I was apprehensive about changing the bearings in my 78 celica, y'all saved me a ton of money in labor charges doing it myself! thanks for the great vid
Great point, "support the splitter where the sides of the splitter are supported by the main blocks." I have noticed that a lot of people make the mistake of having their splitter installed where the bolts are absorbing the majority of the press' pressure, which will result in the bolts being bent or even failing.
Glad I could help. There are a lot of vehicles that use this type of setup where the bearing is pressed onto the axle shaft and held in place with a collar. The process is the same for everyone of them.
This is a great video if you have a press with a base large enough for the flange to pass through. The average guy at home as something like the Harbor Freight 20 ton press, which is strong enough in terms of force, but won't allow the axle flange to pass through to press off the bearing, though you can press it on once you do get the old one off.
This is a problem when your press won't accommodate the job. Sometimes a custom homemade jig is required to make up for the short comings of the shop tooling. If you do enough of these it might be worth while to spend the time fabricating something. You might look into a piece of square or round pipe or tubing that has an inside diameter large enough for the flange with thick enough walls to accommodate the pressure and long enough to remove the bearing. I would think 6" would be enough. There are a lot of online metal stores where you can choose the inside diameter, wall thickness and length and have it shipped to your door.
Se debe poner una bocina de hierro dulce que sea exacta al diametro externo y no reventara. Mi prensa lo sacaba con seguro y todo el ford no tiene tanta presión como un toyota 18r o 20 r,cosa fácil
Can someone tell me what seals this besides the black rubber seal in the bearing? I had mine leaking out the shaft,changed the bearing(THIS TYPE IN THIS VIDEO), and it still leaks. Is there a seal also or silicone need added or a gasket? Thank you
You see that shinny surface on the axle next to the collar? That is the seal surface. The seal is in the axle housing. If that shinny surface is damaged or grooved the seal won't seal properly. Also make sure after replacing the seal that you look for the axle vent. if this vent is plugged up the seal will leak again. Make sure the oil is not over filled. This can also cause the seal to leak. Sorry I don't have any pictures of the seal for this vehicle but I do have a video on replacing an axle seal and bearing from a differently designed rear axle.
On the bearing side closest to the axle flange there is a shoulder that the bearing stops on and the retaining bracket sits between the bearing and the flange.
You can try but it takes a lot of pressure sometimes. Remember the old bearing and retainer have been on a long time. I have always done it this way. I didn't show the gauge when I pressed the bearing off but it took between 4 and 5 tons of pressure just to remove the bearing.
@@DrivelineMaster i guess that was sort of a dumb question. Because why else would you and other drivetrain gurus do it like that. Im about to do my samurai axle bearings I never messed with pressed on bearings. Only c clip axles. So i was just doing a little research thanks for the video
This is an option if you don't have a press but you have to get them pretty hot and I prefer not to expose my new bearing or locking sleeve to that kind of heat. I also prefer not to work with the very hot parts.
Must be nice to be rich and have $$$$$ of specialty tools. Last night I put the axle is the chest freezer and heated the bearing to 250F. It slid right on with no press. Then heated the collar to 500F.
I'm sorry but nothing you are doing is correct with the press, you can bend the bar and with the chisel you can mistreat the bar, but it is not the correct procedure, it is something unprofessional, I am sorry for you, but it is the truth
Everyone is entitled to an opinion. 1) I see no other way to perform this task. You say it's wrong but don't offer another solution. 2) I know machinist, and shop technicians who have been doing it this way since the mid 1960's and have never..... ever... bent anything or has the integrity of the axle ever been compromised to breakage, failure or malfunction. This is one reason for drilling the holes first to weaken the retainer and lessen the impact on the axle. I have known some who heat up the retainer to install it but that too can compromise the retainer and the heat as it cools can transfer to the bearing. Not a good idea. As I said, you have the right to an opinion but you offer no other way to perform this task. On the other hand I have been doing this for over 40 years with a lot of history and experience. If by chance you are a metallurgist there is theory of changing the structure of the metal and then there is real world practicality. These are not space crafts.
