I've learned with any engine from chainsaws to trucks, anything intake related is fruitless without exhaust. In plain words, "It can't eat if it can't shit"
Where it’s very noticeable is when pulling a heavy trailer up long grades. With the Banks intake/tubes/intercooler/ram and 5” exhaust: The inflow and outflow are far less restricted, legal and result in an amazing improvement.
You're absolutely right about upgrading the intake you still have the Exhaust side holding you back, back in the 80s I had a 1970 Dodge Coronet 500 with a 383 out of another car I found, after about a year someone crossed the center line and took out the side of the car, I found a replacement 70 coronet that was missing the engine but still had the cheep factory exhaust in it. Now the original Coronet was heavily modified! Edelbrock intake, Holly Dual feed double pumper carb, black jack headers and more! It was easier to just drop the engine in the new body and use the original exhaust so it could get back on the road faster. The headers were a real pain to remove and install had to separate the center link to get them out, I drove that dog around for about 1 day and couldn't take it anymore! That factory exhaust choked the engine so bad I couldn't even get the tires to chirp!! Now the donor body had a 318 in it originally so the 383 was an air hungry beast. Once I got those headers on again it was like going from a Yugo to a Vette!! And the fuel mileage was way better (driving sanely) 20 mpg! If I beat on it 10-12. Now no turbos involved here but the logic is still the same what goes in has to have a way out! If the exit is constricted so is the intake. The only way to get what that Cummins is capable of is to delete it!! That's a huge risk with everything going on today, sure you will get lots of power, better mileage, and a few other benefits but if they start cracking down as EVe becomes the norm not worth loosing your truck or getting tens of thousands in fines or maybe jail time? The government is shutting down companies that make and or sell delet kits. Even Sparks motors was in hot water, I'm sure they still do it for people they know but it's going underground now like booze during the Prohibition, a Diesel Speakeasy. I really want to delete my 12 Ram so bad since I primarily use it to tow a 9000lb camper all over the USA I'm going over the Rockies in a few weeks, that extra power would be welcome.
100% agree. I will say, that if I had a RAM that was Pre-DEF, parts would have fallen off immediately. The DEF systems are not great, but are anecdotally a bit better than the original pre-DEF attempt at emissions control. Thanks!
A lot of the benefit of this set up is how much easier it is on the emissions system because they do run so much cleaner. It would have to be completely retuned to take full advantage performance wise.
Thanks for the info, im not looking to race my 2500,just improve it with emissions. your videos have helped me rethink all that. I dont see spend over a grand for that little improvement. love the look (since i have a red ram) but i guess ill wait and buy another gun.... 😂
My friend just lost his 2017 6.7 engine with 87000 miles due to the grid heater bolt coming loose into the engine. That alone is worth $1000...like the killer dowl pin on my 12 valve 5.9....that was $1000 too with labor.
Hey Aaron did you see a gain in MPG I have 22 crew cab h.o Cummins Dually 4:10’s trying to squeeze anything I can realistically out of her with diesel ticking up to $6 a gallon here in Pittsburgh
Oof. I hear ya. Maybe slightly, but not anything super obvious. I just ran a 1200 mile round trip half with an empty trailer and half with a 2013 civic on the trailer and averaged about 14.7mpg. I was taking it easy and never really got above 70. I don't drive it much empty but I can usually get about 17mpg if I'm nice to it on a generally all highway trip. It isn't enough to justify the cost unless you're driving tons of miles in my opinion. Thanks!
@@aaronsrose thank you my friend really enjoyed the videos and this’ll be a truck I’m going to be keeping for a while so when I get bored I’ll throw some money at it Lol
Does it do anything for better pulling or longevity of the engine? I don’t race my truck but I live at altitude so I would love the truck to breath a lot better and pull the RV down the road a lot easier.
For my 3500 with 4.10 gears and Aisin trans, I don't notice any difference towing with a gross combination weight of 23k. I think it's getting maybe 5% better fuel economy overall but that's about it in my experience. It does seem to reduce the restriction between turbo and manifold so at altitude it may be a bit more helpful than down here at 100 feet ASL. Thanks!
@@aaronsrose Thank you. I have a 2021 3500 HO SRW with the max on the RV at 14k. I was thinking it might help at altitude and if it did anything for mpg then that would be a bonus. I would say it would be a no brainer if it was $500 bucks but like you said, $1000 bucks is a little steep. Thanks.
My wife has a 2018 Ram 2500 with the 6.7L. A friend has the same year 3500 with the 6.7L. His grid heater had the bolt get sucked into the engine. $15k repair. This seems like a bargain at $1k, to prevent a $15k repair. Any other benefits are gravy.
That's how I look at it. There's still an intake horn hold down bolt inside the monster ram but it doesn't get heated like the heater bolt does. Thanks!
@@aaronsrose So what keeps that bolt from backing off and falling in? Is it locktited in there or what keeps that from becoming a problem? I like the idea of deleting that grid heater. Your reporting less boost or zero makes it sound like it is more efficient. So if it manages go get any improvement in economy while removing the grid heater risk it might be worth it. It is pretty expensive for what it is. Thanks for sharing.
@@KD-kf4zm Around 130k miles on his truck about the time of failure. He lives in LA Honda , CA. Which is on the San Francisco peninsula. Cool but mostly mild weather.
well mine "fell off" at 26,000mi. and It's been better off since then, got 276,856mi on it now bought it new in 07 with 26mi on the OD. I just did the heater grid and intake from Banks about a month ago along with their Boost Tubes. it runs a lot better since I installed everything. It will hit 30lbs of boost when you really get on the throttle.
Hey there question I just had one installed in my 2019 with the boost tubes and cold air intake and now I have a hiss sound coming into the driver side of the truck it’s loud with the windows up when when you step on the pedal it’s a loud his sounds like a vacuum leak but the truck didn’t throw any codes ? How does your truck sound ? Thanks
I put this on my 2007.5 6.7, and I can tell you this it made a real difference in mine. I don't understand how he's saying that he's only running 1lb of boost, he needs to add a guage set up, mine pushes close to 30lb when you get on it, and stays consistent at 4-5lb while cruising until you get on the throttle. It will make a difference in the fact if the heater grid bolt comes loose and ends up in your engine then your out around $15,000 for a new motor.
The 1psi is at low load cruise. WFO it runs about 30psi as you would expect. If you're running a stock, emissions legal truck like I am, the intake is not your restriction. The Cat and DPF is your restriction so whatever you do on the inlet won't make much if any difference in total. That was shown by the Dragy results from the previous video I did on this that showed it was effectively the same before and after. Thanks!
