This myth sounds the same to me as the "Dry fire can hurt your gun" What could a brass brush do for damage that 150 grains of lead and copper moving 3000 fps under intense pressures and heat from an explosion in the chamber not cause?
The dry fire paranoia is so pervasive, a friend of mine spent 20 minutes looking for his snap cap so he could fire his .22 before takedown when I was at his house.... same as this Myth in the video, don't sit and dry fire your gun all day but if you need to dry fire it once or twice a year to release the action, than dry fire it. It's going to hurt nothing
@@TerminalM193 Water or Water with some simple green extreme, not the regular kind. This type won't harm aluminum parts. The main thing is the water reacting with the ammonia, the bit of SG Extreme is just a degreaser that is often used for aeroplanes. Now you got a wet barrel but don't freak out. Machine parts get washed & degreased by any gunsmith in a washing station with water and a degreaser. First you get rid of most of the remaining water with pressurized air (wear goggles cause tiny metal parts flying around should be separate from eyeballs). There is still humidity in there so some warmth is needed. A heatgun will do the trick, an adapter to get all the hot air in the barrel is helpful but not necessary. Now you got a copper free, degreased and bone dry barrel. Draw an oil-patch through the bore (Don't forget it!) and you're done. That is mostly used by bench rest shooters with expensive stainless steel barrels. You can find further guides online how concentrated they want the ammonia solution and so on.
You guys have stepped into a minefield! When I used to compete in various long range matches and .22 competition we had guys that wanted their bore prestige and guys that would shoot you in if you came near their gun with a bore rod (that’s not literal to any Karen that sees it). My take is that I clean every bore, but only when dirty and generally with Bore Snakes. I occasionally loan guns to very good friends under the condition that they will not clean them on any way, shape or form. I’m a bit OCD about some things and cleaning my guns are one of them. When I learned how to build a benchrest or tactical precisions gun from guys like Thomas “Speedy” Gonzales I followed his breaking and cleaning religiously, but then back when I was in the Army, 1980s and 90s we used the sectional steel rod on M16s and M4s without any problems. It really just depends upon the gun. I still shoot a good bit of Blackpowder and clean those like it’s a religious experience. So basically I haven’t added anything, I’ve just had too much coffee this morning. 😎
You added a great couple of anecdotes, and I'm glad to see the black powder community chiming in. I just left a comment about the corrosive salts in some surplus ammo, and referenced the relatively MASSIVE quantity of rust-inducing junk you guys have to deal with. It's not even close to morning as I type this, but I'm still drinking coffee. I've nearly killed an entire 10-cup pot today... I think I have a problem. Cheers!
Of course it won’t ! The barrel steel (all of them regardless) is so so hard - the bronze brush for normal scrubbing is soft, of course it won’t harm it. I am a machinist by trade and laugh at all the BS thats around these days- all to make money out of people. Telling them that it’s necessary to do this, do that, use this cleaner, using this chemical - what a load of crap. However, if its cleaned incorrectly or with a steel brush (whole different ball game) or cleaning at an angle scratching or damaging with the cleaning rod for instance of course wear is possible. Otherwise clean away, go and shoot and dont worry about all the “damage” cleaning creates! I challenge anyone to use a bronze brush in a barrel up and down thousands of times or as many times as you want to see any wear in that barrel? It may be tens of thousands of an inch after such an episode -but you will wear of probably hundreds of cleaning brushes and yourself doing it!
I used to use Boresnakes. Now i just run Wet Patches followed by dry patches until the barrel is dry. Ive realized a Spotless Clean barrel shoots like shit so i dont need my barrels to be Spotless anymore. Just run a wet patch, let it soak in, followed by dry patches until they come out clean. I personally feel all these new age Barrel Cleaning solvents and Products are a whole lot of marketing and nothing else.
No bore isn't damaged or worn by brass brushes. With solvent removal of existing copper & lead from bullets makes rifle bore clean and shinny, with light coat of oil will extend bore life
Tim at military arms channel just came out with video on this topic. He says not to over clean and only use nylon brush. I think he meant mostly for precision guns though. Chad at school of the american rifle says not to use brass brush unless very dirty. And not to scrape at bcg with metal. It will affect tolerances eventually.
To turn in our M4s and M16s all we had were brass brushes and told to scrape the carbon off. I think there is no one right way to clean but the key is to not get carried away.
@@onpsxmember I had that 17 years ago on both eyes. Left is still good, right slightly nearsighted again. I’m debating if I want the right done again, assuming it’s even doable.
I use Otis pull cord cleaning kits for all my guns ..One pass with the brass brush. One pass with a wet mop. One pass with a wet patch.. dry patches until they come out clean. Followed by one last wet patch for storage. I use Slip 2000 lube and have cleaned all my firearms this way since I started collecting guns a few years back.. still no rust or anything like that. However I do keep my guns in a humidity controlled gun safe so rust/moisture corrosion is non existent for me. Also if I haven’t shot one of my guns for about 6 months I take it out and give it a wipe down and lite coat of oil just for storage purposes My takeaway from cleaning guns is this. Everyone has a method or special order to how they do it. Everyone cleans guns differently. Using different solvents/oils ect. Just find something that works for you. Any good CLP will work just fine. Clean what’s dirty. Throw a little oil on it. Boom done
I appreciate their cautionary word on ammonia-based solvents, that's a very important point to consider with anything made of ferrous metals (might tarnish brass as well). I simply wish they had mentioned ammunition with corrosive primers, a.k.a. that sweet sweet surplus light ball. Bores should be cleaned every time one fires that stuff, as it leaves corrosive salts behind- primarily ammonia, go figure. I frequently use plain old boiling water to dissolve and flush out salts, same as the black powder guys do. Although their entire powder charge is corrosive, not just the primer! If If I'm lazy, I have a couple of c.l.p./'all-in-one' cleaners like Ballistol that are alkaline enough to prevent corrosion on their own. P.S. I should have clarified that not all surplus is corrosive, so it definitely pays to do some research on what you've got when acquiring new old ammo!
As for me I like to clean and inspect each firearm after each use since I don't know when I will be shooting that firearm again. I would rather store it and know that it has been cleaned and lubricated prior to putting it away.
1) Soak my barrel real good with hoppe's 9, let it sit for 10 minutes. 2) Run a brass brush through the barrel a few times or more toward the muzzle, depending on how many rounds. 3) Run cotton patches soaked in balistol through it until patch comes out clean. Done.
@@adammathers4879 Brass and bronze CAN be the same thing. Bronze usually refers specifically to "red" brass which is 83% copper by volume. Brass can be either red brass or "yellow" brass (or other), which is 51% copper by volume (using zinc as the primary replacement metal in the alloy). Thus, all bronze is brass, but not all brass is bronze. At least this is true in the plumbing world...I left out all the forms of bronze that can vary (silica bronze FE). Bronze and brass both have a multitude of variations. Neither term is specific in and of itself. Definitions and recipes for both alloys are innumerable....
I started cleaning my bp guns with Ballistol. After a while, I added in a few modern guns to see how they did. Now, all my firearms are cleaned only with it. If it’s good for Hickock45 and the German Army in the trenches of WWI, it’s good now. Non toxic, but stinks. I use a carbon fiber cleaning rod with brass jags. Brass brush occasionally. T-shirt squares.
I use a SNAKE to clean my VARIOUS pistols, rifles, 22lr and centerfire. But I MOSTLY shoot 22lr pistols and rifles because there are SO MANY NEAT ONES from through the years of their manufacturing. PLUS there is a SIGNIFICANT MONETARY ADVANTAGE.😯😉😁. They are GREAT for TRAINING the inexperienced SHOOTER be they young, old, male or female.😉😁
Off of the bore, I have worked on more guns ruined by either overly zealous disassembly or neglect than I have shooting. Yes, I've seen a few guns shot to pieces in my time, but not many.
Shooting through a barrel gives you three fouling materials: 1- copper 2- lead 3- carbon Carbon attract moisture and leads to corrosion. Lead accumulates in your rifling, decreasing accuracy. Both can be potentially dangerous. A little of copper is actually good for accuracy because it fills some microscopic imperfections on the barrel steel. I used to remove every last vestige of copper using solvents, before learning that I could damage the steel with it. The secret of cleaning a barrel is getting rid of n°2 and 3 and leaving a little of the n°1, without damaging the steel.
Um, not exactly, but the end result is correct. Carbon is not hygroscopic, nor can it be dissolved in water and both of the oxides of carbon are gaseous. Lead-oxide and cuperic oxide are both abrasive. Passing something over that with high pressure and speed will erode (as compared to corrode) the underlaying substrate. It will definitely damage the barrel given enough abuse. Pure copper, left exposed to air, will oxidize as evidenced by the gigantic bronze statue in NY Harbor. Unless you're frequently shooting cast lead bullets in your rifle, you're not likely to have any significant lead fouling, unlike 22LR where you have nothing but lead fouling.
I use big cotton bore swabs & a Otis Rip Cord. I use Slip 2000 degreaser, cleaner or Simple Green(if short on cleaner). Then I run a few swabs of gun oil, Slip 2000 EWL or a lubricant. I'd say a decent non toxic, CLP should do fine. I'd add older ammonia or harsh fume 🤭 bore solvents are not really required in 2021.
@@Lacquerhead-TX by “carbon” I meant gunpowder. Even though smokeless gunpowder does not attract moisture as black powder, it is hygroscopic, specially if it’s a single-base nitrocellulose propellant. Interesting point about erosion, never heard of it happening to barrels. I’ll research about it. I bought an used .38 carbine and the accuracy was pretty bad. Sure enough, a bore scope showed me a lot of lead fouling (I’m guessing the previous owner had the habit of shooting lead Bullets going too fast). It was probably the only time I used a iron brush on any barrel. The gains in accuracy were great though.
@@VincitOmniaVeritas7 Next time, don't use steel. Find a 99.99% pure copper pot scrubber. You can buy them. I wrapped the copper scrub material around a nylon bore brush. It's difficult to push through the bore, but it worked. A little Hoppes helped as well. Used 10/22 allegedly owned by a police officer. And yes, fired cheap, translate bulk, Remington Thunderbolts. Never again. I got a piece lead out about 1 1/2 inches long, 1/8 inch wide or more, and 1/64 inch thick near the chamber.
This made me comfort a lil. I bought a brand new upper and went to go clean to make sure for no metal debris, I went in and out about 8 to 9 times and the last time it was stiff, and got stuck. I noticed it scuffed the paint off of my stainless rod, I guess each time. Now I’m worried I ruined my new barrel, and my dumb a** even went in from the crown side. So I got a small Cotten cloth with a lil oil, and ran through one more time and called it quits. Should I be worried? Don’t have on me too much, I’ve been around guns my whole life but starting to get into it a lil more. I’m just scared I mess the crowning or rifling up in my brand new barrel and upper that I paid a pretty penny for.
I just have S&W pistols, semi autos and one revolver. I have the kit with brass brushes. The problem seems to be the devices that hold the cloth are a pain. So I use the brush and wrap the cloth patch around the brush in the same direction as I rotate it when cleaning. It stays in place well. Two times very wet with solvent and allow to soak, the use new patches as required until clean. Hoppe`s #9 gun bore to start. #9 oil if next use is soon. CLP leaves a semi permanent protection. for longer storage. I used it on a tool that got wet and rusted and it has stayed rust free two years now. I have a long "string type" I used for 177 cal pellet gun. Should work for 22 also. Food vacuum storage are good for ammo and pistols/revolvers that see infrequent use. If you can disassemble a long gun, it should work for that also.
I heard hoppes 9 has a small amount of ammonia. But, also includes a chemical that neutralizes the corrosion aspect. Some people have used hoppes 50+ years.
Yes Hoppe's does use some ammonia in their solvent. I wouldn't worry too much about it. If you are just go on to Amazon and order break free CLP. Ammonia free.
Regular Hoppe's, no. But their copper remover does. Just about every thing labeled specifically as a copper remover has ammonia in it. Also Shooters Choice and Tipton solvents have a little ammonia in them, and maybe Bore Tech too, but I'm not sure on that one. Shooter's Choice is my favorite bore solvent outside of MPro-7 which I use most of the time. I haven't had any issues as a result of using it other than it will eat up a bronze brush after a few cleaning sessions. Sweet's 7.62 Copper Remover is an ammonia based gel that you don't let sit in your barrel for too long. After using Sweet's or any other copper-specific solvent, it's a good idea to flush some hot water through the bore or clean it out with MPro-7.
Bores snakes are game changers. Especially for those quick, after the range jobs. I only have one precision rifle and I am more careful with that one. But with the milsurps, ARs & shotguns and revolvers I use MC-7 and boresnakes.
Hopps 9 does NOT have ammonia in it! That’s nuts, it’s been cleaning barrels for over 100 years by literally every gun owner in America and has NEVER been accused of etching a barrel.
Thank you for the video! I always clean my 22 after shooting, with just hoppes 9 bore Cleaner and a jag, and finish it off with a light application of 9 oil on a patch. 👍nothing fancy but for a stainless barreled 22 it gets it spotless. 😀👍
With the AK I rinse the barrel out with pure ammonia as I run dirty cheap surplus ammo and oil it up with some sythetic 10W-30. I shoot every weekend and clean it about 3-4 times a year. Rifling looks awesome still after many rounds and decades of issued brushes. The only difference is back in the 1980s sythetic was not a thing so I used regular 10W-30. 40 years of regular use out of a rifle that was old when I got it speaks volumes. 5-6 inch groups at 100 yards with optics. I'm happy with it.
Thanks for the great information. Here lately I've been keeping it simple. I use Ballistol as my solvent then clean with a bore snake followed by a patch around the brush of the bore snake. Seems to get the job done in a way that doesn't damage the barrel. I used to have a fiberglass rod that ran smoothly through the bore with a brush or patch on the end.
I like Ballistol 🇩🇪 but for barrels, cleaning I use a gun oil or lube about 80-90% of the time. Slip 2000 EWL or Froglube Extreme. 🐸 As time goes by I lean more towards the Slip 2000 line of gun care items. No odors, no fumes. 🤭
Excellent video! A request please. My knowledge base on nitride coated barrels is not what I would like it to be. I am familiar with the coating, but not with its performance inside barrels. Accuracy, lifespan, does it resist barrel burners like the 220 swift, etc. Please educate a gray haired old guy on this new fangled stuff.
Brian Moore Nitride is just a brand name like Tenifer or Melonite. This type of coating is a hard outer shell over the steel called nitro carburizing. It makes the steel or in some cases heat treated MIM (metal injection molding) parts harder than it might be otherwise and it resists corrosion and wear. Chrome lining does the same sort of thing but chrome allows for a slicker surface so there is less fouling. If say you have a Ackley Improved or AI rifle that is a barrel burner because of the hot loads it is made to shoot then a bull or heavy barrel (slows heat transfer by thickness) combined with nitro carburizing or properly chrome lined should extend the life of the bore. But being an AI hot caliber assuming that AI loads are used instead of standard loads, it will still have much less life than standard calibers. Some shooters don't go to the extra trouble and expense so when the barrel wears out they just replace it and it might be cheaper that way in the long run.
Lightly clean it when first received to ensure manufacturing didn't miss anything, then clean on occasion, depending on usage... Lube is way more important
I like ammonia based Sweets 762! It dissolves copper buildup really quick and loosen tough carbon fouling. So 2x patches Sweets (1 patch straight thru to remove carbon then 1 patch back & forth 10x) comes out black & green. Dry patch, then 1-2 patches Hoppes 9 back & forth 10x gets the Sweets out. Ammonia will damage a barrel so you have to get it out but it works great if used properly. Hoppes 9 is good on carbon & copper but it needs to sit awhile so let soak an hour then run clean patches through. When you think your barrel is clean it is not! Get a cheap borescope to see for sure, you can’t see crap from the end of the barrel. You’ll lean more about cleaning, what works and what’s snake oil in 10 minutes with a borescope than decades of guessing by looking down the chamber.. I know from experience..
My favorite way to destroy a barrel is to not clean it, store it in a humid environment so that the inside of the barrel gets a light coating of rust, then go shoot it to remove the rust. Repeat until there are no lands left.
The key is using the right tool for the job. Sure a steel rod poorly used can damage a bore so don't do that, use a bore snake instead. With the bore snakes in your shooting box you really don't need to use a steel rod unless you have some serious fouling. You can avoid the steel rod entirely too, just get carbon fiber rods instead _ that's what I have done. For most shooters a bore snake and Hoppe's #9 are all you need for regular cleaning of .22's or any other caliber rifle, handgun or shotgun. Use the snake with #9, then wipe the weapon down and lubricate as necessary _ a final wipe and job done.
Everything you said was spot on! But I have one tip I want to add. On the bore snake, apply #9 to the front half past the brush part and apply some protective lubricant such as hoppes black gun oil to the back half behind the brush part to leave a protective coat of oil behind when you pass the snake through your bore 👍🏻
I've used Hoppes 🐍 & nomex Otis Rip Cords. Mostly on handguns. I prefer the Otis brand Ripcords. Easy, fast, simple. You can use it on ranges or a match if the gun barrel is still hot. I use CLPs like Ballistol or Slip 2000 EWL. Non toxic, no odors.
I've not used a bore snake before. Maybe you can tell me. How many passes do you do with it and doesn't it get all fouled up with the lead ,copper, powder residue that you're trying to clean out? Sort of like running a patch through twice? Then finally how do you clean the bore snake especially to get any leftover copper that I assume is stuck in the snake. Thanks,
@@DrDoom-uu3cj one to two passes is fine. When your bore snake gets really dirty you can wash it in the sink with dish soap and let air dry. Note: you can use a nylon cleaning brush to wash the brush part of the boresnake. Also it might be more effective to let snake soak for an hour in sink with soap
I clean my barrels every couple hundred rounds or so depending on the gun but you guys definitely gave me some things to consider and think about. I was never a fan of rods. I use bore snakes for all of my guns. Im gunna be watching my cleaning products a lot closer now.
@@NgJackal1990 never thought about that. When my bore snakes get so fouled up I think its hindering rather than helping I just get a new one. That may not always be an option though. Definitely food for thought. Maybe a simple green solution with a dash of isopropyl alcohol? Next time I replace one ill play with cleaning the fouled one.
So the screw together metal cleaning rods can and WILL damage the rifling in the barrels from the points where the rod connects, because often times those “lips” will flex and scrape the internals of the barrel
Another myth busted haha! I like reading comments on cleaning vids because I get a kick out of all the different methods people use. Just to be clear, the "steel" rods people speak of are usually aluminum, and absolutely will not damage a chromed/nitrited/melonited steel bore whatsoever.
Myth not busted. the softer rod acts as a carrier of residual abrasives. The most accomplished barrel maker in the world will echo that. It depends on what accuracy you want. If 2 or 3 MOA is fine, you literally never have to clean a barrel. In competition where 1/8 moa is needed, then it's time to get smart about it
I keep it simple: Spray CLP into the breech, barrel pointed down. Let it sit and drip out the muzzle for about a minute. Run a bore snake of the appropriate caliber through it. Done. Makes a huge difference with my AR-15. After a couple hundred rounds, the fouling is bad enough with my cheap ammo that it opens my group by about 4 inches or so at 450 yards. I can normally hit 8" plates using precision irons at that range shooting from the bipod or bench, but after about 200-ish rounds, without cleaning, and from a cold barrel, I can no longer hit 8" steel reliably at 450 yards. I can still hit the 18" plate at that range no problem, but cleaning really does make a difference. It's especially noticeable on my old 1943 Long Branch Enfield No.4 Mk1*. That rifle has a beautiful chrome lined barrel that cleans up real nice. I clean it about every 100 rounds (10 reloads). My AR-15 has a nitride finish, and nickel boron BCG, so stupid-easy to clean. I'm not a fan of cleaning rods. They're a hassle. Bore snakes all the way. If the first pass doesn't do the trick, give it another pass.
The only reason to be careful with a boresnake is if that thing were to break, it can be really difficult to remove from the barrel. Ask me how I know.
So how often do you recommend cleaning say an ar-15, a 1911, or a glock? What about .22lr? How many rounds would you typically fire out of any of those platforms before you all would clean them? Thanks for the great videos. Keep them coming fellas.
I clean and check my guns; Glock, Walther PDP 9mm, M&P(2), Glock 26 gen 5 after every range use. If its 50rd or 500, I want to carry or use it knowing the weapon has no crud, grit, sand, lint in it. Stop and think, if you used a firearm in a lethal force event ⚖ would you want the SAO prosecution or DA to wear 🧤 & raise your dirty, mud covered, lead caked gun to display to a jury? How does that reflect on you?
When I was in the army we cleaned our gun every time it was outside, used or not. It was same vintage as me so by the time I got it it was cleaned more often than I had showers. Still could knock down targets 200m no problem.
My ex brother-in-law used to put the cleaning rod in a drill and wrap the brush with steel wool He couldn't hit the side of a barn with anything but a shotgun
Idk it all. But Ruger for example, hammer forges all their barrels. Soo .. they will al be harder than what he mentioned. .. Buttoned rifled 22 barrels. .? (It depends lol)
You remind me of the time, back in '75 at Marine Corps OCS, when we were cleaning our M14s for Battalion CO's inspection, when the Sgt Instructor came into the barracks with a power drill to punch the bores...
In the modern USMC (2013-21) my buddies and I called that a “dog and pony show”. Maybe that’s more of that classic USMC jargon? Doesn’t matter how much sense it makes, if it’s stupid or not, even damaging or destructive, or if it really is good. Looks good, smells good…”must be good”. Dog and Pony show. Something that always annoyed me with the Marine Corps. We’d have the guys that could just about light a match with a bullet at hundreds of yards but that didn’t matter if their sleeves weren’t rolled better or if they had a dirtier hair cut than the Pizza Box shooters.
@@JT-yz4rj In my day, 'Dog and Pony Shows' referred to managed tours. This was simply one of the final inspections of the OCS course. Same general thought, though.
This video was a little too basic, but it was well understood for the new gun owners. Back in my day of shooting National competition at Camp Perry back in 1968-'69. I shot an Anschutz Match rifle built on the Model 54 action. I used a Teflon coated Parker Hale rod, with a Parker Hale Style Cleaning Jag which were hold overs from the Black Powder Days as they are designed to use Bulk Cotton that you purchase from the pharmacy store. Plus I shot Eely Red ammunition, back in those days it was a hole lot less expensive. The story were were told was that a single pass of a rod down the barrel was equal to 5 shots fired. The hardest part in cleaning a tight precision 22 caliber barrel was getting the wax out.
Personally I like to use bore snakes. It makes the cleaning process quick and simple. Of course if there is lots of fouling I will use a brass brush but otherwise the bore snake is my way to go.
I clean my .22 handgun every 300-400 rounds. I do this because it starts to have feeding issues from being to dirty. I've done this for a long time and never seemed to effect the accuracy or caused any damage.
Man I clean my pistols 9mm Springfield XD s maybe to much.i have got to go to the range in a few week, but when I was going every week or at least every other week I cleaned the. Good,, if I shot 100 or 50 rds I'd clean them..both are my EDC also.and my subcompact I clean once every 2 or 3 weeks, because of all the dust, lint.everyday crap floating àround when I'm working..is that to much???.alot of copper from the fmj at the indoor range...
One RU-vid says you can use mineral spirits( kinda like paint thinner) to clean your weapon and that most gun cleaners are overpriced marketing, any thoughts? He also says you can use mineral OIL to oil your weapons. I just got into shooting last year and have been cleaning my m&p 15-22 with those wire brushes. I’ve cleaned it maybe 10-20 times. I wonder if I wrecked it. Should I just stick with the bore snake? I don’t know what a bore guide is. I suppose I should look it up.
I have dozens and dozens of gun of all cal. From 460 down to 22. Even a full auto M-16 A1. I have never cleaned any of the barrels! What kind of damage may I be expecting to find or look for?
Yeah I spray G96 Gun Treatment spray down the barrel . Let it sit for 5 minutes and then run Breakthrough Boresnake that has Nylon brush attached. I run that down 2 or 3 times and I'm done . I have not used solvent in any barrel in years . Then again all my barrels are Nitride , QPQ or C.L.. Even all my precision barrels are NITRIDE. So I've never been concerned for 1 second..
If you're using the proper size rod for the caliber you're cleaning, the rod will self center in the bore. The purpose of a muzzle guide is to protect the Crown of the muzzle from any rubbing with the rod itself.
I think I have damaged my rifling in my 22LR Brno Mod2, I hear the steel used in those is hard. Yet to bore scope. I bought a 20cal jag because the jag for the 223, albeit 22cal, was too tight to push a small round patch. On one occasion I got it past the chamber with tremendous force. I got the 20cal jag, but it has 2 sections that are spaced apart and are knurled. I figured it’s a jag on the shelf and fit for purpose. Been using it past 12months and wanted to clean with it, the patch covers the first leading section but not enough to cover the second section of knurling. Can’t use bigger patch and jams just like the jag for 223. I now run an oiled patch through very slowly and I feel some rough glide midway through and gets smooth again by the last third or quarter of barrel towards muzzle. I’m shooting 1.5inches at 50m, with any type of ammo. I scratched a rusted rail road nail with this knurled jag and I think the sharp edges of knurling are high energy concentrated contact points that might’ve scraped the barrel. I admit no bore guide, just holding very steady and straight. I am yet to bore and see if I have damage but I think I might have. I’ll make sure all jags in future are smooth design. If I have damaged, then I think it’s this jag and I think it’ll tell me that it’s very easy to damage rifling in an instant. Guys at shop should not be selling me this jag, but that’s retail consumerism by lucrative design for you. I’ll never clean rimfire again like everyone else who does PRS rimfire shooting bug holes.
Nothing but a Boresnake and CLP down the barrel. Nylon brush and CLP on the bolt. Have had no problems for 20+ years. It took me several years to break away from the Marine indoctrination of weapon cleaning. I've never used a copper remover on any of my barrels. My oldest firearm is a 1972 lever action.
Lies n slander! Lol im still worshipping at the alter of the church of holy black powder! ROFL. Good video gents. Lol for real deal black, hot water is usually enough with a good brass brush and a proper jag. Synthetic posers generally need more, like dawn dish washing liquid from my experience.
Is it safe and sure to fire Slugs through a Barrel of a 12 g PAG fitted with 18.2 choke at the muzzle ? The chokes are unscrewable , which came with the weapon , made in India. i am from India. Please help. i am confused with different answers at times diametrically opposite surfacing in the net. Regards.
Steel is extremely resistant to ammonia corrosion. Ammonia is very effective at breaking down copper and brass but is virtually ineffective on steels. Corrosive isn’t the question, corrosive to WHAT is the question. Don’t be afraid to use ammonia based solvents. They work and they won’t ruin your rifle.
Can you guys do a talk about the myth/truth about ,...............If you load a shell directly into the chamber of a pump shotgun, and close the action, it can damage the extractors. I have been told this by several old timers. I have been doing that for decades when shooting trap, even with my Winchester 97, which is 80 years old, and never had a extractor break. Is that just a myth ?
Excellent (as usual) but I do have a question - brushing "both ways." On my Ruger Hawkeye LRT, I follow the online "advice" and ONLY run the brush breech-to-muzzle then unscrew and repeat. Probably a half dozen strokes before patch with solvent and patches until clean/dry. IS there an accuracy issue when pulling the bore brush back through the bore? Can it really affect the muzzle crown enough to worry about? I can see a bronze brush MAAAAYYYYBE having more of an effect than nylon but is it real? With my 1911, I really don't care as my practice ranges run from 5 - 10 yards.
Are these bore snakes like underwear, can you wash them clean if you shit in your britches? I like the idea of a brass jag with Hopppes 9 on a patch to soak the barrel for awhile, then push a bronze brush through it, then follow with another wet patch pushed out and removed each time, let sit, then repeat until wet patches come out clean, then push dry patch through on jag followed by a lightly coated patch with oil if my rifle will be stored. I will dry patch out oil after storage and before shooting. I spray my bronze brushes clean with either break cleaner or carb cleaner, and let air dry to get off contaminants after using each time. I use a nylon coated Dewey rod with bore guide to keep crud out of tigger assembly/breach and from possibly damaging wood stock “if applicable”. I wipe my rod clean after each pushed out patch. I always make sure to push brush all the way out of muzzle and be very careful not to drag any hard metal against crown or never use improper dia cleaning rod or multi section types that could flex and scrape barrel. This is my technique.
I was training my friend to safely shoot guns: rifles, shotguns, and handguns. I did clean all my handguns, but I've held off cleaning the rifles and shotguns for 5 months now, it's driving me up a wall, I think I'm going to clean them,. we only put less than 10 rounds through each of multiple rifles, shotguns, and handguns. But still, it bothers me.
Ammonia destroys chrome. Chrome prosses is 1: copper plating 2: nickel plating 3: chromium plating. The base copper plating is kind of like a primmer to help the nickel stick to metals.
In 40 some years of shooting I have never ruined the accuracy of a weapon by cleaning it. And this includes muzzle loaders and Marlin model 60 .22's or my lever actions that I clean from the front of the barrel. And I clean my guns every time I shoot them. I just can't put a dirty gun away lol. Especially rimfire or black powder guns because they tend to get dirty pretty fast. I will admit with a centerfire rifle or handgun they are pretty clean after shooting them and it doesn't take much to clean it but I do it anyway. I still want to do a quick cleaning and inspection after shooting a gun for my own piece of mind.
Cleaning .22s with a brush and a rod has to be done carefully since you can easily scrape the metal rod (where the brush attaches) against the barrel and, especially the crown. Brass and bronze will not damage gun steel but a steel rod might. For larger calibers this is not a problem. Does it matter running a rod through the breech end or the muzzle end? I was always taught to insert the rod through the chamber since that is the direction the round goes and it makes the brush follow the rifling better.
I just use number nine, brass brushes and palmer bristles, jags with cotton patches. You can use soap and water but that’s only if you’re going to use corrosive ammo and so on. If you buy any cheap ammo and it doesn’t specifically say (non-corrosive) then you better bet it is, you’ll need soap and water and then you need to protect your barrel and other parts from the affects of the water by using something like number nine. Ballistol-oil is becoming popular again and it was used in World War II and very adverse field conditions to maintain Mauser‘s and everything else.
We used brake cleaner and all kinda aggressive shit on our m16s on basic. Shit i would never do to my personal weapons. Still no issues, and this was 2009, probably the last class at fort sill to use m16s, so they were already thoroughly used weapons.
I am amazed to see the .22 rifle you displayed for this video. I have been looking for one of these old Mossberg/Western Fields for decades in order to replace the cracked bolt on my childhood rifle ( of the same type) that belonged to my grandfather. It's all I have of him and I want to keep the old gun shooting for my grandkids. Any ideas?
Unless I am shooting lead bullets (not including my 22's here) I rarely use anything in my bores except CLP. Every once in a blue moon will I use a copper cleaning solvent but then it's only when I notice a reduction in accuracy. Even then it's used sparingly and completely removed then a light coat of CLP until I head off to the range, which at that time the bore is dried for use. After the day of shooting when the rest of the firearm is cleaned a few patches of CLP are run down the bore and that is it.
I usually just run some CLP with a patch through on a brass rod, then just wipe it out. Might take like 3-10 patches depending on how bad it is, but I never let them sit dirty more than a day or two. Heavy cleaning's a different story
Coat hanger and an old t shirt with some CLP is all you need. You ain't going to hurt the barrel. Are you trying to group 1 inch at 1000 yards? If your barrel can, most people can't.
I've yet to see one bore scope video or photo that shows where a bronze brush has scored a barrel. It's softer metal against harder metal... which one is gonna win? Every time. Someone might be able imagine that cleaning wears out a barrel, but it's their imagination and not reality. The only steel cleaning rods I've ever seen are military. In the civilian market, the overwhelming majority of cleaning rods are aluminum (or aluminum alloy), fiberglass, or carbon fiber. The have brass tips and jigs which, again, are a softer metal than steel. The only way that cleaning wears out a barrel is if you're too lazy to clean your gun... then cleaning will definitely wear it out in short order.
I never use a metal brush of any kind anytime, simply not necessary. I push a fiber brush thru which gets most of the powder followed by my choice of 'Firearm Cleaner and Protectant, followed by a swab until I see nothing on the swab then a light protectant, then lock it up in the cabinet.
