Cleaned my HK with a garden hose after a sandy excercise. I snaked it to remove the water but borecam still showed some drops. It rusted a little but I shot it clean.
If you use heavy duty gloves and boiling water it A. Opens up the pours in the metal more getting more gunk out and B. It's hot enough to evaporate cuz the metal is so hot. You still oil it when done.
At least the corrosion wasn't real deep into the bore, but whoever didn't at least run a patch with some oil on it before shipping needs to have their knuckles cracked with a ruler as a reminder to not do stupid things.
An important thing to know about Evapo-Rust is that the parts should be COMPLETELY submerged. If not, you will have etching at the air/fluid interface.
Help please. I have a civil war gun with a significant case of rust inside the bore. I can’t submerge the barrel as that would allow the Evaporust to attack the “patina” on the outside that I don’t want to effect. I was going to remove the barrel from the stock and then fill the barrel with Evaporust and stand it in the corner and let it sit overnight. I’m concerned that I will get etching as you mention at the level of the Evaporust near the muzzle even if I completely fill it?
@@Whitpusmc, the etching happens as a line along where the Evapo-Rust meets the air. It's a thin line, not a wide band. If the barrel is completely filled, it could leave a line right at the crown. Sounds as if you have to choose the patina or try a different method of cleaning the barrel. BTW, I don't think one night of soaking would do much for "significant" rust. It also sounds fiddly to do it that way.
@@ShawnD1027 Well it was what was recommended by a gunsmith with familiarity with BP guns. What about Evaporust gel? The directions (yes I read them) say to leave on for an hour or two them neutralize with water. I was thinking about using the gel up to the very crown and being able to better control the line where the rust removal ends. I was also intending to try for a shorter period of time say a half hour and judge the effects and repeat in half hour increments to better get just the effect desired. The lands and grooves are visible but have a thin layer of rust that needs to be removed.
@@Whitpusmc, I have no experience with the gel. My reply was based on my experience with moderate rust and your initial description of "significant case of rust." Now you're saying "thin layer of rust," so maybe a shorter duration would work. Sorry I can't be of any more help.
Wow! That is amazing. Great save on the barrel. Thank you for the great content. Always love your videos. Great teachers create great minds. You mu friend are a great teacher. Be safe.
With all due respect, this does not look like rust to me. This looks like gunk on top of the surface of the inside of the bore. The bore also looks chrome-lined (which I would expect for a high-quality AR barrel) which should prevent rusting.
rinse with water, scrub with nylon. Evaporust pulls the oxidation off the surface and suspends it in a black, mucus like substance. You need to get all that shit off before you start attacking fouling.
An hour or so is most I ever left ammonia bore cleaners in. There are some very good non-ammonia copper cleaning cleaners out there that you can leave in any length of time. i use Boretech but there are others.
what borescope camera are you using? I also have a hawkeye borescope but I find their accessories prices way out of line with the quality they give you. FYI if you have the normal hawkeye flashlight (minimag light source) you can get a Maglite 226-Lumen LED Flashlight IP2PLPH and use the same top (its equivalent to their "LED" light). big upgrade small price.
Back in the 1980's, when surplus 762x39 had corrosive primers, water cleaning my AK was the standard....but I spent several minutes with my air compressor drying it. Then sprayed it with RemOil, or Tri-Flow. Dot 3 Brake Fluid will break down bore rust. I saved an old Marlin Goose Gun by putting rubber cork in the muzzle, and filled the bore with brake fluid, and let stand in the corner a year and a half. Rust swabbed out.
What is it about brass cleaning brushes that you don't like? That's what we used alot during basic training in the Army. Not being a jerk, just asking.
I always liked running an oil soaked mop through my barrels after cleaning. Something I picked up from my dad years ago. Especially if going into storage. Just don't go crazy. A patch to clear out excess is a good idea.
that is definitely the color of fresh rust, the iron hydroxide means it is still reacting so a good clean of that surface layer was the perfect fix. the hardcore navy people can read rust better than me but that is one thing that stuck with me when i had a conversation with some experienced seamen
Compared to my R700 barrel, this barrel looks amazing. I bought the R700 used, and it still shoots 0.8 MOA at 800 yards. Im always amazed at how well a gun will shoot even with "issues" inside a barrel. We've been taught that a barrel has to be perfect for a rifle to be accurate and that's simply not true. All depends on twist rate, jump off the lands, bullet selection, powder, primer, and 20 other things that havent got a thing to do with the barrel perfection. Great video! Thank you for sharing all this wonderful info and experience with us. I am quite jealous of all the gunsmithing tools you own though. Even though I am an amateur gunsmith, I still feel I need all the best tools.
Funny comment I feel the same ain’t even got my first deer yet 8,000$ in on equipment so far for an airgun channel and still about a year out bc of wanting the best stuff lol
If you "REALLY" want to clean an AR platform down to bare metal and cleaner than it's ever been just use boiling water. Take the rifle apart and submerge in boiling water. Using coat hangers to create hooks to hang the parts on we would submerge the rifle parts in a metal trash can with a submerging heater to boil the water. A raging vigorous boil is best. When the parts come out of the boiling water they are so hot they dry themselves in just a few moments. Then we dipped all the parts in CLP and wiped them down. Easy peasy. It's amazing what boiling hot water will clean.
Holy crap I did not expect that barrel to be that clean from cleaning that that is some thorough work. Seems like that rust remover works pretty well too.
Since this needs to be soaked for 12 hours, how would you recommend some very light rust in a model 70? I’ve tried nylon brush, bore tech eliminator, and slip 2000 oil.
How did the evaporust not eat away at the outside finish ?? 🤔 as evaporust will remove all finishes as well I’ve seen. Maybe I’m wrong and missed something lol
damn man it takes some unbelievable level of abuse to do that to any barrel but especially an FN barrel, wow, if you let an FM barrel get that bad you don’t deserve to own firearms
So I bought wipeout and accelerator about 4 months ago. The crap that came out of each weapon after sitting for 12hrs was amazing. I'll never use anything else again.
Hope a few folks can maximize the life spans of their barrels thanks to this info. Great topic & nice work! 👍 *(Anyone who 👎 this video is a douchebag! 👈😉)
@School of the American Rifle This is probably a non-issue overly nit picky thing, but if you were trying to build the best barrel possible, would you try to drill the gas port directly through a land or a groove so it flow gas more evenly? I know thats not typically considered, but if you had a blank and could clock the gas port to be specifically where you want it, would that be advantageous, even if only a small amount?
What do you recommend? I’m removing 3 rocksetted warcomps soon. I have slip2000 ewl and gun lube. Lucas clp. Hoppes #9 and bore cleaner. Wipe out foaming bore cleaner.. I was planning on just using the wipe out because it says “wipe out contains a powerful anti-corrosive that prevents rust” you think that would be good?
I think the best penetrating lube going is kroil or silikroil for starters after methanol rinse to flash off H2O then use whatever lube you like , at least you know the water is gone and the kroil will go into the pores of the metal .
@@Captainpaulbtyhtr You're wasting your time. The water is not penetrating the threads of your muzzle device, and it's certainly not reaching the rocksett to begin breaking the adhesive. A 3-4 foot breaker bar is all you need. MAYBE torch the muzzle device to flex the material a bit before but it really doesn't matter much. Now after you remove your muzzle device, if you'd like to remove the rocksett, water and a brush can be used. But it doesn't have to be boiling.
I’ve had success boiling for 15 minutes , then warming with propane a bit ( not much ) then dipping the muzzle device in cold water , then wrench , never used a wrench longer than 12”
Its midnight and I have to get up early to beat rush for reloading supplies!! So I am so mad at you for this addictive content you are forcing me to watch!! BTW my PSA 300BLK pistol will arrive at my FFL this week. Hope it shoots as well as my Wilson Combat? Who knows
I picked up some Evaporust today and tried out on some T wrenchs, WOW its good stuff so far. I will be able to reblack them wiht a black oxide kit I got and they will look new.
It will help, but if the chrome lining has been damaged or has some thin spots you can have things rust through it. See old cars with chrome bumpers for an example.
Long time rifle competitor here. I had wanted a bore scope for years but a combination of several of my friends having scopes I could borrow and the $1000+ price at the time for a "cheap" one kept me from "pulling the trigger". A couple of years ago, I bought a digital borescope from Teslong for about $75 and never looked back. It has a USB out put. The optical quality is better than the pure optical ones I used 20 years ago.
Cool to hear somebody else say you can clean a gun with water. I've used soap and water many a times to clean a gun without issue. An old Cuban guy taught me that you could and just told me to make sure and gently heat it for a short time to drive out any moisture to prevent rust and then lube it. So even now I still wash them in hot soapy water and rinse with hot water and then sometimes chuck them in the oven on low heat (the ones that I can fit in there) minus the plastic stuff. Never had any rust issues at all. Still will use solvents once in awhile but prefer the hot water as it's cheaper that way.
There is a whole industry of part cleaning machines and you'll always find water+detergent at some stage. It's not like carbon steel falls apart if it's soaked in water immediately. If they dry completely and oiled afterwards it's just like it was cleaned in the factory.
With what would the rust react with besides more oxygen if the temperature is high enough? You need some acid. Rust removal with 80% phosphoric acid works well, 1:1 with water and wait 48 hours. Rinse off thoroughly and dry, followed with oil or coatings.
Never used that product, looks like it works really good. I have never tried this unless it was a stainless anything, clr does a great job, you can get it at the grocery store and I do use it to remove carbon out of all my barrels. Any feedback you got is welcomed and really appreciated! Thanks for the info have a good weekend!
Thanks for the video!! I would like to see a video a video comparison with a similar barrel that had 30 rounds fired through it to blow out the corrosion Thanks again you do really great work I've learned a ton
@@tactical-bucket I have others configured the same way with Colt Upper & Barrel with codes. They were corroded too but the fn barrel was the most severe.
