Axle Shaft Replacement- '09 Crown Vic 

Hope it helps, thanks for watching!

Same I have a 2010 cvpi and my rear passenger seal blew out and t my axle has alot of play

Check Watts Link. If not that, try control arms, or sway bar.

good video I have the answer to your problems my car has the same problem these days I let you know I'm still repairing it greetings

Any idea why? What brand axle?

I used a “rear axle bearing puller”. On oriellys website it’s under part number # 7494A

I got into a wreck at highway speeds, I struck a pole right on the wheel. Bent the wheel, destroyed my shock, control arm, and watts link. After I replaced those parts, there was a rubbing sound, so I put the car in drive with the wheel off and the brake caliper was the culprit. I asked around and was told it was the axle. After I took it out, sure enough the axle was just slightly bent.

@@qwertyratchet cool I'm getting mine done and I hope that's it. I had my whole rear end replaced and I guess the mechanic didn't check everything when he put the new rear end on.

If I remember correctly from a ChrisFix video, the way to do it is in pairs. Front and back at the same time then turn the gears. I hope this helps.

Alright thanks man I'll try it

I got the Axle, bearing, and seal from orielly’s, part number AXK201. I also borrowed a bearing puller, part number 67035, and slide hammer kit, part number 67031.

I meant to record it, but forgot to. It’s basically opposite of removal. After you put the new bearings and shaft in place, push on the shaft inward to expose the c-clip channel, and slide it in. Then, pull the shaft back out as far is it can go with the clip in. Hope this helps.

The Axle, bearing, and seal came as a kit for about $160, and I used a bearing race and seal kit from harbor freight for about $40. Also a bottle of Diff fluid for $10. The slide hammer kit was a free rental kit. Altogether about $210. Hope this helps.

there was a rubbing sound when driving, so l put the car in drive with the wheel off and the brake caliper was the culprit. It was rubbing the rotor

@@qwertyratchetI had the same thing happen then also realized I could grab the axle and shake it around while I was in there

Yes. This process will be the same on any panther car from 2003-2011.

@@wjye thank you

Also , recently I was going maybe 90 on the highway and the tire with the sag issue popped off , had to tow it back , seem to have stripped the studs , not sure if that was due to to much weight or pressure on that rim ?

Yes, whole job was done with the S-spring in. I forgot to film putting the bearing and seal in, and yes, I used the ‘Maddox brand Bearing Race and Seal Driver Set’ from Harbor Freight. I believe it was about $15-$25. Thanks for commenting, feel free to ask any questions

@@qwertyratchet Thanks brother. Yea I have to pull the axle out of drivers side tomorrow, leaking fluid all over wheel and getting some noise now. Bought new axle, bearing, seal and fluid already because I’m probably going to need a new axle hopefully not but it’s been like this for a couple days now so rather have it and return it if I do use it then not have it readyand it’s my only car currently so figured I try to get prepared before I start. Got the puller set and slide hammer already going to get bearing driver from harbor freight in the AM Great video brother, stay safe

@@mikeeyg1977 yo if you haven’t done the job I highly recommend getting a new ABS sensor. Just did this job today and the ABS sensor prevents you from pushing in the drivers side axle enough to get the C Clip out. Mine was so rusted in place only way to get it out was prying it out which broke it.

@@wjye Thank you Sir. I did mine already. I replaced the axle and the abs ring. I was able to do it with the S spring in place. Getting the C clip of the old axle was pretty easy. Getting the new abs ring on the new axle was the hardest part. I thought it would have came installed already but it didn’t. Next time I’ll take two rear rotors place one on the ground and stand the new up on it, set abs ring on then take the 2nd rotor and slide over and down the new axle and try to press it using the lugs and lug nuts and the two rotors as a press. Getting the c clip back on the below rotor was a little tricky, axle didn’t seem to want to push in far enough to get in on. It seem like it was a a couple mm off but I got it on. I had just replaced the clutch packs in the differential about a year before but before that I never opened a differential. Glad you got it done brother I should of just replaced both axle while I was there. I forgot how expensive gear oil was. 20 bucks each. Yikes

@@mikeeyg1977 I sadly have an open diff so no S Spring. I got lucky with gear oil, Walmart had Valvoline Synthetic in the bags for $12 a pouch!

Yes

No, i had a scraping noise after I got I to my accident. Did some diagnosing and it was the axle scraping the brake rotor

Hi @connectfour , thanks for the question. I don’t have much idea on brands, but generally OEM or anything close to it. The brand I used in this video is the Power Torque Rear Axle Kit from O’reilly auto parts.

Dude buy the dana ones for $60 off rock auto NO DORMAN

Took me for ever to find this info out

@@qwertyratchet thank you guys a ton saved me some time/money

@@4.6slidez dana is cheap but comes with nothing but the axle shaft, i also need new bearings bc mine have unfortunately become incinerated

Autozone

@@qwertyratchet brand?

@@MrWontstopthefunk don’t remember the brand, but I got the axle, bearing, and seal from O’Reillys, part number AXK201. I also borrowed a bearing puller, part number 67035, and slide hammer kit, part number 67031

@@qwertyratchet how is it holding up so far?

@@MrWontstopthefunk good, still the same axle in, still driving fine ✅