Installing the inner and outer bearing races in a Nissan Hardbody(D21) hub. Like us on Facebook! / bluehandsvideo Check out our products! www.bluehandsinc.com Behind-the-scenes look at what we do! www.bluehandsvideo.com
Not on the outside of the outer race. If the bearing seizes, you don't want the outer race to spin, it will ruin the hub. Install the outer races dry, then put some grease in the hub and pack the bearings. Once installed, it's okay to put grease on the inside surface of the race where the rollers are going to contact anyway. I've also got a vid up of packing the bearings Thanks for the question! :)
Thanks for the video. Exactly what I was looking for since my repair manual simply says to go to a machine shop to have the races removed and installed.
Thanks for providing the video! I have a couple of suggestions if you don't mind. Just things I picked up over the years. If you put that race in the freezer and/or warm up that hub with a heat gun, the race will install much easier without having a chance to gall the bore while driving it in. Also, if you use a big flat driver disc bigger than the race you are installing, it helps to get it started. Then, you can take a few thousandths off the old outer race on your sander, put the large disc on top of it with a driver handle on it and use this as your race driver. Always the perfect fit and no need to buy a lot of extra tools to clutter up your already overcrowded toolbox. Not to criticize, just a comment and once again, thank you for taking the time to post this great little video!
I don't mind suggestions at all. Great tips! There's a lot of different ways to do this. This may just be the ticket for someone watching/reading this. Some guys have said that freezing the races is enough for them to slip right in without any driving. Probably depends on just how fast you can get it from the freezer to the hub. If they're wrapped in aluminum foil, it will help them stay cold during transit. I've never personally tried the freezer tip....maybe I should! :) I used to do this quite often, so the tool was well worth the investment. For guys only doing a couple of these, I hope they read your tips and give them a try! I've got a handful of hubs to rebuild.....I just might do a vid using some of these techniques when I'm working on them. Thanks for taking the time to comment and share your tips!! Certainly not taken as any kind of criticism. I'm glad you liked the vid. :)
If you need something faster than the freezer, you can use a can of "Dust Off"....compressed air for blowing off things like keyboards and such......turn it upside down and it will spray super cold. You can chill the race down pretty quickly that way. :) Thanks!!
Another way, as mentioned, for us cheap skates, is to take the old race and grind the outer rim down using a bench grinder so it will slide into the hub freely and after pounding the new race flush with a large plastic hammer, line up the old race on top of it and pound with the plastic hammer until it is slightly down in the hub. (Usually only takes a couple hits.) Then get the old bearing, set it into the old race and either press it in using a hydraulic press, or making sure the hub is on a solid surface, pound it in using a wood or metal dowel (piece of a wood shovel handle or similar) about the diameter of the bearing and pound it home with a large hammer. I have been using this method for years.
That's definitely another way to do it. I have used that method before. When I was working on a lot of cars for other people, I bought this tool so that I wouldn't have to grind a different race every time. It wasn't near as cheap, but it was a good bit more convenient. lol Thanks for adding this option for other reading the comments. It's a great description of a very good option!! :)
I picked up a seal driver set at Northern Tool. I had no idea the nut fastened the driver on. SMH! I have been hammering for what feels like hours. Thanks for the video! Subscribed.
Thanks for the video! Different hub, but same process. After replacing ball joints, tie rod ends and reseating the wheel bearings in the last couple of weeks, the alignment shop told me I still had issues; this time with the upper control arm bushings and wheel bearings with end play. I've repacked my wheel bearings several times and I've even rebuilt my suspension back in 2012, but never thought to replace the bearing races. Guess I'm just a dumb girl, lol! I'm sure this is why I have so much bearing end play in my 12 year old Xterra; it's just worn out even if I can't see the flaws. Time for new bearings, races, bushings and wine coolers. You're awesome.
Thanks! ;) She's 4wd. Every few years or so I experience a myriad of suspension and steering issues. Consequences of wheeling. I'm really hoping that replacing all these parts will improve the ride again. The shimmy at 50mph is pretty bad.
Thanks for the video. It should be noted that the race needs to be in the correct orientation before installation. The taper needs to be facing outward to accept the bearing.
cjmmjc....... Great question! They will get back to temp pretty quickly. The hub will soak up the cold just like it would heat. By the time it's expanded into place and you can't move it, it's not really going to get any bigger. Just wait until the race won't move, then start assembling. I'm sure it will be back to room temp by the time you can get the hub on the spindle.
If you don't have the tool use the old races when you hit the new ones in. If you're worried about the old ones getting jammed in the hub, put a cut in them with a thin grinding disk so they will come back out easy.
I've used sockets in the past, when I didn't have the tool....but I've never tried the freezer method. I've heard about it for years and it's a great method, I've just never had the forethought to put them in there. lol :)
If you put them (the race) in the freezer and they contract, do you have to wait for them to go back to room temp before you put a new bearing in a contracted race. Seems to me like that would throw off the tightening of the spindle nut
The sheer size of the hub sucks up any cold or heat you put into that race so no waiting is required. Any temperature difference goes away very quickly. Time is of the essence. You have to be quick!
Yep.....and sometimes it sucks it out so fast they don't get fully seated and you have to drive them in the rest of the way anyway. It's a great method, but I don't typically use it. Thanks for answering this! :) Mike
Thanks. :) I've used brass before....had comments telling me not to use it because it leaves metal behind that can end up in the bearing. I guess maybe the takeaway is to use brass when removing the race and not when installing. The freezer is a great idea and brought up fairly often in the comments. I never have the forethought to put it in the night before, nor the patience to wait for it the same day. In all my years, I've never actually tried it. Maybe when I'm a bit more caught up, I'll do a video on how it works. :) -Mike
@@bluehandsvideo I have used a punch before you just have to make sure you get what other chips are in the race area out before you put the bearing in it's not good to go metal on metal brass is a softer metal but snap-on does sell a tool for knocking out the races but I have that as well but when it's 2:00 in the morning and you're not going races and a hub on a trailer at a truck stop cuz you're changing a wheel seal you got to do what you got to do
I always use a big socket to drive them in...put the race in the freezer for about ten minutes and about 4 to 5 hits and its seated...but thats just my way of doing it.
Once I take the old race out and if I make a single cut on it so it does not bind i could theoretically use it to drive in the new race and thusly avoid the expense on something rarely used by the average joe.
Hmmm.....great idea! I'm not sure the average joe would have the abrasive cutoff wheel to cut the bearing race, but that would work nicely. I bought mine along time ago when I was doing a lot of car work. It was under $20. Now they're about $35-40, but I did see one place online that had 4 left for $22. You're right....not really worth it for one or two bearings, but still a nice, quick, easy way to install them. Thanks!
Insain Toyota To add to that.....I have a friend that saves his warn out 14" abrasive cut off wheels.....he mounts them to his bench grinder so that he'll have a very narrow grinding wheel. With that setup, you could easily use it to cut the bearing race(or other small items). I agree about the hammer and damage......so use light hits and walk it in slowly if you don't have a press. A bigger bench vise might work as a press in a pinch.Thanks!
You got it Edgar! That tool you just made is actually better than the ones you buy. I had a whole box full of stuff like that. The "suits" would come around and try to tell me to get rid of all the "junk" I had. It was difficult to try to convince them that this "junk" was worth it's weight in gold and that it was actually making them money. OK, don't get me going....
I bought a tool set like this, and none of them fit my outer race. I need a little bigger than 67mm but my kit goes from 65 to 72. And using the 65, i gouged my hub surface. Im not a happy camper and no idea what to do
If the 65 was smaller than the race, how did it gouge the hub? Do you have a cone that it a bit too big for the race? I wonder if you could put a bolt through the center and then spin it in a drill....a drill press would be better.....lathe better still. Then maybe use a file to decrease the diameter down to what will work...?? What's the bearing number you're trying to install? You should be able to use some emery cloth to carefully sand down any "rise" in the surface around the gouge. It's hard to come up with ideas for you without having anything to look at. If you take a short video showing the issue, you can post it to your channel, then come back here and leave a link. -Mike
Absolutely! That would work just fine, but finding a washer would be the challenge. You'd probably want to stack a couple of them together for strength. There are several ways to do it without buying the Bearing Seal & Race Driver kit, but the kit will do a wide range of sizes and it's all in one neat package. I'd probably make a set on the lathe before I did the washer.....but that's only because I like using the lathe :) Thanks!
The washer and nut thing will work as long as you get things together quickly. All the time it takes to do the stuff lets the cold get sucked up and the part goes back to it's larger size. It also helps to rap on it when you feel things getting tight. This vibration will allow the parts to straighten out. I taught at a trade school for over 31 years and we found out ways to do things that weren't really in the books but in many cases, worked much better. You never can learn it all but if you keep yourself open to new ways of doing things, you can learn a lot. This is a great posting. Lots of good creative-thinking ideas!
Yes. It's called a tapered roller bearing. this shows a good drawing of one.... www.researchgate.net/figure/Cylindrical-roller-bearings-a-and-tapered-roller-bearings-b_fig1_346963592
I'm happy to hear that!! Did you also find the one on how to pack grease in the new bearings? Was it throwing the caps because the bearings were getting too hot?
the way cheaper solution would be to take the old bearing race and grind away enough of the outer diameter so that it will fit in the hub - same working principle afterwards.
That's certainly true in most cases.....at least in my experience. Anytime I've taken a vehicle to a shop to do the work, it's always come back wrong. When I would take on something I hadn't done before, I figured, I can do it wrong the first time, too!. lol I'd buy the manuals and tools and just do it myself, because what I couldn't afford was to pay someone else to do it wrong. :( Thanks for watching!! Mike
