Bailing off a route, for real! How to escape off a climb and get back down. Lowering and abseiling.

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Part way up the awesome 7a Super Massive Black Hole, the rain came, which gave a good opportunity to discuss getting off a route!
Kit in this video:
Beal Joker rope amzn.to/3bR1u9w
ATC Guide amzn.to/2zGTjOP
DMM Boa amzn.to/3aWwt2P
DMM Phantom amzn.to/3dbaN4x
DMM 8mm slings amzn.to/2Wkreo3
Shot on a Sony A6500 amzn.to/3dafMCz
With a cheapy microphone amzn.to/35nHqJn
GoPro Hero 7 Black amzn.to/2MPrAyZ
Anker power pack: amzn.to/2SEjRa1
On a Joby tripod amzn.to/3f8N0nu
Victiv Tripod amzn.to/2zSiSx5
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Опубликовано:

30 июн 2020

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Комментарии : 39

@chrismorris9396 3 года назад

A rare bolted multi pitch, what a hidden gem

@JBMountainSkills 2 года назад

It's an awesome spot, in the dry!

@johrman04 3 года назад

Another great video! Love seeing some footage from the field too!!

@DerrickNedzelMtnBike 2 месяца назад

Beautiful quarry! Looks like n amazing place to climb - when it’s dry! 😀. Very helpful video, thank for sharing posting!

@StaggerLee68 3 года назад

Back in the day we bailed from the 17th pitch of Mescalito after waiting out a storm for 4 days. We had maybe two days of clearing with a 2 week system coming after. When we got down, I was pretty bent for not topping out until a great friend on our Yosar crew pointed out that we now know how to bail off anything, unsupported. That man was Cade Lloyd and he changed the whole picture for me, not for the first time. "If you can't rescue yourself, you have no business being up there." I would say, a legendary quote from a legend I am proud to have known and shared a rope with. Check your head, eh? Be better at getting back down from anywhere, then you can climb scary things with confidence and responsibly. Peace and happy climbing, Cheers.

@JBMountainSkills 3 года назад

Love it!

@MattC342 3 года назад

Is the maillon also threaded for redundancy in the anchor or is there another reason why not to just abseil off the one smooth bolt?

@KubaClimbsRocks 3 года назад

Really positive vibes considering you got soaked, that's what it's all about, being out there and having fun no matter what!! Also you made me curious about the route, looks ace! I've only climbed a bit in the quarries, gonna have to come back eventually! :)

@JBMountainSkills 3 года назад

Such a cool route in an ace part of the quarries :)

@creatamax16 4 года назад

Loving the new intro music, proper good vibes. Keep em up mate.

@JBMountainSkills 4 года назад

Cheers! Will do :)

@theSquashSH 3 года назад

Enjoyed this. Been looking for more "how to escape bad situations" videos for climbing and rigging. Would also love to see more on "how to get down when you drop xyz gear by accident" e.g. when working with a shortage of some critical gear like locking carabiners.

@JBMountainSkills 3 года назад

Glad you enjoyed it! I'll give that video a thought for sure, here's one you might like if you've not already seen it :) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5l4f_-cvPng.html

@officialcoachdanny 4 года назад

What a beautiful wall that is, looks like the English el cap 🤩🤩🤩

@jamief2488 4 года назад

*Welsh !

@JBMountainSkills 4 года назад

Beautiful for sure, but definitely Welsh ;)

@ananda_miaoyin 2 года назад

I always carry a few off brand lockers for this exact reason. Not too butt hurt over an 8 dollar beener but leaving a draw would piss me off!

@Astilath 4 года назад

I've heard mixed opinions about leaving/using maillons for this. But nobody has ever explained why. Figured it was a bad etiquette thing. Maybe something to do with them being difficult to remove if theyre on the hanger for a while? What are your thoughts on this? Have you encountered such grumbling? Btw, I use them. I have a couple on my harness at all times which I plan to replace with slightly worn out biners. But so far I've donated my worn out biners for mates to rack gear.

@JBMountainSkills 4 года назад

Rhys Morgan they can be a pain left mid route if they corrode shut, can make the bolt hard to clip. I don’t see any drama leaving one on a belay like this. If I do bail mid pitch I’d normally leave an old crab instead out of choice.

@tomtom4405 3 года назад

At 5:12 there's something written on a bit of slate, what does it say? Also do you have any tips for leader bailing off a trad route when already past half way in rope. Thank. (Interested in route just to left with the wobbly ladder pitch - have you done that too?)

@JBMountainSkills 3 года назад

"Super Massive Black Hole" I haven't done that other on 6 something I think!

@TheBenBen253 2 года назад

Lol, around the 3 min mark there's a guy being lowered off a route in the top left. I thought he did a ground fall because of the sped up footage 🤣 I was just like.....😱

@JBMountainSkills 2 года назад

😂

@gregh7831 4 года назад

How would things change if you'd both been at the top of say the 2nd pitch? How would the first abseiler secure at the top of the first pitch?

@JBMountainSkills 4 года назад

In this case, with the 60m rope we were on I'd have lowered the second to the floor in a oner and then done two abs to get myself down. If the floor was too far, we'd rap down to the last belay. The second would have to secure themselves to the bolts, lots of options with that, but using a sling to join the two bolts and clip to that to make themselves safe, then me as the leader abseiling down to join them, clipping in to the same sling set up.

@MrAlgy3289 3 года назад

Looks very like dinorwig quarry. Where was this? Been exploring there quite a bit recently. May go search for the climb. Theres so much climbing there!

@JBMountainSkills 3 года назад

Yeah it is, in Twll Mawr, ace bit of the quarries :)

@AndrewHelgeCox 2 года назад

Do you have some videos where you actually go through the whole thing?

@steveh1641 3 года назад

Hi, bit if a newbie so excuse me if it's a silly question. What are the benefits of lowering your partner rather than you both abseiling off? Should this ideally always be done this way when escaping a route? Thanks in advance and love the videos.

@nathanburke8387 3 года назад

If they are halfway up and you decide to bail ,it’s quicker to just lower them ,also if you have a novice

@JBMountainSkills 3 года назад

Not a silly question at all! As Nathan says, it was purely to be a bit quicker :)

@jeremyballard7461 4 года назад

Cracker Jez. Great to see real time problem solving.

@JBMountainSkills 4 года назад

Cheers, glad you liked it :)

@blaise3004 Год назад

So you kinda need a maillon rapide per pitch really if you have to bail the proper way on petzl "sharp" bolts. But surely no one carries 20 maillons for a 20 pitch climb ? Or do they???

@timonix2 Месяц назад

Most of the time bolted belays either have smooth bolts, rings, or chains that you can thread the rope through. So you leave nothing. If the climb only has these sharp bolts at every belay station... Then yes. You would leave something at each. a carabiner or a maillon. Do not leave maillons in the middle of a route. But at anchors it's absolutely fine.

@nettewilson853 2 года назад

Hah wish rain was my excuse.

@thepointlessvideo100 Год назад

Great video once again Jez! What are your thoughts on the 'texas rope trick' (link below!) where you use a sling and three lengths of the rope to abseil down and then retreieve all your gear. Assuming it would leave you with enough rope to do what you need, would you ever use this method, or would you rather just leave a crab? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-AkZKaSX6N1M.html&ab_channel=HowNOT2

@alexandreweber2401 3 месяца назад

I will never go climbing with a guy who is such a shitty relay for me. No joke! What does he think he's explaining to us, with his key ring carabiners and straps made from shoe laces?

@JBMountainSkills 3 месяца назад

Oh you deleted your other reply..? I usually do just delete stupid posts but... "key ring carabiners and straps made from shoe laces". Funnily enough any kit you see in this video is fully rated climbing kit. Mostly DMM but the rated prusik loop is Simond. No joke...