The proper way to loosen that big hub bolt is to pop out the center cap from the wheel and loosen the bolt with a breaker bar BEFORE you even lift the tire off of the ground. At the end of the job, tighten the bolt snug, put the wheel back on, drop the car and then tighten fully.
Thanks alot! This helps me save alot of money I have been spending for the garage to change my rear bearings. They charged me $700 each bearing. I got the removal tool that you have. Thanks and good work!
Thank you for making this awesome video ,. Nice and clear instructions (,unlike a lot of videos on here) just what I needed 🙂......if you DO remove the whole hub assembly undo the large centre bolt before you even lift the wheel off the ground to keep the disc etc still and if you need to disconnect the speed sensor pop the bottom section of the back seat out of the car (just clips in) and disconnect the multi plug under there and carefully feed the wire out through the hole in the chassis , this is easier than trying to remove the hub end of the sensor that gets brittle and tends to break 🙂
Don't forget to mention that you should grease the thrust bolt. There's some serious friction and torque on that bolt. And I'm pretty sure the axle bolt should be replaced with a new one every time its removed as its a stretch torque spec. 190ftlbs and an additional 180 degrees ie. Torque to yield. Good video! Keep them coming!
Are you insane? Greasing threaded fasteners results in false (low) torque readings and broken bolts. Also, the bolt RELIES on the friction to keep itself "locked".
There's kits on Amazon that have great reviews that cost 1/3rd the price of the ECS Tuning kit, but to order one of those I need to know the proper inside diameter of the cup, and the proper diameter of the OEM bearing.
Hey PB - can a slide hammer be used with a bearing extractor or does it have to be the press you used? I have been trying a slide hammer but I can’t even tell if its moved
Does anyone know how to pull bearing down? I'm using the same method and probably using bigger power, but the bearing is stucked. Have tried flame bit, but I worry about ABS sensor. Do you recommend some trick or bigger power?
Make sure you’re not hung up on the little lip in the back with your puller. Other than that if you can’t get it out with a puller like this you may need to remove the upright and put it in a hydraulic press.
You shoud change the title. This does not apply to regular A4 B5 Audi but "only for quatro models". Non quatro models have two bearings, one inner, and one outer which is inside the brake disk. Totaly different procedure. Ok video though, music is a little rough on the ears but thanks anyways.
Shoot you know what that's a good question I don't remember. I had to use like a 1-5/8" open end wrench or something like that, but I honestly don't recall.
You’re not missing anything, you can definitely do it that way too, but if it’s as tight as the bolts I’ve come across you’re just going to end up rolling the car or spinning the wheel. So you end up either needing a helper to stomp on the brakes anyway and hope you don’t snap your tool, or use heat (like I did). Little bit of heat and it spun right out, didn’t even need to hold the hub.
@@PBGarage "...you’re just going to end up rolling the car or spinning the wheel." OMG! Ever heard of a parking brake, or putting the car in gear or in park?
Been looking at this Schwaben kit, although I run an A6 c5 quattro, not an A4. Do you think the kit will work on mine? I've emailed ECS but no reply. I know the suspension at the rear is different from b5 to c5 but i can't see the bearing or other hardware being different???? Anybody?
@@PBGarage I've already ordered something similar, maybe that will do it. The bearings on the a4 and A6 quattros are identical in size, and being able to remove and replace the hubs without a press appeals to me, might just order it.....
Anyone know the size of the Axel hex bolt, shown at the beginning of the video. I think maybe it’s 17mm. I know it’s bigger than 13mm because the largest hex I have is 13mm and it’s too small.
Hey PB, I am a bit confused. I thought the bearing is pressed into the brake disc for the old B5's? Is this different here because of the year of your car?
It could be. I’m not sure if the arrangement is different on older B5s. Mine is a facelift car, 99.5, I thought all the quattros were similar though. Maybe the FWD cars have the different setup?
I have been getting cheap Centric bearings from Rockauto. When you’re pressing the hub back in don’t force it, as soon as it bottoms out quit. It’s easy to overtighten it and the balls will actually dent the races and over time get super crunchy.
