Hi Dave! Just come across your channel. As an ex-college tutor and mechanic from years back, I'd just like to congratulate you on the construction, format and delivery of your content. Clear, concise, informative, details in all the right places, voiced with clarity - just the business. Super job! Thank you.
One of the best tutorial videos I've ever seen on RU-vid, I've been putting this job off on our A4 for 3 years now but I'm confident to tackle it now on the drive when the weather warms up. I'm going to measure that ball joint to see if it's an M12 or M14 before I order a kit. Thank you very much for making this video!
@@pnmbmw did them all yesterday including the top mounts and it all went very smooth. These two videos were a fantastic help so thanks for the creator for them.
Another great video Dave, and your comment about copper grease I hate seeing the stuff I banned it in my workshop years ago it has no place in a modern garage.
A very thorough part 1 Dave, I have never seen the pass through ratchet & sockets🤔 I must check out your store also, nothing like a real world man selling real world tools 🛠 👍
So many guys dont like doing these Dave , many have broken the aluminium frame when removing the long bolt , easily snap as we all know , and then it's big bucks for the frame , you've just got to do the job correctly like you have shown everyone, great kit with plenty new bolts ,like the pull cord idea , I did the Old dipstick chalk method the other day on an Octavia, top Video ,looking forward to part 2 👍👍
aye Mike, i watched a few utubes on this. Most are like hammer house of horrors. The cords are part of my kit when i wana pull something tight, fisherman's knot. Aye, wee bit of chalk kicking about on the bench comes in handy
@@davesterl I am in a temporary unit at moment as the landlord has had the unit over the top of me sandblasted, originally just outside , then inside and all the crap has come through the gaps on the wooden floor , so I am in a smaller unit with a 4 post ramp in at the moment , couldn't read the oil level , knew it was near as I replaced the oil n filter , didn't want to walk up to mine and open up, so had a look round and found a gaviscon tablet , snapped it in half and wiped the dipstick with it 😂😂, a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do , improvisation they say 👍😂💉
wish i had of watched this video first..i broke the top corner off getting the pinch bolt out had to buy a new knuckle..then discovered after fitting one side is m12 and other side (new one) is m14 ball joint fitting i just hope it will aling up when i take it for tracking... Fantastic tutorial thanks for video
To all those who are going to use the jackhammer along with the punch tool as in the video, I would like to inform you that this extension that is included in the punch tool kit has a larger diameter and sometimes has the tendency to lock into the aluminum knuckle (in place of the removed pinch bolt). Use caution. If the pinch bolt resists, it is worth using a small propane-butane gas torch (torch diameter less than 10mm). You only need to heat where the pinch bolt is in the knuckle, to a maximum temperature of 120-140 degrees Celsius. Shield the rubber covers of the upper control arm joints from heat radiation from a small gas burner with aluminum foil (shiny side out). Heating to higher temperatures makes no sense and is not good for the aluminum knuckle. I do not recommend using penetrating spray oils, as they only make it harder for the pinch bolt to slide out. The oil glues the oxidized aluminum together and turns it into a sticky paste. In addition, when heated with a torch, it can catch fire. One more note: connect the air hammer via a hose with a diameter of min. 10-12mm. Hoses with a smaller diameter do not allow the hammer to reach its maximum capacity. I would forget: Always in the pinch bolt fastening gaps, slide the kind of licks tightly so that during the work the hammer does not squeeze or expand this gap, along with the pink bolt movement.
Wow I realy need to get me one of those air driven hammer tools, Ive taken out 5 of those bolts from hell. And I really hate it, first time I wanted to meet the engineer team that came up with the idea so I could kick the whole teams arse
Glad you keep saying ‘don’t not put copper slip anywhere near Aluminum’… it causes galling of threads and galvanic corrosion. Use ceramic, nickle or Aluminum paste only!
Awesome video Dave as always packed with information, I only worked once in those Audi suspensions the other day and let's say I'm glad you put this video cheers mate 👍
I took an old screwdriver and opened up the two gaps at the spindle and removed the bolt by tapping bolt out by installing nut back on and hitting with hammer.Then used punch to get it out the rest of the way.
I just did my upper and lower control arms.I took an old screwdriver and opened the two gaps on the upper control arm to loosen bolts until i could remove bolt b
Great job Dave. I've done this on all my Audi's and that pinch bolt never gets any easier. The air hammer makes light work of it. Interesting regards the pinch bolt tool from Neilsen. Klann also make an extractor but very expensive. Swear by Meyle HD parts, quality stuff.
yeah well displacement CFM refers to the ability of the pump to draw air not the ability to run a tool. CFM FAD is what is actually delivered gives a better idea. Pressure wise, typical 100L twin piston rigs max at 116psi static. I run mine about 130psi static giving about 90 odds dynamic at the tool with a 3/4 line from the tank to the regulator and then 3/8 or 1/2 to the tool depending on what i need all with High flow fittings. Powerful air tools need air and lots of it otherwise can be disappointing
Great work. At 28:14 Great tip about getting the upper control arms in the correct position by doing them one at a time. But what is someone has already been in there and messed up the position of the control arms - how can you double check if the control arms are in the correct position; how do they do it in the factory. Thanks
The tightening specs for the upper control arms are a bit unusual. You've mentioned that one should be torquing the nuts which makes sense, but the manual page at 41:23 seems to indicate that it's the *bolts* what should be torqued (Items 6 and 12 on the diagram). Am I reading this right? And thank you, Dave, for this super informative video!!
With regards to the exploded diagram at the end of the video, are you able to help and point me in the right direction. I need a exploded diagram for the n/s/r area where the aux cooler, secondary air pump and coolant lines are located. Bought a damaged rs4 b8 and am a little lost.
Technically you can set up the upper control arms like that, But you really shouldn't because the old was stretched out also you don't know if the 1's where definitely setup right when they were installed or someone could have taking them apart and not adjusted them right. So really you want to put in on the car and put it under the full load position and then tighten them up. Just saying, the proper way according to the book..lol.
There are a number of ways of doing this as stated many times in the video. Im happy these arms are not touched as stated in the video and in satisfactory condition it can tell me the ride height. As with everything you do whatever makes you happy
@@davesterl I wasn't trying to be disrespectful I was just trying to add on to what you were doing and saying, maybe it was something you didn't think of or someone else who's watching and needs to replace the same parts. It's always good to have as much info as possible. I still watch videos like this even though I know how to and have done it multiple times bc maybe someone which show something helpful that I haven't thought of. I always tell anyone who is new in the mechanical trade and or hobby to research research research as much as possible.
that's fine, as i'm sure you realise i get a lot of comments on this channel of people offering alternatives or think they know better. I cannot and do not cover every aspect in one video however i clearly state in the video the arms are normally tightened at ride height with the weight on the car but this is another method.(11:00) When you say 'maybe it was something you didn't think of', i can only deduce you missed that in the video. Again, these arms are in satisfactory condition to tell me the ride height. As you say, it is good to highlight this
@@davesterl I can imagine the bs comments that you get from so called know it alls who don't really know what they are talking about. I'm sure that it's very annoying, that's why I replied back just so you know that was definitely not my intention. Keep up the great work.
@@davesterl mine is more of a creak on my Q5 2015 but i think the problems are the same on A4 which Q5 is based on? slow turning creak/knock whilst decelerating over bumps or in corners when weight is transferred to the front. ?🤔
