Very informative video, thanks for posting...I have a question about using this (Columbia Tools) product ...Can it be used (using the smaller blades) to do taping ? The smoothing blades are more flexible so was wondering if they could be used or are there more rigid blade systems? I have a garage that needs a second and third layer of mud, but I need an extension and was originally looking for a rigid tape knife with an extension...space limitations requite me to use an extended reach product, if one exists specifically for taping...
Yo guys should do a video like this but in Spanish, we sell Level 5 Tools, Dewalt, Loutil Parfait and a bunch of other brands in South America, obviously the mind set is different, people up north a more open minded to making there job easier, while down south people think that just cause you work harder is better. a video like this in Spanish from a newbie, would help people down south here a lot better.
Hi ok so, 3:05 in, what was he doing with that roller. Cuz 1st he applied the mud with a regular taping knife, correct? Then… what did he do? Was that more coats of mud only much wetter & then applied with a skimming blade? And afterwards you asked TJ which one he liked better? So was this an either or application? If I were to perform this task would I want to just pick one or the other?
I purchased the Columbia blade thanks to your vid a few months back. It’s still painful to watch an apprentice it’s like give me the knife but not bad for a super newbie
I bought my knives on alibaba direct and saved a tone of money. 3 sizes and 3 extra blades and a hard case. They work amazing. No brand name but I don’t want to spend the money to pay for brand marketing on there tools when I can get the same for 1/4 cost
Can you please teach me why the second coat looks yellow?? I'm starting into compound business and I want to know because I've seen everyone applying the yellow coat..thank you!!!!
If you don't have the mud in your face, you ain't trying. New guy is doing good. Seeing a newbie do it is relatable to us DIYers with no to moderate experience so a good example.
I just got the columbia 32 “ I sighted down looks super wavy . Is that common on these thin blades ? Just curious . Keep making these killer vids mahalo 🤙🏾
The young ones love the fancy tools haha. Gone are the days hawk and knifes. Ah well, like you say, cheaper and good xp for them As the trade is going to continue expanding into this advanced tools way
Me personally, time is key. I dont think those skimming blades were made for that. Its more for patches, popcorn, stepple removal. I seen some of your others vids... But new work seams, butt joints. I wouldn't use that. Run the box bro! Some things in drywall just don't change. Take the bazooka ( still has no motor)
Agree 👍 we usually run the 10 then 12 but always have to cross the joints after since we run the flats and buts at the same time. For this home I told the guys to leave the buts to see how it would work with just the skim. Over all it came out nice and alot less touch up. We don't do it for all our home but it in this case it helped.
Why not box the butt joints straight through the bands (3x wide triple pass down middle, and both sides) with a 12" box, and then chase them with a 14" blade? Just a suggestion.
I actually stopped using that method around 10 years ago. Shoulder pain is what prompted the change but I also discovered that I'm quicker using a trowel going 32 - 36 inches wide
Hmm. No way a trowel is faster than a 12” flat box for splitting out joints. If your shoulders can’t take it I understand. Mechanical boxes are a bear to push. Especially if you top it off with a 14” box. I know the pain personally.
@@endoalley680 I understand your analogy which is typically true. However, there's a couple of things to consider. With a trowel, I only need one coat over the tapes on textured ceilings. Two coats on anything painted. Using the box requires 3 coats. That also adds drying time and more rough sanding time. I'm also quite the beast with a trowel. I started off as a plasterer. If you've ever seen a real plasterer use a trowel my statements would be much easier to accept.
@@endoalley680 I understand. No one believes it. I'll do a video soon for you then. I've been using that method for ages. There's quite a few ultra high-end houses in the mix as well. Remember that I stated that the single coat butt joints are under knock-down spray. The walls are two coats.
Like ever where it varies but a good base to get a average is the union wage which is 44 an hour with healthcare/ dental and 9hr retirement and 4 vacation. The down side is theres only about 6 months of work a year for most. Entry level apprentice make 30% of journeyman wage with a raise every 1000 hours.
@@artisticdrywall7368 it's good if you own a mark 5 or bigger to be able to feed the tools but it does speed up production. To me it only makes sense if your going to do a big commerical build hauling around the mark 5 would get old quick if it was residential I would take it home daily since it's a 8k rig . The bazooka and coating angles make the biggest difference I found the boxes to be just as heavy if not heavier only plus is no filling require.
There are some veterans that will do some of the sloppiest drywall jobs you've ever seen. They just want to finish as fast as possible and become speed artists and leave you with walls that are barely passible at best. If its a somewhat small job I'd rather hire someone who's not a veteran.
Bless the team this is way solve crime in Hood teach young a man's Trade. Most Contractors in Hood don't live there they taking millions back to Suburban neighborhoods.
