Thank you for sharing this video. Regarding my 2013 Audi S4 B8.5, once the T-20 torx screw that connects the fuel door actuator to the fuel door assembly had been removed, the task of pulling the assembly to the left and towards me was a bit of a challenge. Having a set of sturdy plastic pry tools, especially one similar to cat's paw pry bar with handle, allowed me better access to the space between the back of the left of the assembly without touching the rubber lining of the fuel tank opening or damaging the plastic assembly. Once the pry tool was pulled to pop out the assembly from behind the left side, the next steps were to follow the reverse order of your work. Disconnecting/Reconnecting the electrical clip, reusing the red plastic manual pull release, reinstalling the new actuator using its top/bottom sliver clips, then pushing in the right side first of the fuel door assembly, the actuator remained in place while everything snapped back into its original spot. Watching your trial and errors helped me to avoid a few errors and saved me an easy $50 minimum at an Audi indie shop. Kudos!
I just want to say a huge thanks for your video. I needed to remove the actuator from my B8 RS4 avant, and your video was very helpful (especially the pulling of the unit towards the back of the car to remove it). Was able to complete this in under 2 mins after watching this.
Thanks for sharing the video man. I managed to replace new actuator. But, not able put down emergency cable. It stuck in the middle of the trunk. It was challenging to open the assembly though.
Thanks for the video. I just did this on my wifes car. Her's had been failing to work intermittently for awhile and she had even broken off the red cable on the original. I got it done in about 10 mins thanks to you showing what worked (and didn't). She reached towards the front from where the red cable used to be and I was able to hand her the new cable so all is good. Who knows how long this latch will last but at $25 and about 10 minutes to swap, I'll take that risk.
Not joking, but was very easy to remove with crowbar from the middle (using fuel tank hole as support) with moderate force. Popped right off, no screwdriver marks or any bending. These screwdriver holes did not help me, only those scratches would have looked bad later. Ordered new part with code "16SKV405" ~18eur from local dealer. Works great again. Audi A4 2012.
Pulling towards the back didn’t work for me. It didn’t even budge. But this method, but with a screwdriver instead to use as a lever, worked great for me.
Hey Buddy thx for this Video! I did it same way and it worked perfect! T-20 Screw out and then slightly pull and taddaaaa... Awesome! And fixed in under 5min 👊🏻😎
Lucky you that u can just pulled it out. It must have been removed before. People puncture hole to get a flat screwdriver to unclip them. Wish u did show close up of the clip so that we know how deep and what angle to unclip. Or maybe it is easier to remove the wheel, fender lining, and reach in from under.
Loved the video, when you struggled with putting the new actuator back I kept saying “PUT THE ACTUATOR FIRST” like I was watching you do it in real life😂😂😂 Love how you chose to include your learning experience. Any further issues with the actual fuel door after replacement?
For some reason the frame that holds the door/ what goes on top of the actuator will not come out but everything I have is exactly the same. Even the replacement door frame/ actuator
Nothing. In an emergency you can pull the interior trunk panels to gain access to the cable. The cable wasn't attached by the factory, so I didn't bother with it.
Read the comments…Im surprised he didnt lose the camera in the gas tank. Stop. Just. Stop. You could have broken every simple part you were disassembling/reassembling Yaaay. U won a trip to Hawaii. Yaaaaay. Yaaaay
