It’s great watching your “train journey “ Bill,looking back at the Triangs etc,compared to the complexities of newer models just shows us how the hobby has moved with the times. I admire your enthusiasm,it’s great to watch.
I find that the screeching only starts 50% of the time from the motor bearings and sometime at a certain RPM. I also find that the screeching is temperature sensitive and wonder if the locomotive just warmed up or cool down from your initial run. I don't blame you for not going for the motor bearings after seeing the cluster f#+k build of Bachmann. If they keep going with Technolgy on these locomotives, they may have to just glue them together so we cannot work on them. I do have to say that you are the best mechanic I've followed on RU-vid, and I enjoy all your videos. Keep up the great work, Bill from the States.
Thanks for another excellent video. The endoscope really helps with the fiddly close up bits. I've learned so much from watching you repair locos that it gave me confidence to tackle a few of mine that had issues.... successfully too! I've also learned to be patient. Many thanks Bill you are a star
I am NEW to your Channel, but this is the First time I hve commented,But I must say you that you give Very CLEAR advice on repairs & ,you are Professional..! In ya repairs,I Lve watching ya Sagments,I am Eagerly a waiting the next Repair video,or Sagment tht you do ,Also I love your layout ,absolutely looks Brilliant...!,lve it..!Keep up the Great work you do 00bill..!,I await the next video you do...!,Eagerly..!
I had a Bachmann deltic that used to screech - it turned out to be the black plastic inserts in the flywheels were loose so any sudden changes in speed meant the drive shafts were playing catch up with the flywheels!
Could have done with you today on the Fife circle, the class 170 was in limp mode with the driver revving it up at the stations to try clear it. I was thinking where's double o Bill when you need him!
Thanks for the heads up on the diesel trains cd conversion for Lima locos. Just converted my Warship class, runs much quieter and smoother. Now for the Class 73!
Great video, i had similar problem with screeching on my bachman 66 which was purchased around 2011 i just removed the body and added a small amount of oil on the motor bearing shafts and the screeching disappeared 😊
Got a Bachmann Class 25 which a prefect runner and delightful model but is starting to make some noises. Done some work on her but watching your video it confirms my lack of enthusiasm to go in too deep!
It must be a bit frustrating to receive items for "repair" that simply need lubrication or the removal of fluffage. Though, in this case, it did screech for some reason. Every owner should ensure their locos are clean and correctly lubricated. If they did, perhaps you wouldn't get so many repairs 😀
I noticed you had several locomotives stabled at the front of your layout. As you're using DC does this mean you have several segments of track which can be isolated from each other? Thanks!
Charlie; I hope 1872 is not your birth date! Shell damage is always a worry. I have never dismantled a modern Hornby or Bachmann, but I own a few old Limas I service. The shells are held on by several pairs of clips opposite each other either side of the shell. If it is possible I remove the lugs from all but the pair nearest the end, then slightly blunt the retaining lugs on the others. The shell then pulls of easily - a bit like Kato N scale. These current production and recent production locos seem to be similar? I’m not buying hundred pound locos to find out - but the idea is none-the-less worth fielding. What's the point of a loco we cannot lube or service? For motor lube it is worth looking into taking down the loco and marking and drilling a 1/8" or so hole through the casting in line with the bearings either end of the motor. Then simply remove shell and poke through a needle oiler in future (Tiny drop; 'the nearest thing to nothing that can still be called anything'). All locos are different and this might not be possible, but still an idea worth exploring. Also, before drilling mazac/zamac ask a tradesman about drills grabbing. You need to secure the work and find out if off-the-shelf drills are safe - they are NOT safe on brass and can put you in hospital : see ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pAngKHIZgyA.html. Someone commented on modern locos strip-down: 'the first time is the last time'. Very sound. Charlie: be brave. The worst that can happen in modifying your loco, or at least exploring the possibility, is to lose millions of pounds. But that is not likely. If you finish up with Swiss clock syndrome (a reassembled loco and a fist full of parts, go cap in hand to a local club. Some kind soul will fix it for you 'all care, no responsibility'. For goodness sake folks, let's help each other out. You might even make new friends. Everyone, go have a look at a Kato N scale, and then sus out RU-vid 'The Third Rail'. And why? Well, just to see other approaches to loco design. I'm NOT having a go at Bachmann or anyone else - they provide many with hours of pleasure and essential stress relief, but it is worth being aware of other design schools. I do hope that's not your birth year. Thanks Bill.
Dunno where the 'Charlie' came from, nor when I review, the 1872. Context long gone now. What a difficult generation of locos to service. I got a like: great. Keep modelling.
@@petert9749Of course 1872 is not my birthdate but it is someone’s . Great tip about the oiling however, I have never been stumped but I have cracked the odd one.
@@petert9749 Fortunately I have never worked with a brass kit, a bit above my pay rate I’m afraid but great advice. I agree 100% about the community and I have built great relationships with many members whom I would love to bump into and have a chat👍
Good job Bill but Crikey what a complete faff. This is why Ive given up on all modern built stuff sold it all off and decided that a vintage style dublo layout is the way forward. If its built after 1963 I dont want to know anymore. 🤣
The Bachmann model that is the absolute worst is the BR Standard 4MT 2-6-4 tank. To get the body off that you need to cut the pipe runs off as they are glued from the body to the chassis. If you ever get asked to repair one Bill walk away unless you want a “jingspacked” day.
