I have to say I cringed a bit when you went to town on those knots. And was blown away by the fact that there was no damage to the aurora at all. Given the angles and different grinds. This is still very impressive. I very much enjoy your videos and respect your opinion in knife matters. Also to watch you bone out a deer is great it is obvious you know where each muscle is and the proper technique to retrieve it. I was a butcher for 12 years and know a bit about bone and muscle structure in animals and there is only one way to learn that and that is to do it over and over again. Excellent skill. Thanks very much for all you share.
Thank you for doing these videos. They really are beneficial in many ways. Especially for those looking at knives to purchase. The knives aren't cheap and your videos and input are very informative
I am almost sure my most dependable steel is 3V. I always want to reconfirm my belief. Sof steels like 12C27 are good. Hard but brittle steels like D2 are okay. Restoration of the both are no problem to me having very coarse to very fine quality stones. Once 3V takes its proper geometry, it never needs restoration, and it seems great to me. What it needs is just white compound stropping even after hard use. By the way my particular Mechanix gloves are nice to hold knife handles. Thanks.
Thank you very much for spending the money and the time to experiment with these knives. I have learned so much and would buy you a beer for your effort if I could. Possibly BR got the perfect geometry for 3v on this knife. I hope when I get mine it comes with the same geometry. Best John
'This is my knife life'. Ha! Priceless! I find - as always - your interest and passion for knives refreshing and, um, somehow familiar... Although I own neither of these particular knives, I certainly relate to playing with sharp 'toys' in the garage... Interesting video. Thanks for sharing.
I don't know how I missed this video! Glad to see you got an Aurora. I sold my 3V to try other knives and just picked it up again in A2. 3V is better, specially the tip! But A2 strops us easier of course. Great to hear your thoughts!
Excellent test, Virtuovice. Clearly the Aurora took 1/3rd of the effort out of your work on the thicker cross-cut. This was the first time I'd seen anyone test a knife using a cross-cut and it was a telling test.
I really like how versatile the Aurora is, infact I was close to purchasing it, but i chose the S1 instead. At last a realistic knife abuse video - no battoning through bricks and punching through car bonnets and oil drums -.-'. Thanks
You are correct. But, when testing bite.. against the grain as he has done will give you a good indication of bite. Of course, as you so stated, in the field you would use the packsaw
I guess it might help to explain my reasoning as to why i chose the S1 over the aurora - Where i live, the most abundant wood is Acacia, which grows twisted and has many knots and extremely resilient fibres. The S1 is a thicker blade, and the fact that its laminated VG10 as opposed to solid VG10 in the WM1 offers (in my mind) more flexibility to the blade. The S1 also retains a blade height thats not too high, and not too low - in my mind, the s1 is the perfect knife for me :)
If they have the same apex angle, Scandi geometry has more metal behind the apex and is tougher IMO. But this Camper's apex angle was 22 degrees or so while Aurora's angle is 28 degrees or so. It was not a fair comparison as you say. I just wanted to say Aurora has the best geometry ever for their 3V steel, and Camper needs slight convexing or micro beveling after getting rid of its V micro bevel. I mixed the two issues in a single video and gave you some confusion. Thanks.
Bark River often make a large angle to their 3V knives. So I need to shallow down its geometry in almost all cases to satisfy my needs. I know their 3V holds up in my home made small angle for any of my wood and hunting jobs. I like A2 and 3V steel from Bark River very much. I like Japanese blue paper steel very much too. They are all hard and tough, and satisfy my needs. Thanks.
I made the assymmetrical grind to some of my knives, Gunny 3V, Canadian 3V, and Mora Black. Their left side bevel is almost flat from a high line while their right side is convex. This grind makes even thinner and curlier feathers. But it is a bit prone to going left during batoning. It is give and take, and I currently don't make it positively. It is kind of difficult sometimes for the asymmetrical ground edge to make very thin wood sticks which follow feathersticks to make fire easily. Thanks.
The compass rose on a Bark River knife is meant to indicate that Bark River intends that particular design primarily for bushcraft use. I also have one on my Golok.
Hello Dr Waco, thank you for your knife videos, always very much full of info. Can you please advise where you purchased your Bark River Aurora in 3V from ? Also, please advise where you purchase your Chosera Water stones from ? Online or actual store in Japan ? Cheers and Happy Camping !
Perhaps a ffg with a convex edge was what I meant. I find the amount of steel removal in scandi sharpening to be more than any other grind barring the ffg. However the results when the blade hits the wood makes it all worth it. Do you prefer convex on game and scandi on wood?
Among all kinds of Bark River knives Aurora especially in CPM-3V is the most versatile and easiest to be used, I think. I love Aurora so much. I don't need Bravo-1 anymore.
I suspect Spyderco Bushcraft has a V micro bevel out of the box. I personally don't like O1 because it is on a soft side. And I need a versatile handle to a 4 inch blade for my game dressing. Your Puma knife seems to be hollow grind. It won't have wood cutting potential but is only for slicing like game dressing. Woods knives should be Scandi grind or shallow convex grind IMO. Thanks.
Thats great. Busse knives does something like that. I believe they use a flat on one side and a convex on the other. Do you have to switch hands for game? Thanks so much for answering all my questions.
D2 chips in a paper edge where A2 or O1 bends. D2 needs around 30 degrees obviously never to take chipping. Then D2 will make a great edge. But we will never be able to get rid of our anxiety that it might chip. I am confident that 3V never chips nor bends in our regular hard use in 30 degrees. Thanks.
Wako I am looking for your video where you put a different grind on each side and the knife went through wood extremely quick, like a laser beam. I think it was an A2 Gunny. Would that be correct?
Dr. Wako, Curiously, what kind of performance would you expect from such bushcrafting exercises if you left the 120/220 finish from the stone, and then stropped with BR Black compound only? Kind regards, TIA
Do you own a Spyderco Bushcraft? Just wondering your opinion on that knife. Also, I have a Puma stag bowie 116396. It slices great as its a hunting knife but it has a 30 degree grind which does not allow it to shave wood at all. Its horrible with wood. Would you advise I attempt to lower the grind angle to possibly achieve a more well rounded woods knife?
My home made grind is very shallow convex on the left side to whittle wood for feathersticking and regular convex on the right side to slide on bones for game dressing. I don't like the real zero Scandi grind because it bites wood too deep and bites bones. Thanks.
Steel being soft has all to do with the temper. 01 is a tool steel and can be hardened to an extremely high RC. 52100 ball bearing steel at 50 RC is softer than 01 at 57RC and so on. To each his own brother. What kind of blade do you usually prefer?
Virtuo San, just when I thought I'd made my mind up on buying the Enzo Camper D2, you go and prove the brittle nature of D2 tool steel! Then go and throw the Aurora in the mix for good measure! Which seems to have outstanding blade geometry and edge retention values. Though I suspect the B.R. Aurora to be at least twice the price or the Enzo, maybe as much as nearly three times the price here in UK? Be interested to see if the Enzo edge holds better after the slight re-profile? Regards, Dazza.
No. I hold a wood stick with my left hand and use only the left side bevel to make a featherstick. I twist the edge clockwise and use only the right side bevel to remove muscles from bones. I am righty. Thanks.
Wako you are searching for a reckoning....looking for answers....if I didn't know what you are looking for...I would ask Have YOU gone MAD!? Awesome to watch as always. How is the handle in those gloves? Do you lose touch? Do you feel everything?
Wako, do you think it's better to purchase bark river regular aurora or scandi grind aurora? They are accepting preorders for cru-wear in both grinds, do you recommend to choose regular convex grind or scandi (scandivex) ? Also, do you recommend 3v or cruwear? Thank you. Also
Hello, I have some experience of their Scandi-convex grind. Its apex angle looks very large over 40 degrees because of its grind lowness and strong convex curve, so it cannot bite deep. So I highly recommend their standard convex grind whose apex angle looks like under 30 degrees which is still tough enough. The Cru-wear looks like having high hardness over HRC61 while the 3V is 59~60 which is tougher. brkgallery.com/2012/album01/Knife_Steel_Chart_with_20CV_and_Elmax_and_Cru_Wear
I didn't know Spyderco Bushcraft doesn't have a micro bevel. I had a prejudice to Spyderco. I don't like the full flat grind because it is the toughest to sharpen and the most difficult to make a keen edge on. For my utility knives I prefer hollow grind since it is very easy to sharpen. I sometimes sharpen my fruit cutting folding knife, Spyderco H1 Pacific Salt. H1 is not so durable. Its hollow bevel is easy to me. For outdoor knives I prefer Scandi and convex grind generally speaking. Thanks.
I have owned the Spydie for about 8 months. Mine has never had a micro bevel on it. As far as comfort in carving, the Spyderco is top notch. Not sure how the scandi would work for you on game. Every carving grip is a pleasure and has yet to create a hot spot. Yes the Puma is a hollow grind. I have seen some people do pretty amazing woodwork with a hollow grind. I would rather have the scandi as well or convex. How do you feel about a ffg blade. Some guys swear they are the ultimate in utility.
On my knife by the spine isnt flat like yours. Convex is 100% on yours its flat then transitions into convex. Did they change the style? Also the bottom of my handles are sharp
Interesting point, wasn't aware of different D2 steels? Anyway, on reflection, I'm still inclined think the Enzo Camper is a good knife for the price. The Aurora is twice the price here in UK, but is it twice the knife? In the real world I think not! If money isn't a problem, buy an Aurora or two! I think the Enzo would be a good knife in the £100 bracket and perform well under 'normal' use. Regards Dazza.
D2 is known to be brittle and with that paper thin edge it's (or any steel) not appropriate for heavy batoning. I'm impressed with the 3V Aurora but still wouldn't use it for that kind of batoning. I carry a large and a small knife and sometimes an axe. I reserve my small knife for delicate tasks including small batoning for kindling. If in a complete survival situation, then you must use what you have and in this case you'd be better off with the Aurora. I'm sticking with 01 Enzos.
I prefer Aurora too. All day long. But it doesn’t make me not seeing you were bias during the test in the favour of Aurora. Specially on first wood cutting test, you could use way more force on Enzo because of its handle design. Enzo could win the cutting test.
Ha. I could say the same about your first comment. But apparently it was a joke that went over my head. Very original defense btw "Dude it was just a joke!" lol And it depends on the party of course. I feel out of place in clubs. I'd rather sit around a camp fire with a couple musicians and some very strong marijuana But if you called me a dick you'd probably be right. I'm not in a good mood this morning so I probably shouldn't be commenting on youtube I hope you have a nice day
Which is why he says this is "abuse." Take it easy man. His methods teach us the clear differences between different grinds and steels. He isn't teaching us how to use knives.
