse would require larger fly Leeds. The other problem my supply is looped with next door.
If it’s marginal for 10mm2 then go with it to give some flexibility on cable length. How about split consumer tails in service box, take new feed straight out of service box up the front of the house (will need ‘fuse’ as effectively tails are more than 3m), through the soffit board across the loft, re-emerge and then back down the rear elevation with an IP55 or higher CU with surge and MCB fitted to rear of the property. Then as per normal to point of charger mounting.
Is the electric heated floor in the bathroom, really a no go option to route the cable under? Wouldn't you at least try to rod through and see how far you can get? Trying, the most direct route, at least could prove worthwhile.
Throw the cable over the roof job done. Only joking. I would consider replacing the consumer unit with Type A RCBO's in metal consumer unit and surge protection. May be find a way to run a cable through the loft and clipped direct around to the charging point. It would be nice to have a stable fixing for the charger itself so may be a post/stand with built in charger rather than a fence because we all know they are not stable enough when some fancy name storm comes along. Thanks for the video and looking forward to seeing how you would get it done!
On my 2020 new build with TNCS I have been provided with a regular single 13A socket, wired in 6mm T+E directly below the CU, on a 32A MCB labeled "car charger" that is grouped with a floor of the houses type AC RCD. You can use this socket in the garage to charge a car outside. The NICEIC registered contractor saying that it's a "general use" circuit and therefore compliant. House sold with "EV charging point", electrical designs say it's "for vehicle charging". What a mess!
@@Swwils it's not a good solution - we'll take a closer look at what the current bare minimum is for new build houses. We thought most just ran an empty conduit to and empty charger box.
@@efixx Some local authorities require EV charging points as a planning condition. It appears that builders interprete this as a 13 amp socket but even so, my reading of section 722 is that it covers this so that socket requires PEN fault protection and an appropriate RCD. Rolec do a chargepoint casing with a 13A socket and sell the guts of their type 2 chargepoint so the owner can get it upgraded.
I have an external 3pin socket at the front of my house. Can I leave the cable to my fuse box in place and just swap the external socket box with a 7KW EV charger box? 🤞🏻
What a nightmare of a cable run had a similar one had to go up to loft over and down 10mm 3 core I had to install in the end. What is the ground floor like ?
From consumer unit to outside, clipped up the front of the house into the soffit, through the loft, down the back wall and some heavy duty cable tray along the fence.
Look at upgrading board if budget allows, otherwise dedicated mini cu for charger. Run cable up in to loft and drop down other side. Allowing 40m (added extra length to get in loft) a 7kW load in 10mm2 cable would have a volt drop of 2.3% so well within tolerances. I would mount the charger onto a post, more secure than fitting to wooden fence that may be changed in the future. Another thing to consider - is there a public footpath between the fence and parking space, could there be a trip hazard?
If the ground floor is screed, then it might be possible to run cable through a conduit. It will be dependent on the depth of the screed, and there are some rather vaguely worded regulations about protection. Of course steel would be ideal. Such a solution would have the potential to minimise cable runs, but it's fairly drastic. Also, there may be other services, typically central heating pipes buried in screed, which would be a major issue, not to mention disruption to the floor. Not too bad for carpet of course, but a real issue for tiled floor and some other types of hard surfaces. Then there is directional drilling under the property, but I imagine that's incredibly expensive and is a very specialist job. As far as the CU is concerned, a move to RCBOs would free up several slots, but I think if that was done then it would be with a new metal unit.
Doncaster Cables EV Ultra 4.0 mm will deliver 42 amp circuit. Assuming clip direct this would be good and give us bang on 11.52 volt drop, I think we can do with that over 30 metres. Unless the routing is in insulation we could stick with 4.0mm. Maybe we go to 6.0 mm if we have concern over distance and installation routing. If we need CT or other data connection, as this is a long way for wifi to connect reliably to the Broadband wifi router the EV ultra with data cables would pay on the grounds of not having two cables to install and reliability of connection.
I would fit the charging unit on the inside of the fence with a 5/7.5m cable and take a tiny notch out of the bottom of the gate so you can close it with the cable under. They are becoming quite the target for thieves due to the value of the cables. If the customer does not want to do that then I would recommend an untethered charger again due to potential theft.
I’d probably opt for a new 1 or 2 way consumer unit given the existing cu is not high integrity, and even if you did double up smokes onto a lighting circuit for example to gain a spare way, it is still protected by a type ac Rcd 😞 You don’t show it on the video , but is the kitchen below the bathroom obviously on the ground floor level? If so, could you get the cable behind the kick boards of the kitchen base units? And run out to the rear external wall that way? It is a very tricky layout to run new cables!! Also you may consider running the internal cable in t&e then changing to swa somewhere by the rear external wall??? Lots of points to consider here 🤷♂️
Use the PV as the primary charging source backed up with battery in the loft for when the car charge isn't connected. Is there any way of using the PV circuit to the CU as the feed from CU to loft back down to the EV system for when the sun doesn't shine? If not use fire alarm way (connect them to another 6A circuit) to add 32A. Hard to understand possible cable routes without assessing the building fully. Use Zappi charger with PEN fault detection and RCD. No clipping to fence but I would defo bury those cables to Zappi if I could.
Nice video gents. Looking forward to seeing your solution, especially if using electronic protection at the charging point. Having filmed four installations as part of our online course and looking at the scenario you've presented, I might be having a very long "setting expectations" chat with the homeowner....and ask how far their nearest public charging point is :D
Combine a cct to free up mcb position, smokes as already suggested, pole mount Zappi, harvi with CT's (if reception of zappi allows) as solar and built in PEN detection as tn-cs and no earth rod required. 3 conductor 6mm swa under patio once out back, but that route through building 😱
I suspect that flat roof out back eliminates the use of joist drilling through the first floor. - If it doesn't, just watch out for it being an engineered floor: joists made of engineered timber and sheet chipboard interlocked to allow joist spacings to be greater. I cut a hatch in one (years ago when these types of floor were new to me) and felt I had weakened it. They aren't (or weren't) designed to be cut and drilled afterwards.
Hmmm. Interesting new garage unit in the meter cupboard. Run the swa under the downstairs floor to the outside. Run a small duct by the front of the fence. Up to the charger
Iv just ordered my new car and have got the guys coming to fit my plug the 5 pin one. But I’m moving home soon so can I undo it myself then fit into the new house then just get someone to ok the fit
Put smoke detector circuit on with the lighting circuit. Then create a space between the main switch and RCCD (If the CU has 3 neutral bars). Depending on customer requirements/budget mini surface trunking is the easiest/cheapest maybe you can route straight up to the attic, then through the attic? Down the external wall maybe? Definitely, install a Zappi for the PV, load monitoring and PEN fault requirements. (Install a Harvi also so you don't need to hard wired the CT clamp) The EV charger can be fixed to the wooden fence IMO as it's a fixed structure but, making sure you don't induce a trip hazard risk in the process.
why do you have to have only 7 kW in a domestic situation why is there an issue running 400V? is it the armed cable to the property that's the problem?
What will it cost to "shoot" a (plastic) pipe with a "rocket" under the building/foundation? Just like what is used for pushing gas pipes under a road from one side to the other and through to a building.
Honestly don't know what I'd do there. Is it an option to go low level through under the stairs? Maybe fit a small 2 way board in the meter cupboard (I know I know, sue me) then take a cable out of there down the front wall, into the hallway at low level, under the stairs, then under the kitchen cabinets? The back of that house is a nightmare to come out at first floor level. I'd do that as a last resort.
Will be interesting to see what you come up with. I have a similar situation and hoping to lease an ev. Mid terrace house with the consumer by the front door and the parking hardstanding is at the bottom of quite a long back garden. The house does though have floorboards and a half basement.
I wonder in this instance and other cases where say the garage is in a block away from the property so not even any way to run a cable staying within the property boundaries if it would be possible to ask the electricity supplier/DNO to give you an additional supply on a different meter etc?
I would be happy to install that for $50,000 aud. And it would be done in a week. Plus 3 months repair work. Remove ceiling run cable dig trench for cable. Concrete pad for new charger pole and WALLA. But with Covid I may not be able to do it for 2 years until I get a Vaccine in the good old Straya.
Long shot but could you run the cable in the cavity between the 2 properties ( the boundary wall ), I am fully aware there is insulation between the block walls but it could be worth a shot.
! ev charger supply at the end of the street. Cable under the road supplying each property individually card payment device on each charger. Less disruption, less chance of disaster, less diy bodging, simpler quicker cheaper installation one hit for the whole street. So instead of a 3rd world daisy chain effect we get a standard addition to infrastructure. Lets hope all those transformers and sub stations get upgraded this decade.
Is there a possibility to sink a new (flush mount) consumer unit which could get you into the cavity as a starter for 10 at least? See where you can get to from there (as in up and over).
If we need to take care about broken PEN on a TN C S earthing arrangements why are there no similar requirements for other electrical installation like electric gates or even for outdoor sockets if RCDs do not help with a broken PEN?
A good point - someone has done a risk assessment - but aren’t sharing the numbers. We think it’s down to the high load of 7kW compared to what’s typically used outdoors.
I think i would be taking down the brick wall at the front of the property and create a hard-standing to use a an off road parking space. This will almost ensure that only their vehicle will charge from their charger. Putting a charge point outside the boundary of the property (i.e. at the rear) may require 1/ contacting the local council, 2/ ensuring that only they can charge a vehicle from the charging point. 3/ Ensuring the install is as vandal proof as possible. 4/ Taking out extra insurance for public liability (should anyone become electrocuted by a vandalised charge point).
Affixing to a wooden fence? I dont have the 18th ed. But I wouldn't. A wall yes, it's more permanent and less likely to be replaced. Wood not really, it rots and not substantial enough. Install a concrete post, if you have to go above ground use pvc swa pvc with added protection throughout its length.
Similar to the "buy a new pair of running shoes above". But seriously though. Im thinking of getting into this ev charging install route and need to know a few more things yet - despite my industrial electrician background. How do you let a "client" know - You wouldn't be taking this job on? How do you make the effort to engage them, look at the whole task, then decide "no fkin way" and politely decline? What excuses/reasons do you use? cheers in advance of any response.
@@LeighWinspear honesty is always the best policy. I would just politely say it's a particularly awkard installation and isn't a project I'll be looking to take on, but thank you for your enquiry.
Put solar panels in rest of the street or build a wind turbine next to car park space conceal wires under gravel instant charging point and saved 30m of cable
Duration and diversity, and data for their upstream network reinforcement. The concern is drawing 7KW for hours overnight rather than a 10 minute shower which won't overlap too much with the neighbours. Load curtailment will save the service fuse but the combined load is still higher for longer.
Hi guys I need some advice please I have a upstairs flat I am replacing the consumer unit the tails need replacing they are 25mm and run up a cavity can I run my tails through a cavity and add a 100A switch fuse isolator, I have read you can not run tails in a cavity only straight through a cavity, any suggestions guys anything would be appreciated thanks 👍.
What would be better, is if you give the job to an installer that is under pressure to install 3 or 4 per day. I’m a spark, and I had an installer do my EV charger, as with the grant, I couldn’t buy a charger for less that I could get it installed under the grant. The installation was terrible, compression glands either side of the SWA, guy wouldn’t go into the loft for “insurance reasons”, he wanted to install plastic trunking across a bedroom ceiling?
@@efixx then depending on location within the ring. Reconfigure it to make that a radial leaving ring in tact (depending on cable size) or if still not feasible then just provide a lower powered charger that is fine to be plugged into the ring . Takes longer to charge but is a viable option. The other option is to use the solar also . Hopefully you will post your solution at the end . And I know you said no access to loft space bu be amazed what you can do with a ferret cam and some rods to pull a feed out
Interesting little job. Carpets up on the first floor and cutting access panels/holes in the chipboard would see the least collateral damage The isolator tails also need sorting out as there’s basic insulation visible Yes, it’s in a ‘locked’ cupboard but how many do we see with their doors swinging in the breeze or missing?
Lots of paperwork for an EV install - this form has to go to the DNO. / www.energynetworks.org/assets/images/Resource%20library/EV%20HP%20Application%20Form%20v9.6.docx
1 Wait until they've bought the car before you price it and call you at least 3 times. 2 Produce a full schedule of all materials and confirm the cost. 3 Produce a full schedule of works and estimated time 4 Add Items 2 and 3 5 Double Item 4 6 Add Vat @ 20% to Item 5 7 Add between 10 and 20% for overheads to Item 6 8 Add 10% Operating costs to Item 7 9 Think about the profit 10 Add 20% to item 8 for Profit 11 Think about a bit more profit 12 Add 5% to item 10 11. Round it up to the next £1000 12 Request 50% deposit for Materials 13 Get Pjtor to do it for £150 cash
I’d look at a separate unit from the meter box up to the loft. Possibly to a consumer in the loft next to the solar and then out and down to the back gate, but of course it’s public...so can you run under the path way and put it on a post in that specific parking bay? I could be way out so 🤷🏻♂️
@@ChristopherKaneTV 😢 what a pain! Don’t make it easier to retrofit do they. I do admire the Europeans for using ducting inside for ease of cable runs.
How about getting one of those "outdoor socket kits" from Homebase, an extension lead down the garden and plug in a Granny charger? £50 all in.. (Cos that's what you're competing with.)
@@paulgoffin8054 You need DNO approval before commissioning if the new maximum demand is over 60A. That said, the stickers on the fuse carriers are usually accurate particularly if the seals are intact.
@@paulgoffin8054 I've tried this enquiry on several occasions with different DNOs around the country and not one of them could tell me over the fuse rating over the phone. In fact, on several occasions they've said to me "if you're an electrcian you can just take the fuse out and have a look".
@@Blackf1ngers I certainly wouldn't expect them to say over the phone, that would be ridiculously risky. Yes, someone needs to open it and check and some DNOs are OK with that being by the electrician on site, others are not.
Id change the board, drill at an angle from the back of the board to behind the front drain pipe, clip up behind the pipe into the loft, across the loft , down the behind back drain, clip around the flat roof, down behind the extension drain, under the deck then bury under the slabs .. as for charging point, depends on the area, id be tempted to have the box in the garden so it doesn't get tampered with .. more meterage on cable , but saves ripping the house to pieces
Sounds about right, especially keeping the box in the garden with the fly-lead heading under the gate/fence when in use. Wonder what the ground floor is made of (maybe I missed it) as that would be a shorter run (if its not a concrete slab) and less associated voltage drop. Looking at the charger unit, I'd think a Zappi would be best suited to integrate with the solar pv and possibly a storage battery
@@royking1 i'm guessing the main house is block and beam and a slab for the extension, a bit more info would be handy, yeah id go with a zappi, battery storage is a must these days , just get one that wont have capabilities of grid sharing like they plan to with tesla, why would i spend all that cash on a solar install, only for the grid to use it ... bow-locks to that
You need to factor in the risk of the EV car getting nicked too if it is a dodgy area and maybe need a heavily armoured charging cable looped through the cars wheels and padlocked in place!