Hey Karl, a follow up as I installed it this weekend. Piece of cake install, yes there are a lot of screws :). AXC-Sim is providing 4 bumper - dead zone choices now. I picked the second most aggressive (less dead zone). I chose wisely :). I also made some spring swaps by using the old brake spring in the clutch and the clutch spring moved to the throttle. Everything feels great, much more confident going deeper into the corners as the pressure is consistent and smooth. I have the Playseat Challenge and not seeing flex. I have only about few hours with the mod, but highly recommend!
Nice review. Would you say the gt omega apex with seat add on can handle this? You mention the pedal press weight is similar to stock, really? So ok with socks? P.s. you were right and im loving my rs9 seat now.
Cheap fix: Take your dishwashing sponge, clean and dry. Cut a pice the size of the full spring and put it on top of the hard black rubber, inside the spring. Works like a charm and you can still use 80% of your sponge to wash your dishes. Karl if you are reading this, it would be great if you made a video out of it. Great content! PD: Remove the hard part of the sponge piece you cut out.
Got mine this morning. Installing was a doddle, thanks Karl. Hint: swap the throttle spring for the tougher clutch spring while you’re at it anyway. Original brake spring goes to clutch. Done that, and I’m over the moon. I missed my Citroën brakes more than I knew. No trouble reaching 100% btw. Second to smallest bumper, ps4, wheelstand on woven wool carpet
Cant believe how much detail you do in your video and how professional they are, keep up the good work your my number 1 youtuber when I'm looking at sim racing purchases to check if I'm not wasting my money 👍
Just a few comments. The smaller or shorter buffer gives a larger "deadzone", not smaller, as their is a larger gap between the buffer and the top of the pedal. You may want to grease the components where they will slide against the plastic cylinder, the stock pedals I believe are greased inside the pedal "pistons" from factory. I recommend reallocating the springs. Personally, I put the stock brake spring for the clutch pedal and the stock clutch spring in the accelerator, stiffens them up nicely. The accelerator does have a longer stock spring than the other two pedals but I've noticed no issues. I use my TrueBrake in a Playseat Challenge and it only occasionally starts to lift very slightly under max braking. It's not an issue at all. I'm also a very light chap so this would probably be less of a concern for anyone of average weight or more.
Yeah I realised the same thing whilst laying in bed last night! lol Pinned comment added! :) The teflon tape is the lubricant mate, thats the reason it's been added recently, the springs and buffer do not touch the sides. I think it's your lightness that prevents the lifting, you have much less weight to shift backwards against the seat upright which is what lifts the seat up, for me and others this is a daily problem unless you calibrate it out.. which works fine but pointless with this mod of course.
Play seat challenge with this mod and can confirm a little bit of the middle of the seat raising up. But I wouldn’t revert back to the old rubber block. It also sucks I can’t see the amazing design of the brake mod. Very nice mod if anyone is planning on staying with the g920, I am moving to the csl dd with the v3 pedals. But I have enjoyed the g920. Thanks for the video
Not sure if anyone’s mentioned yet, but you really need to remove the black screws as well. Work on the pedals as you’ve done here, and then drop them into the top housing and they all align with the base just fine. This lets you put the cables back in the tiny retaining grooves. Then screw the base plate back on. If you don’t do it this way, there is a high possibility that you can trap and damage the cables. I’d seen a few videos of people warning about this and still took mine apart like you have. I put it all carefully back together, thinking there was loads of clearance for the cables, only to find on closer inspection that they are only clear when they sit in the grooves on the top. I was lucky, I spotted that the base was sitting 1/2mm out when tightening the screws. It had still damaged the insulation. Others have cut right through them. I was annoyed as product design is my area of expertise and still didn’t spot the problem 😂
I always manage to get mine in the retaining grooves anyway mate, there isn't much clearance but they pop in and stay in if you're careful. Good tip though for sure! :)
Looks and sounds like this is just what I'm looking for! Definitely going to be picking one of these up in the next couple of weeks. Should be a nice addition, along with the magnetic shifter paddles.
So I've been using this for a few weeks. My impressions are actually quite negative compared to the stock spring and rubber setup. It does well to sense the pressure, no problem with that. The problem that I have is that there is quite a big difference between the linear spring and the exponential pressure. So it's really hard to get it exactly where you want around that mark (which is about 20/30% brake for me). It's great for easing of the brakes into that trail braking range... but it's not great for knowing exactly how much you're braking. I definitely had a net loss in consistency and confidence in my braking. I think I'm going to order some GTeye springs instead. I need LINEAR brake pressure.
Fitted this and a stiffer throttle spring today! My god the difference from stock is unreal. 3 seconds a lap off my PB in a slower car round the Nordschleife on the first attempt. Yours was one of the reviews I based the purchase off so thanks. Keep up the good work.
There’s a cable mod for the pedals which clears the curve and makes it 10bit instead of 8bit. I feel the cable and this mod would be a perfect combo. The cable is called leo bodnar cable for g25/g27/g29/g920
For everyone in the EU you can also get the 3dRap 12bit adapter without having to pay import tariffs. It works really great, and 12 bit is a dream. That’s what I did. True Brake+Adapter made me much faster and for me the pedals are so good that I won’t upgrade to fanatecs or similar. I also 3D printed a degressive clutch mechanism, and calibrated the bite point in software. This made my old trusty logitech pedals so good that I will upgrade pretty much everything else on my rig before I’ll upgrade them.
@@stub4488 no can't be done with the ps4 at least not easily. If you're on console you have to stick with the weird curve programed inside the wheelbase.
Good review. After installing the TrueBrake in my Logitech G25 pedals, I'm very happy. It's a massive improvement over the standard pedal. I have my setup in a GT Omega Apex wheelbase and find it steady enough to apply enough pressure to use the pedal to it's maximum braking force without tipping my folding Ikea chair backwards. That said, you definitely want to ensure you've a good setup because the force is considerable to move the pedal to its 100% level.
I was disappointed with the travel distance before the True Brake mod actually started to show any signal on my G920. I tried the largest buffer they offered with the kit but the travel distance of the dead zone was annoying and difficult to be accurate with. I want to feel the brake travel range engage from the moment I start to press on it or release it. I took it out and put the stock brake spring and rubber piece back in. However, when I did this I had a large dead zone that was not there before the mod. Turns out if you separate the two gears that turn the potentiometer it can get out of whack. There is spring tension on it and you have to move the gear connected to the potentiometer one tooth forward before securing the brake pedal gear back into the housing. After I did that the stock brake worked as it originally did and engaged as soon as there was pressure on it. With that said, I recommend not taking out the pin the connects to the bottom of the pedal as some other videos have suggested. That will keep your brake gears at the factory setup.
It's easy to adjust if you feel it's too stiff. Just get a lower stiffness spring, then adjust the brake deadzone to 0% minimum and 70% maximum in the game settings, and the true brake mod will work like a charm.
It's not about travel... Brakes are never about travel but pounds of pressure. Our brains can't keep up with "how much we traveled" with our foot but our brains significantly keep up with how much force and pressure it took to slow down a certain rate. And as such you no longer start feeling the travel but just the pressure. The more you use your force the more you will slow down and thus brain will via muscle memory map it out and you will be able to gauge how much you will need to brake without thinking "did I travel 50 or 60% or did I overshoot to 90%?" but rather just "yeah this bitch requires massive amount of force, yep remember that one!".
I put the rubber buffer from my g 29 brake pedal back in my two spring combination 65 lb compression spring brake pedal mod bringing the braking force needed for full braking power reading ( on screen in game ) to just under 80 lbs. Although it is still measured by pedal; position and not by amount of pressure as with a load cell , it still works good for muscle memory of brake force needed when braking much better than the stock version pedal does which feels more toy like to me .
Just a comment on opening the pedals - it's actually better to do it flipped. Get a box, put the pedals on it so that the pedal faces are inside the box and the pedal casing is resting on the sides. Unscrew all the bolts and you will be able to open up the cover on the bottom. Reason for this - the top casing actually has small cutouts for wires, and if you remove the top piece, you won't be able to get the wires back into the cutouts. Just makes for a neater install.
Thank you for the review! I find it hard to modulate the brake pedal in competitive races because there's too much movement so I was looking for something like this!
Ive had 1 of these for months and they are fantastic feels way more progresive could never go back. how ever mine didnt come with the metal top cap think thats a new thing. thanx AXC Sim
Have to disagree with the "don't buy if you don't have a full rig" observation. I originally used this with a dining chair and G29 pedals on the floor against a wall and now on a GT Lite rig with same pedals. Had no problems using the Truebrake mod which I highly recommend. My GT Lite seat doesn't lift off the floor at 100% braking with the angled pedals setup I use but the dining chair did lift off the floor a bit occasionally. I'm 5ft 9 and about 77Kg. I like most of Karl's reviews (apart from most of them being overlong and rambling too much) but not this one.
I'm a desktop racer and Karl is 100% correct when he says that you'll feel NO benefit from this product. A mixture of seating angle and your chair creeping backwards make it near impossible to modulate your foot pressure or gain 100% braking (you can calibrate out a percentage of the brake to make this easier but doing the same thing to the original brake gives a similar result). You need a rig, and if you've got that sort of cash you may as well upgrade your wheel and pedals anyway. Rob's a fair bloke and has agreed to refund mine, but do yourself a favour and listen to the big fella he speaks the truth, thank for the vid. 👍
@@KarlGosling personally I'd say the latter (especially when you could just save the cork from your last bottle of wine). Although I don't feel like that's the popular opinion, I do feel like it's the truth. Too many reviews read 'At first I didn't like this mod, then I drove 4000 laps and my lap times improved'. The buffer configuration has also changed before you got four buffers each with a rubber stop. Now the rubber stop is at the opposite end and presses on four (different sized) solid metal buffers. This may not make a difference but to my mind when you start changing a design that works, to save money, it's never a good thing.
I removed rubber in brake pedal and replaced with an OOSHIE toy (soft squishy toy thats a little buzz lightyear) lol..perfect size ..works bloody great push pedal a bit tuen its ooshie time and the pedal feels closer to real life now .....
i had just gotten into sim racing for my twitch channel, figuring everything out now, im not sure if you play any games with your subs but i would love to play with you sometime man! youve taught me alot and i feel like maybe we can get some good content together!! love the videos man keep up the great work!!
Great vid as always mate. The best cheap mod I used was a squash ball just shoved down the back of thrustmaster t3pa pedals then adjust linearity as per your method. Worked a treat for a Fiver!! Ps DD1 has been RMA to Fanatec...firmware issue I think.
that was i looking dont know why people believe hard brake would be better, right now struggle with a loadcell mod and need alot of force to get 100% without a exponential curve feel more like press of a button
Thanks for the review. OMG it will take me ages to work out which buffer will be the best to use - takes ages to undo and put back together the pedals, so many screws!! ;)
God so many screws. Sucks when you drop the last screw through the gap under the carpet gripper, or realise you forgot to reinstall a nut on the pedals. Not that I've done either... multiple times...
Great video Karl as always. I like your reviews. I notice you do a lot of upgrade reviews for Logitech pedal sets. Ever thought of trying a Leo Bodnar cable with this true brake. I hear it adds more bits to the resolution and makes the travel linear instead of the curve at the end you were talking about. I am considering purchasing both. If you ever get a chance would like to hear your thoughts on it.
Great review as always Karl and pretty much the reason why I've bought one and waiting patiently for it. Quick question in regards to the console crowd... is there any need to recalibrate the pedal to hit full braking? Or are the in-game deadzone tweaks enough? Cheers!
Question: are you plugging the pedals into the wheel base? If so, bear in mind the Logitech g920 has a built in gamma for the brake. You should really test this using a Leo Bodnar cable too. You might want to inverse mount those pedals too. It makes a big difference when pressing hard on the brake as your ankle has a much greater lever
@@KarlGosling True, you explained about the built-in curve. Subscribed and looking forward to the next video. There are two gotcha's with plugging the pedal base in the wheel base still: 1) the builtin curve doesn't cover the full 100% input, therefore any modification can trigger different points in the curve, which is why it is a bad thing and I bypass it with a leo bodnar cable. 2) the wheel base only has 8bit resolution, while a leo-bodnar takes that to 10bit and some home-made arduino mods can take that to 12, 14 and above if necessary, which it is espcially when you have such a short range of travel. What I would have liked to see in the review is how accurate the potentiometer readings are by using something like DIView and showing if there was any flickering, especially when at the two ends of the pedal travel.
Is it necessary to get the additional bodnar cable for PC? I want to upgrade my brake but torn between just upgrading pedals instead of pedal and bodnar cable
Hi Karl. Good content. Like the clear way you explain stuff. I am a newbie rally sim driver on Xbox One looking into the Logitech G923 with shifter (Thrustmaster is too expensive for me). I am not a F1 fan so I want to get a rallycar experience (sitting more upright). Any tips on seats? Greetings from Holland.
The pot kit they sell is flawed. The washers. cannot hold the metal clip in place so it falls out all the time. Also that washer on the old pot is impossible to remove.
I just recently decided to upgrade my old Logitech pedals and put the AXC True brake in my g29 pedals but I'm still having trouble getting used to it. I wonder how long it takes to get used to?
P.S - Might be worth trying the old brake spring in the clutch and use the clutch spring in the accelerator, if you don't have any other spring upgrades.
I didn't install the metal part that goes on the other end of spring because my G29 already had the plastic stock piece there and didn't know it just popped out. It's been working just fine but I'm wondering if I should swap them out because it might crack the black housing that the spring goes into. AXC Sim should update this in there install manual because it doesn't have anything about the extra buffers that come in box nor does it say pop out white stopper. But overall I do like the mod because it shortens the travel.
You don't need fancy stuff like this. Just go get a 7/8" zinc plated linear spring about $5 from Home Depot and cut it to same length as the non-linear factory spring which is way to stiff. Home Depot part# 684-838 made by Everbilt.
I tried this and you have to cut the spring and then I grinded+torched/bent the spring to make it flat. It's basically the same as my brake pedal already if I recall, or its the same as an upgraded clutch spring. I bought a chinese gteye spring knock off progressive spring kit for $12 that I think is a better upgrade with upgraded throttle/brake/clutch and now I'm using it with the a partially cut rubber block with good success.
Great video as always Karl 👍 . Might have to give one of those a try . Just one question , noticed you using the windows game controller settings and wondered if you even bother with the Logitech G hub software ? Is it needed at all ? Thanks .
The thing i dont understand is you can, on most sims, reduce the amount of travel required for full braking so you dont need to fully depress the pedal for 100%. I do this already as my pedals are up against a wall and family members complained they would hear it when i braked hard. So would thisnbe worth it for me or would i still be rattling the walls to achieve 100%?
Karl, have a question for you. I just bought the truebrake modification and 2 of their potentiometer upgrades for my g920. In the description, it said the potentiometer mods are linear. Also, it said the truebrake potentiometer is linear. So, does that mean logitechs software will override the potentiometer and give it a curve instead of it being linear, or do the potentiometers somehow override logitechs curve in the software?
You're correct, the factory curve will still be present and it still uses the same resistance values etc... the only difference is how it feels to your foot. A linear pot is just a physically different shape to a rotary pot, it performs the same task which is why it's plug and play.
Maybe I've bought it a bit too quickly.. I use a desk setup and although my chair isn't going anywhere and my pedals are fixed to my desk.. I can't get to that last 5 or 10%. I searched for the Game controll panel, but I can't find the right menu to calibrate the G29 with the last 10% missing. I love the feeling though, The pedal feels more firm, Less wobble in the movement from 0 to 90. I feel more confident by braking harder on metal instead of the plastic bushing/system as it was originally.
i just set my brake pedal in games that max is not at the end of the pedal so i need to press the pedal from 75 to 80% for max and have no complains for my g920 pedals stock
Great vid Karl, have you seen the Leo Bodner USB cable that put the pedal set direct in to your PC and is supposed to byepass the baked in brake curve issue? I've got one of these sets on order to.
Hi question for ya. I have the Logitech 920 wheel and pedal set up. I have tried everything and I can't get my clutch to work at all. Went in and change the settings back and fourth and can't get the clutch to work. Now the gas pedal and brake work fine. Playing on a Xbox 1 . Thanks for any ideas or help. Steve
In my opinion it is just more reasonable to buy a load cell and an arduino and program your own load cell pedal. It will be cheaper than this mod and will be a true load cell and its pretty easy to do. For the price I just dont see the full benefit of going to this upgrade when you can get a load cell mod for cheaper.
I bought one of these about 3 to 4 months ago but it didn't come with the top cap that replaces the white cap nor did it have the tape on each side of the aluminim body. My guess these are a revised addition made to remedy 2 flaws in original product... One being the white plastic cap cracking under the load needed to be exerted on it and the other is to try eliminate the clicking problem when the black housing catches on the recess where the 2 sections of the aluminium body fit together. I'm going to email the seller to ask if he can ship me the aluminium cap and maybe the brown tape pieces. Wish me luck in being successful at getting him to send me them free of charge. Will be back to update you of his response
Cheers for the video Karl, great stuff. Not long had G29 that im running on my ps4 and ive started to mod it. Inverted pedals and put a magnetic collar around the wheel shaft to give the padels a stiffer more realisticfeel and "click" but now im on to the brake pedal. I wanted to do something cheap but to get a more realistic progressive feel. Have you had any experience with the Nixim spring mod? Cheers buddy.
@@KarlGosling no problem bud, cheers for the reply. Ive managed to get one cheap anyway so just went ahead and made the purchase. Alot of people say that the Nixim and the GTeye are more or less identical but the Nixim also comes with a rubber you can cut down as well as the progressive spring.Will just have to see how i get on with it.
Hey Karl, great review. I bought one of these about 2 months ago for my G920 on xbox. I was wondering is there any calibration needed for PC2? I recalibrate it in game but the value was only about 10 on the brake meter. Thanks.
@@KarlGosling nice one, it does work but I'm useless with tech. I had about 5-7mm of travel with no registered input on the brake meter. Thought maybe I'd made a mistake
Hey Chris did you ever get this mod setup for pc2 OK? I have this mod and pc2 that is my main goto Sim. I've had a headache with mod for 2 weeks now and think I've finally solved problem... Basically in the calibration on pc2 I press my brake in as far as I feel comfy with to achieve 100% braking but that value is only 40% of the calibration bar I do this because for me to press the pedal in all the way to achieve full travel stroke is near impossible and feels way too hard and unrealistic to a real brake system. I can't imaging Lewis Hamilton having to use his wheel to anchor onto to obtain enough leg power to achieve full brake pressure... Anyhow for weeks I've been having a issue where brake has been flickering on for milliseconds ranging from 10%-70% of braking all by itself... I've pulled my hair out trying to work out why it's doing this hell I even bought a new g29 as thought my 3 year old one was on its way out... Anyhow I confirmed the problem was this by in game calibration I pressed pedal as hard as I could to make sure brake calibration bar hit 100% then I tested it and problem of self braking for milliseconds at a time had gone away.. I also put some weighing scales under my pedals to get a rough estimate on how many kg it took for my unit to achieve full travel and my reading were 35kg of force. I've seen in another post on topic of spring load too high to comfy achieve 100% braking and he also had similar results in fact he reported 40kg of force to achieve 100% travel of mod... I don't know if its just a fault with a small percentage of units but I've read some people are saying it's great feel and some saying way too hard a feel.. I'm guess Rob the manufacturer does test every one he makes to see if spring and I turn the final unit falls within spec of 20kg full travel specification and if this is the case I'm hoping it just some units have slipped through net where its almost double the amount of kg needed to obtain full travel. Anyway I hope this Long detailed post comes in useful for anyone who is experiencing similar issues..
I’m torn between this one and the Ricmotech cell conversion, anyone know which is better performance, I know the Rico is more expensive but is it worth the expense? Thanks in advance.
If your looking at spending Ricmotech money you'd be better off selling your Logitech pedals for £50 and putting all the money together for some Thrustmaster T-LCM's or Fanatec CSL Elite LC in my opinion mate.
@@KarlGosling I was thinking of upgrading do you mean the whole fanatic rig including wheel? Or just pedals v3?, been enjoying the Logitech but think it’s time to upgrade I managed to get an Xbox series x because I like the console, as I am on console is it worth the move to fanatic?ahhh, pedals..found them, thanks I’ll upgrade me thinks...
I have a set of G27 pedals. I want to upgrade the braking. I have a budget of £200, would you recommend this mod or shall I invest in the Fanatec CSL Elite CL pedals?
Its not about whether someone must really like Logitech pedals to spend that much for the perfect pedal when the fact is maybe they can't afford a $ 1200.00 Fanatec setup or a $600 Fanatec pedal stand alone set which you are not likely to get for $ 200 or $250 and for that matter why would someone spend for the cost of a Fanatec pedals when for just a little more they could have a two pedal Heusinkveld pedal set instead and get the third pedal at a later date if need be . I much rather have a hydraulic brake pedal setup than a spring with a load cell or no load cell brake pedal .
Well here in the UK Fanatec V3's go for £250-£300 all day long, that's what I paid for mine! :) You can't get HE for anywhere near that over here. Prices are higher now (for everything) but that's not normal and only temporary :)
The stock G920 brake pedal setup is fine IMO, but for a slightly more progressive feel then the GTEye springs are good, I use all three as the other two pedals are a little light IMO.
Work it with xbox? 😊😅 Is it with the big Rubber, netter then the Standard Brake? Not so kuch Hard with the big Rubber? Because you use the small one? 😁
Anyone here test this on the PS4 with GT Sport where there isn't an in-game setting for calibration? I have a truebrake ordered and wonder how it'll take to GT Sport. Thanks in advance!
Had mine today, 18/08/2020, swapped it all out, spent sometime with it and hate to say, my times are slower. I have a Playseat Evolution so the strength is no issue. Put the bigger buffer in, so as soon as you press the pedal, its brakes. Its rock solid, so as Karl said, pedals need to be bolted down, very little movement at all. Sorry to say, i am putting my old pedal back in, this is really not that good, save your money.
“This May be the best brake pedal mod there exist for the g series pedal, but I haven’t used it yet” wtf... yea seems totally unbiased. Hasn’t used it, and has already declared it as the best there is.
They are now offering softer springs. I saw a reviewer use Leo Bodnar PC Cable for Logitech Pedals to get rid of the logitech progressive curve, so the input is linear all the way. However, both of those combined + shipping and customs make me consider buying old csr lc fanatec pedals and selling my g29 altogether. Decisions, decisions.
