Bad idle control valve? - Help!

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Trouble shooting a bad isle control valve? Help! Anone know of the valve is suppose to close all the way or have a small gap? Pleaselet me know.
Thanks!
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28 май 2017

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Комментарии : 38

@kipper4077 7 лет назад

Where has this channel been hiding? Great content and great videos! Keep it up!

@Seandoestech 7 лет назад

Kipper 407 thanks!

@farmerbobbygrows3338 3 года назад

Carb cleaner keep the motor part up with the electronic components up and it's supposed to open and close freely also their is a idle control valve from a 90s kia that works with the miata and it's only 70$ I have it in mine rn and it works perfectly

@grayfox-msx2940 4 года назад

The IAC shouldn't close all the way, it is designed by spec to be open with a little gap.

@EpicButterToast 5 лет назад

I have something similar to this where my Hyundai sonata 2003 check engine light turns on and says throttle body ,P1507 and has been cleaned. But after testing it first day the symptoms came back up. Did not want to replace the AIC Valve but I might have no other choice since there's a possibility that air is escaping though or its blocking. I needs help oh did you fix the problem?

@elior77 7 лет назад

Does idle valve test works normally ? Do you use "Use last value" for "Use last value or table" ?

@RomanEmpirePR 2 года назад

Hi sir do you know where’s the location of the IAC valve on Miata mx5 2006 ?

@yuuyiatakahashi1943 7 лет назад

I believe that its supposed to be slightly open when in closed loop. I'll look into it on some tech data stuff i have access to at work and see if i find anything out and let you know.

@yuuyiatakahashi1943 7 лет назад

So checking the system that I have home access to this is basically the trouble shooting steps that I found. 1a. reassemble everything, but leave the cold pipe off the throttle body so that you can still see the throttle plate. 1b. loosen the throttle cable so that there is a pinch of free slack, basically ZERO constant tension on the throttle plate. 2.check that all your settings are how you would usually have them in MS. 3. start the car, if the idle goes insanely high like you were seeing shut it off. if its just a little higher then what you have it set for in MS or in my opinion higher then about 1200-1500 RPM then go to the engine bay and unplug the IAC. "If the valve is functioning properly and it is disconnected during open loop, the engine should stall out" 4. if ideal is unchanged, then there is a vacuum leak somewhere that you haven't found. VACUUM leak easy find. (cold pipe now installed on throttle body with slack still in throttle cable.) 1. assuming that the idle isn't dangerously high, take either an air hose with a blower tip, or a can of compressed air like you'd clean a keyboard with, and gentle blow air at vacuum ports that are ON or LINKED TO the intake manifold, the mating surfaces of any parts that you removed, where the two halves if the plenum meet, around your injector wells and along the intake manifold flange where it meets the head. If you are using an air hose, and hit a leak you'll hear a slight rise in idle, if using "caned air" it will drop a little because thats CO2.... Hope this is of some help, and if you run across anything else let me know and i'll do whatever is within my ability

@Seandoestech 7 лет назад

Yuuyia Takahashi thanks, I'll try this, leaning toward the valve bring the culprit. generally, vacuum leaks won't send the idle to 3000 rpm. that's usually a stuck throttle cable or plate in my experience, but it was neither of these, which makes me think valve.

@yuuyiatakahashi1943 7 лет назад

If the vacuum leak is big enough it will jump as high as the amount of air leaking in will support. That's all the IAC is, a electronically controlled Vacuum leak.

@thewitchertales 4 года назад

@@yuuyiatakahashi1943 it will bypass the whole entire air intake all un metered air it can definitely shot it up past 1.5k or 2 I've seen it on a leak big enough then again a leak that big would be loud youd hear it

@edwin2638 2 года назад

It closes all the way, when the engine is off, it remains in closed position. That one is open that is why iddling was high

@katana2008 2 года назад

So is it supposed to close all the way or stay a little open?? Mine closes all the way.

@shadowkeeper0 7 лет назад

I believe the screw on the side is mechanically controlling this gap, you are talking about. (just guessing). Not sure what causes your problem. Have you tried messing with the screw on the side?

@Seandoestech 7 лет назад

+shadowkeeper0 there's a pentagonal socket on the idle control valve, its not meant to be adjusted, that's why it's a pentagon, no tool for it.

@sethalton205 7 лет назад

Just so that no one runs to their car and starts cranking on it... the throttle body dead stop is only supposed to be used to stop the blade in the throttle body from getting stuck. The IAC and spark table should be doing all of the idle adjustments for modern cars. Carb'd cars will use that as an idle control.

@Gtdubsterx7 2 месяца назад

I have this issue at the moment after going to a link ECU and the intake sounds like a vacuum cleaner (I have no idea what that would be as it never did it before). i have checked all around for vacuum leaks and couldn't find any but the strange thing is that when it goes to like 850-1000 it stops making the noise but as soon as you touch the throttle boom its at 2000 and stays their. and that's with the engine at op temp. I'm going to try some upper engine cleaner (sea foam for U.S readers) and see if that could help.

@Seandoestech 2 месяца назад

Did you test the air idle control valve? Sounds similar to my issue when I replaced it problem solved

@Gtdubsterx7 2 месяца назад

@@Seandoestech yes i have a NA8 though however i am enquiring through a kia dealership to see if it will work on my model

@melody3741 7 лет назад

i found online that you can check it by unplugging it and jumping the ground-10 on the diagnostic plug like youre checking timing and this will create a completely uncontrolled idle and if it still does it you'd know it was a vacuum leak and if it doesnt youd know it was the valves.

@melody3741 7 лет назад

actually its TEN not 10, its labeled as t-e-n apparently.

@melody3741 7 лет назад

because that valve seems fine.

@timvittetoe7082 6 лет назад

Its none of that....If your symptoms are long crank times...irratic idle.....stalling......poor gas mileage and just running like crap all together, stop spending. The classic copy cat imposter that acts like a bad idle air control is FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR LEAKING INTO THROTTLE BODY VACUUM HOSE....pull the vacuum hose from the top of the regulator it may take awhie to see but if fuel makes its way up to that hose via a bad diaphragm then it will cause the idle to undulate slowly up and down and hi idle perhaps when starting on a new morning. Its the perfect copy cat to bad IAC....the vac hose sucks the fuel from regulator...causing engine to rev, computer steps in and adds more air to compensate but he cant keep up with the algorythms and vacuum keeps sucking spent fuel and it overwhelms computer and says screw this im just not gonna act right.....then Mr MAF sensor says if the regulator is not gonna act right neither am i lol.....so they all keep arguing until u get a new pressure regulator. Ive seen countless people buy sensors and pull theyre hair out trying to figure it out. Problem is, you wont see any codes for the regulator. Itll give false code like EGR flow restricted or lean banks or air intake temp sensor or even a coolant temp sensor. I cant blame them though all the symptoms point straight at the IAC valve which by doesnt move much at all...it just has a pintle, spring and diaphrahm basically and all does is take the place of yur foot when you take it off of the gas pedal because at that point the throt body flap is completely shut and needs a means to get air so IAC provides a bypass to keep things goin until yur foots back on the pedal. I usually clean the IAC by getting someone to turn the key off an on while i spray it with cleaner...that about the only way to get it to move i believe short of prying on it and you dont wanna do that. I hope all ive said gives you some insight. Ill also say this...in those situations where it may be a leaky reg instead of IAC the can be found early in the game by reading the manuals. Itll clearly say to put a fuel pressure gage on and check pressure both with the vac hose on the reg and then check again with the vac hose off. So when you try to check the pressure with the vac hose off the regulator as you as take that hose off to check the pressure it gives u that one oppertunity to catch mr regulator leaking lol...have a good evenin...

@Manatee360Phototography 4 года назад

thank you for this. I need to try exactly what you said because my car is showing the typical idle control valve problems. any chance you could message me and help a fairly green car tinkerer out?

@gbkny1 4 года назад

Yes i thank you as well. when it comes to cars i am a perfectionist as far as how i want my engine to run and i want mine to run at least 80% like new. I've taken my BMW e28 to three mechanics no less. It's had three valve adjustments done . one right before purchase(bp) and two after purchase(ap). four leak test. IRV replaced. Throttle Body Rebuilt. Coolant temp sensor replaced. Boot, hoses and fuel injectors cleaned. It still doesn't run right. And i'm being told "it's not gonna get any better than that". Hell it is. I know this car can run better than it is and someone will have the right fix. As i scour the Bentley i'm thinking Fuel Pressure Regulator. Not only does it not run right. It also seems a little sluggish. Every so often the gas gauge and gas mileage will go haywire. Almost a half tank to go sixty miles. ah who knows. but i'm lost. I don't work on cars but i sure wish i did. I was also thinking 02 sensor. I was also thinking, ok. since the Throttle Body was rebuilt then maybe the Throttle Position Sensor is bad. smh! These BMW's but there are so many people with this issue. i am grateful for the help in any direction. What is sad is not many people want to work on these cars because they are vacuum based and they're old school cars. Thanks Tim. You're the bomb.

@gbkny1 4 года назад

I was also thinking, ok. since the Throttle Body was rebuilt then maybe the Throttle Position Sensor is bad. smh! These BMW's

@stuartbear922 4 года назад

Gbkny1, replace your ground leads. They can be dodgy with age. Especially if they're corroded green on the ends. Replace all of them under the hood and vehicle. Or heck, add additional ones. Next, disconnect all electrical connections and clean with electrical cleaner.

@edwin2638 2 года назад

It opens on acceleration but remains closed at idle.

@martincraig778 2 года назад

Just cleaned mine with brake cleaner. Mine has a gap although very tiny. Don't think yours is closing far enough.

@rwdlocked963 5 лет назад

Did you ever solve this problem?

@Seandoestech 5 лет назад

Yes, I replaced the IAC valve.

@dwdkokab8406 5 лет назад

Boosted Miata: After speeding g to 80 mph, My Geo metro goes up and down in idle only in park or neutral, but drives normal. However it does has higher idle than normal in drive when I stop at a red light. I have no leaks. Should I check the fuel pressure regulator first then the IAC?