Thin-film interference is where the refraction comes into play. If a coin doesn't have any refractive qualities then it is usually cleaned at one time. Refraction: the fact or phenomenon of light, radio waves, etc., being deflected in passing obliquely through the interface between one medium and another or through a medium of varying density. Translucency: is a superset of transparency: it allows light to pass through, but does not necessarily (again, on the macroscopic scale) follow Snell's law; the photons can be scattered at either of the two interfaces, or internally, where there is a change in index of refraction.
Thank u very much for that it's really an awesome helpful.. But If u don't mind can I send u a pictures of some coins & Help me to know if it cleaned or not ?
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I'm all new to this coin collecting and the information about. I totally agree with your post. So it's some big secret on how the "coin restoring professionals" clean a coin? And no one can properly clean a coin, unless you spend money for someone else to do it for you, for them to make a prophet for their hours of work. I say it's a total BS con.
Thanks for making videos like this one. I have been collecting for over 50 years and still have a hard time spotting cleaned coins. I like to think I am better at it than I use to be. After getting burned too many times over the years, I only buy slabbed coins today and even then very carefully ! I enjoy your channel. 😀
Same here! I started collecting over 60 years ago and am at the point that I'd rather have the coin in a plastic tomb than be fooled that it's a valuable coin. While this video is a great into to spotting cleaned coins, I could still get fooled. Cheers!
Wow! I haven’t ever heard any other coin videos go into the depth on cleaned coins as yourself! Very impressed! Will keep watching your videos!😊👍🏼Lots of Love Bobbi 😊
Have seen over a dozen of CH videos and this one belongs in the Top 10% folks. It is a lot to get on the first run, so save this link. Main takeaways, abridged: 1. NEVER clean a coin 2. Restorations if needed can be done by PCGS/NGC. 3. Look at coins from different ANGLES [e.g. dark frosty layer] and get several pics from several angles before buying and TYVM Daniel!
This is one of the best videos on this topic I’ve ever seen! Even though those coins have cartwheeling luster, they were still cleaned. Thanks for the useful info! You just gained a new subscriber!
You have got good eyes. If anyone buys coins on line always make sure the photos are in focus and from multiple directions. Make sure the dealer will take returns prior to ordering. Also then make sure any hairlines match up in the on-line photos and details of the coin received. Even then know sellers often have poor lighting or multi-source lighting that can make seeing details troublesome. I have been collecting for many years and absolutely can not afford high end coins, but even on lower value coins all collectors need to know how to grade or you will overpay and never get your value back out of a coin. Also everyone needs to know and research PVC residue and how to identify it. PVC is like a cancer to coins and the PVC cancer will only get worse with time. So many coins have PVC and once you own a coin that PVC needs to come off the coin because leaving it on will absolutely destroy the coins value whereas a cleaned coin will lose value, there are many people who will settle for properly light cleaned coin for a discount. A harshly cleaned coin will usually be worth no more than its metal or face value and the same is true for coins with PVC pitting. Everything this man said was gold for spotting cleaned coins!
I wanted to take a moment to thank you so very Much for taking the time to help us or at least me to learn so much about coins and how to care for them and how to look for keepers and non-keepers. Thanks so much for saving me from making some serious mistakes. Have a great week.
I accidentally cleaned a BU peace dollar that look like the two peace dollars you show in the video. I only had a few BU coins and thought the “blast white” finish needed to be wiped off with a cloth, so that’s what I did, but no chemicals or other cleaners were used. I wish I had seen this video first. This video has lots of quite helpful information. Well done my friend.
Dear Daniel. I will be trying to have my coins graded in the next month or 2. I will only hold myself accountable if I do not get the grading I thought. I am trying so rediciousally hard to choose my favorite errors and also what I believe is a meticulous coin. Thank YOU And all the coin dealers, helpers,and just the whole audiences THAT have ONE THING in common. Thank YOU we all love coins.Thank YOU
Exceptional video, Daniel! This can apply to any coin/composition, but now I've got to inspect my grandfather's Morgans for cleaning. My Pop Pop never would have cleaned them, but my MOTHER will polish anything silver that can't run away! 😳Have learned so much from you! Thanks for all you do! 🤗🪙💰🪙💚
This has helped me so much! I debate whether or not a coin I'm interested in is cleaned or not. It is sometimes really difficult to tell. Your tutorial has really informed me on how to better spot a cleaned coin! Thanks for this!
3 generations back my grand father taught me how to clean coins. He used a large pink eraser VERY GENTLY to just clean the very highlights or to show the date better BUT he always told the new owners what he had done. Me I prefer to use a glasses cleaning chamois BUT AGAIN very gently and only enough to slightly brighten the high lights NEVER enough to scratch or mar the coin and I also always tell the new owner what I have done (though to the really average eye and often the collector you can not tell BUT I know). I do not like using chemicals of any kind since that does eat away at the coin and over the years it will start to stain the coin no matter how careful you are and how well you dry it off. By the way when I do use a red rubber eraser (if I have to) I always use cotton tipped tweezers and ONLY use enough pressure to hold the coin I also ALWAYS set the coin on a terry cloth towel so as to not scratch the reverse side. And when I look at coin that looks to good to be real I look to see of it has been cleaned and how the reverse side looks as off someone had set it on a hard surface. Finally INVEST in a jewelers loop or a really quality magnifying examine the coin (As well as a pair or two of cotton gloves about $5.50 at your local costume shop or tux shop) IF THE SELLER DOES NOT WANT TO LET YOU EXAMINE THE COIN UNDER LIGHT WITH A GLASS RUN DO NOT WALK BUT RUN TO THE FRONT DOOR. You are about to get screwed and likely not get kissed
DAVID VINCENT It’ll soon be Halloween so very cheap white gloves can be purchased just about anywhere, eg Walgreens, Walmart, Michael’s/Hobby Lobby (art suppliers), etc.
I love your videos! The other coin channels are entertaining and serve a purpose for what their mission may be. With that said if I want knowledge, information or just an honest no bs approach to something coin related this is the place I look to! Keep up the good work it’s not unnoticed!
I know you have seen a little of everything, when it comes to coins and the knowledge is greatly appreciated by many ! I was going through some pennies and found quite a few that had different colors of paint, and colors of grit along with shiny ,like nickel cobwebs all over them . Well the grit tastes salty, and they are stamp marks on the substance, along with letters etc etc !!! From the 60s thru 2004 so far . Thanks for any info .
Lol love the save of the refrection to refraction. Well done. Thanks for this. I bought 6 almost bu peace dollars from an lcs. An guys at the club said 2 were cleaned. The shop owner said they weren't I dont believe they are. You gave me the things to look for. Thanks bud, you're the most helpful channel
Good content. I learned a lot from this. I'm very pedantic about coins and particularly allergic to any kind of abrasive cleaning that's obvious when you meet the coin in person which wasn't visible in the auction photos. I've actually thrown such coins IN THE GARBAGE in a fit of rage. It's actually a good thing to do so you don't come across it later and be RE-enraged by it. The only cleaning I've ever done was non-oxidising chemical cleaning using solvents like benzene, acetone, and alcohol. I've bought large lots where the guy sent it to me wrapped in a baseball-sized lump with 200 layers of cellophane tape. After spending 45 minutes getting the tape off this, it naturally required the use of benzene to get the adhesives off. In the 1800s some collectors would coat their coins in shellac, and the only thing that dissolves that is alcohol. I've also used alcohol to disinfect coins which I suspected may have been contaminated with infectious biological material, like when the seller sent them to me wrapped in a VERY used bathroom carpet, or another case where she had placed the coin inside a cardboard toilet paper roll and folded over where the roll was obviously contaminated.
Sun Rabbit I have only been roll searching for between 3 and 4 year's and only being able to get quarters lately due to lires or the lie or the deceptive nature of people who say it is only their job I have found a semi rare quarter error. I have a pretty ugly coin that most likely would look much better cleaned. As such I dare not attempt cleaning even putting it in dishwater might spoil any value a 2009 Duke Wellington DDR with the ELL clearly visible using a loop even with my sight being poor due to my age. For over a week I have resisted the urge to send it to PCGS. It's scratch on the obverse is long and on the neck of George. It is pretty bright otherwise and I have been trying to imagine what it would look like were cleaned up and graded. Not having learned to make good pictures of coins put brake's on listing it on ebay so I am sure in a pickle having no idea what the best route to take is. I'd spend a hundred bucks on it if I thought it would bring two or more times than that. I forget but recently I saw something in which one had brought like 3k. Knowing my coin probably is just a fair circulated example how
@@decoy2636 In your case I would suggest taking it to a coin dealer in person. The only other type of non-destructive coin cleaning technique I know of is using ULTRASOUND, and most dealers who specialise in ancient coins will have one. These are usually not the typical ultrasound cleaners you can buy for cleaning glasses or jewelry but high-powered ones costing a lot of money. I completely understand your situation with your eyesight getting weak with age, since I myself was diagnosed with cataracts which I was supposed to have had an operation for 15 years ago but chickened out. The solution for that (at least for me) was buying a DIGITAL MICROSCOPE. This is the best thing for checking huge quantities of coins, something I do myself, and it's very comfortable on your eyes. Beginning of this year I bought 10,000 US Cents at a flea market here in Germany for just 100 Euros and spent 3 months going through it. Result? TWO Wide AMs!! (I forget the date but I believe 1992) and about half were Wheats. The digital microscope is great because you see the whole coin as big as your computer screen. Just make sure it has a good light source. Regarding professional coin cleaning I'd suggest finding all the coin dealers in your area and calling them up, and asking them if they'd do it for you.
@@SunRabbit Thank you for your kind words and response. I am wet behind the ears on this and have struggled to remain grounded although I don't know how many exist this one has been making rounds for a good decade and would have been written off if it was a deductible item on taxes. I'm sorry to hear about your cataracts as I only use a 325 magnifying cheater to weld. My eyes were my best asset under the hood working as a Boilermaker in my past life. She is gone now but I was sure proud to find a coin that anyone else might be interested in. I have a Kennedy half, and a California quarter both of which have places the clad has turned loose and resulted in bubbles. Having welded quite a bit of clad in my career I'm fully aware that they're probably just coins that had concentrated heat applied at some point. I have fought that trying to get tied into the thicker inferior metal. It's a bit.. to make look decent once it turns loose and then a nightmare sometimes getting it sealed and intact so it passes a dye check test. It's useful to allow wear surfaces more life and cheaper inside smoke stacks or tanks as a liner. I appreciate your advice and I will drive to the next town and see if the shop I have dealt with on silver is still in business. I have hid from it and local gun and pawn shops since my 38 year marriage failed. I refused to let her come back home and had to pony up so to avoid temptation I have avoided those places where it's hard to stay "sober" or solvent. Maybe that guy with the temptations of silver can help me, you have and have my thanks. I just hesitated since sending it away only to learn that due to condition it's worth less than the cost. I can see how the rush you get could cause a reaction like hitting a lick shooting craps does. Thank you for the words coming from calm and reason.
You're the first person that explained what I've been up against arguing for the last half a century plus I started in the 60s but not doing it every day but I've argued that what about contaminants hygienic and things that you can get off of it and people go you don't want to clean it I'm not talking about using a wire wheel I'm talking about using a disinfectant chemical cuz you're going to find all kinds of stuff on there and then you're going to touch yourself and people would argue no don't ever clean it well there's also stuff underneath the contaminant that you can't see that is an error and I would only do it like acetone or alcohol and that's been my argument with people say don't clean it but then you get a sticky film on your fingers what is it? But then again certain contaminants are on their biological contaminants and that has been the argument so you can't tell me that a coin Grading Company doesn't remove something?
@@brantardrey7360 For removing infectious contaminants, the best way is 97% denatured alcohol. They sell it here for 2 Euros a liter, so super cheap because it's not drinkable. That gets rid of nearly everything on the surface and will dissolve shellac. It won't damage the coin in any way, and unless it's on your skin for hours on end, it's gentle on the skin too. That sticky dark film you get on your hands from handling large amounts of old coins is hand grease plus dust particles. These dust particles can include bacteria, viruses, spores, and atmospheric contaminants. Depending on the lot, you can get rid of that using regular dishwashing detergent, acetone, or benzene (lighter fluid) by placing the coins in a jar with the solvent and moving it around sufficiently to expose all the coins to it, then rinsing in pure water and drying them out.
Would love to see another video or a few on the nuances of different types of cleaned coins. Specific targets to look for maybe on mercury dimes, buffalo nickels, any other coins that may have different tricks or specific warning sighns specific to them. Thanks Dan!!
Awesome video, i’ve been trying to learn the basics of identifying cleaned coins and this was a huge help. After watching this vid, I don’t believe that my prize coins were ever cleaned and that is amazing for obvious reasons. Learning about how that outer layer changes after cleaning was a huge help.
Thanks for making these videos, I try not to ms70 clean nor dip any of my coins however I have. As only being 3 years into learning how to grade and judge wear/details of coins your videos are extremely helpful. Thanks 😊
IDK Dan, I agree with u. What your saying is spot on. This is also why I would never buy anything of value online & it's like u say. The only way to really get a good look at what ur buying is to hold it in ur hand & move it around to better see the angles & what they produce.
Ive just started collecting. Morgans are my favorites. My Morgans appear original and mostly no mint marks. For now Im buying coins I like and no intention to sell. Thank you for all your viseos! I am learning a lot!
Wow nice job i have learned more from you out of one video than watchin certain other youtubers careers. Thanks i am a father of 2 young girls just started getting them in to this and it is a blessing to have someone lile you to learn from. Thanks.
I have been buying 90% in bulk, all common dates all have been picked through. I find coins like Washington quarters that are brilliant, with no wear, you still see the breast feathers. I find great value in that coin even if it is only worth melt. I like the cull morgans, they are a great coin. I can't find anything wrong if I want to clean them. I will practice on them. I have seen damaged coins, good video.
Great video! No one on you tube that I know goes into the details of coin grading and the bad apple's like you have! Keep up the great work and info! Go Buck's!
Im getting really good at spotting cleaned coins coin roll hunting since alot of people were cleaning there change because of C. Hate to see people done that, but glad I'm picking up on that. Thanks for the video Daniel!
Wow I found that out myself yesterday. I cleaned a penny that had a very brilliant shine to it and luster ,but I thought that it could be brought out more but after I clean the coin it was a different color the luster that it first had was not there so I guess it lost that first thin layer of color that you were talking about. Thanks for the advice.
I just watched the toms gold dirt 99 dollar grab bag! That was awesome!!!! Ive been subbed for a while but I was just coming by to let tom know he has our support!
I'm getting a lot better at this, but you're right, it takes experience. I can spot a cleaned Morgan or Peace dollar a mile away, no matter how many filters the eBay seller uses. ;)
Great vid on a complex topic. I've had the opposite happen to me with a coin that looked like someone ran a wire brush across the surface. Then someone on a coin forum pointed out that they were polishing lines and not cleaned. That would be a good follow up to this vid. Cheers! Bob (I just saw vid thumbnail next to your vid, entitled "How to Clean Coins Using MS70 silver restorer) LOL
I always wanted to see how you can tell if a coin was cleaned. Thanks for the informative video. When I go to a coin show next time. I can look for any coins look like they have been cleaned.
@@ridgerunner7980 Then you just do not understand the intricacies of coin collecting. Bottom line is this: what you accept for yourself is totally your prerogative, and I agree for my own collection something that is only of moderate value, I might take a small risk to remove some horrible debris from it because it's disgusting. HOWEVER: what you personally accept with regard to devaluing is not going to matter when you want to sell or buy a coin! And that is what is being covered here: when you think there's no reason to "devalue" your coin, and you clean it, and then dealer after dealer turns you down... what good is your opinion then? That's all this is really about is what the numismatic standard is.
I also think a coin collector would use an approach as a coin having been cleaned to a seller to get a better price only to turn around and sell it for more . I like a little patina with coins that have been circulated for there intended purpose . You can take the fun out of any hobby if you get fixated on to much .
I have a 1923 AU Peace dollar that had this rust/tonig that looked like ahe was projectile vomiting from mouth and nose. I tried all kinds of soft ways to clean. Couldn't take it...it was hidius to look at. Cleaned it. Its definitely visible its cleaned but now I can at least look at it. :)
Man, if PCGS can put AU-58 on that 1902-S, how much confidence can we place in the grading services? Daniel here has shown coins previously, graded by the major services, in which the opposite problem seemed to exist: coins in "Unc. Details" holders (due to cleaning) with no apparent cleaning. That bothers me more and shakes my confidence. It leaves one asking, "Did they goof, or do I have some blind-spot when it comes to identifying cleaned coins?" Too bad the grading services don't give the customer a verbal blurb in MP3 or WAV as to what the grader has noticed as he grades the coin. Currently the customer gets back a coin in a holder with a grade that sometimes seems to lack all understanding, and there is no explanation.
You did a good video! It's so hard for me to see some of the things your talking about sometimes though cause I guess I just need more experience. Thanks for the great video! I've subscribed to your channel. Keep making these great videos! Thanks much!
Thanks Dan I almost cleaned my coins .Again another good video . I noticed how you tried to talk slower Thanks . You trying shows that you care about what you do. I think you are #1 as far as coins.Thanks.
I agree with you 100% on what you comment about the graders from Pcgs, I was burn with nice pennies I had send out to grade. 1959-D and all of the sudden a weak later I received my coins a 1959-D coiin wassold at 2500dllrs at Ms 66 jajaja and mine was graded at MS62
I don't know where I got it from but I had a handful of pennies in a paper bag that someone had given me and they had this weird toning on them and now that I'm watching this I think I know what it was someone must have done something to them. Thank you
It actually appears IMHO that you received TWO GIFTS from PCGS in that grading lot of Morgan dollars. The first coin is definitely cleaned and the MS62 graded coin has an awful lot of bagmarks in critical areas for a MS62. But that is the problem with TPG companies, inconsistency. Which is ironic as that is precisely the main reason for their existence in the first place. That's why it's up to the collector/dealer to be able to ACCURATELY grade any series of coins that you may be interested in purchasing. I'm the kind of collector who probably gives dealers nightmares when I walk up to your table, as I am well informed and extremely picky when I'm buying something. I might look at 40 or 50 coins of the same date/mintmark before I find the one I like. But it pays of in the long run as I currently have 39 coins up for auction this week on Great Collections and almost all have numerous bidders competing for them. As the saying goes "Quality sells itself."
That's why I use NGC. Yes PCGS gave you a gift on the cleaned Morgan. But, I'd rather have honesty and integrity in a grading company. Also, I only buy slabbed on eBay or if not slabbed in a genuine roll. I just don't trust eBay, mercari, letgo ect for ungraded coins.
Never trust Ebay. I've been ripped off to many times. After a while you get smart. Only buy coins on ebay that have been graded by ngc, pcgs or anacs. I also have a few igc graded coins.
To be honest with you, i was so stupid believing on Pcgs I trusted them more than my life and when I got my coins back , surprise surprise, I send out a 1969S proof Lincoln cent out of its proof box and it was a perfect 70 but when I received it back it was stain on the oberse wish they graded MS 62 no fucken way I said.. I never called them nor complain I just will go with NGC. Thanks for your info
I'm glad I remembered watching this and watched it again. I was about to dip a couple ddo Penny's in distilled water to see if I could get a splotch off them
Thanks so much. I just started a Morgan/ Peace dollar collection 6 so far The 1st one i purchased from JM Bullion is a 1928 Peace dollar. I think its a low mintage year. Great video I subscribed to your channel today Looking forward to more Thanks again
Buying a cleaned coin is bad for the hobby. When third party graders let one slip by it is unfair to the owner. High end priced coins suffer when this happens. I believe the TPG companys should be on the hook to make good on the coin and buy it back for its uncleaned price and reslab the coin as cleaned. Great video.
Thank you. As an extraordinarily photophobic coin novice, I have ceased any ebay aged coin purchasing for 1yo's Sweet Sixteen hoard. Thankfully, I didn't leap completely overboard, but I did drag my head upside down in the water enough to hack & gag some at my own ineptitude. This video points up some of that. On the bright side, I'm saving money & embarrassment at NGC by not throwing 'Stupid Money' after the 'Ignorant.' Helpful vid, especially since my monitor's 'Brightness' value is set to Zero and my computer's 'Night Light' function is always set far far into the red. I have to settle for purchasing new issue BU's, Proofs, & NGC slabbed coins. Early on, the price disparity in same new issues/grades for NGC/PCGS slabs made PCGS instantly suspect in my tiny mind. PCGS has a 'grading pics' download using Morgans, & it does not line up with NGC's print table of grades. This, in combination w/pricing variants both new & resale, I understood why NGC slabs commanded more resale respect.
To some extent I agree about some of the points made in this video but I have to take issue as to claiming that just because the frost is 'gone' on a Morgan dollar, does not at all mean it is cleaned. I have many slabbed certified Morgans from MS62 to 65 that have no frost at all. There is no reference to the term "Frost" as defined for uncirculated grades MS60 thru MS70. Yes, there are DMPL''s (Deep Mirror Proof LIke) terms that are used on slabbed MS coins which do show some 'frost' or Cameo type strike, but that just is the case for a die that happened to be 'basined' more extensively that normal. - a method used to polish the die back when Morgans were struck.
Thanks for you comment and watching my video. I am not implying that all coins without frost are cleaned, but that is one way to tell the coin in my video has been cleaned. I actually briefly address your issue at 8:21. Also the point of the video is to show that some coins in these top grading service holders are cleaned. Time and again I have seen this from resubmitting coins. Again, thanks for your comment!
Thank you! I've got an eye for details and the ones that have been cleaned stick out to me. My Mom gave me one that is maybe the same age as the ones you had graded and I saw right away that it looked different.
That 1902-S Morgan in PCGS AU-58 looks polished. That grader needs an eye exam! If this is the best PCGS can do, they're no better than any other grader unless it's SGS.
Hey Daniel, I (did) learn something from this video, Thank you. Now it's (your) turn to learn something....the (s) in debris, is Silent..lol😅 But seriously, Thanks for the vid, I had been wondering how to tell if one had been cleaned..appreciate it very much! Brian S.
Just use a wire brush. It leaves your coin super clean that it even clears out the images as I did to an expensive buffalo coin when I was a kid. I have been hearing it ever since from 30 years ago.
reflection and refraction: A coin and many things can reflect light. But refraction occurs when light goes THROUGH one medium and into another. For example, light is refracted when it goes through air then into water. It changes direction slightly at the interface. This is refraction.
As I stated in my description I know the difference and a thin film interference of the oxidized metal allows light to pass through and reflect back to the eyes. In painting it's called translucency. Light can pass through any thin film of almost any substance and reflect back. Nothing is "solid" completely.
Dear Daniel...i know how you love the Morgan.I have to agree with the grading. YOU bring us meticulous pups to learn and study.Take a deep breath and the h-ck with them. I SIMPLY do not understand it. I see penny's and other denominations of coins GRADED by them and I just shake my head.Alot of viewers from different sites ((coin teachers)) are not even want to invest in the time LET alone the money.Your Morgan ...and I am not PCGS. Is BEAUTIFUL and that darlin of a coin should have GRADED higher.I am more afraid people are backing out of PCGS because it's an inside matter. Well...Good for NGC then. When ( let me CALL myself a peon here for a moment) I think it's who you KNOW ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
I enjoy your informative videos Daniel even though I still make mistakes on my local coin purchases I am learning . I keep my mistake purchases and label them as learning experiences on some they were both cleaned and polished to death the loss of details is enough to make you ask why did they destroy a beautiful coin.
great video ty for some tips I've been buying coins from coins tv bu wheat pennies and some just look like they have streaks going all the way through the coin like it has been cleaned but I dont know for sure
How about some large cents and bust halfs. PCGS seems to love to put cleaned on a lot of them, and since high grade MS coins are rare the ones with light wear are often just assumed to have been cleaned if not to med very darkly.
Thanks for a great video on what to look out for. I want to mention also that people who post photos of coins that are blurred, or there is poor lighting... they are hiding something and anyone who buys that coin is asking for trouble. Those people should be banned from eBay or other community sale sites... it is unconscionable.
Oh, I see. EBay is going to start banning sellers based on the quality of their photography? I don't think so. The more sellers there are, the more money eBay makes. And who is going to be the judge about how good a photograph is? You got burned and now eBay has to change? Caveat Emptor. If eBay seems untrustworthy to you, stop buying coins on eBay!
@@jamesdarnell8568 WTF ...where do you get off accusing me of having been burned and now I am mad at eBay. I would NEVER go NEAR a vendor with a crappy picture so get the knot out of your knickers and calm down. There are tons of good photos on ebay...if you can't discern the difference... good for you ...you'll have that much more choices to shop from than I do.
Great video, thanks. I always clean up my coins,.. That will be the one's not being a upper quality coin... I'll happily clean my old beetle, but not my porsche . . Kind of.. 😊
Thank you, I appreciate this lesson. I recently cleaned a few of my coins to see how they would turn out. Being a bit ignorant to the game gives me a pass 🤪. I made up for it by purchasing an MS70 Morgan.
Removing or scratching metal = cleaning - coin metal altered Removing dirt from the surface = conservation = coin metal not altered "Acetone cannot meddle with the metal of your medal" - although a penny being treated w/acetone while exposed to direct sunlight may get a pinkish hue. Had PCGS been paid to "conserve" your 1923 dollar, it likely would not have been labeled as cleaned. Your 1902-S Morgan graded higher and not cleaned b/c you don't get what you pay for using these grading services. EZest dip: The grading companies say you cannot tell when it has been used properly. Take a common MS 1964 silver coin and dip it (properly - not over dipping...which is easy to do). You will see the luster on the coin has a "whiter" look than it did before the dip. I find it hard to believe the grading companies do not know this.
I worked in a museum and they had a whole department dedicated to restoration/curation of coins and jewellery. They would clean their coins by putting the coins on a plastic tray and running it in an ultrasonic cleaner. no acids or abrasives just distilled water. these were however not mint coins, and were done to stabilise corrosion.
The coins I find in the clothes washer are usually shiny as hell. I think I'm just going start throwing handfuls of coins in there when I do laundry. :)
Hi🤪You have enlightened me on coin collecting in so many areas I didn't even know existed or should be something I should be watching for. I'm very grateful that I ran across your site. Your detail is so much more than anything I've watched so far. Never even heard "plating blisters" before. Anyway, I've been saving all sorts of coine since I was a kid, that looked abnormal in my eye or stood out for some reason. At this point my question to you is is there any kind of a cloth to use just to brighten them up or are you not supposed to do anything?