Door lock actuator replacement A4 B8 | How to DIY Audi VW 

Thanks buddy, I managed to change my rear actuator. I damaged a couple of door clicks but the screws keep the panel on all good. Getting the cables on was a little tricky but I did it. Thanks for your video it helped.

One of the best detailed door lock videos I have seen keep up the good work 5*

Thank you for this video. I know this is old but the same thing happened to my door. This saved me from having to go to the body shop.

You are the best ! THANK YOU !

Thanks for the video! Suggestion…..one of the important steps is the disconnecting and reconnecting of the cable the the lock module, (twisting left or right, pulling or pushing, etc…) would of been nice to show a closer and slower look at those steps, instead of fast forwarding… Thank you for the parts dealer, I made a note of them!

Thanks a million! Your video saved me a pile of money! Well done 😊

Just completed this job with the help of the video - thanks. HOWEVER, I would add two points. The first is that you need to make sure you order the correct actuator. For some reason they come in a 7 pin and a 9 pin configuration (drivers side door - not sure if passenger different), and god help you if you need a 7 pin like I did. The 9 pin is available everywhere for £25 upwards, and this is what I ordered before stripping the door down. Having got it all in pieces and with a sunny day to sit and do the work, I discovered that my A4 uses a 7 pin connection to the actuator. These do not exist outside of a £220 visit to an Audi dealer. I ended up scouring eBay and came up with one for £40 from a breakers yard, but otherwise there was nothing. The second thing is that if you are doing the drivers side lock then you must remove the key lock as well - this presumably isn't a problem on the passenger side as per the video due to there not being a manual lock and key system there. Removing it is simply a case of loosening a retaining bolt in the side of the door, but getting the thing back in was an utter utter misery of a job that took me two hours of swearing and cursing. In essence there is a plastic cover that you have to seat within the door, and if you get it at the wrong angle then the door lock system won't sit back inside again. Add to this that the lock barrel is in two parts with a plate in the middle and every time you can't seat it and need to pull it out then the back half of the barrel drops down inside the door panel and you've got to take the actuator out and start all over again. For anyone happening across this video please bear this in mind as the procedure for the drivers side is a lot more complex / involved. I'm no mechanic so still definitely a DIY job, but prepare to be frustrated.

I see that fortunately there have been some design improvements in how that actuator assembly is accessed. (Hello from 2004 MK4 Jetta failed actuator hell).

If you just remove the grey cover on your old actuator and spray the slide with wd40 it would work again,they just dry out of grease,they rarely ever brake,just need greasing back up,that's the cheapest way

Awesome brother

The locks normally do not function as one of the motors inside (the larger one) has carbon deposits on the commutator, therefore making contact between the various poles. Search youtube for "Audi B8 A4 Door Lock Repair". Assembling the lock back may be a bit tricky, but doable.

With VW it’s always either the module or the cabling being smashed over time where the door connects to the unibody. These modules are notorious for having cold solder joints from way back in the 90s. Their design appears to be not changed dramatically over the years and it is kind of sad if this is the problem here and these problems still exist today, some 20+ years later. Usually the unit opens relatively easy and the soldering can be fixed in couple of minutes. Usually on older cars it is good to have them checked every once in a while because once it is double locked from outside and the connection becomes bad, it is close to impossible to open the door without damaging something, especially with the rears. It is worth opening the unit, even for the sakes of a video. Cold solder joints are easily spottable with a magnifier too. Cheers.

Hi. Have an issue on 2013 A3 Sline 5 door. Car locks and chirps. When driving driver door constantly locks/unlocks? Red light on lock panel doesn’t light up. Have fitted new door card to eliminate wiring and switches. Do you think it could still be the lock actuator? Thanks.

Hi! Sooo... Just a quick question: are you still thinking about the ceratec testing? 😊

I have the same issue except my passenger door locked and won't open again. Any suggestions on how I open it to replace the actuator?

Cambie el actuator pero ahora no hace ruido cuando le pongo alarma, Que sera?

I have problem on front door pasenger on VW Passat B8 2016,i need to chenge unlock and new price 280€ and servis 40€.

Some also open up the actuator and clean up the little motor contacts (or replace it for $3). No need to buy a new actuator.

Is the avant the same as the 4 dr sedan? I have the 2010 A4 2.0 Premium( what title says)

How much was the new lock module? Thank you!

FCP euro… How are you dealing with bring in parts into Canada? I’ve been hit with brokerage and duty fees from ordering from ECS; the fees were nearly the same as the parts cost! Let me know how you are getting around this, if you don’t mind sharing.

Totally skipped the part with the lock cylinder