this is the 2nd part on this cheap 1990 bass tracker bass boat that a subscriber sold to me, its been sitting for 10 years in a parking lot, and l am to bring it back to life,
Hey mustie do yourself a favor replace that water pump,been sitting to long mate it will give out when you least expect it. Stay safe from western Australia
1. Change the impeller before you take the boat out. If it's been 10 years the rubber is likely brittle and will shatter at high rpm. This is important since you don't have a temp gauge. Easy to seize your engine if it goes and you're not paying attention. 2. The float in the oil is for a low oil alarm and possibly an engine shut off, neither of which is working. Fill that top tank up with oil and it should maintain level. 3. If it were me, I'd check the gear oil in the lower unit before my first adventure. Awesome video as always, thank you.
@@rverro8478 No, the impeller itself is rubber and prone to failure. Generally want to change them every year or 2 regardless of usage. You can get kits to fully rebuild the impeller and housing for less than $60 on these engines.
Checking gear oil for water, and therefore probably a ton of fishing line wrapped around the prop shaft would be a very early step for me. Gah! Fishing line!!
thanks for the tips and insight. I am going this morning to look at a 82 18 1/2' Bayliner with less than 5 hours usage that has been sitting in a barn,
Absolutely change the impeller, and keep choke pushed in when starting, it only works when held in. Also install that new fuel line with the bulb, they also become brittle and corrode on the inside. The transducer for the fish finder will produce a snap if you touch them when they are on, if no snap, no image or bottom return.
I thought the connection had some green on it, even if not a cleaning would be a good idea, d c is such a pain, one of the worst discoveries mankind has made. I don't know what would replace it but it still sucks.
@@ct1762 must be a youngster and only seen newer junk "warm weather" 4-stroke engines. majority of all 2strokes (and others) for many years had/have a solenoid that physically shuts a choke blade or multiple, some only choked a single or two carb's, they figure once some cylinders fired the others would light off ok. long ago mercury(Kiekhaefer) actually had a stand alone throttle lever at the controls, and choke button separate from the key. you could easily free rev and high idle the engine in neutral for warm up period. Kiekhaefer played a big parts in WWII, building many other things, which also killed his outboard industry. ;)
@@throttlebottle5906 i am an outboard mechanic... 12 years. yes, i'm aware older motors used a choke solenoid and flappers, but this is a newer one with the primer. im not sure what you meant about being a youngster and only working on 4 strokes as I won't touch smaller 4 strokes, even if i could get paid !
@@ct1762 then you should know that was about the end/transition year when they had either physical choke solenoid and butterflies or the silly "start enrichment system", aka trouble making engine flooder. it could technically have either, I don't recall him pulling the choke plate cover( sound baffle), to see the carb faces or a close-up enough to tell. the clunking sounded loud enough via cam to be actual choke blades banging. that year has accelerator pump carbs, cycling the cold start throttle lever or the main control should pump fuel in.
Replace the water pump impeller that tell tale should be a lot better than it is, Even though it improved, it is probably becoming hard and worn, and yes replace all the fuel lines including the bulbs d filter
@@codycall6513 I agree but I think having the water level just an inch or so over the intake does not help - once fully submerged it will work better. Its not too big a job to replace those and you dont want it breaking up and clogging the cooling passages either. He didnt say how much he got the boat for but here in California thats an expensive motor alone!!!
You can get a really good thick plastic battery box from West Marine online then use liquid Nails to hold I'd down on the bottom and side. That's how we did it in the Keys. No hardware or holes thru the box to worry about rusting out.
I was like a lost fart yesterday afternoon, no Sunday afternoon wrenching with Mustie1, didn't know what to do with myself! Great videos, i dont think i have missed one. Happy Independence Day for yesterday from South Africa
Replace the impeller if it’s four or more years old, regardless of whether it ran or not. They get brittle and will break at high RPMs. You don’t want to get stuck on the water - cheap insurance to do it now.
The raw water impeller was a spare part that I always carried. But then I had a larger, more complex boat and carried a large number of parts and tools.
yeah, I JUST said the same thing....even just sitting for 10 years it's probably half gone hence why it took so long for water to come out the pee hole.....
@@muskokamike127 if only they didn't make em out of crappy rubber. Rubber is great but not when exposed to salt water, veggie oil, air, . . . shiiiiieet
@@dimitar4y That's because you never know if something like small rocks or sand is getting in there with the water. They're cheap anyway and simple to change.
Reason it took so long to pee a lot of water is that they have a thermostat and won't open fully until warm. Also change the impellor as they break up at hi RPM when they get old and brittle. Awesome motor as well and if you keep up the services to it they are bulletproof.
yes. yes yes.. do a water pump change out. you have the parts, it's easy to do, and its' better to do it and KNOW it's good than rely on what's there to have it break in the middle of the lake.
I agree on changing the impeller I usually do the 2-year rule in my mind every 2 years that I own a boat the impeller needs to be changed sometimes it's always easier to do a little bit of work then to do a whole lot of work when you screwed up everything plus every 2 years seems to be a good amount of time if you use the boat a lot to wear out the gear oil and also getting a leak down there in the casing contaminating the gear oil 2 years seems to be about enough time to be able to trust gaskets that are exposed to the water a lot never had any issues with the two years
@@realsonnysullivan yep! thats why its there -to tell you that the engine full of water and that the impeller is working. to maintain temp, there are thermostats and to allow max flow at high rpm there is a poppet valve on the starboard lower side. a stuck poppet will sound the overheat warning at high rpm. all this water flowing cools the exhaust prior to exiting the lower unit.
Definitely change the water impeller. I found that Super Lube silicone grease works best. I ran an entire season then pulled the pump and it was still coated in the grease. It's available everywhere even harbor freight carries it.
Mustie1, I think you messing with the oil tank and hoses made it finally pump to the upper reservoir. Gotta love those Merc’s! They were great 60 years ago when I was a kid working on a lake dock pumping gas etc.. if they weren’t Merc’s they were Johnson or Evinrude’s. Great memories. Oh and the girls in their bathing suits was why I worked there ALLLL summer..... haha.
I would definitely double check that wiring "fix" on the engine that the rats chewed. And Watch Wes Work would flip out at those quick snap wiring connectors near the battery. Put in your drain plug, fill the back with water and make 100% sure the bilge works.
I have never trusted automatic oilers. They have a mind of their own and will leave you stranded. Change the impeller and keep a spare handy! Might want to drain and fill the lower unit lube.
I replace the impeller and gear oil every two years, I have almost the same exact motor, mine is a 1985 150 Mariner, and I did away with the oil injection the day I bought it from a friend that let it set 8-10 years. Still runs great.
@@robertallen938 good plan, oil injection loves to go anti-oil-self-destruction and you'll never know it until it's way too late with seized engine. **note: you'll likely have to re-jet the carburetors when going from oil injection to mix.
I had an early 90s Johnson with a VRO oil pump. I went thru 3 power heads while it was under warranty. Once the warranty expired, I disconnected that SOB and mixed the fuel myself.
@@erniebateman9665 are you sure about that? I've never seen an outboard motor with a primer and Ive dealt with quite a few of them. Everyone I've ever seen had a choke
I just found that out this year, 4 years in, prev owner never told me that it was a momentary switch my instructions from him just said push it when starting, always wondered why she was hard to start when cold, hold her down when cranking and she fires up beautifully.
Dear Wayne R. 👍👌👏 You are absolutely right, Sir. Nonetheless: I highly recommend sikaflex brand. That's at least the stuff that most professional boat builders use. Best regards, luck and health.
If the manufacturer had used 5200, he’d have had to drill it out. 5200 is forever. In fact 5200 is what boat manufacturers use to glue decks onto hulls of mega-yachts.
What,why not flexseal? Nah just kidding. Most of what 3m makes are good products. My dad worked for 3m in their electronics division 28 years. Great company overall, and we always loved when dad brought home products from the 3m company store.
The impeller shaft is off-center in the impeller housing so the blades of the impeller are compressed on one side and flex open on the other side. At idle, it is difficult to detect whether you will have an overheating problem at higher RPM. If the blades are set and don't flex open, that will show up as an overheat under load and not at idle. Long story short, change the impeller as suggested by many others.
I know from 40 years of experince those impeller blades are worn, feeble and clearly have taken a set. The last owner was NOT a moron. I listened to him. He clearly stated the cooling indicator flow was weak. It is supposed to look like a race horse pissing even at idle!!! Impellers are easy to change on marine diesels. And a real PITA to change on outboards. But you gotta do it!!
You are an insperation, love watching you from across the pond, many thankYou are an insperation, love watching you from across the pond, many thanks s
I'd seriously consider replacing all 3 of those drain fittings in the stern. Edit: Having finished watching, that water pump impeller looks like its dodgy. You don't want that failing on you when you're a mile or more out!
I was thinking that too. He said that white was the only one he could find after looking at several stores. He should have just ordered a couple online and changed them before he put that tank back in.
I agree! He may really want to consider replacing the other two as well. Metal (prob. aluminum) would also be the way to go. Brittle plastic carrying the fate of the S.S. Minnow! Sheesh! At least the tank isn't a real bear to get out. (When it is empty! :-))
On boats that do not have a zinc grounding system you should only use the nylon or plastic fittings. Generally on larger vessels, you would use the non metallic thru hull fittings above the water line because they are discharge lines and bronze fittings for suck lines. All fitting, both above and below the water line should always be embedded in 3M 5200. There are other brands, but the 3M 5200 has always been the best for me.
I'd replace the impeller anyway. They're considered a wear item and while yours seems to be working fine, it may not be in a condition to handle a day on the lake at high RPM.
Your videos are always mesmerizing- it’s like standing next to you in the garage as you talk through what your doing. To me no other channel manages to draw the viewer in like you do!
I love your videos. They make me feel happy just listening to you fix things as well as share specal moments in your life while wrenching. Words cannot say enough!
thats why I love your channel ... you FIX stuff instead of just running off to the store to get a replacement at the slightest sign of a problem and only buy when you absolutely have to ... thank you
if you've ever tried to pull-start one of them, you'll always install a new battery every year. keeping jumper cables to connect your trolling battery as emergency start is wise also. if a nasty storm whips up while your out on the water with dead engine, best be prepared to sink and swim for days. LOL, but not really joking
I had the exact same engine on a former boat. The first water pump you had in your hand was the correct one. I suggest you check the lower unit oil before use. There are two large slotted screws near those water intake holes. The top screw is the vent/full level and the bottom is the fill. If the gear oil looks milky it has water in it.
You should definitely change out the water pump impeller. Old impellers, especially if left sitting like this one, will fail with unfortunate results. Great video as usual.
As has been said a bunch of times, change that water pump impeller. If possible, get one of the newer versions made of silicon rubber. Not sure if they are made for that application. And always keep a second one on hand, just like a new prop, prop nut and prop wrench. Worked in a boat shop, off and on, for about a decade. Anything that had been sitting for more than a year or two got a new impeller. Simple, and relatively inexpensive insurance.
@@michaelreynolds1904 I tried to install one for my 1997 Mercury 150 but couldn't find one. Seems a company used to make an electronic retrofit for it, but I think they went out of business. I had to disconnect the oem injector due to the plastic gear failure inside the engine that turned the gear for the injector pump. I really wanted an injector, but I settled for just mixing for now.
Although my outboard is a Johnson, my VRO ( oil injection system ) was removed by a previous owner, guy I bought it from said the VRO pump died twice before.
Honestly just change the water pump if it’s been sitting that long the water pump will just disintegrate I have dealt with this on several four stroke boat motors as well as two stroke boat motors in the past
Mistie - you are surely the uncle I wish I had. I'm not sure how you picked up so much knowledge in repairs, but I'd love to learn from someone like you. Thanks for the amazing content, as always!! PS - can't wait to see you zoom around in that thing!!!
Your channel is inspiring me to try my hand at something like this. This seems so much more rewarding than just buying something newer. Really make it yours.
As suggested before I would definitely replace the impeller. Also I would add some 2-cycle oil to the gas tank just to be on the safe side, until you watch the the oil level in the tank drop. So that you're absolutely sure that the engine has lubrication. Also while you're down there at the lower unit, I would check the gear oil in the lower unit just to make sure it's not milky. last but not least I would yank the prop just to make sure it hasn't seized itself to the output shaft. And to correct it if it did.
I remember when I was a mechanic at a dealership in the early 90s the mechanic next to me bought this very boat and motor. It was awesome then and it’s awesome now! This is an amazing survivor!!
I bought a 92 deep V fishing boat that sat for 4 years in a field. I spent the last 2 weeks working on it after work and weekends. I pulled the tank & cleaned the carbs. I finally got it running last night!!!
If I'm remembering right, there are two kinds of throughulls. The Delrin (black) ones are for below the waterline (they're tougher) and the white ones are for above the waterline situations. If one of those through-hulls deteriorated from age, might it be time to replace all three?
I think he wanted to replace the two live well ones at the same time but after four stores he only found one. I wouldn't be surprised if he eventually doesn't replace the other two as well.
Most fittings now are polypropylene uv resistant plastic. What's important is using the correct sealant. Marine sealant will actually keep water out below the water line. Regular silicone like he used will fail.
@@victorbitter583 keep drain plugs that fit in them from outside or inside when broke off. crisis averted, may have to take a tiny swim to plug a hole. keep a spare plug or three for the boat drain also(may stop you/someone else from sinking), modeling clay/electrical putty works too.. also know that those low bottom transom holes will be out of water and become drains when forward underway after a certain speed, most will become fairly negative pressure and suck water out faster also!
Hey Mustie, in order to fill the engine mounted oil tank you must run the engine with the oil cap loose. That tank is not vented, so if air cannot get out, oil cannot get in. The boat oil tank has to be air tight or it cannot build pressure and will not transfer oil to the engine tank. Wait until the engine mounted tank is overflowing before tightning the cap. There should be no air in that tank.
Hey brother next time you’re trying to push a rubber line over a barb fitting put some liquid dish soap on the fitting it will greatly ease the installation and eventually dry up making it near impossible to come flying off under pressure I am a millwright and I actually have a small bottle of dish soap in my toolbox and because of it my knuckles don’t bleed nearly as much as they used to and when they do I can clean them lol!
The tell-tale won't stream until the thermostats open. Also, the low-level oil alarm should be sounding when you remove the oil tank cap. That float on the cap is the low oil sender.
We missed your video this weekend, most of your competitors take a piece of junk and see if they can get it to turn over and to run but then leave it a piece of junk. You on the other hand, find a piece of junk get it running and then turn into something that is valuable to you and your watchers, there are only a few that do that including you and that makes more sense than watching a guy that doesn't even check the oil before starting a engine that has been sitting for a long time.
I really enjoy your videos especially the ones where you are working on small equipment but most anything is good. The way you take your time and talk through it all is not only entertaining but educational as well. I have had the mechanical bug since early in life. I was always tearing things apart but had a talent for reassembling them as well so they would run. I am 65 now and retired after a 31 year long career as a heavy equipment mechanic and Supervisor for the City of Mesa in Arizona. I retired at age 50. I have drag raced most of my life until recently. I also build hot rods and rat rods and take on little projects like you trying to save neglected stuff. Most of the stuff I do get for free here is toast. The heat and dirt destroys things quickly. I want to thank you for all the advice. This week my neighbor's lawn mower quit. She was taking it to a shop. I volunteered to check it out. After cleaning the carb and adjusting the mag everything else was checked over. The culprit was a junk spark plug. Fixed it for $1.93. Thanks. .
Any outboard I touch, if it’s. Even sitting for ten years, it’s getting a new impeller. No questions asked. They get brittle and don’t work right even if they do push some water thru like this on is doing. They aren’t expensive and aren’t hard to change. And it gives you a good look at the lower unit instead of just assuming everything is cool there too. Impellers get old and brittle and even if it seems to be working at first, it’s probably not pumping as much water as it should because it’s not dealing against the housing and it’ll probably seem ok long enough to get you comfortable with it then it’ll break a couple fins off and finally quit working altogether and if you’re like half the guys out there that buy an old boat like that, ya probably aren’t all that used to boats and outboards and forget to pay attention to the stream and end up not noticing when the damn thing does eat itself up and you end up running the motor with no water running thru it, you overheat it and then you wonder why it started running like shit and smoking like hell after last weekend... because you overheated the hell out if it and have a blown head gasket now...or a cracked head... That’s a really damn long way of saying jus5 change the fukn impeller. If you don’t know how to, you need to learn anyway.
The gas in the tank most assuredly had oil in it. I suspect the auto oiler had failed and he was premixing and forgot to tell you. That broken oil line you found could have been the problem. Make sure the oiler works or just forget it and pre mix.
100% change that water pump. It would be a shame to loose that motor to overheat over an impeller. Be sure to check/change the gear oil. That float on top of the oil tank I believe is for the low oil alarm. The fact it’s down and not screaming tells me it’s not working. I’m not sure if it has any bearing on the oil filling. Those old black Max’s really scream and have a nice howl to em. Nice score!
Great video! I owned one of these brand new in 1988. 1800 FS model. 150 HP was an upgrade. 115 was the standard equipment. The boat was destroyed in a BASS event on lake Erie in 1999.
Mustie1, Please replace the water pump, that's a must. Also, in order for the choke to work you must push it in and turn key together in order for it to work. As for the throughhull, I would replace the other two as mentioned below, use marine 4200. When you turn on the master panel switch, you don't always need the bilge on it will come on with the auto float switch, you don't want to burn it out. Other than that, take her out and test drive her. She seems to be in good shape. Oh, one other thing, replace all the fuel lines and after that run only Rec fuel. Do not run any ethanol fuel as those 2 strokes don't fair well for long periods of time with it. You will also want to change the fuel/water separator at some point. Can't wait for the next video.
I love watching everything you work on, I've done all kinds of small engines except bigger boat motors even tho I've owned two boats in my lifetime, nothing big tho and never had problems with the ones I've had which was 35hp Johnson motors made in the 60s
That boat sure looks to be in good condition. Nice job fixing the steering and getting the engine to run. I would think that thing will go like a rocket with that engine. Looking forward to going for a ride (on smooth water!). Thanks for the tutorial.
Funny story about through hull fittings and bilge pumps. So I had a bunch of people down to the marina and had planned to go out but a storm was moving in. Threw up the camper canvas at the back before it started pouring and as we were sitting there having a beer I heard the bilge pump go on (as it normally does when it's raining). It is a biggie, something like 1000 gph....and it cycled off....went off again, and kept running. Wait, what? Got everyone off the rear deck....ooopsy, the through hull fitting had broken and it was just cycling the water around the bilge. Luckily I have two, just shut off that one and let the other take over. Learning lesson: the torque of the pump was so high that every time it went on, it jolted the hose and stressed the fitting. Next ones I bought were labelled as "unbreakable" FRP nylon as opposed to plastic.
My grandfather rigged his outboard to use car plugs...ran well, but if you went to reverse or slow ahead, it would stall every time. You had to go to about half forward then to the lower or reverse power. I miss that boat, but whoever bought it had an adventure on their hands with all the improvisation that motor experienced.
i think i would defiantly change that water pump impeller..last thing u need is for it to fail in the middle of the lake .. and u know thats exactly where it will fail..lol great vid!!
Hey. all the float is for is a warning system,supposed to be a horn when the float is down. The tank will only stay at the level it is when you install the cap because it will be air bound and maintain that level. You should check that warning horn as it should have come on with the oil cap off.
You found the boat I have been looking for and its it really good shape. Glad to see you got it. I hope you enjoy it. Every on o find like it is ruined. I have a 18 ft and a 16 ft bass tracker, both aluminum but I want one just like what you got too. Happy boating my friend.
8:45 note to all contact lens wearers: wear gloves when you handle silicone. If you get some on your fingers and even if you wash your hands thoroughly it leaves a residue that can damage your eyes. I found this out the hard way and when I visited the eye dr he told me about this issue. ALWAYS wear gloves!
It's scary to think how much oil goes into the environment from just one of these boats. Say nothing of the contradiction when it comes to fishing.! Thumbs Up Mustie.!
there is very very very little to no oil that go into the environment on a good running boat the oil is designed to burn if you look there is no oil slick in the water at all
@@steveholland1163 there's no oil in the water because the exhaust isn't going into the bucket......the only thing in the bucket is water circulating through the engine. EVERY two stroke leaves a film of oil behind it as the oil isn't completely burned up in combustion because if it did, there wouldn't be any film on the cylinder walls for lubrication... I really do think you should learn a thing or two about outboards before making any more ludicrous comments.
@@muskokamike127 considering just rebuilt a 200 hp hpdi i think i know just a little about two strokes and yes two stroke oil is designed to burn and the exhaust comes out of the bottom of the prop so yes its going into the water
Yep, I would take the hubs off and repack the wheel bearings and replace the wheel bearing and associated seals as necessary. Also install some buddy bearings to easily keep them greased. Also taking off the wheels and clean and lubricate the lug nut threads to make sure they work when you need to service a tire.
Nice little series. Suggestion: If one thru hull fitting is brittle and bust, all will be brittle and about to bust. You should have replaced all 3 with the tank out. It´s just a matter of time and luck before the next goes. Since this is about the biggest single point of failure on this boat, it really needs to be done. So get 3 new black fittings, and when installing do not use silicone. It only lasts for a season or two before drying out. You should use a bedding compound like Sikaflex, for a job like this.
Mustie1 a RU-vid channel " SmarterEveryDay" just put out an episode "How does a carburetor work" which puts all of the details you have described over the years with cleaning carbs into live video. It's amazing to see "how" a carb works.
I have learned so much in the short time I've been watching you! It's a wonderful break from writing and editing. Your mannerisms are funny and entertaining.
I would change the water impeller and all the fuel line and bulb. The line in the line will break down with ethanol gas and fill your carbs with trash. I would also premix in the tank and bypass the oil injection system. If that injection system fails you probably won't know until the power head is trash.
