For anyone having trouble with the clip use small pry bar or big flat head pry axle in with driver on groove were clip is should pull in more some force required
How much you going with the oil and when you change it sound coming or now i have 2012 i change the oil in 2017 and now it going about 110 km i change it or now
I got into a wreck at highway speeds, I struck a pole right on the wheel. Bent the wheel, destroyed my shock, control arm, and watts link. After I replaced those parts, there was a rubbing sound, so I put the car in drive with the wheel off and the brake caliper was the culprit. I asked around and was told it was the axle. After I took it out, sure enough the axle was just slightly bent.
@@qwertyratchet cool I'm getting mine done and I hope that's it. I had my whole rear end replaced and I guess the mechanic didn't check everything when he put the new rear end on.
I got the Axle, bearing, and seal from orielly’s, part number AXK201. I also borrowed a bearing puller, part number 67035, and slide hammer kit, part number 67031.
I meant to record it, but forgot to. It’s basically opposite of removal. After you put the new bearings and shaft in place, push on the shaft inward to expose the c-clip channel, and slide it in. Then, pull the shaft back out as far is it can go with the clip in. Hope this helps.
The Axle, bearing, and seal came as a kit for about $160, and I used a bearing race and seal kit from harbor freight for about $40. Also a bottle of Diff fluid for $10. The slide hammer kit was a free rental kit. Altogether about $210. Hope this helps.
Changing axel shaft on 1999 grand marquis because my driver rear sags about a inch lower then other 3 corners , changed controls arm , sway bar , link , shock and coil spring and it still didn’t do anything . Do you think it’s the axel that cause it to sag ? I don’t notice noise or visible wobble or feel it when driving but I got flow masters and 24 inch rims so maybe that’s why it’s not noticeable?
Also , recently I was going maybe 90 on the highway and the tire with the sag issue popped off , had to tow it back , seem to have stripped the studs , not sure if that was due to to much weight or pressure on that rim ?
Thanks for the video. You did the whole job with S spring in place? I have 2011 and had to replace the clutch packs about a year and half ago, so I was in there once already not to bad but I prefer not to deal with spider gears again. Did you use a driver to seat the bearing?
Yes, whole job was done with the S-spring in. I forgot to film putting the bearing and seal in, and yes, I used the ‘Maddox brand Bearing Race and Seal Driver Set’ from Harbor Freight. I believe it was about $15-$25. Thanks for commenting, feel free to ask any questions
@@qwertyratchet Thanks brother. Yea I have to pull the axle out of drivers side tomorrow, leaking fluid all over wheel and getting some noise now. Bought new axle, bearing, seal and fluid already because I’m probably going to need a new axle hopefully not but it’s been like this for a couple days now so rather have it and return it if I do use it then not have it readyand it’s my only car currently so figured I try to get prepared before I start. Got the puller set and slide hammer already going to get bearing driver from harbor freight in the AM Great video brother, stay safe
@@mikeeyg1977 yo if you haven’t done the job I highly recommend getting a new ABS sensor. Just did this job today and the ABS sensor prevents you from pushing in the drivers side axle enough to get the C Clip out. Mine was so rusted in place only way to get it out was prying it out which broke it.
@@wjye Thank you Sir. I did mine already. I replaced the axle and the abs ring. I was able to do it with the S spring in place. Getting the C clip of the old axle was pretty easy. Getting the new abs ring on the new axle was the hardest part. I thought it would have came installed already but it didn’t. Next time I’ll take two rear rotors place one on the ground and stand the new up on it, set abs ring on then take the 2nd rotor and slide over and down the new axle and try to press it using the lugs and lug nuts and the two rotors as a press. Getting the c clip back on the below rotor was a little tricky, axle didn’t seem to want to push in far enough to get in on. It seem like it was a a couple mm off but I got it on. I had just replaced the clutch packs in the differential about a year before but before that I never opened a differential. Glad you got it done brother I should of just replaced both axle while I was there. I forgot how expensive gear oil was. 20 bucks each. Yikes
Hi @connectfour , thanks for the question. I don’t have much idea on brands, but generally OEM or anything close to it. The brand I used in this video is the Power Torque Rear Axle Kit from O’reilly auto parts.
@@MrWontstopthefunk don’t remember the brand, but I got the axle, bearing, and seal from O’Reillys, part number AXK201. I also borrowed a bearing puller, part number 67035, and slide hammer kit, part number 67031