Bandai Perfect Grade Millennium Falcon 5.5: Hull Colour Guide, Cockpit Tube Assembly & Pre-Shading

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Join Foxx as he builds Bandai's incredible Perfect Grade 1/72 Millennium Falcon, an outstanding push-fit kit with mind-blowing detail and full lighting. In this episode, he sorts the last bits of assembly, primes and pre-shades the hull and shows you how he mixes his version of the Falcon's off-white hull colour and how to paint it to take advantage of the pre-shading effect.
Get this kit for yourself from my channel sponsor eModels.co.uk: www.emodels.co.uk/revell-1-72...
BASIC PAINTS LIST (thanks to PKAWA)
Abteilung 502 Oil Paints Used:
ABTF510 Starship Filth
ABT093 Earth
ABT070 Dark Rust
ABT060 Light Rust Brown
ABT520 dead Flesh
ABT050 olive Green
ABT015 Shadow Brown
ABT160 Engine Grease
ABT180 Copper Oxide blue
ABT215 Flesh Shadow
Decals:
MIcroSOL
MicroSET
Primers ultimate primer black
Ultimate Modelling Products Ultimate Primer Grey
Ultimate Modelling Products Ultimate Primer Black
OR Badger Stynylrez equivalents
OR Ammo by Mig One Shot Primer
Pre-shade:
Tamiya Rubber Black XF-85
Light Blocking: black primer or black paint.
Cockpit:
Mix Tamiya XF-85 and XF-23
Ammo by Mig Crystal Periscope Green A.MIG-0096
Citadel Shade: Nuln Oil
Vallejo paints:
72.061
72.053
72.054
72.034
72.042
72.149
Matte Varnish:
Vallejo Premium Varnish Matte 62.062
Thinners:
Oils & enamels: Abteilung 502 odourless thinner ABT111
Tamiya paints: 99% isopropyl alcohol
Base Hull Colour:
Tamiya Deck Tan XF-55 + Tamiya Flat White XF-2 4:1 mix (4 Tan to 1 White)
Glue:
Tamiya Extra Thin cement
Tamiya Cement
Thin or medium CA glue (for photoetch parts ONLY)
Modelmaking Guru is sponsored by eModels.co.uk - www.emodels.co.uk
THIS SERIES IS FILMED AND PRODUCED BY ME FOR MY CHANNEL SPONSORS, EMODELS.CO.UK, WHO ARE AWARE AND HAPPY THAT THIS CONTENT APPEARS ON BOTH THEIR CHANNEL AND MINE.
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To see more builds, writeups, builds for sale and more go to :
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All musical pieces used herein - unless otherwise credited in the titles or this text - are composed and performed by by Foxx Wolf/dogsounds and used with permission - from me, because I composed, arranged and recorded them, and it is all original work ^_^
"Perspectives" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com) Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/b...
Some additional music taken from the RU-vid licence-free archive.
Use of "O Canada" as per Public Domain rights: "O Canada" performed by the United States Navy Band circa 2003, composition performance AND recording are in the public domain. Source: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Un...
Sound effects used provided by freesfx.co.uk www.freesfx.co.uk
Various VFX/SFX & music provided by ProductionCrate: www.productioncrate.com
Title sequence footage from "Dialogue With Life" (Public Domain)
#Bandai #StarWars #MillenniumFalcon

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Опубликовано:

31 авг 2020

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Комментарии : 61

@lolollook1055 3 года назад

Brilliant easy to follow and practical advice on airbrushing techniques. Thanks! Thumbs up!

@gurufoxx 3 года назад

Thanks, glad you found it helpful ^_^

@ascensionindustries9631 3 года назад

Great airbrush tutorial. Thanks again. Can't wait to get started with my setup.

@gurufoxx 3 года назад

Thank you, you are welcome ^_^

@hankmoody5241 2 года назад

Truly amazing how informative this video collection you put together is. Knowing at some point in my life, I have to have the most accurate Millennium Falcon with in reason. This well be #1 for my collection, you helped me greatly. Just purchased this from e models using your link. Live in USA California, and been having trouble finding this model, and everyone selling it seemed a little unsafe. You’re videos informed me how amazing this model is, made me feel like I can really complete this model at very high level (which is a MUST, however long it may take), and a safe place to purchase with your link at e models. Thank you so much!

@gurufoxx 2 года назад

Thanks, I appreciate that! You are more than welcome! You'll enjoy it and have fun :) If you are nervous about painting it, I always recommend getting a cheap crappy $30 Revell Falcon as a test pig, so you can practice the painting on that before doing it on the "proper" Bandai kit. Enjoy!

@garethpiperboxing 3 года назад

Awesome as always Foxx

@gurufoxx 3 года назад

Thank you :)

@lukerotha 2 года назад

Thanks man! I am going t buy it and your guide has helped me a lot! I know... I come back to watch your videos 1, 2, 3, 4... times for a long, long time. :) 😃

@gurufoxx 2 года назад

Awesome! You'll love it :)

@brynleyperry4356 3 года назад

Legend! Been scouring the interweb for a new scheme to do my tau army, after painting the first models with a cold white which just made them look wrong to me. I think this is going to be the solution. I have Vallejo deck tan and some whites or failing that maybe the Rakarf and pallid whites from gdubs. Project millennium tau is a go!

@gurufoxx 3 года назад

Oooh yeah, it would look great on a Riptide!

@IAmGreytonn 3 года назад

awsome, i need to get me this kit

@gurufoxx 3 года назад

Why yes, yes you do ^_^

@killachief187 3 года назад

Looking good 👍

@gurufoxx 3 года назад

Thank you :)

@gavinbooth 3 года назад

The first video i have watched and listened to as i work and not only did i learn a lot but your enthusiasm was a real lift so thanks for posting its appreciated . Regards Gav.

@gurufoxx 3 года назад

Thanks! You are more than welcome, good luck with yours :)

@davepastern 3 года назад

thanks foxx, new sub to your channel, loving your Millennium Falcon vids - a lot to watch and a lot to learn. Have just bought the Revell re-badge of the Bandai perfect grade (well, that's what the Amazon AU site said, but I suspect it'll probably be the Revell master series Falcon...). Quite scared of those small parts, especially since I'm pretty inexperienced.

@gurufoxx 3 года назад

Ah, you'll be fine, Bandai kits ae easy no matter what the part count :) Revell do have the Bandai licence but thankfully it is not to re-box them, it is only to distribute them in the EU and UK, so all they have actually done is put their logo on the box ^_^

@davepastern 3 года назад

@@gurufoxx those small parts on sprue I and K scare the bejesus out of me lol!!! it won't be a matter or not breaking any, it'll be a fact of braking a tonne load lol! I'll prolly just cut them off the sprue and not clean them up super good like you do, at least for the really delicate and small parts. BTW, what are the items that you use to hold your glue and paint pots? They're very nifty and me likey likey. I've had a lot of problems with Amazon in the past 12 months, and after I bought the kit, Amazon changed the seller details (from S&L to Amazon UK). When I bought the kit, there was only 2 in stock, now there's an unspecified number, but obviously more than 2. And the price was suspicious ($640 AUD inc $146 for shipping to Australia). I suspect that it'll be the revell masters series to be honest. It's another week and a bit until it's meant to arrive - shipping from UK/Europe is horrendously slow vs from the US (same carrier - DHL). 4 days from US to Australia, nearly 2 weeks from UK to Australia...go figure. If it's wrong, I'll just send it back. Will keep you posted. PS emodels UK seems to have the Revell perfect grade re-badge in stock, so will grab it from them if Amazon stuffs up as expected. Oh, one other thing, do you have a folder (or link to a page etc) of your ANH 5' studio model kit for reference? I found a page on the web with some shots, but very limited and my books (sculpting a galaxy) doesn't have too many shots of the falcon). I do have a 1st edition Star Wars Chronicles, but that's in storage, packed away somewhere and I have no idea and I'm not paying mega dollars to buy it again.

@davepastern 3 года назад

@@gurufoxx oh, I meant to send you this link - not sure if you've ever seen it or not, but fascinating reading on the origins of the Falcon!!! kitbashed.com/blog/a-complete-history-of-the-millennium-falcon

@gurufoxx 3 года назад

@@davepastern Well If Amazon have it listed as the Bandai Falcon and you get the Revell Fine Molds Falcon, you can return it and get a refund ^_^ I recently deleted all my Falcon ref pics as I no longer needed them, but many of them were from here: modelermagic.com/?s=millennium+falcon+studio+model

@sdeeks_photos44 2 года назад

Hi fox ! Great vids but can I ask you use Tamiya xf 85 rubber black to pre shade but as you say it’s a grey , can you use a grey if cannot get hold of the black ??

@gurufoxx 2 года назад

Hi! You can use any colour you like! Rubber Black is a very dark grey so almost black but not quite, but for a Falcon any dark grey will do as long as it is reasonably dark and so will show through a light base coat as a shadow. Stick to neutral dark colours like very dark greys though, as something like dark brown (that you would use to pre-shade a yellow or red vehicle) would of course create unwanted warmer, browner shading.

@spacehamsterZH 3 года назад

Well, I just ordered this from Emodels, so tell them your pimping the kit is working, hahaha. I know I want to build this eventually, and I'll be kicking myself until the end of time if I don't get it with the lights.

@gurufoxx 3 года назад

yay! My FOMO-triggers worked :D Awesome duder, thank you for shopping with them, I appreciate it! I look forward to seeing how you get on!

@spacehamsterZH 3 года назад

@@gurufoxx oh, it'll be on the 'Hut for sure. I'm actually thinking I'll just follow your videos for the most part, that eliminates the need to do my own planning and organization, ahem.

@gurufoxx 3 года назад

@@spacehamsterZH Aha, the lazy way AKA "The Way of the Foxx"- as the world's laziest modeller I fully endorse this approach ^_^

@cedricvoglet4675 2 года назад

Hello, Sorry for the noob question but what airbrush and compressor do you suggest to paint this model ? I'm all new to this and would really like to acquire this Millennium Falcon and paint it myself! Thank you for your advices :) Best regards, Cédric

@gurufoxx 2 года назад

Hi! It's impossible to advise a specific airbrush as it is a very personal choice, but I would say AVOID cheap airbrush & compressor sets tat you find on Amazon - if you see an airbrush AND compressor together OR if you see the word "makeup" in the name or description it is usually cheap Chinese knock-off rubbish and will be of poor quality and unreliable (especially if it is less than £100). For airbrushes stick to known, reliable brands like Iwata, Badger, Sparmax, Paasche and Harder & Steenbeck - but work within your budget. Don't start super-expensive, just in case you don't like airbrushing! Start with a less expensive brush like the Sparmax, Badger or Iwata brushes and if you like the process, you can always upgrade later. Just make sure the brush is GRAVITY FEED (cup on top) and DUAL ACTION (air and paint flow control separately). If you have any problems with your hands such as limited mobility or arthritis or cramps, you may prefer a trigger-grip airbrush like the Iwata TRN1. As for compressors, again go within your budget but here you can find a generic AS186 compressor and tank for around £85 - it's the most common budget compressor and are often re-labelled with different brand names. Also make sure to get a moisture trap if the compressor does not have one. I have a good selection of brushes and compressors and other airbrush tools in my Amazon Store ( www.amazon.co.uk/shop/modelmakingguru?listId=3H1GRZM85WKA0 ) BUT it is a UK store so, assuming you are outside the UK you can use the products listed in there as a guide to see what you might find on your own countries' Amazon storefront :)

@cobusprinsloo 5 месяцев назад

Thanks for a great tutorial! What air pressure do you use for this type of work? And what needle size?

@gurufoxx 5 месяцев назад

I use a .35 Iwata neo airbrush, As for the pressure, that will be different from person to person because it always depends on your specific equipment, but I tend to run around 12-15 PSI for normal spraying.

@cobusprinsloo 4 месяца назад

@@gurufoxxthank you. That is quite low.

@cobusprinsloo 5 месяцев назад

Thank you for a great tutorial! What air pressure do you use for this type of work?

@gurufoxx 5 месяцев назад

@cobusprinsloo 5 месяцев назад

@@gurufoxx Thank you, that is valuable information I can use.

@cobusprinsloo 5 месяцев назад

Please tell us where we can obtain those empty plastic bottles where you store your new paint mixes? I realized to my misfortune that not any plastic bottle is fit for storing paint! The acrylic paint thinner dissolved the plastic!

@gurufoxx 5 месяцев назад

ha ha I simply ordered them off Amazon years ago! I don't know if they would survive the thinners either though as I only use them whilst I am painting the model and then they are thrown away - I've never mixed or thinned paints that I won't be using straight away.

@garryloughrey8390 Год назад

I like to seal my shading coat then put white over the top No greying

@gurufoxx Год назад

That is indeed an equally valid method of preshading and I use it often! Specifically for the Falcon though I find targeted pre-shading over primer gives me tons more precise control to "pop out" much of the ship's vast amount of greebling ^_^ Also with the Falcon specifically, having a dark undercoat over the whole model and then spraying the off-white hull colour can lead to the hull looking too cold, with a bluish grey hue, rather than a slightly creamy warm off-white - dark primer coats always affect the colour of the paint above them unless the paint is blocked over opaquely. Having a white primer and the pre-shaded panel lines makes sure that such hue bleedthrough is only in the shadow areas, and the rest of the ship keeps a warm tone.

@quano-man2306 3 года назад

I did that scrapified back wall thing (thats totally a lajit technical term lol) but I can't get a proper pic of it cos the two light strip just blind the cam like I'm torying to take pictures of a headlight

@gurufoxx 3 года назад

I have literally no idea what any of this means :D :D

@quano-man2306 3 года назад

@@gurufoxx I now declare my self to be the ultimate agent of chaos and confusionzzzz :D HAHAHAHAHAHAHA

@gurufoxx 3 года назад

@@quano-man2306 O wait your reign is at an end because I just realised you were talking about the back wall. YOU have to adjust expsoure for that kind of photo, and not use a POTATOECAM :D

@sci-fimodeler1701 3 года назад

Hi there, How many were made? did you say 70? I just got one at a good price. Thanks god. I did not know that the standard version only had stickers. Thanks for the heads up.

@gurufoxx 3 года назад

Oh, they probably made thousands and thousands, but it was a one-off run when the kit was launched and after that only the stickers version was left available. There were enough that it can still be found here and there in legitimate stores but only just - eModels managed to shag pretty much all of the remaining stock available in the UK and once that is gone, that's pretty much it here. Eventually it will only be found on eBay and such places where prices will be astronomical. The old Fine Molds kit used to go for £750 when that went out of print.

@sci-fimodeler1701 3 года назад

@@gurufoxx Thanks for the info, thanks for the vids. I really enjoyed the space 1999 eagle build and I love this one as well. This one I will wait a bit and build the other star wars kits I have first to practice the painting and weathering techniques.

@gurufoxx 3 года назад

@@sci-fimodeler1701 It's worth the practice ^_^

@XxbeyblademasterxX 3 года назад

Man you are good! It's beyblade BTW I had to change usernames cuz I'm about to go to uni. I'm not gonna be able to do models for a while so your videos will definitely help tide me over

@gurufoxx 3 года назад

Thank you and hello to the new name ^_^ Have fun learning things with your GRATE BRANE ^_^

@XxbeyblademasterxX 3 года назад

@@gurufoxx I got to the part where you're thinning tamiya, because I'm masochistic I actually fill mine until near the top because I love how smooth it gets for details yet I can still slap it on when needed. Also the local brands in the Philippines exclusively sell in dropper bottles so they are godsends, I've got a dozen emptied bottles that I filled with my old spray paints

@gurufoxx 3 года назад

@@XxbeyblademasterxX I do that sometimes, especially for the thicker metallics, on occasion. There's no precise amount, it's a "more or less" kind of thing :)

@adamwalker8483 Год назад

You wouldn't know any professional model painters in Sydney Australia that could paint my kit?

@gurufoxx Год назад

G;day! The only Aussie maker I am aware of is ModelChili, who's in Melbourne, but I have no clue if he takes commission work: ru-vid.com

@daveyjones5702 Год назад

that awkward gap might be easier to fill with a different type of filler. i use vallejo plastic putty sometimes, and it's water based so you can apply it and then manipulate it and clean it up with water and get it perfect before drying, rather then sanding it afterwards.

@gurufoxx Год назад

If it wiorks for you then go for it :) There are plenty of alternatives to using sprue goo, but for me personally the massive advantage of sprue goo (apart from it being cheap - it's just Extra Thin cement with left over bits of sprue in it) is you are filling a gap with actual polystyrene and not fillers of putties, so it will behave the same as the rest of the kit when worked later. I've used various different putties over the years and none of them are as sandable or sculptable or accept scribed lines as well as the plastic they are on. With sprue goo you can scribe a panel line through it and it will be as sharp as on the kit plastic, because that's what it is. Most putties will not give as crisp an edge when scribed through. Plus many putties actually shrink as they cure, which can leave you with a sunken depression where the gap was, and they take much longer to cure than sprue goo, which is usually done after an hour or two. Basically it works for me because I am cheap and lazy and will always take the cheapest, least-complex option if it offers the same or better results :) Plus I honestly can guarantee you 100% that, no matter how careful you are, if you don't sand back the filled area once it has cured, you will see evidence of it as soon as a prime coat goes over it either in texture or as lumps, bumps and edges. Trust me, primer will show all the sins that you can't see looking at the bare filled plastic :D And sprue goo sands exactly the same as the plastic around it so you can sand it back to a high-gloss plastic shine, same as the kit plastic around it, making it even more invisible when primed and painted over If there was significant sculpting to do - say on the other side of the cockpit tube where the raised strip would have needed sculpting back in (where I just added a greeble) then a solid filler putty like Milliput or Green Stuff etc would have been better, because there you need a physical lump to shape, but for simple gaps like on the inside of the tube liquid putties are fine, and I just find sprue goo faster, cheaper and more workable later than other liquid putties. Finally, you are actually reinforcing the bond where the gap is with sprue goo, because the Extra Thin part of it is melting the kit plastic and mixing all the polystyrene in it into this melted plastic - you are basically not just filling a gap but removing it completely by welding it with more plastic, joining together two plastic parts that before did not even touch - reinforcing any structural weakness and making a stronger model. Most putties just sit in the gap without being bonded to the plastic so there is always the very slim chance that over time they will mechanically break down or fail due to say the model being moved a lot, or being knocked, or temperature change expansion and contraction, or just naturally break down chemically over the years. Unlikely, but not impossible.

@daveyjones5702 Год назад

@@gurufoxx i might argue that's really a matter of how you use it and familiarity with the product. you can do things like mix in some glue (often used to create cast metal textures on tanks) and of course you need to seal it in with varnish. and so on... every product has it's quirks. on the other hand creative solutions are a big and fun part of this hobby, so ultimately it comes down to the old axiom: 'if it works, it works'.

@daveyjones5702 Год назад

@@gurufoxx i had one idea about sprue goo though: what if you ground down the plastic to a fine powder and apply it like the old superglue + baking soda trick? the powder would have to be superfine, but with the capillary action of thin glues it should work and offer a lot of control over the situation and minimize sanding afterwards. only problem is: how do you get that plastic to become a fine powder?

@gurufoxx Год назад

@@daveyjones5702 Ooh, I can see your logic there, and it makes sense, but you'd have the problem of how you would get the powder and glue to float in mid-air between either side of the gap you are filling :) Plus, thin glues flash off and evaporate away very quickly (and thick gluers don't melt the plastic enough). If you just dump a shed load of spare plastic in the glue pot and leave it to all melt down over a few minutes, you have a ready-to-go pot of gloopy substance that will last you for years before running out and have the surface tension to cover a small gaps nicely . Also making it into a powder sounds like a million percent more work :) SG is not perfect for every situation, of course, but it is definitely a very handy tool to have available on your bench, and it is a bit more enviro-friendly as you are recycling old sprue and bits :)

@gurufoxx Год назад

@@daveyjones5702 Absolutely! There is very rarely a right or wrong answer to any modelling situation, there are often multiple ways to get the same end result, so it's handy to know the pros and cons of each option and then decide which works best for you :)