Drivers door has stared doing exactly the same thing! If you need anything explaining/covering in more detail let me know and i'll make a follow up video for the drivers side!
hi, nice video, i have this problem too, but i cant open right front door even from inside, once in a while it works but most of the time i cant open it at all, is it the same problem as there? will changing the actuaor fix it?
Man this helped so much. I wish your video also covered how to separate the two sections which actually gave me a heard time but nonetheless excellent video. I was about to buy a new actuator and then saw your video. Thank you
Thank you for doing this, just used your guide to refurbish my Audi A3 8P rear door, much better than buying inferior replacement, whilst not the same lock as yours, it’s very similar👍
Thanks a lot, was very helpful. Instead of disassemble the motor, I was using an electronic cleaning spray 4-5 times. The white cover of the motor was deep dark before I was using the spray and afterwards it was light. I have also used light air pressure to get it faster dry inside. I was also waiting an hour to be more save, that it has been dry. Sure your way might get out more, but it is now working like a charm. So I hope it will last a while. Disassembling the ‘mechanicals’ from the ‘electronics’ has been the toughest part, but the result was worth it.
Audi TTS MK2 8J 2008 Thank you buddy!! I found that the larger left hand motor had a broken connector. I prised out the motor and one connector stayed on its circuitry and the other stuck to the motor. I took the connector out of the motor and soldered it back to the circuitry, it slots into its plastic slits just like the other side does. Then solder its wire arm to the circuitry. Once the connectors are soldered to circuitry and straight, the motor should fit back onto it's connectors. Be careful not to bend or force as they should align up and click into place. I hope this helps as this did the trick for me. Thanks to the video from sootpig!! You gave me the confidence to delve deeper!! Thank you so much!!
Thank you!! I just performed this repair on my 2010 S4 rear left door latch. Not exactly the same symptoms... mine wouldn’t lock at all, but the fix you provided worked perfectly! Saved me 200 USD. Really appreciate you posting this!
Same problem on my 2008 a5 has been doing this on and off on passenger side for ages and now the driver's door is doing it the colder weather seems to make it worse.Great video thanks for posting.
Absolutely amazing video and helped me find and fix the issue. Thank you. Took motor out, cleaned the commutator, put all back together and voila - it works! Car is Audi A5 3.0 quattro 2 door year 2008. Thank you again.
Brill video. This guy I guess is an electrical engineer. fixed my actuator but just sprayed motors with WD40 and worked ok. Splitting mechanical and electrical parts was a bit of a nightmare though due to locating springs etc. Ended up using some dental floss to pull one side of spring into locator when closing. Worth considering just changing unit for about £40 off e bay but I guess you’ll make your own mind up if you end up with a box of bits. Thanks for the video !!!!
Thank you for posting this! Three of my four doors were doing the exact same thing. To have all the latches replaces would be a fortune. Was able to fix them all in a weekend for free. 😊👍
Spot on advice mate. I had three doors that wouldn’t unlock with the remote. Just took all three apart and cleaned the motors out. They’re all working perfectly now. Thanks.
Thank you so much. After ordering a lock for my A3 (which turned out not to match, I have 8 pin, whereas 9 pin seems to be specced for my car). Anyway, this video, with extraordinary detail and great video work encouraged me to take the thing apart. I treated both motors in the lock. Rather tricky getting things back together, especially as the yellow pieces separated as did the spring in between. But thanks to your detailed videography I could just about see where things were supposed to go. tested fine, and now back in the car working well. My driver's door is the same, so might give that a go if I can convince myself that it wasn't a fluke getting it back together undamaged. I checked this morning with Audi, these locks are £182 each!
I'm glad you fixed it :) i keep putting off doing the drivers door but once the weather's nice i need to do mine too. Seems like a very common problem, and not hard to fix!
Thanx man!!! I finally managed to fix my door lock on Audi A6 C6 Allroad 2007. Everything was exactly, like in this video. Works perfectly now. Great thanx from Czech Republic!! You saved me a lot of money. Other locks are coming soon. Sometimes happen also the same thing.
About to separate the electrical from the mechanical component - does not look easy! Thank you for the extremely detailed video. My lock is doing exactly what you've outlined in the first part of the vid so I'm hoping for success. Here goes… … Success. Thanks again!
Thank you for this great video that actually gets to the very bottom of the issue! It would be great next time to include the steps that show how to take it apart and put everything back although much of it is common sense. And always fix it in the early stages, I've ignored it and I've ended up with the door not opening from either inside or outside. Painful!
Thank you sootpig! Mine was doing the exact same on the driver side - sorted with the aid of this video which proved absolutely invaluable! Only issue on mine was that between the white and yellow clips, the yellow one separated from the spring rather than the lever it is attached to (causing the spring to come out). Trick was to put the spring back and wind it once using the yellow clip before before snapping it back on again. The other thing I found that made it easier was to remove the lock cylinder first. Just pop of the plastic cover (above the latch's top bolt) and then turn out the torx bolt (note it does not come out all the way). Then slide out the entire barrel. That way you can just attach the latch and slide the barrel back in afterwards instead of trying to line it up with each other inside the door.
Followed your lead on a problem on my passenger door where neither the interior or exterior latch would release the door. Cleaned both motors, now working perfectly. Bit fiddly getting the electric portion back on the mechanical lock but with a bit of care it went back together ok. Thanks for the video.
Thanks, fantastically helpful video. Exact process fixed mine yesterday. Wouldn't have even thought of stripping the motor without your guidance. (Tip: dont activate the locking mechanism with the motors exposed, without the limit switches to stop them they chuck all the gears and the little spring out! All back together now though.
Thank you for this video. Just managed to apply your instructions to a 2013 A4 rear right door. Sure enough the motor was black with carbon. One tip though is that it’s possible to remove the motor without actually completely separating the black metal section from the plastic gear housing. If you remove all Philips and T8 screws you can see, and one that lies between the metal and the gear housing the various components can be loosely opened up and are flexible enough to pop the motor out without disconnecting gears from levers.
Thanks a lot man. Instead of cleaning motors I bought em cheap on eBay for $5 a piece from China and it works perfect. Finally can unlock my car with remote control. Just have to be careful with removing those arms. And I didn’t unscrew the lock from outside, I was able with both my hands to guide it inside that opening.
Great video. My A4 has the same problem on the drivers door. I was going to take a look at it. This vid is such a help, thank you. I’ll let you know how it goes.
Excellent video and instruction. Found it after I removed screws between actuator asm and mechanicals. I was afraid to pry the plastic links until I saw your explanation. 2010 Q5 front pass door. Thank you very much.
Porsche Cayenne is also having similar unit. I had same problem with rear left and had fix. Most difficult was to separate Electronic and Mechanical part as u mentioned. Also it was showing "0843 Central Locking Closing Unit, Implausible Signal" before repair. Great work 👍👍
Yes, I just replaced the 2014 Cayenne rear left door lock. What a project it was! I orderd the wrong part 8K0839015C (6 poles) instead of 8K0839015 (8 poles). Of course I wanted to save work and did not checked before the order. Tried to check electronically wether it is possible to rewire the 6 pins but I found electically the C model has different charasteristic therefore I decided to build one unit from the two: tried to use the electronic from the old unit and replaced the complete mechanical unit and electric motors from the C (new) module. Diassembly of the unit: the videos on the net never showed how should it be done. Read it when the unit is in front of you, otherwise it is just a mess. After removing the 4 screws it is possible to move the electronic and the mechanical part apart from each other. Take photos from the are covered by the grey plastic from different angles. Move just a litte apart the parts and examine the two plastic levers connected to two plastic axles. One end of the levers connected to the mechanical part the other end to the electronic part (two axles, one short one long). You can see the levers started to bend. Use a screwdriver to help remove the levers from the axles. It is not easy. Pull the main parts a bit and push the levers a bit to release the tension on the lever. The aim is not to broke the lever. I was not able to remove the lever on the longer axle from the old unit because of the axle part was really stucked into the lever"s hole. The stucked axle fell apart after pulling the units apart but it was not a problem, the axle part and the spring can be placed back without difficulty. But first remove the axle part from the mechanical part. I had to trimmed the axle part to be able to pull out from the lever's hole. After the separation ot the two units I opened the electronics part of both units. Swapped the motors from the old to the new units and closed the old electronic unit. Then assembled the C unit mechanical part with the old unit electric part. The reason was the old unit's mechanical part was really weared out and I found the C unit mechanical part more robust than the old unit's. Push the two part together slowly and position the two levers's hole to the two axes. It is not easy but doable. Flex the plastic arm with spring above the two levers the most upside position to have enogh room for the adjustments for the levers. When outer lever hole is in line with the long axle than use a screwdriver to push the lever onto the long axle. Push the main parts a bit closer to each other and position the inner lever hole to the short axle. When inline than push the lever to the short axle. When using the screwdriver hold the spring supported arm above the levers in extended position by your finger to be able to do the lever adjustment and the push to the short axle. If the axle is positioned right than push the main parts completely and secure the two parts with the 3 screws. Important! Check the mechanical and electrical operation of the lock by connected to the subframe before doing any assembly (apart from the connection of the main cable harnes between the door and the body)! Check the connection of the axles to the levers. The inner lever sitting on a short axle and it is easy to slip off from that axle. When it is slipping off tha the door can be opened always independently from the status of the lock. Use the NEW unit's grey plastic cover to completely cover the unit with the 4th screw. You will find it not possible to put into the right position because of one plastic guide pin is too fat. Trim this pin with a knife and it is OK. The reason of this cover swap: the new unit cover has more room for the outer release arm while the old unit's plastic cover has not. Using the old unit cover on the new mechanical unit results a friction on the outer release arm and the arm will not going back into the resting position. Apart from that mechanically the old and the C unit is the same. I hope this help some poor souls out there facing with the same problem. Good luck!
If you still have problems after this very good fix, you can find the motors on AliExpress/eBay, just search 12v auto lock DC motor, I have a similar issue and will order the motors first just to be safe when I fix the lock.
Great video mate. Watch the video done what you said. And now it’s working fine. What is a little bit tricky only took about half an hour. Never done anything like this before. Great video
Excellent video, many thanks. I had the same symptoms on my mk2 TT passenger door - the lock is identical & your video helped me get it sorted today . Many thanks :)
Thanks man! Done the same to the back door of 2010 S4. So far so good. The washers on my motor seemed to be in a different order though, with the smallest closest to the windings.
Thanks, very helpful. I've got the same problem, with the same module, on the same car. Not sure I trust myself to do what you've done without breaking something, but I might give it a go before winter arrives.
Great to get a disection of a common fault that seems is built in to design .... it amazes me the Heath Robinson approach to many plastic mechanical parts in a chain and electrical components on the edge of purpose the vag group engineer into thier cars ! anyway you have saved me time hoping to come to the same conclusion and/or ££££ in parts muchos grassyarse!
Awesome ! thanks very much, had to do this on both rear doors on my A8, needed to remove the window frame unfortunately, but the motor referb was the same. It took me back to my apprentice days when fixing things rather than replacing them was seen to be a good thing :-) Thanks again !!
Just started to have the exact same problem. Left side drivers door. Car is LHD. I am going to do what you showed me on the video! Would rather fix the problem than pay 175 euros for a new one from an Audi dealer or order the part from Autodoc app and pay 83 euros. You don't know if the cheaper version is from China and not as good a quality. Hope I can fix mine like you have. Thanks for this as helps alot.
The video did not show how you broke the mechanical side to the electronic side! There are three hidden screw on the electronic side. Putting it back is tricky as well.
The motor will actually complete numerous complete revolutions. However the fixed gearing means the motor will always return to, and start from, the same position every operation. This is also the moment of peak current draw so that part of the commutator is going to get hammered compared to the rest of the motor
Couldn't open one door from inside, read manual, watched your vid, read Audi manual. Walked to my car and pushed the "close" button on my key 2 Times in row. Voilá it works again. I think it won't last long :D.
Thanks just done mine this video was a life saver . Unfortunately when i took mine apart one of the small round spring's shot out which made things worse.
Thank you for your informed video and has been a great help and have repaired the actual actuator and works great. However when I split the actuator away from the locking mechanism there was quite a bit of resistance parting the two modules. Finally was able to part but the spring on your yellow actuator arm sprung off and the top portion of the yellow actuator arm remained with the locking mechanism? The problem I have is that I cannot workout how the spring locates between the two portions of the actuator arm. Have you any still images of how this spring is relocated correctly holding the two parts of the yellow actuator arm ready to attach the actuator module to the locking mechanism. many thanks, Regards, Paul
7:40 - exactly! This is very important, ensure there is no graphite stucked between commutator contacts - it will cause a short. I had this exact problem (and missed it the first time I cleaned the commutator): although motor still worked, current increased to about 7amps peak (from, I think, 1amp nominal) and the door module started throwing various errors. In this case you can often hear a buzzing sound, because the driver (door module) is turning the motor on, then off (due to too high current) and then back on... and off... and on again... about 13 times in a row, in something like 200ms - so you get very short buzzing sound of about 60Hz.
Awesome video thank you , 3 of my doors have the same issue , both front and passenger rear , will try this hopefully sorts the issue. Is it a different process for the drivers door ?
I need some help. My old actuator was locking the door only with the key and I replaced it with a new one, but still central locking is not working and I couldn't lock the car with the key, so I put back the old actuator, but now I can't lock it even with the key. Do I need to do some coding after the new actuator replacement? The garages are opening on Tuesday so I'm looking for help now. My car is Audi A5 B8.
Thanks for the video, i tried this but no luck for me, Quick question watts the yellow switch for? the one you can move sign a flat screw driver?. I think that my problem is with the handle latch. Because electrically and mechanically i can see it is working. If i close the lock and unlock the car with the fob I am able to open the door when i move the inside and outside mechanisms. I looked inside my car and i can see a bit of rust in the outside cable .
Hi, i own an 2002 Audi A4 B6. I have a problem with the cortesy lights at the doors. Sometimes they switched on and sometimes they not. How can i fix them?
Wow, thank you for this video! I watched it over and over while diagnosing mine. Originally the passenger door wasn't unlocking from the outside. I pulled it apart and the motor inside was starting to get sooty. I cleaned it up and reinstalled. The door isn't locking now. Not sure if I did something wrong reinstalling, or if I should just buy another actuator. Thoughts?
Nice one mate! Are both motors the same? Already replaced 2 door locks on my A6 few years ago...... Still have the old "Broken" ones. Maybe I could use the working motors if another lock dies. 😂😂
